Your build is meticulous. Can't wait to see more progress.

 

Damn Aaron... I love the pics and detailed posts. Great work man, I can only imagine how much work you've put into this thing. I can relate somewhat. You're way more picky about a lot of stuff (lining the trans tunnel, for instance) than my ghetto ***. I haven't burned my hand on the shift **** yet, so I think I'm OK there Keep it up and can't wait to see this thing back on the road. Black FDs are sexy. I never see them. If you're ever in the LA area holler at me.

 

Thanks much!! just trying to build as solid a car as possible!

Mike why didn't you tell me your car is running!! how do you like it?!!

And thanks for the kind words!, i'll def hit you up when i'm out there. But right now realistically...unless I hit the lotto.. i'm looking at seven stock for a completion date. I'm going as fast as I can!!

- ap

 

Well I finished cutting out the inside of the rear fender well... It was pretty difficult to get it done. I had to be very careful not to run over the lip of the fender. But I got it done...just took me abou 35 min. Cleaned it up with the flap wheel, it looks pretty good. Tomorrow i'll try to work out the rest of my roll. Also wire wheeled off the rest of that silicon ish crap off my PPF,...getting ready for some reinforcements!!

 

man, I feel sorry for you cali guys that drive your cars in that traffic in the heat.

 

Its really not bad, no humidity, very rarely goes over 90 unless you're in the desert and they can drive all year long

 

Where the op is its not uncommon to see 90s in May. However in June, July, August and September you can see consistent 100+ degree days.

 

Aaron if you want to weld up your bay i still have my small tig.

 

lol ya man, I've been driving it, sorting out bugs. about 95% there, I have to tune it now... I decided to do it myself, so until that's done (probably 3-6 months minimum) I can't really rip on it... but I love it. Around town it's perfect. I miss the turbo rush and compressor/turbine whine, but the stupid torque off of idle is so much fun around town.

One thing I realized about myself when I was doing the swap... I was very schedule driven at the beginning to about 3/4 thru it (before it was running/drivable on the street. took about 4 months total). After that 3rd month of pushing, spending a **** load of money, taking 3 trips a week or more to the hardware store, parts store, etc. I was actually burnt out. when I finally got the car running in Feb I was so unmotivated I just drove it around w/o any interior or shifter panel. I could see my driveshaft spinning on my way to work lol. I took a break and didn't really work on the car for a bit and I feel so much better... I basically took the pressure of myself to "finish" it. FWIW I have full interior now minus a glove box

Now I enjoy working on it. One piece at a time Anyway, take your time dude, have fun with it. **** is expensive. I have delayed my progress just because I didn't want to spend more $$$ at the time. Anyway, you're doing a great job and can't wait to see it on the road again.

 

^ I know exactly what you mean there haha. The push for deals gap to get my car done was brutal, but now finally going back and finishing it up.

Manny... I'm installing bushings on the entire car and am cleaning up the wheel wells like you did. Did you completely disassemble you front control arms? Meaning new ball joints?

I was planning on powder coating everything, but I forgot about the fact that I'd have to remove the joints in order to do so.

Also, are you powder coating any of your suspension arms. I've heard it can make aluminum brittle, so I need to do a little research, but might end up switching to paint instead.

 

^^^ He painted his arms with a high quality paint.

 

I pushed out all bushings and Pillow *****...but left the ball joints. They seem to be in great condition still and are still stiff and tight so I didn't even think to replace them. Evan is right, I painted everything. My logic behind that was exactly what you were thinking. I didn't want to put the ball joints in the oven, and worry about stuff not fitting due to things being Pc'd where it wasnt supposed to. (like on the inside of the pillow ball areas etc). And what was the decision maker was if I chip the powder coat.. its chipped. The paint I can just spray a little more paint on. It was expensive at 17 bucks a can. But its a high quality ceramic paint, and I got to choose from a million different shades. Believe it or not.. the paint is really hard and won't come off even when I push hard with my finger nail and scratch.

 

Awesome, do you happen to have a link to where you bought the paint, or the brand? I need some dark blue.

Also, did you clear coat with tough clear coat as well?

 

I got it from a local shop out here called av auto paint they've been open out here for 25 years. I can give you their phone number if you want. But no clear coat. I was really surprised at how durable the paint is dry.

 

Not much of an update really. Just worked on my large fender pull/roll. I don't think the fender was damaged before...but something was really weird about the inner lip. In some areas the metal was actually thicker so when I rolled it..it would push up more in some places than others.. making it very un-even.. Now we all know I can't have that crap. So I pulled out my grinder and worked a few of the parts down a little. I plan on having a buddy of mine weld in a piece where I cut it out for strength. But since i'm repainting the car soon anyways.. I got rid of the crappy single stage where I was working on the fender. Been working on it...and its just about right... Maybe a little smoother transition up top..but the general idea is in place..



and this little lady has nothing to do with my car..but a lot to do with me haha.. My best friend!



ANd finally... Got some wood for my short block to crate up and get ready to send to Howard

 

Mmm. The rear fender work and wheel setup is gonna be supreme. Looking forward to completion.

 

Great morning read.
Really inspiring! Have fun with smog.
Rx7's can barely pass even when stock!
Those ssr professors? I like.

Btw, is that piece of metal at the top what you cut-off?

 

thank you! I'm hoping it comes out as planned


Ive had fun with smog for the last 16 years, i'll worry about it when the car starts. as is.. she's registeres as a non-op.

They're Work Meisters thanks.

 

sick car bro! you gong to mazdafest? hope to see you(your car j/k) there. keep up the work

 

Yes! i'll be there for sure...but not with my sled.. I wish haha.

 

I just have to ask: are you a transplanted Rastafari?

 

Great build! Really enjoyed reading it and look forward to seeing what she'll do on the track! One thing I'll mention that has already been brought up. The stock diff in the FD is great for road course stuff and I don't know of any actual failures from driving on the road course. I know some of the AutoX guys have split the pumpkin, but that comes from drag launches in pro solo. I ran the stock diff in my T78 track car and am currently still running the stock mazda diff in my LS1 track car. Not saying you should go in there and change everything back out, but you might keep your stock one handy in case you don't like the TII's characteristics on the track. Adding a diff brace(like the TweakIt Racing one) will pretty much make them bullet proof.

 

Tranny tunnel looks great!

 

I'll be running the Banzai diff brace for sure. I just heard that the stock torsens arent as strong and tend to fail at and around 500ish whp. I don't plan on passing the 500 mark but i'll be up there close to 460-480 for sure, and I do drive my car as hard as possible when I can, so I figured I might as well change her out. I'll prob end up keeping one spare anyhow. Thanks for you insight!!!

 

its drag style launches and the stresses they put on the drivetrain that cause the parts to fail.