that ninja socks' 94 touring
that ninja socks' 94 touring
Decided to put some work in on the RX7 to try to increase the reliability, and reduce heat in the engine bay.
Some things I started out wanting to do:
FPD delete - once in there i found a pretty gooey situation, meaning it had been leaking.
Block-off Plates - No emissions testing in my state, no need for a whole bunch of stuff that soaks up heat and keeps the engine bay hot.
Air intake - found a great deal from Circuit Theory on a blitz intake. Looks great! Thanks Tom!
Resonated midpipe - the stocker had become so brittle i could break chunks of the flanges off with bare hands. time for stainless to match the downpipe and exhaust.
Pineapple Racing Idler Pulley
Some other stuff I did while things were apart:
Polished my turbo-tuff tip. I hate that its so big, but its a great exhaust, and looks 100X better cleaned up than it did with a bunch of surface rusting/staining.
R1 Front lip - great deal from Ray at Malloy, he actually got me all my oem parts.
I broke a few clips on the wiring harness. one to the water level sensor, and one to the thermoswitch. The engine bay had remained stock to this point other than a downpipe, so everything had been subject to alot of heat. The harness was pretty brittle, so rather than risk having broken something else and not noticing, i opted for a brand new harness.
I also got a powerFC. I havent put it in yet, as im not sure whether I need to depin any wires on the harness. Its a brand new harness, and a brand new powerFC. Any Ideas?
Onto some pictures:
Fully stripped:
old junker:
another 17 years of fun:
hard part over:
almost back together:
The hardest part of the new harness was getting the new plug on the firewall. I have ABS so it was a tight fit to get it fully seated. it was aso laid out slightly different. It also had incorporated other sections of harness that i had to remove.
I simplified the sequential system. I know I cant go full WOT until I do something about the wastegate. But sometimes I cant get any boost, when other times i get as much as i ask for with the pedal. Trying to limit it to 5-7psi just for testing purposes. the no boost is intermittent. Any ideas?
Some things I started out wanting to do:
FPD delete - once in there i found a pretty gooey situation, meaning it had been leaking.
Block-off Plates - No emissions testing in my state, no need for a whole bunch of stuff that soaks up heat and keeps the engine bay hot.
Air intake - found a great deal from Circuit Theory on a blitz intake. Looks great! Thanks Tom!
Resonated midpipe - the stocker had become so brittle i could break chunks of the flanges off with bare hands. time for stainless to match the downpipe and exhaust.
Pineapple Racing Idler Pulley
Some other stuff I did while things were apart:
Polished my turbo-tuff tip. I hate that its so big, but its a great exhaust, and looks 100X better cleaned up than it did with a bunch of surface rusting/staining.
R1 Front lip - great deal from Ray at Malloy, he actually got me all my oem parts.
I broke a few clips on the wiring harness. one to the water level sensor, and one to the thermoswitch. The engine bay had remained stock to this point other than a downpipe, so everything had been subject to alot of heat. The harness was pretty brittle, so rather than risk having broken something else and not noticing, i opted for a brand new harness.
I also got a powerFC. I havent put it in yet, as im not sure whether I need to depin any wires on the harness. Its a brand new harness, and a brand new powerFC. Any Ideas?
Onto some pictures:
Fully stripped:
old junker:
another 17 years of fun:
hard part over:
almost back together:
The hardest part of the new harness was getting the new plug on the firewall. I have ABS so it was a tight fit to get it fully seated. it was aso laid out slightly different. It also had incorporated other sections of harness that i had to remove.
I simplified the sequential system. I know I cant go full WOT until I do something about the wastegate. But sometimes I cant get any boost, when other times i get as much as i ask for with the pedal. Trying to limit it to 5-7psi just for testing purposes. the no boost is intermittent. Any ideas?
Last edited by socks; Apr 1, 2012 at 11:08 AM.
Figured I'd pull the questions out into a post of their own:
I also got a powerFC. I havent put it in yet, as im not sure whether I need to depin any wires on the harness. Its a brand new harness, and a brand new powerFC. Any Ideas?
I simplified the sequential system. I know I cant go full WOT until I do something about the wastegate. But sometimes I cant get any boost, when other times i get as much as i ask for with the pedal. Trying to limit it to 5-7psi just for testing purposes. the no boost is intermittent, and when it happens, I get what I can only imagine is the "moo sound", but i have no airpump, cat, or acv. Any ideas?
I also got a powerFC. I havent put it in yet, as im not sure whether I need to depin any wires on the harness. Its a brand new harness, and a brand new powerFC. Any Ideas?
I simplified the sequential system. I know I cant go full WOT until I do something about the wastegate. But sometimes I cant get any boost, when other times i get as much as i ask for with the pedal. Trying to limit it to 5-7psi just for testing purposes. the no boost is intermittent, and when it happens, I get what I can only imagine is the "moo sound", but i have no airpump, cat, or acv. Any ideas?
thats the friggin truth. if i didnt want to keep (or wasnt still in debate) the sequentials, i woulda gone with one of the other options with milspec wiring and loom, but for right now, i'll keep them.
allrotor, do you know the answer to either of my questions?
allrotor, do you know the answer to either of my questions?
Ok, so i was searching around and found Dale Clark's PowerFC howto.
He says in there:
"There are 4 wires that need to be disconnected from the wiring harness for the PowerFC
to work properly. These 4 wires are for extra emissions devices that were added in the
US market, but weren't in the Japanese market. These 4 wires are for the EGR valve
control, the EGR switch (the feedback in the California ECU cars to tell the ECU the
EGR valve is working), the accelerated warmup system (AWS) which gives you the 3000
RPM startup when cold, and the Split Air Bypass solenoid, which can bypass air going to
the main cat back to the airbox. NOTE: If you have a non-US FD, you most likely won’t
have to cut these wires, as the wiring is the same as the Japanese market FD’s. The only
reason for this modification is making US wiring harnesses similar to Japanese harnesses"
If i have removed these systems (EGR, AWS, and Split Air), and those are disconnected in the engine bay, do i need to disconnect them at the ECU?
He says in there:
"There are 4 wires that need to be disconnected from the wiring harness for the PowerFC
to work properly. These 4 wires are for extra emissions devices that were added in the
US market, but weren't in the Japanese market. These 4 wires are for the EGR valve
control, the EGR switch (the feedback in the California ECU cars to tell the ECU the
EGR valve is working), the accelerated warmup system (AWS) which gives you the 3000
RPM startup when cold, and the Split Air Bypass solenoid, which can bypass air going to
the main cat back to the airbox. NOTE: If you have a non-US FD, you most likely won’t
have to cut these wires, as the wiring is the same as the Japanese market FD’s. The only
reason for this modification is making US wiring harnesses similar to Japanese harnesses"
If i have removed these systems (EGR, AWS, and Split Air), and those are disconnected in the engine bay, do i need to disconnect them at the ECU?
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Got the powerFC in, adjusted idle bleed screw, did the idle learn.
All went well. Car drives great.
After a bit of driving though, the idle started to bounce. Shut the car off, turned it back on and it idled smooth, but high. ~1500rpm. Got home, Adjusted the bleed screw, it had to be all the way in to bring the idle down to 1200. Then adjusted the idle adjustment screw, and it can be all the way out and not effect the idle. Any Ideas?
All went well. Car drives great.
After a bit of driving though, the idle started to bounce. Shut the car off, turned it back on and it idled smooth, but high. ~1500rpm. Got home, Adjusted the bleed screw, it had to be all the way in to bring the idle down to 1200. Then adjusted the idle adjustment screw, and it can be all the way out and not effect the idle. Any Ideas?
Well I talked to dale! he got me straightened out. I had a feeling on the issue but wasnt sure.
You're supposed to do the idle learn with the car fully warmed up, and mine was fuuuuuully cold (like had been sitting during the project for 2-3 weeks.
Warmed the car up, pulled the terminal on the battery, pulled the ECU, and redid the idle learn, and now all is well!
You're supposed to do the idle learn with the car fully warmed up, and mine was fuuuuuully cold (like had been sitting during the project for 2-3 weeks.
Warmed the car up, pulled the terminal on the battery, pulled the ECU, and redid the idle learn, and now all is well!
Here's some more goodies for the car:
Getting rid of my autometer boost gauge and single gauge pod. Making way for a dual pod, and an Innovate wideband and boost gauge combo. LC-1, 3816, 3802 are the innovate parts.
because, after all, knowledge is horsepower.
Next, I need a datalogit, and some water injection!
Getting rid of my autometer boost gauge and single gauge pod. Making way for a dual pod, and an Innovate wideband and boost gauge combo. LC-1, 3816, 3802 are the innovate parts.
because, after all, knowledge is horsepower.
Next, I need a datalogit, and some water injection!
Last edited by socks; Apr 11, 2012 at 02:05 PM.
Long time no update.
I did get a datalogit, I did get water injection. Just as I planned in april of 2012. lol.
I also got an A-Spec PT6266 Turbo Setup, a Defined Autoworks V-mount, and Full Function Fuel system with ID 725 and ID 2000's, fed by an aeromotive stealth.
I was waiting for a new thermostat housing, but it was coming later than I wanted to wait to start the car, so i made a quick bracket for and plumbed in the AST (air seperation tank).
Overall:
The meat and potatoes:
I am a sucker for a Forge V1. I like the way it sounds so much on the mazdaspeed3, that i didnt want to risk buying an easier to fit forge valve, and not get the ninja soundtrack, that I asked my fiance's dad to cut me a mazdaspeed style flange for it, and I tig'd it up to my cold pipe.
There are still a few things to be done. The v-mount kit, as provided, the radiator hoses were a little short. I'll need to find some longer ones. There is juuuuust enough engagement to clamp it on, but a) it leaves just enough concern in my head, and b) it doesnt look good. It was enough to drive 2 hours to Charlotte and back for Cars and Coffee and a cookout.
The belts also need a good ol' fashion replacin'. When I first got the idler pulley to replace the air pump, the belt I got was a thick guy that didnt quite clear the thermostat housing. I eventually adjusted the housing, and adjusted the pulley enough for clearance, but the belt needs to be replaced. I also need a shorter power steering belt that doesnt go around my AC compressor. The condenser is removed and I dont want to kill the compressor in the meantime while I decide what to do.
anywho. she goes on the dyno for tuning thursday hopefully. hoping for 400whp at 15psi on pump gas. Later, I'll make some changes, and hopefully make a 24-25psi map.
I did get a datalogit, I did get water injection. Just as I planned in april of 2012. lol.
I also got an A-Spec PT6266 Turbo Setup, a Defined Autoworks V-mount, and Full Function Fuel system with ID 725 and ID 2000's, fed by an aeromotive stealth.
I was waiting for a new thermostat housing, but it was coming later than I wanted to wait to start the car, so i made a quick bracket for and plumbed in the AST (air seperation tank).
Overall:
The meat and potatoes:
I am a sucker for a Forge V1. I like the way it sounds so much on the mazdaspeed3, that i didnt want to risk buying an easier to fit forge valve, and not get the ninja soundtrack, that I asked my fiance's dad to cut me a mazdaspeed style flange for it, and I tig'd it up to my cold pipe.
There are still a few things to be done. The v-mount kit, as provided, the radiator hoses were a little short. I'll need to find some longer ones. There is juuuuust enough engagement to clamp it on, but a) it leaves just enough concern in my head, and b) it doesnt look good. It was enough to drive 2 hours to Charlotte and back for Cars and Coffee and a cookout.
The belts also need a good ol' fashion replacin'. When I first got the idler pulley to replace the air pump, the belt I got was a thick guy that didnt quite clear the thermostat housing. I eventually adjusted the housing, and adjusted the pulley enough for clearance, but the belt needs to be replaced. I also need a shorter power steering belt that doesnt go around my AC compressor. The condenser is removed and I dont want to kill the compressor in the meantime while I decide what to do.
anywho. she goes on the dyno for tuning thursday hopefully. hoping for 400whp at 15psi on pump gas. Later, I'll make some changes, and hopefully make a 24-25psi map.
Last edited by socks; Jul 9, 2013 at 10:06 AM.
a couple more:
I was a little upset that the downpipe didnt come with an extra o2 bung like I had requested. Welding one on was no big deal, but I was a little irked that I had to grind off some of the ceramic coating to do so.
It doesnt look terrible though on the car:
And the vendor did offer to recoat the downpipe. Not worth it at this point, maybe later though. He said at my convenience, even if its next winter if the car is down again. big thumbs up to A-Spec.
here is a shot of all the coated underbits:
I thought about watercooling the wastegate, but those fittings would be a paaaaaain to get to. Its recirculated, so I cant just rotate it another way to get lines the the fittings.
I was a little upset that the downpipe didnt come with an extra o2 bung like I had requested. Welding one on was no big deal, but I was a little irked that I had to grind off some of the ceramic coating to do so.
It doesnt look terrible though on the car:
And the vendor did offer to recoat the downpipe. Not worth it at this point, maybe later though. He said at my convenience, even if its next winter if the car is down again. big thumbs up to A-Spec.
here is a shot of all the coated underbits:
I thought about watercooling the wastegate, but those fittings would be a paaaaaain to get to. Its recirculated, so I cant just rotate it another way to get lines the the fittings.
Sorry, I actually sold the SSR's. Now I'm using a BBS LM Replica:
Thanks!
The car was initially put on the dyno for tuning, but the load from the dyno was too much for the stock clutch. Saving pennies for the Exedy Twin Disc, but for now the clutch holds well on the street, so the rest of the tuning has been done on the street. No final numbers yet, but i'm itching to know, so I might put it on a less loaded dyno, like a dynojet.
