When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'll be towing it again which sucks, but this time I have a new toy to tow it in. I can't wait for the day for when I can drive it more than 10 miles without overheating. The blow by from the combustion chamber into the coolant system is pretty bad, but the engine is good enough to learn on and hopefully I can make a little more power with Daniel Kuo on the Friday before Sevenstock 25. Put on a midpipe and upping it 1 more psi to 15 psi. Last time I made 350 whp and 312 wtq on 14 psi and running the rx7.com high flow bonez cat. I hoping for at least 375 whp, maybe I loose and apex seal, but either way it has been an amazing learning experience.
01. Water Catch Can
02. Turbo Check
03. Spark Plugs
04. Window Banner
05. Apexi Exhaust Tips
01. Water Catch Can
I wanted to check the oil catch can before going to the dyno and it has water in it. No oil or gas, just water. I did not wash the engine bay and the hood is stock with no vents. All I can think of is condensation. It was literally clear water, no smell or taste of gas, just clear water. Weird??????
02. Turbo Check
I saw the oil / gas mix on the ground again when moving the car. The second turbo is leaking from the intake side. I think it's getting the oil from the primary turbo's boost pushing past the charge relief when the second turbo is not online. I spoke with Mo at Palm Tree Rotary and he has seen this when the oil control rings are failing. I took everything apart and inspected the turbo shafts and they feel identical. No front to back play and just a tiny tiny bit of side play, not enough play for the blades to hit the inside walls of the compressor inlet. I also noticed on the outlet of the primary turbo there was some oil mist. It does look like it coming from inside the engine and making it to the turbos. Car still feels great so let's go try for more power - hahahahaha.
03. Spark Plugs
I spoke with several engine builders and googled on what spark plugs to use for this dyno and I went with DK's recommendation since he will be the one tuning the car. Last time when I made 350 whp I was using the stock plugs in leading and trailing. This time I'm going colder for safety and DK recommended using Autolite Racing plugs, AR3932 for all 4. The AR3932 is equivalent to heat rang 10 and are less prone to fouling during dyno tuning. AR3932's are also way cheaper then everything else. For ignition I just have the HKS twin power. I still have the new HKS twin power in the box and I will install that with the new engine set-up. The older unit I have now is still doing just fine.
04. Window Banner
I cracked my window removing the rear view mirror, left a fish scale type of crack but it stayed within the black part of the rear mirror holder. Apparently the crack snuck out when I wasn't looking and now the window will need replacing, will it really doesn't but I'm going to. I found another window with the factory blue tin ton ebay sold by koolkatzautoglass. Get at them before the windows are gone!!!!!! I hid most of the crack with my Rotary Extreme Banner.
05. Apexi Exhaust Tips
I love the Apexi N1 Dual Exhaust for the FD. The tip position was a little weird for me with the outside tip sticking out further then the inside tip, but it does make it look more aggressive like that. I wanted to make the tip stick out further, like every guy, to get past the rear end, I like big butts and I cannot lie. I found some Apexi Slide Finishers on Nengun where I got my turbo kit exhaust heat shield from. Yes Nengun is legit. They have a heat treating to make them look cool. I thought about removing the heat treatment like @EREBUS , but I decided to keep it for now. The exhaust tips have several holes on the bottom so you can place it in any position you want. I decided to make the tips stick out more and flow with the bumper. I like that I can still install the silencers on the outer holes.
Water is typical to see in the catch can if it is in a cool location which allows the water vapor in the crankcase to turn into condensation. You can stop this by moving the catch can to a spot that stays hot. I run into this with the wife's car. Just dumping water every other run because florida is so humid.
Water is typical to see in the catch can if it is in a cool location which allows the water vapor in the crankcase to turn into condensation. You can stop this by moving the catch can to a spot that stays hot. I run into this with the wife's car. Just dumping water every other run because florida is so humid.
Awesome, thank you for your reply. I think maybe my vent on the catch can has something to do with it too.
I'll have to try something different when I redo it all next year.
Do you have O rings on your turbo compressor outlet pipes?
yes sir.
The pri turbo oring is on the bottom of the outlet and can be seen in one of the pics. The pipe that slides into the charge relief has it on the the outside diameter.
Bousou 7 - Update 127
On My Way To Sevenstock 25!!!!
I received the front windshield for the RX7 and now it can sit in the box for the next 2 years. I was able to get the one with the blue tint on the top as well. Thankfully I had Orcnot to help carry the load home. The auto transport trailer I got looked like **** but I still took it hoping it would be OK, nope, had a friggin bolt stuck in the tire and was low on air. Thankfully I have my tire repair kit with me.
OK - I'll see all you RX7 homies at SS25 Woot woot!!!!
I wanted to give a shout out to Daniel Kuo of Garage Life. DK was able to help me verify my Boost controller set up and along the way we found some Gremlins and settled on a nice 10 lb tune that gave me 321 whp and 258 tq. This was also with a less aggressive timing so this is a total Plus. For the 15 pound attempt it made basically the same power as before with with more conservative timing. This is with the apexi avcr just connected and the only thing we adjusted was the duty cycle under the Boost setting. At 15 lb the controller was oscillating on pri turbo and as soon as the second turbo kicked on it was solid. But the main goal was to verify the Boost controller functionality and to see what the car would make at 15 lb and the smaller resonated 2.5 mid pipe. I'm going to call this Dyno a big win because I'm super happy with the power it makes a 10 lb in this configuration.
I know right. I even questioned it, I asked DK a couple of times to confirm. I even looked at Banzai's dyno pages and hes got cars on there making the same with 10/11 pounds.
The combo on the car worked good.
I still need to play with the settings and figure out why the pri turbo oscillates on high boost setting (15lbs), both turboskies were fine when online.
Bousou 7 - Update 128
I wanted to re-cap and post some dyno numbers for the Sevenstock 25 trip. Again a big shout out to DK at Garagelife. Last year at SS24 I made 350whp/313tq through the high flow bonez cat at 14psi using the old school Greddy Profec B- boost controller that Calvin Wan gave me. This combo worked really good and was easy to use. This time around I swapped the high flow cat for a smaller 2.5 inch resonated midpipe, installed a Apexi AVC-R boost controller and wanted to try 15psi. I just installed the boost controller and didn't have time to do any adjustments so I was hoping for the best at the dyno. The 12 psi setting went fine and looked smooth and then we raised it to 15psi. DK noticed some issues right away and pulled timing in the mid-range for safety. The pri turbo was having this weird oscillation but as soon as the second turbo came online everything was smooth. With the new configuration the car made 356whp/307tq at 15psi. But the pri-turbo oscillation was an issue so we went back to low boost to verify boost controller functionality which was the main reason for the dyno. The last run was at approx 10psi and DK tuned it to make 321whp/258tq. The transition was really smooth on this last run and I was happy to see the boost controller was hooked up correctly. Now I just have to learn how to fine tune the AVC-R settings. I was happy with the Profec B, but I changed to the AVC-R so I could support C.Wan. I feel for twins the Profec-B is simple and easy to use, for single I can see AVC-R being the winner. This is with stock kits, not kits with upgraded solenoid valves like the MAC solenoids. When I got home I took the car around the hood and it felt solid. I was so happy I almost did my own little side show...lol
Last edited by rotaryextreme; Nov 14, 2023 at 09:17 PM.
I posted a bunch of sevenstock 25 photos on my FB page if anyone is interested.
/RotaryExtreme
I'll post a few hereSevenstock 25 Trip
11/11/2023 – Also On Veteran’s Day.
I rode solo to SS25 this year to verify all the work on the RV and for some me time. I gave the RV a complete service refresh and if anyone here has been watching the “Orcnot” updates, you would know how busy I was this past month. Thankfully all my hard work paid off and the RV towed the RX7 for 1k miles, over the grapevine and the Altamont, and never skipped a beat. I arrived at Irwindale Speedway the night before the show and parked in a Home Depot parking to rest. I have everything I need in the RV but I wanted to make sure I was close by a 24/hr restaurant and thankfully Denny’s was there for me. The bed in the RV folds down into a queen size and its very comfortable. The next morning, I woke up and saw the day workers showing up for work and headed off to the car show. C.Wan showed me the ramp trick and it makes loading and unloading the car so much easier.
Last edited by rotaryextreme; Nov 15, 2023 at 09:03 PM.