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Reboot: My NEW 93 Rx7's upkeep and OEM reliability build
It's been 2 years since my last Rx7 met its doom at the Tail of the Dragon.
A Brief Flashback https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...09ea3f66e2.jpg I purchased a 1993 VR on tan touring with 40k miles back in late 2011. I immediately went to work on it and performed all reliability mods and replaced many parts with new OEM. She met her end at the Tail of the Dragon after a cruiser entered my lane around a corner. Luckily, I had no passengers and I made it out unscathed. I was paid out from insurance and sold the wrecked Rx7 to Fritz Flynn. The Old Build Thread https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8035d8f89c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4fce125703.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2440de50b1.jpg The new girl After a cool down from sports cars and getting bored with my truck, my wife and I decided it was time for another Rx7. After some searching on the forums for a few months, one finally appeared. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a605fce8ef.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...adea697e4c.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3bf4b59f79.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2134cfb3ea.jpg It was a 1993 VR on tan base with 62k miles. All stock, no accidents, and super clean. Being still overseas, I had my wife travel to Southern California to check it out and eventually drive it home. And so it begins... The Plans The intent of this build will be a reliability and upkeep thread with minimal aftermarket modifications. This will be a daily driver in the hot Arizona heat for several months before a new daily for my wife can be had. The current shopping list of purchased parts includes: Aftermarket -Bonez downpipe to be Jet Hot 2000 coated -Koyo Radiator [48mm high fin density model] -Defi Racer Boost and Water temp gauges with the Tripower dual gauge dash pod -Silicone vacuum hose job with Hiperformancestore vacuum hose in black -Dale Clark viton diaphragm check valves -Efini Y pipe with all new gaskets -Fast reacting IAT with PnP harness from wannaspeed OEM -R1 dual oil coolers sent off to American Cooler Service to be refurbished -Radiator, heater core, AST, throttle body, and turbo coolant hoses -NEW Air separator tank -Fuel line recall kit -Updated coil harness -Fuel pulsation dampener -Fuel filter -Injector grommets and diffusers -ACV, UIM to LIM gaskets -OMP nozzles, lines, and gaskets -Turbo control rats nest solenoids -Throttle Dashpot -FC Thermoswitch Maintenance and Fluids -Idemitsu Premix -Amsoil MTG for trans/diff -Castrol 20w-50 with new OEM filter -Goodyear Gatorback belts -NGK platinum plugs and wires Stay tuned for the mountain of parts pictures! |
Wow. I've ripped through the Tail about fifty times by now, and while it's an absolute blast what happened to you always lingered in the back of my mind.....
Glad you're alright, best of luck with the new build :) |
Glad you were alright, fortunate you hit on the right/opposite side of you
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Good solid list of mods here. Big plus to the Jet-Hot coated downpipe - this needs to be on EVERY RX-7, getting that coating done is a HUGE difference in underhood temps. It's not that pricey or anything either.
Dale |
It was your suggestion on the jet hot coated downpipe that pushed me towards it. I submitted a quote to jet hot and they suggested I go for the 2500* coating as it offers superior heat management. I have opted for that coating to mitigate heat from the downpipe. I look forward to all the parts arriving in the coming week.
Looking at my list of parts I've concluded that I am basically replacing everything under the UIM. Hoses, some solenoids, o rings, diffusers etc. During the replacement process I will thoroughly document how deteriorated parts actually are on a 62k mile rx7. From all my research, it seems that the most reliable rx7 is one with the most care given to it; the one with the least shortcuts, the most research in decided modifications, and most of all in simplicity. What I DO NOT aim to do with this build is OVER simplify. I cannot stand when people delete unnecessary things because it might be unreliable. It strikes a nerve when owners delete coolant lines, actuators, and factory systems because it might be unreliable. I like the sequential turbo system and feel going non sequential is bastardizing one of the main points of why this car is so different and cool. To me, going non sequential is a cop-out to troubleshooting when disguised as a "reliability" mod. Minimal aftermarket will be the key to success here. Matt |
Welcome back, trucks ARE boring. I like your ideas about keeping the twins in good working order, they truly are what makes the power delivery so much fun on the street. There are a few items on the intake manifold worth deleting and cleaning the area under there like the AWS valve. But you're gonna need a PFC to do stuff like that, so, just keep it stock and use the 1st gear startup trick. :nod:
Also, You should probably consider refreshing that engine with a rebuild. At 60,000 miles on the original motor the coolant seals are looking for any reason to give out. |
I am holding out hope that it won't need a rebuild in the next few months. The compression test showed great results. As soon as it decides to let a seal go I'd like to undertake the rebuild myself using mostly mazda OEM parts. I've been looking at a LOT of different apex seals and so far there is only one set that has seriously got my attention. Rice Racing in Australia has developed a Steel Science rotor seal kit and it looks damn impressive. If I can afford to shell out the cash for those, I will, otherwise I will probably proceed with OEM 2 piece seals and upgraded water seals.
TONS of parts have come in. The hiperformancestore hose looks GREAT. Really impressed with the wall thickness and kink resistance. Pictures will be coming soon. Matt |
The mountain of OEM goodness. Assistant #1 completing inventory for me in my absence.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2256c1703f.jpg On my previous RX7 I purchased a Pettit downpipe. I opted for the Bonez this time around and I am more satisfied with the craftsmanship on this than I was with the Pettit. This is being sent off to Jet Hot today. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0b7f3a73f6.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...15a6e66ea3.jpg Here is a shot or two of the oil coolers before being sent to be refurbished. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...17b7f0112d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...63af1eb038.jpg I'll see about getting pictures of the vacuum hose at a later point. The tear down begins at the end of July! Matt |
This is awesome - looking forward to where this thread eventually goes, your last one was definitely worth reading (despite the sad ending).
Which part of AZ will you be living in? |
After a year long tour in Korea, I'll finally be able to see and work on her this week! I'll be moving to Phoenix next month.
No one likes threads without pics. Got the oil coolers back. Very impressed with the new coating, and the fin straightening. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ef29bba968.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7d8973afbc.jpg Also got the downpipe back with the 2500* coating in black. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f88907209a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a43bdfc026.jpg More to come in the next few days! |
Cooler looks good, do they clean the inside as well?
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Feedback on parts received
So while I was away I ordered a TON of parts. From the pictures, I was impressed with the bones downpipe. Upon closer inspection when I got home, I was slightly disappointed by something; The turbo side flange does NOT allow for OEM hardware! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bfb696cd31.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4fe564bc3a.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...82dc5af803.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...205736d0eb.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b15df703ca.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...63bcb03b02.jpg I'm HAPPY that I was provided hardware with the downpipe and I'm happy with the overall quality of the unit. I'm just a bit disappointed that I am unable to use OEM hardware [especially since I bought new stuff and its NOT cheap]. I just hope the provided hardware is good quality stuff. The hi performance store hose is SUPER thick and EXCELLENT quality. I highly recommend their hose. :icon_tup::icon_tup: I finally got to take it out for a drive So I finally got to see her in person for the first time. She could use some attention. The map pocket lid is cracked and broken, the backing on the floor mats is deteriorated and leaving gross looking stuff on the carpet, and the shifter feels like...a floppy mess. I fire her up and take her down the road; the pillow balls are shot and need to be replaced. Lots of clunking! After a good warm up, I put it in 3rd and put the pedal to the floor. Surprisingly, the boost works! And sequentially! Very impressive. |
It was time to tear her down
After I took a nice baseline of how she drove, it was time to tear her apart and replace everything. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ed0272a700.jpg The AST was looking sad. I feel that she has been cared for though. The water hoses were not hardened and didn't crack. Also, the clamps I found all over the place are NOT OEM. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0b1b397846.jpg Those radiator end tanks are VERY discolored https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d920a767a.jpg Here's a comparison between a NEW AST and the one that was installed https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2b730c0211.jpg The ever famous Koyo radiator install! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8fbe7e3102.jpg I read and read and read and had mixed replies on whether or not the Koyo "drops right in". I attempted just that! I bent the sway bar mount brackets originally and tried to drop it in to no avail. The passenger side would not sit all the way down. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...36d66bd06c.jpg So I removed the passenger upper condenser bracket and low and behold. She sat right down and in she went. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dbf1ef7484.jpg More work to be put in tomorrow! I got the new plug wires and new coil harness installed as well as the UIM removed. I will be rebuilding the rats nest with new silicone hose, replacing the omp nozzles and lines, repacking the injectors, new diffusers, new fuel lines. etc stay tuned! |
Nice start. Keep up the good work.
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Good stuff, I recently did all this stuff myself!
My only problem was waiting too long to install my injectors so they were stuck closed and had to be sent out again, so if you're getting them cleaned while you're in there (which you should) just don't wait too long and make sure you test them before installing. |
Got some more stuff done today
So today was spent removing the rats nest and repacking the injectors. I pulled the alternator, the filler neck, and unsecured the coil bracket. Once I got the rats nest, ACV, and injectors out, I installed new injector diffusers and grommets. I got the grommets out using a scribe. They were surprisingly not brittle like I anticipated and came out in one piece [same with the secondaries] https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c01952f6e8.jpg Laid everything out ready to get to work https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a4d8281da6.jpg This fuel line recall kit is AWESOME. New EVERYTHING. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e2c8403f19.jpg I'm glad I repacked the injectors. They were beginning to dry out and spiderweb. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4507a18897.jpg All repacked, new pulsation dampener installed and ready to go! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...453dd9e7cd.jpg I snapped an OMP line like an old twig. I was replacing them anyway. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...662c871276.jpg This is where I left off. New OMP nozzles and lines installed, FC thermoswitch is in, injectors and ACV are reinstalled. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...154106c0ef.jpg Plans for tomorrow Tomorrow I plan to rebuild the rats nest. I've got all new silicone vacuum line, some spare solenoids, and I'm ready to get that guy thrown back in there. I'll see if I can get to the efini Y pipe installed, downpipe, and fuel filter done next week. I haven't even had a moment to get the Defi gauges in. I'm also going to be waiting on some parts. I sheared the plastic quick disconnect for the heater hose on the rear iron. A new one is en route from Ray along with shifter bushings, oil pedestal o rings, and a headlight relay. |
Today was nothing but rat's nest love
Today was spent almost entirely on the rat's nest. I replaced all the vacuum lines, tested each solenoid, and reinstalled the rack. I'm happy to say that only one solenoid was bad and I sheared the nipple off of only one. Glad I ordered three new spares. I tested all of them using a car battery and it was a breeze. I saw what some people said about them sticking from staying on the shelf. I had one that when I first applied voltage, I didn't get any operation or feedback. After I applied it the second time it popped open and was perfect after that. Here come the pics! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b0754f3062.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1ef9e98f8a.jpg And this is how it was left for the day. Rats nest is back in, all fuel lines plumbed, coils remounted. More to come next week! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...088550c387.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0bc00b69b7.jpg |
Great work! Did you just leave the condenser bracket out for the koyo install?
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Yes. I read a post from Banzai that said that's all they do to drop Koyo's in is remove that bracket. The welded on nut and protruding screw threads bump into the koyo. All the other mounts for the condenser are different. This is the only odd ball.
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It would be great if you could list the part numbers of all the parts you are getting - Especially looking at the first pic with the OEM parts.
Anyways great thread, subscribing now and keep up the great work and pictures. I just bought a 1993 with 55k and have a personal interest in your work as this is what I will be doing in a few weeks :) |
Oh nice, you purchased the one that was at Will's.
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Originally Posted by HDA
(Post 11950267)
It would be great if you could list the part numbers of all the parts you are getting - Especially looking at the first pic with the OEM parts.
Anyways great thread, subscribing now and keep up the great work and pictures. I just bought a 1993 with 55k and have a personal interest in your work as this is what I will be doing in a few weeks :) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b17978fef9.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d2d19fa45c.jpg Here's a handful of them. It's running! So I got the rest of the vacuum hoses replaced, down pipe is installed, shifter bushings are in, efini y pipe installed, etc. Only things I have left are the gauges and the oil coolers. I had broken a few things doing work on the car. When it comes to changing heater hoses, I highly suggest getting the quick disconnect for the rear iron and NEW CLAMPS. New clamps were a fantastic suggestion. Made things painless. The shifter bushings we WRECKED. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ae67761b21.jpg After it was put back together, I took it to my buddy's place and we went to town. Washed, clay barred, compounded, polished, then waxed it. Here's the candy https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9734dc7456.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...22e9855922.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...926d3e3682.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ae25d69485.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0c8483a499.jpg |
Awesome. Hows it running?
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She's running better and better everyday.
Fixing the small things I began by pulling the seats and doing some vacuuming a few weeks ago. After I had cleaned the outside, the inside needed the same love. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...458482738c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b6050d686a.jpg The backing on my floor mats is beginning to disintegrate. That's where all the powder comes from. When I pulled the passenger seat I was SUPER excited. I though I had stumbled upon a sweet nudie mag from the late 90's! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4968235187.jpg It wasn't what I thought it was :/ regardless, I needed to freshen up the windshield cowl and a few other things. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b36914f614.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b21e5e77f0.jpg This stuff is some SERIOUS magic. STILL looks good weeks later BTW. After all that was said and done, it was time to pack her up for the move. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5f3ae9fa59.jpg |
In her new home where she belongs
So now she sits in a garage. Just how it should be. As I've been driving it to and from work I've been noticing a few issues: it's got a nasty stumble at 2.5k rpm that turns into bucking until I increase rpm or push the clutch in. I solved that today by cleaning all the grounds, pulling the fuse block bracket, then cleaning and making sure it gets good ground with the chassis. There was Mazda bulletin that highlighted all this. I took her for a drive after and I couldn't get it to buck if I tried. Isn't it great when things are easy? Speaking of easy....my drivers side door lock was being SUPER lazy. I would put the key in and turning it felt like a combination of a vague effort of trying to move some linkage and the door lock painstakingly attempting to unlock itself. I pulled the latch out and found my cable for the lock was all bound up. I went to a bike store and found some cable lube and worked it into the cable and it freed right up. After I freed that up, I replaced the bulb for the door lock light and painfully widdled a new key hole flapper out of plastic using a knife. Now when I turn the key, I get a nice solid feedback of linkage meeting its stops and the lock snaps smartly into its lock and unlocked positions. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e05e599ea7.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0d7f927006.jpg Next week, I hope to get the oil coolers in! I'll see if I can post a video of the lock cable binding as well. |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7a343d4c35.jpg
This weekend is going well! I started the weekend off by cutting out new flaps for the oil cooler ducts and riveting them on. I got the material from oreilly auto. It's just a rubber gasket that comes in a roll and you cut to shape. They turned out AWESOME. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7a8c8efab4.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...14b1002530.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...83e3076493.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...79eaa4962c.jpg After that I went to work on installing the rebuilt R1 oil coolers. I got them mounted up and plumbed in! Tomorrow I'll be dry starting the motor to fill them with oil and bleeding the brakes since I changed my leaky ABS pump with a used unit. Matt |
perfect! this is exactly what I need to do on one of my oil cooler ducts!
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Real good work in here. Keep it up.
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Originally Posted by Spalato
(Post 11964732)
perfect! this is exactly what I need to do on one of my oil cooler ducts!
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Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
(Post 11964820)
Oreilly auto has a rivet gun with like 70 rivets for $18. Fel Pro part #3187 is what I used for the flaps. Get you some #8 washers from a hardware store and you're set to go. It was a pretty fun project :) to get the old rivets out I just squeezed the heads into a square shape with some channel locks and pulled them out. The heads are very malleable so this was easy.
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Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
(Post 11964820)
Oreilly auto has a rivet gun with like 70 rivets for $18. Fel Pro part #3187 is what I used for the flaps. Get you some #8 washers from a hardware store and you're set to go. It was a pretty fun project :) to get the old rivets out I just squeezed the heads into a square shape with some channel locks and pulled them out. The heads are very malleable so this was easy.
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Originally Posted by Unkachabull
(Post 11967058)
Just a tip you, can also just drill off the head the rivet with the correct size drill bit. Much easier and faster.
I ended up ordering some parts. My defrost vents are in multiple pieces each. It bugs me everytime I have to look at them :P My Rx7 has also continued to lock me out on hot days. I attributed this to heat expansion in the lock cable making it increasingly hard to unlock as the cable is heated. So I ordered a new door latch assembly from Ray. Includes new push rods in case my rods are bent, new latch [hopefully the door closes like butter! Wouldn't that be nice!], and new cables. Should eliminate the problem entirely. I also ordered a non bose privacy cover for the trunk. Having no cover looks ugly to me. Excited for everything to come in! Mechanically she's a doing ok. I've been experiencing a hesitation followed by bucking between 2000 and 2500 RPM. I followed a TSB that involved cleaning the grounds at the engine, firewall, and the bracket assembly. It helped, but did not eliminate the issue. The TPS is perfectly in spec and idle adjustment is spot on. After some reading I have tried a few more things. I cleaned the positive lead to the alternator, upgraded the UIM to firewall ground, and added a ground to the negative terminal of the battery. The BIGGEST help was the negative terminal battery ground to the frame. My further tests to fix the issue are thus: I'm going to move one side of the ground from the terminal of the battery to the ground on the bracket. I feel this will be a better "ground" for both the battery and the main engine harness. If this helps it more, then I will try a larger ground, as the wire I'm currently using is only 8 gauge. I feel a 4 would be more appropriate. Matt |
Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
(Post 11967280)
I had tried that method. Because the rivets were loosely bucked in the plastic ducts, they just spun with the drill bit :P It took under 20 seconds a rivet to squeeze the head and yank it out. Thanks for the tip though!
I ended up ordering some parts. My defrost vents are in multiple pieces each. It bugs me everytime I have to look at them :P My Rx7 has also continued to lock me out on hot days. I attributed this to heat expansion in the lock cable making it increasingly hard to unlock as the cable is heated. So I ordered a new door latch assembly from Ray. Includes new push rods in case my rods are bent, new latch [hopefully the door closes like butter! Wouldn't that be nice!], and new cables. Should eliminate the problem entirely. I also ordered a non bose privacy cover for the trunk. Having no cover looks ugly to me. Excited for everything to come in! Mechanically she's a doing ok. I've been experiencing a hesitation followed by bucking between 2000 and 2500 RPM. I followed a TSB that involved cleaning the grounds at the engine, firewall, and the bracket assembly. It helped, but did not eliminate the issue. The TPS is perfectly in spec and idle adjustment is spot on. After some reading I have tried a few more things. I cleaned the positive lead to the alternator, upgraded the UIM to firewall ground, and added a ground to the negative terminal of the battery. The BIGGEST help was the negative terminal battery ground to the frame. My further tests to fix the issue are thus: I'm going to move one side of the ground from the terminal of the battery to the ground on the bracket. I feel this will be a better "ground" for both the battery and the main engine harness. If this helps it more, then I will try a larger ground, as the wire I'm currently using is only 8 gauge. I feel a 4 would be more appropriate. Matt No FD should be without a PFC :egrin: It gives you: All sorts of diagnostic tools Some useful gauges (mostly water and air temps) Great running car (ZERO HESITATIONS) although start up and idle are not as nice Better gas mileage by at least 2 or 3 mpg etc... The bad: It doesn't recognize codes so if your OMP goes out you are screwed. Spend the saved gas money on premix. Problem solved and the engine will thank you. |
Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 11967593)
Good job on the door replacements etc.... Sorry I got your message and then forgot to look for the cable. New is always better :nod:
No FD should be without a PFC :egrin: It gives you: All sorts of diagnostic tools Some useful gauges (mostly water and air temps) Great running car (ZERO HESITATIONS) although start up and idle are not as nice Better gas mileage by at least 2 or 3 mpg etc... The bad: It doesn't recognize codes so if your OMP goes out you are screwed. Spend the saved gas money on premix. Problem solved and the engine will thank you. On another note, I moved my 8g ground to the bracket and didn't notice a difference. I then ran out to a stereo shop and grabbed two feet of 4g (my word that stuff is like a real ground cable! :p) and some terminals. I sanded down the bracket mating points, ensured the frame was clean and bare, and added the cable to the washer bottle mount screw. I'll report back on further success or hogwash :P. Matt |
Adding/cleaning/enhancing grounds can make the stock ECU and the hesitation BETTER, but it will never no away.
Also, in theory, the "stock ECU pulls timing on knock" sounds good, but I don't think anyone EVER has said "boy, sure am glad I have a stock ECU, it just saved my engine!" Stock ECU is far more likely to blow the engine than anything else. Also, what size silicone vacuum line did you use? Looked a little big. 3.5mm is what you want to use. It fits so tight you don't need zip ties or hose clamps, it's a JOB to get that line to come off. Dale |
I used 4mm. Even the 4mm hugs it pretty tight. The sidewall thickness on this hose is RIDICULOUS. Super thick.
Over the past two weeks I've been cleaning grounds and individually adding/moving extra grounds to see what constituted the biggest help. I'll report back on a few days on my discoveries. I think I really do need to just make a PFC my next purchase. Didn't have one on my last FD, but with the hesitation issues I'm having with this one, I'm really wanting to out that at the top of my list. Matt |
+1 for PFC
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PFC added as next purchase for the FD. After two weeks of adding/moving grounds, I still have hesitation/jerking around 2000-2500 rpms aggravated by electrical load and only happens once then never again. Hoping the PFC cures it. Also looking forward to the commander sensor checks and what not for troubleshooting purposes.
Matt |
Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
(Post 11967611)
I've mulled over a PFC millions of times. I love the fact that it will provide me expand-ability, reduction in hesitation issues, improved mileage, and the troubleshooting factor. I already premix a half ounce per gallon so the OMP issue isn't a huge deal. What's a current thing for me is that the stock ECU has the ability to pull timing under knock detection. I'm unaware if there are any good tuners in the area so I feel that ability is priceless. I believe an adaptronics unit can pull timing on knock, however I think its sequential boost control is not as great as the PFC. It's a pick-your-poison. :) I think I really need to troll through the PFC forums and learn how to tune and add safety margins myself.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 11968945)
Also, in theory, the "stock ECU pulls timing on knock" sounds good, but I don't think anyone EVER has said "boy, sure am glad I have a stock ECU, it just saved my engine!" Stock ECU is far more likely to blow the engine than anything else.
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Matt.... welcome to the Valley. I'm on the opposite side of town (SE Valley) in Ahwatukee, but we have quite a few active rotorheads locally. We get together at least once a month for car shows and drives, especially now that the weather will be cooling down in the next month. Hit me up with a PM and I'll share some contact info!
Tim P.S. Mods look great so far. Really reminds me of when I first bought my FD and did many of the same things you're doing now. Excellent job! |
It's been awhile since the last update
A few things have changed. My door lock cable would continue to bind during the heavy hear of summer. I noticed when it was hottest is when it would bind. I've determined it to be thermal expansion working against me. So there was only one way to fix my door lock! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5e86193a8.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...782a335c9.jpeg Brand new parts are so oddly satisfying. I can't say for sure that the door closes easier or anything, but man it locks and unlocks effortlessly. I was also lucky enough to score a nice set of low mile, un torn tan seats! When I got them, they were quite dirty, so I made sure to clean them up real well before I installed them. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0c1dac2d5.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a5597d2b2.jpeg I was surprised to see that the lower mile seats looked to even be a different shade of tan :P I have been troubleshooting an intermittent bucking issue and nailed it down to relocating the ground from the AC bracket to the center iron. I think I might not have cleaned the aluminum bracket well enough the first time I tried the TSB fix, because the issue has subsided since the relocation. I also got a new knock sensor, seeing as my old one lost all of its isolation fluid. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c82c9bcde0.jpg Where I relocated the ground https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7784e3b8c1.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2c540db70d.jpg Pic of the oil cooler install too. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...06c7a20d5.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6197ca2a7.jpeg Rebuilt R1 coolers installed and a not-leaking ABS pump. |
The little things and can make a difference too
I replaced the defrost vents. My old ones were in pieces, and came out in several more. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9368fdddb.jpeg The center one was a bit difficult to snap in. But man it's a difference. I think I feel this way because it's something I always see driving the car. Makes it feel a bit newer :P Speaking of new. I waited a whole month to get this baby from Ray. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2c078b5d1.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...19f8a44b3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2fb07624b.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bcb1188d3d.jpg Man do I love new oem. Matt |
Nice Matt. Making great progress. Would have been great to have you with us last weekend on our cruise over to Sevenstock18. Hope to get together soon now that the weather is cooler here in the Valley!
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Let me know when the next meet up is! Would love to meet more 7 owners.
On another note. This thing is LEGIT. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8f7acbbf4.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fbd8d668d.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...749727ed1.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cfbc0cba0.jpeg I've always wanted one and with sakebomb retiring the mold, I finally had reason to get it. This thing is AWESOME. Shout out to sakebomb for a bad ass product. I need to get some headlights from them. Matt |
Working towards a clunk free ride
I'm dealing with the typical clunk in the rear from my pillow balls being worn out, however I had an additional clunk from the front end at low speed and when the weight shifts when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. I jacked up one side of the car and I could wiggle my sway bar end links with my thumb and for finger. I ordered some new ones from a local Mazda dealer since Ray is temporarily out of commission. I also grabbed some new sway bar bushings while I was at it. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...10a1c7be5.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...700d41684.jpeg Replacing those were reminiscent of doing pillow balls on my first rx7; the old ones I could rotate the bearings with my fingers, yet I was unable to with the new ones. We'll see today if this helps out! Matt |
Operation clunk chaser round 2
Did some serious work on the suspension this weekend. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cfe0609c7.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cfed5658d.jpeg New upper A arm bushings and boots for the front, new pillow balls for the rear, and Mazda competition toe link bushings. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1353905e9.jpeg This clamp style "ball joint service tool" was the best tool I've purchased in a lg time. We purchased a 6 ton A frame harbor freight press and promptly returned the turd pile. This c clamp pressed out ALL the bushings we did. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...76f1e8837.jpeg New pillow balls pushed in, packed with grease, then dust seals installed. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5a767c622.jpeg Pressed out the toe link bushings too! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...06fee7fd2.jpeg Cleaned up the arms and got new boots as well. Ball joints were in great condition. Gave them some fresh grease and they'll continue to last. The worst part of the whole experience were the inner toe links. Cutting off the flange for the bushings to press them out was a pain in the neck. We worked at it for hours with a hacksaw before we finally went to lowes and bought a Dremel and some cut off wheels. I never want to do inner toe link bushings ever again. There's another surprise coming soon too!! Matt |
Nice!! Loving all the OEM Mazda goodness :icon_tup:
How are you exterior door handles holding up ;)? Talk to me about the Mazdacomp toe link bushings...... I'm looking at swapping out the original toe and trailing bushings on my BB '95 car. |
Hey rich!
My handles work! The paint is chipping off on them a bit, but I can live with that...for now. Hahah. Toe link bushings........the outer ones pressed out with the C clamp no issues. The inner ones require you to cut the flange off of them in order to have a spot to push against. This flange isn't very thick; like maybe a 1/16" but I swear it's made of some sort of unobtanium. We had this cute little hacksaw we got from harbor freight and it would cut it, but in order to get the pieces off you would need to bend the flange upward slightly once you perforate it, then cut underneath it. If you are going to undertake this, I HIGHLY recommend a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. That way you can chop the whole flange off in about 20 min instead of wasting over two hours with a hack saw :P. Once you get the flange off it pressed out with a normal 1/2" drive 30mm socket. To get the new one in, we greased it up slightly and I pounded it in with a rubber mallet to start it. When we tried to start it with the press it would cock. You can literally pound it in about halfway with a rubber mallet. I'm sure you can figure the rest :p Good luck! Matt |
Appreciate the info, I meant where did you source them :)
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Mazdatrix :icon_tup: Great resource.
Matt |
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