Teaser pic of the D133!!
09-13-13, 11:45 AM
#3
Thx! I almost just wanna put it up a display piece.
Gordon same engine. The engine and car has always been bare during the experimenting process. Now that the build is complete, I pulled the whole car down a couple weeks ago to do a complete refinish. I'm getting ready to paint some body parts this weekend and the chassis after I get off work the middle of next week. Everything should be complete by the 1st weeks of October. More teaser pics to come!
09-14-13, 05:45 PM
#6
Good ole west Texas dirt. Should look much better very soon.
Here's my custom large sump oil pan I built. It has 1/2 plate to help solidify the block (prevent torque twist of the block). It even has the factory style low oil level attatchment added inside. The total oil capacity is around 12 quarts when you add my twin 25 row oil coolers. Oil changes are gonna be expensive but at least my oil temps are gonna be nice and cool.
Here's my custom large sump oil pan I built. It has 1/2 plate to help solidify the block (prevent torque twist of the block). It even has the factory style low oil level attatchment added inside. The total oil capacity is around 12 quarts when you add my twin 25 row oil coolers. Oil changes are gonna be expensive but at least my oil temps are gonna be nice and cool.
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09-15-13, 04:50 PM
#9
^ Lol patience my friend! This project is actually 6 years in the making. I didn't wanna start one of those long and drawn out build threads not knowing when it would get completed. Now that all the fab and testing is 99% done, I can focus on the refinishing part. The end result of this project is gonna come sonner than later.
09-16-13, 12:36 PM
#11
Ok since my 20b is NA, I decided to build an exhaust that was both quiet/drone free but also had the ability to open up to free flow at higher rpms. This was easier said than done because it took me 3 build versions to finally get it right. My mid section uses a butterfly valve and vacuum actuator to control the opening of it. It also has a magnaflow cat to clean the emissions under light loads and low rpm.
This 1st version was built back in Dec 2008 when I orginally started my exhaust build part of my project. Due to the experimental nature of the design, I just used whatever piping I had laying around my shop to save money. 4" valve was a cheap used piece of crap I got off ebay. I also reused the large vacuum actuator from the fd's twin turbo setup for the valve. When my engine 1st fired up in Nov 2009, it was immediately apparent that the valve wasn't gonna hold up as it warped within a few minuets. It wasn't until fall 2010 that I was actually test driving the car to test the exhaust. It never worked correctly. All in all, I pulled this thing out from under the car maybe 8 times to fix the valve.
It took some time to figure out was wrong with version 1. I knew I needed a better valve (which I found at raceready performance). I also wanted to move the valve furthure down stream so it would get less direct heat. I also wanted to make the exhaust even more quiet so I reused the factory cat and found a used silencer. Here's hack job #2 and a video. You can here the exhaust open around the 43sec mark.
Version 2 worked flawlessly. No drone, the valve opened consistantly to a more noticable deeper tone. The only problem was the overal size and weight. Plus the large fd vacuum actuator was causing me major fitment/location problems. Vers 3 is a lighter evolution to what was working great with vers 2. I hacked up vers 1 to use the magnaflow again. I even experimented with a small vacuum actuator and spring return to make sure the valve fully closed. Now since I eliminated the silencer, I needed to make sure the hiflow cat wouldn't drone while cruising. I ended up buying a Dynomax VT muffler. This muffler has a spring loaded valve inside to elininate drone and opens automatically based on exhaust flow. The total result of it all is a perfect combination of quiet/drone free cruising and power.
This 1st version was built back in Dec 2008 when I orginally started my exhaust build part of my project. Due to the experimental nature of the design, I just used whatever piping I had laying around my shop to save money. 4" valve was a cheap used piece of crap I got off ebay. I also reused the large vacuum actuator from the fd's twin turbo setup for the valve. When my engine 1st fired up in Nov 2009, it was immediately apparent that the valve wasn't gonna hold up as it warped within a few minuets. It wasn't until fall 2010 that I was actually test driving the car to test the exhaust. It never worked correctly. All in all, I pulled this thing out from under the car maybe 8 times to fix the valve.
It took some time to figure out was wrong with version 1. I knew I needed a better valve (which I found at raceready performance). I also wanted to move the valve furthure down stream so it would get less direct heat. I also wanted to make the exhaust even more quiet so I reused the factory cat and found a used silencer. Here's hack job #2 and a video. You can here the exhaust open around the 43sec mark.
Version 2 worked flawlessly. No drone, the valve opened consistantly to a more noticable deeper tone. The only problem was the overal size and weight. Plus the large fd vacuum actuator was causing me major fitment/location problems. Vers 3 is a lighter evolution to what was working great with vers 2. I hacked up vers 1 to use the magnaflow again. I even experimented with a small vacuum actuator and spring return to make sure the valve fully closed. Now since I eliminated the silencer, I needed to make sure the hiflow cat wouldn't drone while cruising. I ended up buying a Dynomax VT muffler. This muffler has a spring loaded valve inside to elininate drone and opens automatically based on exhaust flow. The total result of it all is a perfect combination of quiet/drone free cruising and power.
09-18-13, 10:38 AM
#14
Oops didn't realize the video wasn't working.
T-von NA 20b Tanabe Racing Medalion Muffler Audio - YouTube
T-von NA 20b Tanabe Racing Medalion Muffler Audio - YouTube
I know this isn't engine related but I just had to show it off.
My fd officially has a new name.
Attachment 510363
My fd officially has a new name.
Attachment 510363
09-18-13, 03:47 PM
#15
Lol tell your wife that these plates don't always have to reference the driver.
Your car deserves a name of it's own. I like "evil 20b" you should use it. A few years back I tried to get "Badd MF" but the state said no. Gordon, I finally started priming body parts today. If all goes well car should be completely painted by early next week.
09-18-13, 06:07 PM
#17
^^^
Some of my favorites that I keep in a .doc file as I think of them include:
RRRFD3S (good one for you guys)
IR1RU12 (if you happen to own an R1)
BLUBYU (obvious)
Y55MPH (again...)
BRN2RUN (Springsteen fan??)
FND FD (F'n decent FD)
FLASHPT (temp at which fuel ignites)
Some of my favorites that I keep in a .doc file as I think of them include:
RRRFD3S (good one for you guys)
IR1RU12 (if you happen to own an R1)
BLUBYU (obvious)
Y55MPH (again...)
BRN2RUN (Springsteen fan??)
FND FD (F'n decent FD)
FLASHPT (temp at which fuel ignites)
09-18-13, 07:03 PM
#18
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finally a build thread! sweet
09-27-13, 07:48 AM
#20
So, Trey... let me get this right. You've engineered and built your own 3 rotor NA, now taken the car apart and are painting it yourself? Then, reassembly, drive to SEMA, then SS from Texas all in the next month or so? Sheez.... making me feel like a slacker!!
Looking good! Love the wrinkle finish on the rotor housings BTW!
Looking good! Love the wrinkle finish on the rotor housings BTW!
09-27-13, 09:29 AM
#22
So, Trey... let me get this right. You've engineered and built your own 3 rotor NA, now taken the car apart and are painting it yourself? Then, reassembly, drive to SEMA, then SS from Texas all in the next month or so? Sheez.... making me feel like a slacker!!
Looking good! Love the wrinkle finish on the rotor housings BTW!
Looking good! Love the wrinkle finish on the rotor housings BTW!
Thx Tim that's the plan. I'm pretty confident of what I've built and driving it is the only to prove reliability of the design. Doing everything myself is the only way I can afford to do a project of this magnitude. Plus it was the only way to keep what I was doing a complete secret. If I didn't know how to do something, I had to research and teach myself. I don't think there's anyone in the world that's gonna have an intake system that operates like the one I built or a full PP that has this kind of drivability. The whole idea is to take advantage of the engines greatest assets and roll them all into one system that works seamless. I'm just now making the time to finally finish it. If it wasn't for my coil issue and me refocusing attention my own home remodel the last year 1/2, you would have seen a finished product a couple years ago.
David, thx the for the complement. I wish I was a machine so I wouldn't be exhausted. With the house and this car, these last 2 years have been stressful. I can't wait to get my life back when it's all finished.
09-29-13, 11:36 AM
#24
The wrinkle finishing is starting to get addictive.
Rebuilt 20b water pump with fd accessories. It took a little bit of moding to make that work.
Also gonna spend the rest of the day getting the intake ready and color sanding the car.
Rebuilt 20b water pump with fd accessories. It took a little bit of moding to make that work.
Also gonna spend the rest of the day getting the intake ready and color sanding the car.