MY 13B-RE Fd single turbo build(standing up for the Rotary) lots of pics
12-24-12, 10:11 PM
#630
so updates..
currently im job less again. I need to figure life **** out hahaha. but i finally did a bit of work on the fd.
Right now im going to make a tray to hold my ls1 coils so i can put them in the stock location as the stock coils. pretty much using a old battery tray i had laying around.. fits perfect under the UIM. just need to chop the tabs off. Weld new tabs for the coils and drill some holes so i can bolt in place..
Also picked up my Haltech Sprint RE a few days ago as well.. Wiring up the flying lead harness should be interesting, but easy.
Quick test fit of the rails
pretty much have it short block atm, redoing the wiring for the Haltech, and the relocation of my ls1 coils. I ddnt like the set up i made so taking this time to clean things up.
currently im job less again. I need to figure life **** out hahaha. but i finally did a bit of work on the fd.
Right now im going to make a tray to hold my ls1 coils so i can put them in the stock location as the stock coils. pretty much using a old battery tray i had laying around.. fits perfect under the UIM. just need to chop the tabs off. Weld new tabs for the coils and drill some holes so i can bolt in place..
Also picked up my Haltech Sprint RE a few days ago as well.. Wiring up the flying lead harness should be interesting, but easy.
Quick test fit of the rails
pretty much have it short block atm, redoing the wiring for the Haltech, and the relocation of my ls1 coils. I ddnt like the set up i made so taking this time to clean things up.
Last edited by Battle Cat; 12-24-12 at 10:17 PM.
12-24-12, 10:21 PM
#631
Today I finally got to do some work.
So after buying several sets of fenders that fit like DICK, I decided to basically go back to OEM.
But im going to add a flare to the fronts from my shitty origin fenders, should give me the look i want while making the fenders wider and fitting perfect.
plan is to basically rivet the flares to the oem fender while cutting the metal so i can get the clearance i require.
So i pretty much cut out the vents first and then i went crazy haha.
and heres a quick fit to get an idea of whats going on.. I still need to trim and shape it the way i want ...
still have some shaving to do on the new "flares" but it should turn out quite nice once im done with them..
Luckily I am getting a lot of help from my buddy from Lovely Idol..
ill have more updates tomorrow and in the next several weaks.
I know every one will hate me for this, but once I have the fd running next month, I plan on taking the motor back out to rebuild it..
I do not trust the rebuild that the previous owner did himself.
pretty much plan on pulling the motor in a day to rebuild it and throw it back in that same day if all goes as planned..
new specs for the rebuild-
ill add more once I figure out what else i can do.
So after buying several sets of fenders that fit like DICK, I decided to basically go back to OEM.
But im going to add a flare to the fronts from my shitty origin fenders, should give me the look i want while making the fenders wider and fitting perfect.
plan is to basically rivet the flares to the oem fender while cutting the metal so i can get the clearance i require.
So i pretty much cut out the vents first and then i went crazy haha.
and heres a quick fit to get an idea of whats going on.. I still need to trim and shape it the way i want ...
still have some shaving to do on the new "flares" but it should turn out quite nice once im done with them..
Luckily I am getting a lot of help from my buddy from Lovely Idol..
ill have more updates tomorrow and in the next several weaks.
I know every one will hate me for this, but once I have the fd running next month, I plan on taking the motor back out to rebuild it..
I do not trust the rebuild that the previous owner did himself.
pretty much plan on pulling the motor in a day to rebuild it and throw it back in that same day if all goes as planned..
new specs for the rebuild-
- Rotary Aviation 2mm super apex seals
- Atkins rotary 2mm Solid Corner Seal
- Custom Large street port on housings and irons
- oem seals and springs
ill add more once I figure out what else i can do.
Last edited by Battle Cat; 12-24-12 at 10:37 PM.
12-26-12, 01:01 AM
#634
I do not know why I never added this to my build thread.. but ill just do it now for those who kept asking me about it..
Small revision, I have since then used metal wire and zipties to hold my chassis harness up. I will also post some current pics. I also have removed all my airbag harness as well.
Since i am not going to be running the stock fender liner, i felt it was best to tuck my chassis harness a bit better then it is stock..
1 reason, i don't want to run the risk of my wheels rubbing agains the harness and causing a short or tear at the harness.
2nd i wanted to clean the the chassis and under the fenders( didn't want any spiders and dirt under there lol)
Stuff needed:
zipties
Metal wire
wire cutters
8mm,10mm socket
flat head screw driver
phillips screw driver
cleaning stuff
1st, Jack up the car and put it on jack stands, remove the wheels and fender liner.(note there are screws and bolts holding it in place, so you will need a phillips screwdriver and a 8mm socket.)
2nd, open the hood, pop your head lights up, and remove the bumper.( you will need a 10mm socket with extension, and screw driver.) there are 3 10 mm bolts on the side of the bumper,4 on top, and 1 phillips screw on the side.( you will also have to remove your undertray if you have one).
After you remove the bumper, youll need to remove the fender.( there are 7 10mm bolts holding it in place. 3 top side, 1 by the door, 2 under the fender, and one in the front.)
Under the fender you will notice how the chassis harness is just kinda hanging.( mine was covered in dirt and cobwebs).
basically i cleaned up it up, wiped it down. then i began looking to see where was a good spot to zip tie the harness, and also routed the harness a bit higher,so it sits directly under the top of the frame lip(right under the fenders).
Small revision, I have since then used metal wire and zipties to hold my chassis harness up. I will also post some current pics. I also have removed all my airbag harness as well.
Since i am not going to be running the stock fender liner, i felt it was best to tuck my chassis harness a bit better then it is stock..
1 reason, i don't want to run the risk of my wheels rubbing agains the harness and causing a short or tear at the harness.
2nd i wanted to clean the the chassis and under the fenders( didn't want any spiders and dirt under there lol)
Stuff needed:
zipties
Metal wire
wire cutters
8mm,10mm socket
flat head screw driver
phillips screw driver
cleaning stuff
1st, Jack up the car and put it on jack stands, remove the wheels and fender liner.(note there are screws and bolts holding it in place, so you will need a phillips screwdriver and a 8mm socket.)
2nd, open the hood, pop your head lights up, and remove the bumper.( you will need a 10mm socket with extension, and screw driver.) there are 3 10 mm bolts on the side of the bumper,4 on top, and 1 phillips screw on the side.( you will also have to remove your undertray if you have one).
After you remove the bumper, youll need to remove the fender.( there are 7 10mm bolts holding it in place. 3 top side, 1 by the door, 2 under the fender, and one in the front.)
Under the fender you will notice how the chassis harness is just kinda hanging.( mine was covered in dirt and cobwebs).
basically i cleaned up it up, wiped it down. then i began looking to see where was a good spot to zip tie the harness, and also routed the harness a bit higher,so it sits directly under the top of the frame lip(right under the fenders).
Last edited by Battle Cat; 12-26-12 at 01:08 AM.
12-26-12, 11:29 AM
#637
sorry.....but i'm gonna have to agree!!!!^^^
If i beat you on start-up and drive...... there's gonna be a fight.. Seven stock 2013/thunder on the lot drift event/ASB 2013... and other events in between!! or else you'll have neglected your car's soul so much it won't ever run correctly..
If i beat you on start-up and drive...... there's gonna be a fight.. Seven stock 2013/thunder on the lot drift event/ASB 2013... and other events in between!! or else you'll have neglected your car's soul so much it won't ever run correctly..
12-26-12, 03:35 PM
#639
Rotary Enthusiast
I am sure you have mentioned it but there is a lot of thread to rad through to find it! What is the intercooler you have fitted? Core looks monster..
Thank you
Lee
Thank you
Lee
12-26-12, 09:44 PM
#641
sorry.....but i'm gonna have to agree!!!!^^^
If i beat you on start-up and drive...... there's gonna be a fight.. Seven stock 2013/thunder on the lot drift event/ASB 2013... and other events in between!! or else you'll have neglected your car's soul so much it won't ever run correctly..
If i beat you on start-up and drive...... there's gonna be a fight.. Seven stock 2013/thunder on the lot drift event/ASB 2013... and other events in between!! or else you'll have neglected your car's soul so much it won't ever run correctly..
I am gonna rebuild the motor though, ( has low compression
but ill do that on a weekend after i make sure its running good.,Also i have the tuned planned for next month so i need to get it set..
dnt worry guys its gonna happen again haha,
12-26-12, 10:07 PM
#642
12-27-12, 04:38 PM
#645
Rotary Enthusiast
Thanks for the confirmation.. I am playing with what set-up to use on mine at the moment. Are you using standard fans or slim line ones? Are they mounted top or bottom?
Cheers
Lee
Cheers
Lee
12-27-12, 07:47 PM
#646
thank you
no problem. I am using the OEM fans, and they are bottom mounted. I plan on switching to slim fans eventually but at the moment stock will do.
If you are doing a V-mount, you wouldnt need to do top mounted fans, kind of takes away the point of it being a Vmount due to the way it works.
no problem. I am using the OEM fans, and they are bottom mounted. I plan on switching to slim fans eventually but at the moment stock will do.
If you are doing a V-mount, you wouldnt need to do top mounted fans, kind of takes away the point of it being a Vmount due to the way it works.
01-19-13, 01:45 AM
#648
sorry for the shitty pics
thanks
here some small updates...
Finally got 2 ID1000's ... now I need to find 2 more and buy injector clips to start working on the Sprint RE harness for the fd..
Finally started working on the flares.. heres just a pic before we cut it and shaped it.( will have another pic tomorrow).
Also meet up with Tom (circuit theory), He came and stopped by with some goodies...
NSX head lights for the retro fit was going to make, Super now tie rods, Mazdaspeed hat, and a shifter..
Time to clear the Air. NSX headlights will not fit directly on fds. Atleast not with a lot of modification. And in the end i decided not to go with retro fit sleepy eye..
The lights themselves are HUGE!, and would require to notch the headlight area(if that is done can not return to OEM). Another thing is that the lights being so big and the fd front bumper/headlight covers curve, the NSX lights do not sit flush to the side with out modding the fenders/bumpers as well..
so all and all I can say NSX lights DO NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!! work on the fd.. and are not worth the money or time..
but now I know.. but i got something cooking haha..
here some small updates...
Finally got 2 ID1000's ... now I need to find 2 more and buy injector clips to start working on the Sprint RE harness for the fd..
Finally started working on the flares.. heres just a pic before we cut it and shaped it.( will have another pic tomorrow).
Also meet up with Tom (circuit theory), He came and stopped by with some goodies...
NSX head lights for the retro fit was going to make, Super now tie rods
, Mazdaspeed hat, and a shifter..Time to clear the Air. NSX headlights will not fit directly on fds. Atleast not with a lot of modification. And in the end i decided not to go with retro fit sleepy eye..
The lights themselves are HUGE!, and would require to notch the headlight area(if that is done can not return to OEM). Another thing is that the lights being so big and the fd front bumper/headlight covers curve, the NSX lights do not sit flush to the side with out modding the fenders/bumpers as well..
so all and all I can say NSX lights DO NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!! work on the fd.. and are not worth the money or time..
but now I know.. but i got something cooking haha..
