my 94 touring FD, reliability build
03-06-15, 09:21 AM
#51
I know it's been documented that as long as you stay at 10psi the stock ECU can compensate Fuel for any bolt on mods. staying at 10psi in cold weather or higher gears/rpms with these mods, especially with a midpipe can be a real problem. I never ported my wastegate to be honest so I don't know if it's a total fix. I was okay running 12-13psi since I had a Pettit ECU. I also dont get the point of keeping a stock airbox in place or adding restrictor plates which kill power more than the stock cat as a bandaid because you're installing a midpipe on the stock ecu and needing to stay at 10psi. Plus what's the point of all these bolt ons to stay at 10psi. To me it makes sense that if you are going to install a midpipe you absolutely port the wastegate And have a pettit ecu at least if not a tuned PFC. You also want to add an air intake to compliment the exhaust mods. Again at this point the whole reason for the bolt ons is to raise the boost and 12-13 is safe and would make the money youve spent worthwhile. I'd put in a pettit ecu and verify your A/F ratio then you'll have a reliable and fun car. All up to you it's your car, and everyone seems to mod these cars differently, but at least someone warned you about the risks of a midpipe on stock ecu when you're looking for reliability and you have a chance to think it over. After having 4 I've realized it's smart to go with a a setup that has been researched, documented and proven rather than practicing creativity.
03-06-15, 05:37 PM
#52
I see where you're coming from and a restrictor plate would indeed only be a bandaid until I pick up a PFC if I can't control boost.
Keeping the stock airbox (by stock I mean cheap bastard intake mod and k&n drop in filter) accomplishes two things.
First off it keeps the intake from breathing in hot air from the engine bay, like your typical cone filters.
Secondly it will help control boost creep.
Added bonus is a nice stock looking engine bay.
What pop off valve have you had good luck with? There are a lot of pressure relief valves out there but I didn't see anything automotive specific.
These mods really aren't being creative and hoping for the best. Between my personal countless hours of research and talking the build over with the guys at synaptic3 who have been building FD's since its release, each piece of the car has been thoroughly considered.
The stock ecu is supposed to be great at its job, assuming stock sequential twins, stock boost and stock porting. all of those things are true with this car, a PFC would be a waste of money until one of those changes.
Bolt on mods do not have to be for power. In fact, none of the mods I have done or will be doing are in the interest of power.
Intake mods: cooler intake temps
ARC smic: cooler intake temps
Koyo n-flow Radiator: increased engine cooling
FC thermoswitch: lower coolant temps
Wrapped Downpipe: lower engine bay temps, no more cat to fail
Midpipe: no more cat to fail, will be resonated or high flow cat
Cat back: came on car, but quietest FD exhaust out there, looks stock, it can stay.
Airpump removal: prone to failure, no cat = unnecessary.
Airpump idler: prevent rotor bearing wear.
Simplied sequential: no cat, won't pass emissions, may as well
Quality silicone hose and check valves: increased reliability.
Boost and wideband guages: safety monitoring
S7 turbos: higher nickel content in hotside, longevity
Ported wastegates: control boost level.
Fpd elimination: no engine fires.
Let me know if Ive missed something here, but I believe I have all the pieces of the puzzle here for near stock, reliable, FD.
Also if anyone has had experience with a similar setup to mine and had trouble controlling boost, please chime in.
Keeping the stock airbox (by stock I mean cheap bastard intake mod and k&n drop in filter) accomplishes two things.
First off it keeps the intake from breathing in hot air from the engine bay, like your typical cone filters.
Secondly it will help control boost creep.
Added bonus is a nice stock looking engine bay.
What pop off valve have you had good luck with? There are a lot of pressure relief valves out there but I didn't see anything automotive specific.
These mods really aren't being creative and hoping for the best. Between my personal countless hours of research and talking the build over with the guys at synaptic3 who have been building FD's since its release, each piece of the car has been thoroughly considered.
The stock ecu is supposed to be great at its job, assuming stock sequential twins, stock boost and stock porting. all of those things are true with this car, a PFC would be a waste of money until one of those changes.
Bolt on mods do not have to be for power. In fact, none of the mods I have done or will be doing are in the interest of power.
Intake mods: cooler intake temps
ARC smic: cooler intake temps
Koyo n-flow Radiator: increased engine cooling
FC thermoswitch: lower coolant temps
Wrapped Downpipe: lower engine bay temps, no more cat to fail
Midpipe: no more cat to fail, will be resonated or high flow cat
Cat back: came on car, but quietest FD exhaust out there, looks stock, it can stay.
Airpump removal: prone to failure, no cat = unnecessary.
Airpump idler: prevent rotor bearing wear.
Simplied sequential: no cat, won't pass emissions, may as well
Quality silicone hose and check valves: increased reliability.
Boost and wideband guages: safety monitoring
S7 turbos: higher nickel content in hotside, longevity
Ported wastegates: control boost level.
Fpd elimination: no engine fires.
Let me know if Ive missed something here, but I believe I have all the pieces of the puzzle here for near stock, reliable, FD.
Also if anyone has had experience with a similar setup to mine and had trouble controlling boost, please chime in.
03-09-15, 03:50 PM
#53
Pulled apart the new (used) turbos to port the wastegates and have the cracks in the hotside welded up. One of the hotside wheels had some oil around the base, is this normal or a sign that the seals are leaking and it needs to be rebuilt? Shaftplay was pretty minimal on both turbos at least.
03-12-15, 04:41 PM
#54
Looks like the new turbos I had already have had the wastegates ported, I'm going to touch them up though, looks like they could have been done a little more smooth.
Finally got my simplified sequential vacuum rack put together, it is amazing how much clutter it gets rid of! I definitely recommend getting silicone hose from boost controller.com, really thick walled high quality stuff, reasonably price too!
I have a 3" ss non-resonated midpipe and 3" ss racing beat resonator coming in to fab together, hopefully it helps keep noise respectable.
More stuff from rock auto on its way:
180* motorad failsafe thermostat
coolant temp sensor
Ntk oxygen sensor
Front caliper pistons
The new timeline to have the car done is march 31st. Hoping to take the car to DGRR April 16th!
Finally got my simplified sequential vacuum rack put together, it is amazing how much clutter it gets rid of! I definitely recommend getting silicone hose from boost controller.com, really thick walled high quality stuff, reasonably price too!
I have a 3" ss non-resonated midpipe and 3" ss racing beat resonator coming in to fab together, hopefully it helps keep noise respectable.
More stuff from rock auto on its way:
180* motorad failsafe thermostat
coolant temp sensor
Ntk oxygen sensor
Front caliper pistons
The new timeline to have the car done is march 31st. Hoping to take the car to DGRR April 16th!
03-24-15, 09:10 PM
#61
Update! In order to meet my new deadline of getting the car done by the end of the month, so I can take it to DGRR 2015, I changed up the game plan slightly.
I'll be maintaining all emmisions equipment including the airpump, minus the cats.
All parts I need for the build have been ordered only a few are left to arrive.
Silicone hose job is done on the Vacuum rack
Wastegates are ported
Turbos are reassembled
picked up an optima red top battery
koyo rad is in
old coolant lines have been replaced with new
All manifolds have been aquablasted and look like new
Bad shock replaced
Rebuilt a front and a rear brake caliper
Extended harnesses of the boost guage and wideband, ready to be wired in
Intakes are ready for installation once a couple gaskets come in
Going to use motul for trans and diff fluid as I can't get redline or amsoil locally.
Exhaust is ready for install, resonator will be installed at an exhaust shop, its going to be a tight fit.
Injectors should be back from witchhunter any day
As omp lines should be in from rx7store any day
Holding off on cheap bastard intake mod to avoid boost creep
New ngk plugs and wires installed
...If all goes well and I bust ***, she should be running by Sunday!
Pics to come!
I'll be maintaining all emmisions equipment including the airpump, minus the cats.
All parts I need for the build have been ordered only a few are left to arrive.
Silicone hose job is done on the Vacuum rack
Wastegates are ported
Turbos are reassembled
picked up an optima red top battery
koyo rad is in
old coolant lines have been replaced with new
All manifolds have been aquablasted and look like new
Bad shock replaced
Rebuilt a front and a rear brake caliper
Extended harnesses of the boost guage and wideband, ready to be wired in
Intakes are ready for installation once a couple gaskets come in
Going to use motul for trans and diff fluid as I can't get redline or amsoil locally.
Exhaust is ready for install, resonator will be installed at an exhaust shop, its going to be a tight fit.
Injectors should be back from witchhunter any day
As omp lines should be in from rx7store any day
Holding off on cheap bastard intake mod to avoid boost creep
New ngk plugs and wires installed
...If all goes well and I bust ***, she should be running by Sunday!
Pics to come!
03-30-15, 01:54 PM
#62
Didn't finish up this weekend because I was waiting on omp lines from rx7store.net. apparently a processing error, they're getting overnighted at no extra charge. Great customer service, my only suggestion would be the same as I've read from others and call in your order by phone. Otherwise things are looking good. Having it done by this weekend should be no problem!
04-04-15, 08:15 PM
#63
Put in a solid 7 hours today,
engine harness is back in
brakes are together ready to be bled
Turbos are in
New o2, coolant temp and fan switch sensors are in
Exhaust is together
Lim and fuel rails are in
Intercooler and duct are in
I'll probably get another 6 hours in tomorrow and atleast get to fire her up, still too much snow around the barn to get it out.
engine harness is back in
brakes are together ready to be bled
Turbos are in
New o2, coolant temp and fan switch sensors are in
Exhaust is together
Lim and fuel rails are in
Intercooler and duct are in
I'll probably get another 6 hours in tomorrow and atleast get to fire her up, still too much snow around the barn to get it out.
Last edited by Templeton; 04-04-15 at 08:16 PM. Reason: oops
04-06-15, 11:56 AM
#64
Taking. Lot longer to figure out where everything goes than I thought, got to the point where I was just about ready to bolt up the uim and broke off a connector to the trigger wheel. Still a few more hours to go before its totally done but getting really close.
04-07-15, 02:05 PM
#66
My last shot deadline to be able to have the car running is Thursday night if I want to be able to register, inspect and test drive thoroughly before the trip.. I have been and will be continuing to work on the car into the early hours of the morning trying to get it done.
The loom I used in my harness wrap has made it significantly larger and is not easy to tuck in with the vacuum rack and lines.
Other than that figuring out exactly how everything I took apart several months ago was routed, has been a bit of a challenge. Its hard to believe how much stuff is stuffed into this engine bay.
The loom I used in my harness wrap has made it significantly larger and is not easy to tuck in with the vacuum rack and lines.
Other than that figuring out exactly how everything I took apart several months ago was routed, has been a bit of a challenge. Its hard to believe how much stuff is stuffed into this engine bay.
04-08-15, 11:57 AM
#67
Another night in the garage until 5 am has rewarded me with success! Got the engine all back together, no oil coolant or vacuum leaks so far, but I couldn't run it long due to poor ventilation.
I Still have to bleed the brakes and finish wiring the guages but hopefully its smooth sailing from here
I Still have to bleed the brakes and finish wiring the guages but hopefully its smooth sailing from here
04-08-15, 03:24 PM
#68
New clean turbo manifold 
Very ported wastegate
Dropping in the koto n-flow
Getting there..
Finished!
I wish I had taken a lot more pictures along the way, but getting it done took priority.
The engine bay came out looking so stock and clean (because it is almost entirely stock) I just need to get some black couplers for the IC piping and I think I'll be happy.
Very ported wastegate
Dropping in the koto n-flow
Getting there..
Finished!
I wish I had taken a lot more pictures along the way, but getting it done took priority.
The engine bay came out looking so stock and clean (because it is almost entirely stock) I just need to get some black couplers for the IC piping and I think I'll be happy.
04-13-15, 05:46 AM
#69
Update!
The car is all together and on the road!
Just three issues to resolve.
It is running pig rich. 10afrs, idling, cruising and boosting.
My wastegate lines didn't have restristor pills so I'm running at 7 psi for the time being until I can pick up a set.
It also has a bad shuttering / clunking coming from the right rear of the car in gear under decel.
Any ideas?
The car is all together and on the road!
Just three issues to resolve.
It is running pig rich. 10afrs, idling, cruising and boosting.
My wastegate lines didn't have restristor pills so I'm running at 7 psi for the time being until I can pick up a set.
It also has a bad shuttering / clunking coming from the right rear of the car in gear under decel.
Any ideas?
04-15-15, 11:01 AM
#70
Had a vacuum like to the double throttle plates disconnected. Not sure if that could have caused them to stay closed or not, but it was at least causing a vacuum leak. Regardless I have the engine torn back down and I'll be testing individual components to ensure everything is right before it goes back together.
I may go back and do a simplified sequential system now.
That being said the FD isn't going to make it to DGRR, but I'm still going down in the gfs mazda3 for the fun of it.
I may go back and do a simplified sequential system now.
That being said the FD isn't going to make it to DGRR, but I'm still going down in the gfs mazda3 for the fun of it.
04-17-15, 04:57 AM
#71
Nice build! I did something very similar with my last build. I also plan on doing a "reliability" type build with my new FD. A few things I would add to your list would include checking your OMP nozzles! At 40k miles on my previous FD, the internal check valves had failed, this will cause oil to back flow into the intake under boost instead of being metered into the combustion chamber! I also recommend PRE MIXING if you have not been doing so already. I highly recommend the Azeknights turbo control solenoid rack and a water temp gauge! The factory one is notoriously unreliable for it indicating an overheat condition too late. To keep the factory look for your gauges, the tripower gauge pod that mounts where the factory dash speaker is a great addition. If the clunk from the rear is momentary, or only over bumps, you might want to investigate your pillowballs.
Look forward to more progress!
Matt
Look forward to more progress!
Matt
04-17-15, 12:55 PM
#72
Thanks, I have been premixing since I got it, 1 oz/gallon.
I didn't realize the actual nozzles typically failed, I just pulled the rack back off though and didn't notice any oil residue in the vacuum lines to the nozzles.
I already have a full pillar dual pod holder with boost and wideband, I really didn't want to clutter the interior with a ton of guages, though I have read the stock guage essentially reads cold, good and too late.. For now I'm just going to have to trust the stocker.
Looks like the rear end noise was bushings, going to install a pettit street traction kit to take car of things
I didn't realize the actual nozzles typically failed, I just pulled the rack back off though and didn't notice any oil residue in the vacuum lines to the nozzles.
I already have a full pillar dual pod holder with boost and wideband, I really didn't want to clutter the interior with a ton of guages, though I have read the stock guage essentially reads cold, good and too late.. For now I'm just going to have to trust the stocker.
Looks like the rear end noise was bushings, going to install a pettit street traction kit to take car of things
05-04-15, 10:56 AM
#73
Progress has been slow, but all this nice weather has me itching to drive the car some more. The coils ohmed out well, half the vacuum rack solenoids were junk, but I had enough spares to have a good complete set. Pressure and vacuum tanks held. I just need to test the wastegate and precontrol actuators, and re-pin a hand full of engine harness connectors that have cracked insulation and could be shorting. I should have just done all of this in the beginning. So long as its worth it in the end!
06-04-15, 01:14 PM
#74
Progress! Finally finished repinning half the engine harness last week, and finished putting the car back together last night! The car is running great, minus what sounds like a small vacuum leak causing a slightly rough idle.
Pulls 20 inches of vacuum at idle, idle Afr ~13
Still only boosting 8 pounds but the car pulls hard, boost afr's high 11's-low 12's.
Looks like a just a few little tweaks and it should be running 100%!
Pulls 20 inches of vacuum at idle, idle Afr ~13
Still only boosting 8 pounds but the car pulls hard, boost afr's high 11's-low 12's.
Looks like a just a few little tweaks and it should be running 100%!
