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KDR streetport, built and tuned back in 2005 it put down
429 WHP @ 18 psi, 399 WHP @ 14 psi and 370 WHP at 12 psi (see post #6 for graphs)
1680 cc Bosch secondaries not sure about primaries
Bosch HEC 715 coils 2x as it has the "infamous anti detonation mod" by KDR (two machined plugs in place of the trailing plugs, lol)
Greddy T78-33D, square flange externeally gated
Greddy Blow off valve
Greddy Intake elbow
Pettit air separator tank
Oil catch can
V mount setup with custom ductwork
2x MOCAL 19 row oil coolers with ductwork
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive fuel filter
FuelLab prodigy 41402 brushless pump
ATL TF195 Fuel Cell
Unobtainioum bushings except locations with spherical brgs
Unobtanioum bushings on diff
Pettit trailing arm links with heim joints
GAB Supersport coil overs with 750/550 springs
Custom diff brace
Unknown exhaust (would appreciate if anyone can tell from the pictures below)
Custom Chromoly cage
Two Sparco EVO seats
DEFI gauges
Battery Relocated to rear
Battery charging port on fuel door
Power cutoff from outside car
AP Racing brake kit with SS piston upgrade 5200 calipers
Forgeline Wheels
Hoosier A6 slicks 245's Front 275's rear
KAAZ LSD
RP Chromoly Racing Axles 300M
Bluprinted Trans
ACT Extreme pressure plate
6 puck clutch
Aluminium flywheel
Bunch of spare parts including engine also came with the car
Below Pictures of how the car sits as I bought it
Last edited by Michael Garcia; Oct 25, 2020 at 08:21 PM.
First thing I did to the car was install Ronin Speedworks seat rail as previous owner was much taller than me, I had trouble reaching the pedals with the previous custom seat mount.
My RTC V5.2 arrived yesterday so today I decided to test the compression. When I bought the car previous owner only provided compression test results from a piston engine tester that showed ~103. Before buying the car I made sure that it was able to start cold and after being warmed up so I decided to bite the bullet and get the car. So today I was very nervous about what the compression test might reveal. Took the car out for a drive) probably last of the year since winter is around the corner) to get up to operating temp. Once at operating temp I performed the compression test, making sure to test three times per housing.
Front housing corrected results from RTC V5.2 ***edit:need to re-test front housing, I am fairly certain I forgot to go WOT for this test. Not sure if that would make a difference, do you know?? There seems to be mixed opinions about this on the forum. Some say it does make you read lower if not WOT others say it doesn't.
One thing I noticed is that there was some oil/fuel residue on the front housing bolt that plugs the trailing holes (KDR anti deto mod) while the rear one was nice and clean. Any comments on this? See below pic. Rear housing left, front housing right. Blows my mind that this "mod" was sold to PO for $500 (I have the invoice) lol.
My plans for the car are keeping it mostly for track duties with a few weekend drives here and there on public roads when the weather is nice.
My list of upgrades for engine side are as follows:
Haltech Elite 2000 with WB-1 for wideband and assortment of temp and pressure sensors
Sakebomb IGN-1A Ignition System Kit
ID 1050x primaries and ID 2600x secondaries with CJ primary and secondary fuel rails (plan is to run e85)
Not sure yet on boost control
Plan on running the T78 in the meantime and hopefully be able to get ~450whp
I'm looking for any suggestions as to how to move forward given the front housing comp results are on the low end near the rebuild spec.
1st option: Get car checked/tuned if needed with current dated setup (Microtech LT-10s) and run it this way until it gives up?
2nd option: Should I upgrade the above and get the car tuned with current engine and run it until it gives up.
3rd option: Take the time over winter to get the engine rebuilt before upgrading anything else? Are there any major risks with running the engine on the low end of compression if properly tuned?
Would greatly appreciate any feedback you can provide! Thanks.
Last edited by Michael Garcia; Oct 26, 2020 at 08:40 AM.
Man that car is like a time capsule for late 90s early 00s of FD performance parts! Hope you have lots of fun with it. I’d re-check front compression with the same procedure as rear before writing it off, and spend the winter going over all of the major components like brakes, electrical, fuel, etc.
when is the last time it was on track? Any records or videos of times it ran at Watkins?
Man that car is like a time capsule for late 90s early 00s of FD performance parts! Hope you have lots of fun with it. I’d re-check front compression with the same procedure as rear before writing it off, and spend the winter going over all of the major components like brakes, electrical, fuel, etc.
when is the last time it was on track? Any records or videos of times it ran at Watkins?
Sure is a trip back to the 2000's. I did end up re-checking comp on front housing with WOT and results were a little better at 86 99 103. Haven't quite make up my mind yet on rebuild now vs later. However I already picked up most of the required tools to inspect and rebuild the engine. a friend and I split the cost of a used set of micrometers, picked up a set of Mitutoyo telescoping bore gauges for the bearings and got a sweet deal on a brand new Mitutoyo 0.01 mm dial indicator, still need a good straight edge.
Yea will be working on the car over winter. Plan is to update ECU, fuel system , ignition and wiring as well as general maintenance on brakes, suspension, diff and trans.
PO said it was probably 1-2 years since he last raced it. Unfortunately don't have any videos of it on track. This is a pic from PO on track.
Spent last few days working on refreshing the rear end. Toe Link with new bearing and bushing and fresh paint Upper Control Arm new pillow ball and new seals Old pillow ball out off upper control arm I used a ball joint press for the upper arm pillow ball Toe link all cleaned up and ready for paint Rusted Toe link Lower control arm with new pillow ***** and Mazdaspeed inner bushing Mazdaspeed lower control arm inner bushing Lower control arm all cleaned up and ready for new brgs and bushing This is what you need to do to press the inner bushing off the lower control arm
Last edited by Michael Garcia; Jan 3, 2021 at 05:20 PM.
Well is time for an update on the project. Safe to say that things escalated very quickly! I have been keeping the project instagram mostly up to date so the next few post in the thread will be straight from my IG for the car (@speednesrx7 on IG if you are interested)
Last edited by Michael Garcia; Feb 18, 2022 at 11:29 AM.
With the @rifesensors block in place I can finally start laying the wires for it. Just need some rubber spacers for vibration isolation and a coat of steel-it.
