SCCA ASP Build Moving Up the Big Leagues
05-11-12, 11:06 PM
#1
I think that was a cone..
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SCCA ASP Build Moving Up the Big Leagues
Well I will start with a little background. I am former Grand Am mechanic which worked for a Mazda race team. I specialized in suspensions. I personally have been racing for about 7 years maybe eight not sure. I started with a 2003 Mazda Protege and then moved on to a 1999 Mazda Miata 10AE which I have been running in CSP for the last 6 years. I have finally gotten the car to a point where I was happy with it, but the 4 banger just wasn't enough it was time to move on up. The build on the Miata is as follows.
1999 Mazda Miata 10th Anniversary Edition with hard top
AST 5100 Coilovers - Spring rates are 700in/lbs front 400in/lbs rear
Maxim Racing 4-2-1 Headers
FM 2.25in Mid-Pipe with resonator and high flow cat
Racing Beat Power-Pulse Cat-Back Exhaust
FIDANZA Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel
EXEDY Stock Replacement Clutch replaced at around 86k miles
Racing Beat 1.25" tubular front sway bar and frame mount point reinforcement kit
Hard Dog M2 Sport Roll Bar
OMP Drivers Seat
15x9 6uls wrapped in 225/45/15 Hankook z214 c71
The car and I have won the last 12 auto-x we have attended.
One of the last Auto-x with the Miata taking my Dad for his first ride at a race
One of the first time taking the car out six years ago
The car looking sexy after a TT at VIR. In full race trim.
Alright enough about the Miata. Three weeks ago I picked up this sexy thing. 1993 FD with 68,000 miles. Didn't know much about the car when I got it except that it looked in good condition. After looking the car over performing some compression tests and going a general check out its in great shape except for some of the more minor rubber hoses.
Here she is:
First step in the build will be to perform all the reliability modifications. I will try to post some how-to on everything I am doing and document with lots of pictures. First step, tonight, I am taking out the intake and checking all the lines to see if anything is bad. Let you guys know what I find. I will also be replacing the thermostat with an 180 degree thermostat and replace with fan switch with an 185 degree one just to bring the temps down a little bit.
Keep you guys posted.
I have some questions for the Auto-x and track drivers on the forum. I want to put a proper suspension on the car and I am thinking about AST 4100 I noticed they don't have a set of 5100 for the car or the Ohlins. What do you guys think? Or any other suggestions.
1999 Mazda Miata 10th Anniversary Edition with hard top
AST 5100 Coilovers - Spring rates are 700in/lbs front 400in/lbs rear
Maxim Racing 4-2-1 Headers
FM 2.25in Mid-Pipe with resonator and high flow cat
Racing Beat Power-Pulse Cat-Back Exhaust
FIDANZA Lightweight Aluminum Flywheel
EXEDY Stock Replacement Clutch replaced at around 86k miles
Racing Beat 1.25" tubular front sway bar and frame mount point reinforcement kit
Hard Dog M2 Sport Roll Bar
OMP Drivers Seat
15x9 6uls wrapped in 225/45/15 Hankook z214 c71
The car and I have won the last 12 auto-x we have attended.
One of the last Auto-x with the Miata taking my Dad for his first ride at a race
One of the first time taking the car out six years ago
The car looking sexy after a TT at VIR. In full race trim.
Alright enough about the Miata. Three weeks ago I picked up this sexy thing. 1993 FD with 68,000 miles. Didn't know much about the car when I got it except that it looked in good condition. After looking the car over performing some compression tests and going a general check out its in great shape except for some of the more minor rubber hoses.
Here she is:
First step in the build will be to perform all the reliability modifications. I will try to post some how-to on everything I am doing and document with lots of pictures. First step, tonight, I am taking out the intake and checking all the lines to see if anything is bad. Let you guys know what I find. I will also be replacing the thermostat with an 180 degree thermostat and replace with fan switch with an 185 degree one just to bring the temps down a little bit.
Keep you guys posted.
I have some questions for the Auto-x and track drivers on the forum. I want to put a proper suspension on the car and I am thinking about AST 4100 I noticed they don't have a set of 5100 for the car or the Ohlins. What do you guys think? Or any other suggestions.
05-11-12, 11:27 PM
#2
I think that was a cone..
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Also sorry for the long intro post. But any advice from the current auto-xers on the build would be great.
Update: Well the rubber elbow after the air check valve disintegrated when I touched it. Found a replacement silicon coupler on the charge hose. Someone had tightened it down too much and split it. Replacing that. Also the thermostat seal was shredded when I pulled the old one. Thats not good. Also I by accidentally pulled the wire out of the water temp sensor so time to get a new on of those. Pictures in the morning.
Parts List:
HOSE,AIR
Part No : N3A1-13-765
JOINT,RUBBER
Part No : N3A2-13-247
GASKET,THERMO
Part No : N350-15-173
GASKET,THERMOSTAT COVER
Part No : N3C1-15-173
SENSOR,WTR LEVEL
Part No : N3A1-15-610
GASKET
Part No : 8553-15-611
Update: Well the rubber elbow after the air check valve disintegrated when I touched it. Found a replacement silicon coupler on the charge hose. Someone had tightened it down too much and split it. Replacing that. Also the thermostat seal was shredded when I pulled the old one. Thats not good. Also I by accidentally pulled the wire out of the water temp sensor so time to get a new on of those. Pictures in the morning.
Parts List:
HOSE,AIR
Part No : N3A1-13-765
JOINT,RUBBER
Part No : N3A2-13-247
GASKET,THERMO
Part No : N350-15-173
GASKET,THERMOSTAT COVER
Part No : N3C1-15-173
SENSOR,WTR LEVEL
Part No : N3A1-15-610
GASKET
Part No : 8553-15-611
11-07-18, 11:21 PM
#4
Looks like fun. When I was involved in the Los Angeles autocross community about 10 years ago, lots of the fast cars used Penske shocks supplied by Guy Ankeny. A bit of reading through his website and facebook suggests his customers are still doing well at nationals. A.R.E. - Welcome!
11-08-18, 12:44 AM
#5
Very cool to have another ASP build to watch.
I just started my ASP build thread as well
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...1131171/page2/
As far as AST goes, they purchased Moton a while back and Moton has a 4 way motorsports coilover kit engineered for the FD that other racers have used.
I don't think Ohlins Sweden has a motorsports coilover engineered for the FD, but I could be wrong.
As mentioned Penske has a motorsports coilover kit engineered for the FD.
The above are all ~$2,000 a corner ($8,000) solutions.
For the money the $2,000 a set Ohlins Japan Road and Track (non motorsport coilovers) are pretty good, but you are going to have to get much higher spring rates than the standard 11K for wide Hoosier A7s and get them re-valved. I think you will want in the neighborhood of 16K springs. Coincidentally Guy Ankeny will also re-valve Ohlins and can probably help you on spring rates as well.
Are you going to keep the FD stock body with just rolled fenders and narrowness as your advantage or add on flares and go super wide tires with grip as your advantage? You will need to know your wheel and tire before you can shop coilovers and spring rates.
The planning is fun!
I just started my ASP build thread as well
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...1131171/page2/
Element85
I have some questions for the Auto-x and track drivers on the forum. I want to put a proper suspension on the car and I am thinking about AST 4100 I noticed they don't have a set of 5100 for the car or the Ohlins. What do you guys think? Or any other suggestions.
I have some questions for the Auto-x and track drivers on the forum. I want to put a proper suspension on the car and I am thinking about AST 4100 I noticed they don't have a set of 5100 for the car or the Ohlins. What do you guys think? Or any other suggestions.
I don't think Ohlins Sweden has a motorsports coilover engineered for the FD, but I could be wrong.
As mentioned Penske has a motorsports coilover kit engineered for the FD.
The above are all ~$2,000 a corner ($8,000) solutions.
For the money the $2,000 a set Ohlins Japan Road and Track (non motorsport coilovers) are pretty good, but you are going to have to get much higher spring rates than the standard 11K for wide Hoosier A7s and get them re-valved. I think you will want in the neighborhood of 16K springs. Coincidentally Guy Ankeny will also re-valve Ohlins and can probably help you on spring rates as well.
Are you going to keep the FD stock body with just rolled fenders and narrowness as your advantage or add on flares and go super wide tires with grip as your advantage? You will need to know your wheel and tire before you can shop coilovers and spring rates.
The planning is fun!
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