Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Coming from you who owns a very clean looking car... thank you

Just installed the HKS RS Intakes. I don't like the red caps that are high temperature rating.



DSC09474 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC09483 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



DSC09488 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Okay so I have a list of things I've done since I picked up the car from Kilo Racing:

BOV lines were coming straight from the manifold pressure which I'm not sure if thats supposed to be correct or not but both BOV were routed to the two nipples on the upper intake manifold where a boost gauge should be hooked up too.

I looked at the vacuum diagram and routed them to the correct ports on the front side of the upper intake manifold that has 4 metal nips on aligned vertically. I routed correctly the rear y-pipe line to its correct port too.


I also replaced a kink rubber line of the wastecontrol with silicone.


Then Marc came over and played with my boost percentages etc.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

How much enjoying are you going to do before you upgrade your SMIC?

There should be a 12 step program for people that modify their cars.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

I think that's the money shot, right there.

The BOV should see manifold pressure(same a boost ports), so that probably didn't change anything.
A kinked WG line would result in over-boost, not under-boost.
But, you can imagine if you stuck the y-pipe flapper shut that you'd lose secondary boost. I think...

Disappointed to hear your vacuum routing was suspect through a couple shops. You want something done right(with an FD)....

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

car looks like it's coming along and nice to appreciate a stock rather unmolested version.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

+1
But, I liked your initial comment

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

@narfle okay, I'm probably thinking too hard. But what if the original routing was done properly before takin it to kilo and while it was there, he replaced the harness and said something along the lines that a one way check valve was backwards (though I checked them over and over again) and when he routed the lines back since they were stripped off the engine and rerouted, it was either routed correctly the 2nd time around; routed correctly with a hose or two off, or three I've gone completely mad trying to figure it out and I'm simply feeling bliss that it's just working.


And yes I wanted a completely stock car. Sometimes I want to go back. I still have all the parts to have it that way. But the potential is so much.


I do plan on getting a medium oem location intercooler like the m2 or my personal favorite, Peter Farrell.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i'm trying to stay positive, no one knows how hard that has been in these recent years while i watch shops rip off customers and they survive from it.

i closed my doors, just sell parts until they're gone and then i will return from whence i came just trying to enjoy my own car. i hate how i have become bitter at the community, but i can't be fully to blame.

i enjoy a rather stock FD and i don't cringe when they come in, like some of these guys do. it's not rocket science, especially for the self proclaimed rotary specialists out there.

time for me to shut back up and smile. hehe

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

I missed your original comment. Was it deleted?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i removed it, just a rant about shops in general and i hoped no one saw it but i guess it was too late.

i honestly can appreciate an owner who tries to learn on their own, that is how the wind direction is changing. i tend to blame some of these shops for it but it was inevitable anyways.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

@rotaryevolution just so you know, I've tried to remedy the turbo issue with no avail so I let kilo fix the issue. I also developed an oil leak at the oil lines and I had no interest to fix omp lines. So while the motor was getting pulled, I had lots of work done around it.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, man. Just enjoy the working car. They are beautiful things when all clockwork is aligned.

I take my car to shops, and I'm sure the ones you took it to did some good things.
I think what I and some others would tell you is that most shops focus on single turbo builds and dyno numbers, and not stock systems troubleshooting. And they get a lot of press for those not so impressive things.
The stock sequential system is complicated, and when things aren't right it can snowball. And, you end up with one mechanic working on another mechanics problem.
It's hard to know where it all went sideways. Which leads to DIY efforts to maintain project control.

It's a shame, because the stock car is the actual specialty(not mundane single setups), and that's the real future of these cars.
Unfortunately it's a narrow market, not well catered to.
I guess some of us were hoping the NWO would keep some of the old world knowledge and artisan workmanship.

A lot of half assed work slides by on this forum, but your build is orders of magnitudes better than that in terms of quality.
It took me a couple FDs and a rebuild to learn the difference.

I mean, look at David Hayes' build. Best laid plans, and trust in other people to follow through on their commitments. If only that worked more reliably :/
Just sucks that the community ends up paying for it. And it has damaged the community, after watching this crazy thing for like 15yrs.
You'd barely even know some of the most trustworthy shops exist from this forum. I guess they get by on word or mouth or don't want to put up with forum BS(Like our buddy above, for one).

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Your post is the most inspiring and single handedly first that should be read by every first owner.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

You two need to get a room

Getting back to the build, do you still have the Pettit intake? You may want to reuse the divider. It's not perfect, but should keep the hot air from the radiator from your intake (and make sure there's a gap between the frame and the radiator for fresh air)

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

@tomu your welcome to join lol


So this is how I've been cooling the car down after driving it around town and park it in my garage. I see high temps when I come back to the car after going into a store but they quickly drop once I start the car. It doesn't run hot. Just sits hot at unsettling high numbers.




I have a 3 Fan set up. The 2800cfm air mover gets placed in front of the opening of the bumpers mouth, the white fan sits on the bumper mounts and in front of the intercooler while I remove the pressure chamber to the side to get air pushed under the intake manifold, then the oscillating fan to bow air to both of the other two. LOL paranoid yes. Getting the car to cool down faster, Yes.


Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

7_rocket

iTrader: (6)

Upgrade the shitty RAD, IC and get dual oil coolers son!

Remove fog lights that block air going to oil coolers.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Dual oil coolers will happen, the radiator is an upgraded Koyo, I need the fog lights for street cred because they are neck breakers and Jdm yellow race car go fast, and intercooler will be next year. All in all, the wedding has tighten the funds complete up.




Untitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Love it!

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I wish I could have this as a cake setting. I found it online somewhere on the interwebs. I asked her if we could but all I got was that "look"

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Videos of this past weekends autocross at the Lake Tech center in Tavares

newbbe

i don't think removing the fog lights would make a measureable difference for cooling. if the (net after fog lights) area of the intake opening is, say, 1/3rd (or even less maybe) the size of the radiator/cooler, that's enough. the fins take up space and in addition there is skin friction through the passages.

i am curious for an intake like this / and-or a pettit intake, where the air is coming from for the intake exactly, even if the divider is there. and i ask this as i have one and reckon it's suboptimal. it must be kinda ok though or they would have noticed.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

I love the fog lights and it's not breaking the cars efficiency that I'm unable to drive it. It's daily driven and well taken care of. By adding a second cooler it'll be even more efficient then what it is now.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

FYI-1, the fans are only cooling your radiators, not the car (and more specifically the engine). To get the engine cool, you need to circulate the water/oil. Only way to do that is to turn on the engine to circulate the pumps. This is one advantage of a EWP which can be turned on when the engine is off.

FYI-2, you can achieve the same effect (but not as efficient), by using the radiator fans.

I do the same thing (using the radiator fans and at minimum leave the hood up). People, including my wife, think I'm nuts. This OC behavior has manifested itself onto all of my vehicles.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

@Tomu- do you leave your hood open when your running errands? I thought of doing this but was skeptical. The worst that can happen is it brings a few guys over to gawk at the engine bay and chat.

That air mover cools the car down so much faster then before. It was a good buy. When I was autocrossing my temps were as high as 97c and dropped to 92/3ish waiting for my next run. I had the hood open running a/c so both fans were operating and it worked well which was high 90s and feels like temps of 105f

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Depends. If I'm going to crank the car back up in less than an hour, usually don't mess with it. If it's going to sit longer than an hour, and I won't be close to it, i'll sit with it with the fans running for 5-10 mins and briefly crank the engine back up to circulate the cooler oil/water.

It's probably overkill and definitely OC, but I know it won't hurt. Regardless whether this has any affect on the engine internals, I'm sure it prolongs the life of rubber in the engine bay