I followed BlueTIIs recommendation. He said to use OEM in all the multi-axis points. I used mandacomp in the toe links as well. After riding in a car will all OEM. I like what I did better. I also have ohlins coilovers.

 

Something... .something... about great minds. Very similar conclusion.

I had some similar considerations while contemplating which bushings to use, though I have to admit I was deficient in considering mixing bushing types. Won't do that next when I do the rears, thought that's a whole different kettle of fish altogether.

 

If you are ever in the Huntsville, Al area let me know. You can drive my car.

 

After much gnashing of teeth between my first twin plate, the Exedy Hyper Compe-R or the OS Giken R2CD clutch, I did what any self-respecting "race-life" poser denies ever doing... I chose based on color:




Thanks to @R-R-Rx7 for the initial point!

 

It is by far the best clutch i have ever used. A real joy to use and it holds!!
enjoy it my friend. Glad to help!

 

ClutchLife cont'd...

First and foremost, thanks to @R-R-Rx7 for the excellent recommendation. A cornerstone of our community is the always generous help available from exceptionally knowledgeable members like Costos. You rock sir!

Also, thanks to @AJatx for the very helpful OS Giken twin plate and adapter install thread. While it was a different OS Giken clutch, the information on the OS Giken "Push Pull Movement Conversion Kit" install was very helpful.

A couple of notes from my install not covered anywhere else (that I could find):

• RX-7 FD3S Clutch Movement Alteration Kit Installation Guide
  • Comes with a spring that replaces the stock slave cylinder. While OS Giken says it's required, and I did change it out, the spring rate and length seemed identical to the stock spring.
  • The included M8 hex socket bolts that fasten the release fork base to the bellhousing were the wrong pitch. It comes with M8x1.0 bolts, and my bellhousing required M8x1.25 (the standard pitch). Thankfully, I have a mini-Ace Hardware in my garage.
    
  • The kit has removed the spring from the release fork. AJatx thread has the older version.
    
    
    
    
  • The Slave/release Cylinder Adapter plate make installing the slave cylinder a much tighter ordeal. Here it is with the waiting from some of that slave cylinder lovin'...
    
    
• Clutch/Flywheel assembly
  • The R2CD weighs 31.2. The ACT Xtreme PP, sprung 6-puck, 9.5lb SR Motorsports flywheel weighs 25.5
    
    OS Giken R2CD assembly weighs 31.2
    
    [img alt="ACT Xtreme w. sprung 6-puck and SR Motorsports flywheel
    "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7club.com-vbulletin/2000x1980/act_xtreme_pressure_plate_and_6_puck_sprung_disc_w _sr_motorsports_9_5_ln_flywheel_weight_25_5_lbs_8a f819c49e31e4a192500739f0e6a1b43a01269f.jpg[/img]
    ACT Xtreme w. sprung 6-puck and SR Motorsports flywheel
    
  • The assembly is straightforward onto the Mazda counterweight... like all other aftermarket clutches:
    
    R2CD flywheel (w. Mazda flywheel brake installed ust for tightening all of the counter weight bolts)
    
    
    R2CD sprung center, clutch and floater disks
    
    R2CD pressure plate and cover
    

Driving Impression: I'm thrilled! I've only driven about 50 miles on it, but I immediately realized why Costos highly recommends it. Right out of the garage, it was apparent. The pedal was slightly lighter, and the engagement was MUCH less "grabby" and more linear. The ACT setup tested the finesse of my left leg when the clutch was cold. While I've been driving the ACT Xtreme w. the sprung 6-puck for decades, and I have no memory left of what the stock FD clutch feels like. However, I'm imagining I'm at least 50% closer to that stock clutch than with the old setup. I didn't have any of the stopped-pointing-uphill-at-a-stoplight-with-a-soccer-mom-on-my-rear-bumper buttcheeks pucking that the old setup would require obnoxious revving to rollout with confidence.

I've only just begun the 'break-in'. No launches of any kind yet, but I did have a couple of e65 mid-boost (~500rw) squirts at speed without any drama. Given Costos' experience with his beast and Giken's 880 lb-ft torque rating, I'm sure its clamping capacity will be overkill.

Also, I didn't notice the few extra lbs that the assembly weights during throttle blips. It's materially insignificant to the engine's output and/or the rotational moments offset the overall weight.

 

I am very happy to hear that you like it.
Thank you for your kind words my friend and I’m glad that it worked out.
you will not be disappointed in the long run either.

I wish I could keep it with my new transmission

i am always happy to share knowledge and experiences. this is why we are here

 

Awesome! I'm looking to get a new set of bushings as well.

Is there a physical listing of the recommended part numbers nowadays for a refresh?

 

I made this spreadsheet up a few years ago, based on another spreadsheet I had found on here. I can't seem to find that original at the moment, so here is a screen shot of mine. I actually think a few of those part numbers are wrong, so hopefully someone can help to fix them. I think some of my "front" numbers are actually "rears" and visa versa.

Ignore the prices, as this was a couple years ago, so I'm sure they have changed. For reference, back then, I found that Mazdatrix had the best prices for everything (compared to MazdaComp, Atkins, and Ray Crowe).

 

for future reference, Mazda Part No N317-16-210D is the bellhousing from the Mazda RX8 5-spd, which will provide a direct push-clutch conversion on an FD3 5-spd transmission.

Amayama has it listed at 42,050 yen, which is about $275 at the current exchange rate, plus shipping etc.. The 5-spd RX8 was never offered in the NADM. Mazda Motorsports was selling the bellhousing as a racing part for this reason. Which the general public can buy racing parts direct from them without being a Motorsports racing member. Been a year or two since I last checked if they still sell it or not though.
.

 

Thanks for the reference. Might have done that instead of the OS Giken changeover kit.

I did search Mazda Motorsports (stock and comp inventory) and that part number is not available. Perhaps a call might yield better results.

 

The standard search function for Mazda Motorsports is pretty abysmal - pro tip: click the 'quick order' icon (the stopwatch next to the cart) and search for the part number there. At least you'll find that it's a viable part number, however you'll also notice that there are none in the US under PDC Parts Availability during checkout.

 

While replacing the clutch, the "project creep imp" murmured its seductive little whispers:
.

• MazdaComp / Mazdaspeed bushing. I ordered these (along with the MazdaComp suspension bushings) as preventative maintenance.
  
  .
  With the driveshaft, PPF, and exhaust removed for the clutch replacement, access to the four top mounting bolts was easy with a swivel-head 1/2 ratchet. I was locked and loaded for the usual struggle to remove blind fasteners. Thankfully, this was not the case at all. The front of the diff was plenty tilted downward to access the bolt from the front. Forgive the lack of process pictures.
  .
  • The stock ones were undamaged
    
    .
  • The bushings are indistinguishable from stock. They have the same orientation. A rubber tab on the inner part of the rubber seal is aligns with the matching indent and the "up" mark on the rubber isolator. All of that is installed oriented with the alignment mark in the casting.
    
    
  • IMPRESSION. I didn't notice anything different. Maybe because the stock ones were undamaged. Maybe because my car has a stripped interior and I'm numb to NVH. I am, however, happy with the preventative piece of mind. That's always a "W".
    .
• Sikky Differential Mount. With the bushings in and the mount reinstalled and the PPF relegated to the parts bin, onward to the Sikky. Thanks to a very nicely designed and constructed, it was a relatively easy install. Sikky has some excellent installation videos on the site. Also, save a few lbs and removed a common failure point in the PPF.
  .
  
  Sikky Differential Mount from the front
  .
  
  Sikky Differential Mount from the rear
  .
• Button everything up and install the exhaust ... and yeah. Custom hates custom. The Sikky contacts the 4" HKS exhaust. Works great with a 3.5" exhaust, but not mine. Yeaaaaa! More custom to the custom-custom annoyance.
  
  Sikky diff mount and HKS exhaust contact (with temporary protective exhaust wrap)
  
  So I drop by my go-to local shop, Alamo Autosports. Brice right away has the solution: a couple of 4"round to square 304 transitions. Vibrant and my local Summit to the rescue.
  
  Brice fabed it up over a weekend, and the newest custom-custom is complete. I got a hair over 1/4" of clearance, and he added an extra hanger that had been missing to help further stabilize the exhaust relative to the differential. Admittedly, the welds are not as beautiful as the laser welds on the rest of the HKS exhaust, and the square cross-section is about 4% smaller than the round ends. But I'm fine with the weld functionality and the exhaust cross-section, I think, is immaterial to performance. Call this another "W" if a harder-earned one.
  
  Exhaust round to square transition side-view
  .
  Exhaust round to square transition bottom-view

 

So when are we going to get driving videos of this beast?

 

Yes! we need some videos !!!
Nice update! So much great work going on!
Hope to see it and talk rotaries again with you this coming DGRR 2026


Steve

 

Unfortunantely no video, just a snapshot from last Fall. I did a track weekend at Eagle's Canyon Raceway with Driver's Edge.

We ran the full 2.7-mile course. It was recently repaved and had seemingly infinite runoff, a welcome safety feature to learn/re-learn on. The temp was in the low 90's both days.

It was a really good weekend. I only ran 14 psi on E80. The water and oil peaks at 205F across both days... check! Another unexpected win was that I only had about a cup of oil in the catch can over both days. I checked the morning of the second day and didn't drain it until I got back home. Check. Suspension was all at mid settings and I didn't fiddle with it. I was sore from the seat bolster after the second day. Brakes were great and frankly underused. Front PFCF01 and the last of the DS2500 in the back. The balance bar was about 8% skewed rear, and that was probably still not enough. Going to get an in-cabin adjuster for next time. Rear got replaced after the event. More on that later.

Humbled myself by leaving my numbers at home. The post-modern font of red electrical tape to the rescue.

Overall, I gave myself the grace to just relearn the basics, and it paid off: I was off track only once, and it was just two wheels. Nice to get more than my share of point-byes in the "ancient" car. Check.

 

So sick! The car looks great out there.

 

I'm jealous! sounds like a fantastic weekend! Your car looks great, I hope to have some weekends like this if I EVER get done with my FD.
I had a pristine stock FD til I lost my mind and like most men and ALL politicians, I thought I needed more power....so 2 yrs later and over 80K,
I'm entering the home stretch, I can hardly wait!!

 

Congrats on the progress and getting the car out on track! Hopefully, that becomes a regular occurrence.

 

Track day sounds like a ton of fun. A friend who has a lot of HPDE and wheel-to-wheel experience suggested that everyone should wear some sort of neck protection, he said his favorite is the Simpson Hybrid because it doesn't rely on your harness so you can bring it with you if you are riding or instructing in other cars.

What are you doing for crankcase ventilation and catch-can setup? Do you have additional vent locations besides the filler neck? It seems like there are more options lately with the Turblown oil filler neck and oil pan.

 

I do agree with the Simpson hybrid Hans especially if you are going to be jumping between cars.

I have been using the Hybrid S for a few years and I am happy with it and i do jump between cars, whether i drive them or i go as a passenger. i had used a go-kart Donut brace before my cervical surgery as it was unbearable to drive at the track and it made things a little better. you dont realize how easy it is to cause an irreversible damage. believe me i know

 

"What are you doing for crankcase ventilation and catch-can setup? Do you have additional vent locations besides the filler neck?"

this is an important mod for anyone getting their FD ontrack...

Mazda thoughtfully provided an easy solution. premise is the motor needs a breather on both sides. if you go around a left hand corner the oil sloshes over to the right and covers the breather connected to the oil filler tube. no breather, not good.

by using the oil drain hole in the rear iron you now have continuous oil sump breathing. remove the flange that you have covering the port, slap a 90 degree barbed flange on it, run it up the side of your engine to your breather. mine is where the cruise control module was so my breather crosses over the top of my motor block.


FWIW, there hasn't been a drop of oil in my breather in 13 years. proper venting is a help. i am not happy w the blue and red colors on the fittings as i have been in a black mode for quite a while but the lines have been happy for more than a decade so a color change is way down the to do list.
.

 

@scotty305 Nothing special for crankcase venting... though admittedly all of the conventional solutions: big Radium catch can, -10 lines and vent-to-atmosphere outlet, and a baffled oil filler neck. I suspect the all-new oil control rings/springs/seals may also help, but that's speculative. That said, I do like Howard's idea to run a second vent line off the rear housing... it's added to the projects list.

 

(Many thanks to RX7 legend Brad Barber)

Not one, but two, albino rotary unicorns: Facebook - Rotary Showcase

 

Hey Carlos, glad to see you've been able to keep progressing on your car! I texted you a while back but hope all is well man. Looking forward to seeing yours in person again!