Gordon, yea the car has been in primered state the last 3 years when I finished all my body work. Just trying to get it show room ready.

David, definetly going to Sevenstock. I'm painting it Race Red from Ford.

 

^ Gotta post up pics of that bad boy when it is painted. Is the engine work and tuning done? If so, how did all the mods turn out for you?

 

David my build thread may go up either before Sevenstock or just after. Still debating! I had to retune all over again because my original map was saved in my old laptop and the harddrive took a dump. I thought I had tuning problems and was switching maps when it was just those damn D585 coils. 2 years later, I put the Ls1's back in and its been perfect. So its taken me a bit to refamiliarize myself with the whole setup since I hadn't touched the car in so long. A couple minor issues recently. I have a coolant leak inside the engine that I'm fixing now and a faulty injector. It's a good thing I recently installed egt sensors otherwise I would have never found that problem.

Gordon, I don't know about the old red but the one Im using is on the later model Mustangs. It's a brighter red.

 

^ Looking forward to seeing your build info. I think a lot of guys will be surprised and very intrigued with what you have accomplished

I think we may have discussed this, but why had you installed the D585 coils? Stronger spark? Could the dwell settings have been off and that is why they didn't work? There is a lot of chatter about these coils and the need to change dwell settings but I am not sure how that applies to a rotary. For what it is worth, I have not seen any benefit as of yet from the AEM smart coils over the MSD Blaster SS coils I had installed but to be fair, I had some pretty big wiring issues so we shall see soon.

That sucks with the laptop and losing your files. Always have a backup seems to be the lesson learned here.

Get that sucker back on the road and let's see it on track at VIR!

 

I installed them because they were "suppose" to be better than the Ls1's. They did have a stronger spark but they were also auto discharging. I even set my dwell lower and that still didnt help. Apparently on a rotary, duration is very important and not just spark output. The ls1 coils destroy the D585's in that category.

This tech thread is probably the best I've read here in a long time.

https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-as...hread-1035364/

 

^ Very interesting thread on the coils Trey. I think C. Ludwig had me set my AEM coils at 4.5 ms. Using the calculations in the thread, I'd need like 7.5 ms at 8,000 RPMs so this has me confused.

 

No, you don't need 7.5ms, that is the max time available. You don't want to charge the coils more then 40% of the time or they will overheat. 4.5ms is correct.

thewird

 

^ Thanks Marco for clearing up my usual confusion I don't even know if this matters or if Haltech supports it, but does it make sense to vary dwell time by RPM?

 

Depends how you configure it. You can either have it a fixed charge dwell time or a constant duty percentage. Most people used the fixed dwell as you can't incorporate a max dwell with the percentage. 4.5ms on the marine coils is more then enough for most applications. You can't directly control it by RPM but that would be a nice feature since you could max the charge time at low-mid RPM's and then bring it down as needed.

Before I had my 20b properly tuned, with pretty much flat 10 AFR it would still spin tires on the highway in 3rd gear with partial throttle lol. The coils are awesome and now that its properly tuned, I can light up my street tires in 4th gear LOL.

thewird

 

^ Thanks for the info Marco. That is good to know about the coils. On the basis of this, I'm confident my issues had to do with the wiring not the AEM dwell settings.

 

Been a while since I poked my head in here. Car is looking fantastic! Love the foot rest (of all things, right? lol). Keep up the great work.

Also, did you ever finalize the IC and radiator cores? Or is Kilo still looking for the best sizes to use?

p.s. voted 5 stars to help out. Shame what some people here do.

-Jose

 

^ Good to hear from you Jose. Glad you like the footrest - it's from Bubble Tech here on the forum. It's crazy the little things we like isn't it? I gotta say, one of my favorite mods still is the RX8 lighted shift **** so who am I to say otherwise?

The IC and radiator cores have not been finalized yet. That was waiting on the car to get out of paint and as of yesterday, it's now done and back at Kilo's. Kilo is reinstalling the engine and then it's off to Gato's for the v-mount fabrication. My guess is this happens next week with everything being completed in about one month. Paint looks awesome and will post some pics up as soon as I have a spare moment. Really want to see the new rims on the car as I think those will take the car in a new more aggressive direction.

I appreciate the up vote. At the risk of this blowing back at me once again, it really is a shame what some members do. And then they go in other threads and laugh about it as well. At the end of the day, everyone is responsible for their own actions and what goes around usually comes back to bite you pretty hard. The motto here - do good and you can't go wrong.

 

Some pics of the car back from paint. Carlos from Integrity Body Shop in St. Cloud did a fantastic job and I can't wait to see the car in person. Note some of the trim is not on the car yet as Carlos wants to put this on after Kilo finishes with the car. I'm also swapping out the shiny allen head bolts on the Pettit rear flares for some matte black ones to match the new "evil" theme. Finally, Carlos re-cleared my taillights so they look nice and new.

 

Wow David, sick! So, now it's back to get the engine and vmount installed? I take it he shot the engine bay at the same time?

 

david you need a little lip at the front of your hood vent or it will be useless while you're moving!

 

I still remember the first time I was behind David's car at DGRR...the rear end and the tires were ridiculously wide.

Edit: The above is meant as a compliment. Looks amazing as always.

 

Thanks Tim. I'm really pleased with how the paint looks, at least in the pics. Looking forward to seeing it in person as I think it will look even better. And yes, the engine bay got repainted at the same time the car was painted. Carlos said he had to a a good amount of prep work in the bay area to fix my front support bar (long story about this as it was hacked way back when the car was at Wolf USA getting the original single turbo conversion done) and areas that had degraded from the turbo heat. I've been told the engine bay looks even better than the exterior so that makes me really excited to see it.

The car is now back at Kilo where the engine is being reinstalled. Then, they will transport the car over to Gato, the metal fabricator for the v mount fab and installation. Gato is also redoing the exhaust system to open it up a bit more to prevent back pressure. Still want to keep a a balance between this and sound so it won't be much larger but we shall see what they come up with.

Good catch on that. We've discussed adding that for a while now and had even taped on at one point a small lip to the front of the vents to test. Temps were too hot anyway so we held off with further testing. I'll be curious to see how the v mount works as I think this will be the ultimate solution anyway to control temps.

Thanks for the compliments Gordon. Just trying to keep up with you

That baby's got back for sure I'm always surprised when I see pics from the rear but I really like the look.

 

Holly Shmit David.

You know I always wanted to do black but it's just too damn hot and dusty in my part of the country. Tim knows what I'm talking about.

 

Wow, the car looks amazing with everything coming together. That paint job looks better then new thats one hell of a shine I'm looking forward to next years gap already. nothing like listening to a 20b live

 

David,

two good friends of mine were just going through this when creating a "drop vent" style hood for an FC. before adding a lip to the front of the opening it was pushing a small amount of air INTO the exit instead of letting airflow scavenge it out. the temps were actually way worse (both coolant and air temp). then we added the lip and the temps dropped like a rock and were perfect at road atlanta in 90* weather.

 

Thanks for the info. If I read you correctly, they added the lip to the upper front right? That's what we considered doing. I know the way it is now works when the car is stopped but we've always assumed if we added the lip upfront, we'd get the effect you speak of. Should have done this before the hood was repainted

 

David

Are those the wider Shine front fenders?

 

Yes sir, they are. Thanks for pointing these out to me as I didn't know they offered them. The body shop said they fit really well and they didn't have to do much work on them.

 

david, yes. lip up front, the side closer to the front bumper.

i have the mazdaspeed replica hood on my personal FD, which has a small lip in front of the vents, and it works very very well with my VMIC. air just shoots straight up out of the vents and toward the windshield. i verified this not only with low temps at the track, but when the car got rained on and water got down into the intercooler through the hood vents. i left work with the water on the intercooler from rain, and when i got on the interstate the air flowing through the vents shot the water up through the vents from the IC onto my windshield and it did it for a couple minutes until the IC was dry.

 

See how I did it again? If you want to quote someone, then look at the bottom right of their post and click the "quote" button. This will open up a response box with the quote inserted. If you want to quote more than one person in a response, then click the "+" button at the bottom right of the post. You can click the "+" for each post you wish to respond to but make sure you click the "quote" button for the last person you wish to respond to. Once you do this, then you'll get a reply box that has all the quotes in it and you can then go from there.

Regarding the tires, 10s up front are not all that uncommon nowadays. I know a bunch of guys that run them particularly the track guys. The 11.5s in the rear are unusual but I need those to fill out the Pettit rear flares. The new ones are down from the previous 12.5 ones as I tried to get closer in matching the front and rear to eliminate push on the track. Not perfect but better than before. With the 275 and 315
combo I should be in pretty good shapre.

Going to test this once the car is back together and on the road. Tim gave me a great idea in using so cleaning clay to mold a temporary lip on the front so I can measure temp differences with and without the lip. I think I will also seal up the vent (put some duct tape over it on the inside of the hood) and measure again so I can have some solid data for my setup. Should be interesting.