11 Turbo Kit Together

 

12 Apexi Vs HKS

 

13 Racing BOV

 

14 Circle Earth

 

15 Intakes

 

16 Easter Egg - FB Only

 

Pretty cool kit.

I would just snip that gasket or get an undivided one. Don't want anything going through your turbine wheel even if just a small piece of gasket.


What are the cutouts for on the divided manifold anyways?

 

@TwinCharged RX7

Maybe it helps with exhaust Scavenging or exhaust pulse pressure waves. That would be my guess.

I also just read on the forums its to help with expansion to reduce cracking in the divider.

 

Very exciting stuff Ben!
Those photos of the turbo kit with the downpipe and everything put together are gorgeous!
That air filter looks super cool too

 

@EREBUS
thanks bro I'm super excited too. Too bad I won't be running this for another 2 years because I need to finish C.Wan's car first but I just had to get it before they discontinued it.

 

I need to proof read my stuff better... forgot to add "weren't" in my opening statement..lol

there "weren't" many factory fast cars back then except the Viper that could keep up.lol

Mmmmmm Vipers

 

Oh man. I'm a total HKS nerd and if I didn't love the sequentials so much that kit would be on order right now. I'm super anxious to see the results when you finally get around to tuning it. I've had nothing but good luck with HKS turbo kits. Top notch quality. I had the honor of installing an HKS twin 2835 kit on one of my customers Supras back in the early 2000's and that was a $10,000 turbo kit 20 years ago. Still my favorite 2JZ turbo kit to this day.

 

@boostin13b

Wow 10k back then. I think the FD T51R-Kai kit was like under 6k still. Yes HKS quality is top notch. It'll be on a stock engine so I'm also curious to see what is does at 12psi and 14psi.

 

I think the added cost was mainly because it was two GT series turbos not just one, this along with a lot more fab work with the inline 6 vs the two port manifold for the Rotaries. It was a nightmare to install but man was it amazing when it was done. Found one place that still had it listed even though it hasn't been offered for a very long time. I would imagine you would see some great response with the new kit. I actually prefer the cast manifolds over the stainless as well. Longevity and heat retention all in one. I also love how HKS usually plumbs back into the downpipe, I'm not a fan of screamer pipes. I would love to see the placement of the turbo in your engine bay once you start getting it together. I wonder how it compares to the old cast manifold placement.

HKS Turbo Kits & Manifolds by SupraStore.com - HKS GT 2835 Twin Turbo Kit Toyota Supra 2JZGTE DISCONTNUED

 

@boostin13b
For sure, more parts more money.
The placement is the same as the old manifold but I think they did some internal flow changes on it. The GT3-4R is a direct replacement for the T04Z, but the GT3-4R spools faster and has more power potential. The GT3-4R turbine housing looks like they spent a lot of time designing it to focus the exhaust towards the blades better. The fact that it has a slight tapper out the back towards the downpipe shows they were exploring every angle to make this a good turbo. I really hope this thing wines at least half as much as the infamous HKS T51R-Kai did.... lol.

 

I had a feeling you were going to have a great weekend Ben


I love the update - pictures, technical write up, and appreciation for the details as always


That turbo kit's a beauty - HKS, no surprises there



07 Turbo Manifold

Like Collin, I was also wondering what that notch in the manifold was...

Expansion and crack reduction?

Is that what the theory was or what HKS said?



13 Racing BOV

I am replacing my 18-year old SSQV with the Racing SQV as well, and am not going to miss the now sloppy C-clip but am going to miss the sound

Tripped over my SSQV instructions in my mother-in-laws attic over this past weekend looking through what I have squirreled up there




versus the much nicer new set up with the v-band




I prefer the sound of the SSQV over the RSQV - 1998 14 year-old import tuner in me still has an affinity for period correct mods like you and Mr Wan

RSQV definitely doesn't sound terrible though




14 Circle Earth
I don't think I can replicate what Dave Barringer and I did on the dyno back in 2009 where we gained 13whp, but clean or updated grounds will never hurt

Looking forward to seeing how that gets incorporated with my new set up



15 Intakes

Thanks for your write up, pictures, and comparisons here

I am thinking I may actually have a knock off... It's one thing when you know you're buying a replica versus being sold what you thought was authentic





13 Racing BOV

Do you know if anyone has knocked off the Racing SQV, and if so any way to tell?





Cusco 8pt D1 LHD roll cage

It came up recently on a 2023 look at roll bar options, and the Cusco unit came up. It has never sat well with me visually in the bends in the legs around the dash and B-pillars

Now this debate has been raging since at least 2005 and there's no right or wrong answer here (your car your neck your calI)

I respect and expect that you weighed it all out - what are your thoughts on it?


It's this bend around the dash



and this bend at the b-pillar



I am sure you and Calvin have this magazine issue, but I dug this out of my collection

Here it is again for motivation and reference


lol wordier than I wanted to be - no thread jack intended here

Keep up the great work on both of these builds Ben love seeing them

 

@ZumSpeedRX-7
"I love the update - pictures, technical write up, and appreciation for the details as always."
Thank you very much. I learned sharing is caring !!! It's kind of being like an archaeologist seeing something cool for the first time.

"07 Turbo Manifold"
"Like Collin, I was also wondering what that notch in the manifold was...
Expansion and crack reduction?
Is that what the theory was or what HKS said?"
I think it serves more than one purpose. Reduce cracking but I read square edges crack easier. The divider is relatively thick. The new HKS wg is 50mm which is dope. Maybe it helps with pressure waves. It sounds like it's time to get in touch with an HKS engineer.

"13 Racing BOV"
"Tripped over my SSQV instructions in my mother-in-laws attic over this past weekend looking through what I have squirreled up there"
I think it's really cool to find stuff when your looking for other stuff!!! Maybe HKS has an insert to make the racing BOV sound cooler?

"I prefer the sound of the SSQV over the RSQV - 1998 14 year-old import tuner in me still has an affinity for period correct mods like you and Mr Wan"
I feel yeah, it just brings it back to the cool additions when you cool bolt on cool stuff and make it a little quicker. Before the craze of motor swaps and tubed chassis conversions.

"13 Racing BOV"
"Do you know if anyone has knocked off the Racing SQV, and if so any way to tell?"
Replicas will not have matching serial number stickers on the parts and boxes and no barcodes. Also the new replica HKS bovs will not have the hologram inside the HKS letters. I see the sticker on the bottom of your BOV and a little bit of Hologram in your badge. I do not think they have replicated the racing bov yet - but who knows.

"14 Circle Earth"
"Looking forward to seeing how that gets incorporated with my new set up"
I will be adding a negative battery post to the front frame and attached the set-up from there.

"15 Intakes"
"I am thinking I may actually have a knock off..."
I think you have the original HKS that they made the replicas of. You have the HKS size sticker and barcode on top of the box. That's the original screw button they copied before HKS went the hologram route. Also the back of your filter should not be copper color. Also your honey comb grill is uniform. Look at my replicas, its all stretched out...lol.



"Cusco 8pt D1 LHD roll cage"
"It came up recently on a 2023 look at roll bar options, and the Cusco unit came up. It has never sat well with me visually in the bends in the legs around the dash and B-pillars
Now this debate has been raging since at least 2005 and there's no right or wrong answer here (your car your neck your calI)
I respect and expect that you weighed it all out - what are your thoughts on it?
It's this bend around the dash"
I am not racing my car on track, so the reason I got it is different. I feel it's good to stiffen the chassis up and its better than nothing in case I roll. But it also looks cool, it's bolt in for street and its something I had in the past. I treat it more like a massive cross brace for the cabin..lol Behind the B-Pillar is better than nothing if I get T-boned from someone running a red light. Your leg touches it using the dead pedal so when cruising your left foot will not be there unless you have feet like Charlie Chaplin..lol I am happy that Cusco makes these for RHD and LHD. I think it's the bare minimum required for certain events and it has the inspection hole for that. I say it's ok for street, not for hardcore track.

"I am sure you and Calvin have this magazine issue, but I dug this out of my collection"
I have not seen that issues and that was 2006, I was friends with Chuck since 2000 but took over in 2008 when I re-opened Rotary Extreme. I did see the turbo in that dyno is the exact same Apexi turbo I compared my HKS turbo to. I also know he was on a conservative tune for reliability. C.Wan had the monster VM kit in those pics so I wonder if that was on it for the tune which is kinda too big for that turbo. We all can see by the dyno its kinda choppy up top so something was getting tired. I will be breaking in the new engine, using FC Tweak, and adjusting the Apexi AVC-R for the new set-up. This is the main reason why I am switching to the Apexi AVC-R on my car, so I can learn this BC and support him at events. It's so cool you have these and seeing just how long Rotary Extreme has been around, since December 2000 I believe, maybe earlier.

As you can see, I love your post and I appreciate the time you put into it. I hope I was able to answer some of your questions.

Thank you for your time !!!!!

 

Great stuff Ben - thank you

 

Bousou 7 - Update 122



Finally got the car wired back up, ground loops are hopefully fixed, started the car for the first time in over 2 months and she fired right up. The Autocool 85 works like a champ. The oil temp on my gauge stays between 200F and 205F at the oil pedestal. The thermo-switch probe in the oil cooler turns on at 200F and off at 185F. The original Davies Craig was affordable at $70 and worked good when it did. It did take longer to cool down the coolers since 1 fan turns on and then 10 sec later the 2nd fan turns on. With the Davies Craig, the temp probe in the same spot, you would see the oil rise to 205F then drop to 190F. I am reading more people reporting the same failure as me with the 2nd fan circuit not operating. This is when I searched for a PWM fan controller to prevent over current at fan turn on and a controller with a solid reputation. The Autocool 85 has many features and is high quality - cost 190$. If my RX7 came with dual oil coolers from the factory I would do the oil cooler fan upgrade before putting 2 larger oil coolers on. It seems like more bang for your buck. Time to report work completed.



1. Electrical Panel Wired Up

2. Route Fan Power Wires

3. Ground Fixed On Batteries

4. Autocool 85 Bracket

5. Autocool 85 Hooked Up

6. Electrical Panel Back In

7. Thermo Switch

8. Charge Batteries Overnight

9. Fans Installed



1. Electrical Panel Wired Up

I got the rear electrical panel wired up and test fit the speaker covers, to me it looks a lot cooler with the flat black. The trickiest part was figuring out what size clamps went where.. lol.



2. Route Fan Power Wires

I used the negative battery wire that was routed from the battery to the engine bay to help pull the oil cooler fan power wires back. I think this negative battery cable was the biggest culprit to my IGN-1A coils blowing up on install. I had the battery neg go to the engine, then from the engine to the front right shock tower, then I had multiple grounds in the IGN-1A attached to the point. So basically I think I had direct neg 12v on a sense line instead of it on chassis gnd. I also updated my drawing to show the 2 fan power wires being joined but its 2 separate power wires like the grounds. The fan pwr / gnd go through the grommet behind the fender liner. It's easier to pull the grommet out to pull the wires through and then pop it back into place when done. I used a clamp to secure the wires in place. I had a gauge ground wire that went from the engine bay to neg battery, this removed ground loop has now been repurposed as the thermo switch wire from the AC85. I put a wire loom over the power wires in the engine bay and routed them towards the front of the car. On the inside I had to unbolt the fuse box next to the dead pedal to get room to pull the wires back to the batteries.



3. Ground Fixed On Batteries

There is only 1 ground cable connected to each battery negative that goes to the chassis, before almost all of the added electronics went to the negative battery terminals. Now all electronics go to chassis ground as well. The new copper bus bars are relocated to the aluminum battery tray tie-downs and I checked the ground path to make sure it was good. I also had to enlarge the panel cut out for the added power wires.



4. Autocool 85 Bracket

I wanted zero risk for the AC85 to get wet so I wanted to put it on the back electrical panel. It's a little big to put on top of the electrical panel so I thought I would put it on the lower support panel. I placed it on the outside and realized the seat would hit it when I leaned back so the other option was to put it on the inside of the panel. I made a bracket out of an aluminum channel, riveted it to the panel, and put some rivnuts on the bottom to hold the AC85 in place. The rivnuts were closer then I wanted but it worked out perfect, I filed down a little semi-circle and the AC85 pops right into place. I some flange head bolts to hold it down. Since I am using a thermo switch in the fail safe configuration I do not need access to the **** to adjust temperature, which it not even possible since I do not have a thermocouple hooked up for that feature.



5. Autocool 85 Hooked Up

I have 2 x 6 inch American Volt fans. At 12v, the fans draw 90w / 7.5 amps and flow 513CFM. I remember testing these jumped to my car battery and they did have some good flow. But wait, there's more. With the car running the fans will be seeing 13.8v and will draw 8.5 ish amps. Since I am writing this report after everything was installed I can say that with the car running, these fans take less than a minute to cool the oil coolers back down. I have both fans wired together as one and as per the instructions there are fuses on both ground legs. If I lose one circuit then the other will cover to get me home. I am using 10awg wire for pwr/gnd and that is what was recommended by Autocool guy. I searched for a wire size calculator and verified 10awg would work for 8.5 amps at 20ft.



Since the ground wires needed to be jumped, I turned a ground lug into a splice to hold 2 x 10awg wires, I wrapped the connections in fiberglass tape and then put shrink tubing over it. I used some of my trailer hitch extension wire to get the +12v, ACC, and ground to the auxiliary battery. After the AC85 was wired up, I installed it on the panel and put the panel in place. There's a lot of wires in that area but everything has room to breathe.



6. Electrical Panel Back In

Now that I have the battery situation resolved it was time to put the electrical panel back in. This is when my schematic became my life saver. I see pwr/gnd is not on the schematic for the backup camera and bass tube but that's ok. The schematic helped me verify which connections went to which battery on the car side. It took me about an hour to get everything wired up including putting the rest of the panels in and cleaning up the trunk area. The Cusco roll cage hides the RX7 sign on the back panel but overall I love the flat black look of the panels now.



7. Thermo Switch

The thermo switch probe is pressed it really tightly, I had to use a large channel lock to press it in. The thermo switch itself can be screwed on and off with other switches for different set-points. One wire goes back to the AC85 and the other wire simply goes to ground. I used a blue high temp tefzel cable tie to hold it in place just in case it were to loosen up.



8. Charge Batteries Overnight

Both batteries were low and I was done for the day so I decided to charge the batteries over night. The next morning I had 13v on each and when I started the car each battery was showing over 14v !!! The battery voltage gauge is the only thing that is tied directly to the batteries on the positive and negative side. This way I can disconnect chassis ground and still see my battery voltages.



9. Fans Installed

I sealed the fan power wires where they come out of the motor with some Dowsil milspec 3145 RTV. I installed some connections on the AC85 side to match the connections on the fans to make life easier. I used a DERALE 13001 insta mount kit for the fans. It comes with everything you need including the foam pads to prevent the plastic bases from sliding around. I tried my best to route the power cables to prevent chaffing against the ss oil cooler lines and also to prevent the connections from pulling loose. Now that everything was hooked up I put the car in ACC, held a heat gun to the thermo switch and verified it turned on/off. I put the rebar back on the car to make sure the fan pwr harness was routed freely. I started the car and the oil took forever to get up to temp, I'm sure I have an oil thermo pellet upgrade in this engine. The coolant temp cycled from 200F to 220F sitting in the drive and those are the values set by FC-Tweak, the oil temp stayed solid at around 200F ish with the AC85 turning on/off via the thermo switch. I'll probably bring the coolant temps down another 10F so I can keep the coolant and oil temps close as possible.



Now it's time to install the APEXi-AVC-R boost controller !!!!



Enjoy the pics.

1. Electrical Panel Wired Up

 

2. Route Fan Power Wires

 

3. Ground Fixed On Batteries

 

4. Autocool 85 Bracket

 

5. Autocool 85 Hooked Up

 

6. Electrical Panel Back In

 

7. Thermo Switch