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Welp door handle broke yesterday on me when trying to leave work...was able to get in through the passenger side. Got home and took the handle assembly off the car and sure enough the plastic handle broke. Tested opening the door from the outside using the rods and it worked fine. New aluminum handles ordered from ebay. Good excuse to put a fresh coat of black paint on them while they're off the car
That rod look pretty nasty, it's probably a good time to grease all the joints while you have the handle apart. Maybe add the stopper bolt, get new dust shutter screen and do the LED key hole light.
That rod look pretty nasty, it's probably a good time to grease all the joints while you have the handle apart. Maybe add the stopper bolt, get new dust shutter screen and do the LED key hole light.
Mine doesn't even have the shutter haha do you know where I can buy a rebuild kit?
I don't see myself doing the stopper bolt, may do the LED upgrade. Appreciate the input!
Both my key cylinder were missing the shutter as well. Reach out to jza80, he sells the shutter kit here.
If you have a set of old worn handle, I highly recommend the stopper bolt. My driver side one has good amount of resistance when I try to open it, a lot smoother with the stopper, not to a point as smooth as my passenger side but I think it will eliminate the stress on the handle.
I will reach out to them. I'll be cleaning and lubricating everything in there, I agree the bolt will relieve some stress but with the plastic handles replaced with aluminum ones I'm not concerned about them ever breaking again
I've bought a few things from them in the past, I'm just going to leave the lock cylinder alone for now because of the shipping time from Japan. It's good to know they sell them though. I need to order a new rear view mirror and defroster vents eventually to clean things up so ill just add the key cylinder kit to the list when the time comes
Came back from a two week vacation on the 6th, worked till like 11:30pm putting the car back together for 7s day. Woke up to it pouring rain thanks to hurricane Elsa...so I went to start the daily and the battery was completely dead lol. Ended up driving the FD through the rain all day with no AC! Happy 7s day from Florida
For anyone wondering the aluminum door handles from ebay fit perfectly
I finally got around to replacing the HKS super dragger exhaust that came with the car. Replaced it with a HKS hi-power. The hi-power is more quiet when cruising and louder at high RPMs compared to the super dragger. The old one scraped on absolutely everything and I never liked the way it sat on the car. Also got around to replacing the defroster vents.
When testing out the new exhaust my clutch pedal started sticking. If trying to reverse the pedal would stick to the floor and the clutch would begin disengaging all the way on the floor (car would stall with pedal stuck close to the floor). I can get into and out of gears fine with the car on, the pedal just likes to get stuck near the bottom in reverse and first, 2nd-5th the clutch acted normal. I've noticed a very small leak on the interior where the master cylinder interacts with the clutch pedal rod, hoping this is my issue. New master cylinder + gasket, slave cylinder, and clutch line ordered.
The master and slave cylinder are original parts so they've been on my list for a while. The small leak was noticed at least 6 or so months ago I've just been lazy with it. Seems like keeping the back end of the car jacked up for 3 days allowed air to get into my clutch line? Brake fluid is still above min level. Going to flush the brake fluid and bleed all brakes + slave cylinder after replacing these parts.
I saw that while doing some research on my issue. Seems like that mainly happens with aftermarket clutches / pressure plates; mine still goes in and out of any gear. Clutch in, transmission in reverse: the clutch pedal will raise maybe one inch off the floor before sticking. When it reaches the point where the pedal sticks the car will stall out unless the clutch is pressed all the way in again. The clutch is disengaging much lower than it ever has before, at least that's how it feels.
I can push the clutch pedal back up with the top of my foot but it sticks in the same position 10 out of 10 times when trying to reverse. In 1st gear it doesn't really stick but does seem to grab the gear earlier than I'm used to. 2nd-5th the clutch seemed to work like normal. Originally I thought the pedal was just gunked up and that driving it for a while would loosen it back up, but after driving for 15 minutes first gear still felt the same and reverse was just as wonky as it was when I was trying to get out of the garage.
I should also note the brakes did not feel to be affected and were functioning as they should. I'm going to lift the front end up tonight to take a look at the slave cylinder and check for leaks, I'll also take a look at the clutch fork. Input and advice welcomed.
Love the build. Building legit the exact same looking car with the OEM 99 front bumper. The only thing not OEM will be the 99 spec wing clone from Gramotoring, but it has carbon fiber on it which I think will look cool as well.
Have the same RPF1 wheels, but just looking for hubcaps that fit me.
My hub caps came with the wheels...shout out to Steve lol.
I wanted to prioritize the parts I wanted for the car over performance since the prices just keep climbing for both the parts and the car. My list is finally winding down, all that's left: spare tire cover, rear view mirror, undertray, driver side a pillar trim, and the top side of the trim that goes behind the steering wheel. Previous owner thought it was a good idea to drill holes in the a pillar and steering wheel trim . Undertray and spare tire cover probably won't be OEM, I've had a difficult time trying to track those two items down
New master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch line installed. Happy to report the car is back on the road once again.
Two things to note:
1. The master cylinders are identical for LHD and RHD cars despite them having different part numbers, the hydraulic line fitting just needs to be rotated 90 degrees to make it work on a RHD set up.
2. Hardest part about this was getting the slave cylinder rod to seat correctly in the clutch fork, I got it right on try #5. The first four attempts resulted in the little piston blowing out of the slave cylinder when trying to bleed the system. If this happens you'll notice brake fluid dripping out of the inspection plate, clutch pedal will also have zero resistance. Just know it's possible to blow the rod of the slave cylinder out of the boot that secures it and then you'll have to go fishing for it through the inspection plate....ask me how I know....not fun.
Turned out to be a good weekend for maintenance so I helped my roommate do some work on his boat. New belts for the engine and new bearings for the hubs.
06-17-21, 02:03 PM
. Undertray and spare tire cover probably won't be OEM, I've had a difficult time trying to track those two items down
