ImStillOnJava: belated Project thread
03-12-10, 03:40 AM
#78
Oompa Loompa Doopity Doo!
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Final touches before dropping the car back down, I took the the black painted JUN a-arm braces and installed them. Nice and simple bolt in affair. Just had to back out the bolts and replace, nothing needed to be disassembled (for which I was grateful).
Somebody on the forum hit me up for the old Nitto NT01s that were on the car- 245s and 275s (since I had the new Hankook Ventus just sitting around). so I pulled off the Nittos and sold them to him and mounted on the fatty 265/315s. They look great! And they also currently do not fit the car with the car's alignment completely out of wack from the delrin bushing install, new rack, and tie rods. I think, even with the alignment, it will either barely clear....or barely not. Alignment & corner balance @ Evasivemotorsports is scheduled for the first Sat of April, so ::fingers crossed::. Otherwise, off these tires go, and on something new goes. I definitely felt like I had a little more space to play with when I had the 245s/275s....we'll find out exactly how much space that should be in a few more weeks.
After all this, I was on my way to putting the car back together. Bumper back on, headlights back on, car back on the ground.
....and then I realized I forgot to put on my Nagisa fender braces.
Sure, I'll eventually have one reason or another to take the car back apart, and then I can throw the braces on then. But I have more than enough parts stockpiled and waiting for a good time to be installed. I figured I might as well create the moment for the fender brace install since the car is garaged until it's alignment appointment.
So earlier this week, back up on the jacks it went...off the headlights, bumper, and fenders it went.
I thought it'd be a good time to show some awesome attention to detail SevenApple (Makito) did on the front fenders, as far as reinforcing the edges for structurally rigidity.
I also cleaned off about 14 years of dirt and dust that had been gathering in that space between the body and the fender of the car. Funny how I keep finding new spots filled with crud on this car :/
Anyway, onward to my Nagisa fender brace install pictures. It was a really straightforward install, with great fitment. Very very close clearance to the body, but in the end - no issues with contact.
Next update in a few weeks:
- I got my repaired UIM back with a few additional improvements to it (more pics!)
- Alignment & corner balance results
Somebody on the forum hit me up for the old Nitto NT01s that were on the car- 245s and 275s (since I had the new Hankook Ventus just sitting around). so I pulled off the Nittos and sold them to him and mounted on the fatty 265/315s. They look great! And they also currently do not fit the car with the car's alignment completely out of wack from the delrin bushing install, new rack, and tie rods. I think, even with the alignment, it will either barely clear....or barely not. Alignment & corner balance @ Evasivemotorsports is scheduled for the first Sat of April, so ::fingers crossed::. Otherwise, off these tires go, and on something new goes. I definitely felt like I had a little more space to play with when I had the 245s/275s....we'll find out exactly how much space that should be in a few more weeks.
After all this, I was on my way to putting the car back together. Bumper back on, headlights back on, car back on the ground.
....and then I realized I forgot to put on my Nagisa fender braces.
Sure, I'll eventually have one reason or another to take the car back apart, and then I can throw the braces on then. But I have more than enough parts stockpiled and waiting for a good time to be installed. I figured I might as well create the moment for the fender brace install since the car is garaged until it's alignment appointment.
So earlier this week, back up on the jacks it went...off the headlights, bumper, and fenders it went.
I thought it'd be a good time to show some awesome attention to detail SevenApple (Makito) did on the front fenders, as far as reinforcing the edges for structurally rigidity.
I also cleaned off about 14 years of dirt and dust that had been gathering in that space between the body and the fender of the car. Funny how I keep finding new spots filled with crud on this car :/
Anyway, onward to my Nagisa fender brace install pictures. It was a really straightforward install, with great fitment. Very very close clearance to the body, but in the end - no issues with contact.
Next update in a few weeks:
- I got my repaired UIM back with a few additional improvements to it (more pics!)
- Alignment & corner balance results
04-02-10, 02:23 AM
#79
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Once more, with feeling.
Just as I was ready to put the car back on all 4 feet, I decided to change the oil....and then fix some superficial rust spots at the front of the car by the stock tow hook area. When the car's up on jackstands, its way easier to see the flaws on the car that are otherwise no more than 4 inches off the ground...
before:
after:
and a regression of the progress...
I also noticed that the side skirt attachment points onto the front fenders were not nearly as secure as the points onto the metal body. After removing parts off the car a few times over, the holes on the fender were loosened enough that the sideskirts weren't holding on when I tried to reassemble.
So off the fenders went again for 24 hrs while I epoxied some thread sleeves.
Now the the cf sideskirts are mega-secure!
Car's got alignment and corner balance scheduled this Saturday. I need to get creative with my rim/tire setup for now, because it looks like I was a bit overly ambitious with the 315/30/18s in the rear. Absolutely will not clear and get me off the driveway with the alignment out of wack... so I'm moving the fronts to the rear for now and borrowing some temporary fronts off the boyfriend's Z33 for the alignment day.
Side note: I was watching Hannibal the other day, and check out the movie at 1:27:29....I see me a Montego Blue FD!
before:
after:
and a regression of the progress...
I also noticed that the side skirt attachment points onto the front fenders were not nearly as secure as the points onto the metal body. After removing parts off the car a few times over, the holes on the fender were loosened enough that the sideskirts weren't holding on when I tried to reassemble.
So off the fenders went again for 24 hrs while I epoxied some thread sleeves.
Now the the cf sideskirts are mega-secure!
Car's got alignment and corner balance scheduled this Saturday. I need to get creative with my rim/tire setup for now, because it looks like I was a bit overly ambitious with the 315/30/18s in the rear. Absolutely will not clear and get me off the driveway with the alignment out of wack... so I'm moving the fronts to the rear for now and borrowing some temporary fronts off the boyfriend's Z33 for the alignment day.
Side note: I was watching Hannibal the other day, and check out the movie at 1:27:29....I see me a Montego Blue FD!
07-03-10, 11:53 AM
#81
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It brakes my heart... (Rear Brakes Edition)
...that this car is still not on the road yet. haha.
My brakes were in dire need of an upgrade, so I had AutoRnD set me up with a RacingBrake rear OE bbk, and then journeyed down to local Fullerton to willcall it.
First to go...is the OEM brake dust shield in the rears. They don't clear the RB rotors, and they don't serve any particular function enough for me to modify and keep them. I looked all over the car and in the Mazda factory manual, and there wasn't an indication of how to remove it at all. It looked like a pressed/interference fit of the metal shell. So I tried the "delicate" route of dremeling it out with a metal cutter first. That took way too much time, and there were way too many flying carbon discs as a result...so I busted out the tiny arm muscles, and used a pair of tin snips + some can opener type action to rip those buggers off.
Tried cleaning some dirt off....did it work?
Removed the calipers, cleaned then up - and gave them some fresh black caliper paint.
Also painted the center bolt and hub. All done! Easy pea-sie. If only I knew about the PITA that was yet to come for the fronts.
My brakes were in dire need of an upgrade, so I had AutoRnD set me up with a RacingBrake rear OE bbk, and then journeyed down to local Fullerton to willcall it.
First to go...is the OEM brake dust shield in the rears. They don't clear the RB rotors, and they don't serve any particular function enough for me to modify and keep them. I looked all over the car and in the Mazda factory manual, and there wasn't an indication of how to remove it at all. It looked like a pressed/interference fit of the metal shell. So I tried the "delicate" route of dremeling it out with a metal cutter first. That took way too much time, and there were way too many flying carbon discs as a result...so I busted out the tiny arm muscles, and used a pair of tin snips + some can opener type action to rip those buggers off.
Tried cleaning some dirt off....did it work?
Removed the calipers, cleaned then up - and gave them some fresh black caliper paint.
Also painted the center bolt and hub. All done! Easy pea-sie. If only I knew about the PITA that was yet to come for the fronts.
07-03-10, 03:06 PM
#82
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It brakes my heart... (Front Brakes Edition)
....that this car STILL is not in motion. What do I need brakes for if its not moving??
Anyway - for the fronts, I had a few things going on.
At the end of 2009, I purchased a used set of N-Tech Engineering designed AP Racing brakes. Came with a couple sets of Ferodo pads, brackets, stainless steel brake lines, rotors with plenty of meat left, and CP5200 calipers. I kept them stored for months, and finally had the chance to break them out.
Just around that same time, someone was selling their used sets of N-Tech Engineering brake ducts. It came with the plastic ducts to match up to a 99 spec bumper, hosing, and the backing plates. I picked up the set, and ended up selling off the hosing and plastic ducts. I decided to use the backing plates, buy new hosing (that wasn't orange :/ ), and fabricate some new ducts to work with the FEED bumper (still need to get started on that part).
The toughest part of installing the backing plates? Getting the aluminum hub cap off, and then finding a long enough bar to extend my "not long enough" breaker bar, and rip off that big ol hub nut. The rotor was frozen on insanely well - the two rotor screws were stubborn...and the impact driver sucked! It was actually easier using the screw attachment and a breaker bar.
After that, and about $3.00 worth of hardware in the form of long screws and misc washers and nuts....I managed to pop off the rotor by this method:
Youtube link to someone with a brilliant ideahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs">.
After that, it was cake! (or so I thought).
I masked off the rotors to repaint some of the edges.
I also thought to give a try and change the color of the AP logo. That wasn't fun to mask off.
Anyway - for the fronts, I had a few things going on.
At the end of 2009, I purchased a used set of N-Tech Engineering designed AP Racing brakes. Came with a couple sets of Ferodo pads, brackets, stainless steel brake lines, rotors with plenty of meat left, and CP5200 calipers. I kept them stored for months, and finally had the chance to break them out.
Just around that same time, someone was selling their used sets of N-Tech Engineering brake ducts. It came with the plastic ducts to match up to a 99 spec bumper, hosing, and the backing plates. I picked up the set, and ended up selling off the hosing and plastic ducts. I decided to use the backing plates, buy new hosing (that wasn't orange :/ ), and fabricate some new ducts to work with the FEED bumper (still need to get started on that part).
The toughest part of installing the backing plates? Getting the aluminum hub cap off, and then finding a long enough bar to extend my "not long enough" breaker bar, and rip off that big ol hub nut. The rotor was frozen on insanely well - the two rotor screws were stubborn...and the impact driver sucked! It was actually easier using the screw attachment and a breaker bar.
After that, and about $3.00 worth of hardware in the form of long screws and misc washers and nuts....I managed to pop off the rotor by this method:
Youtube link to someone with a brilliant ideahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs">.
After that, it was cake! (or so I thought).
I masked off the rotors to repaint some of the edges.
I also thought to give a try and change the color of the AP logo. That wasn't fun to mask off.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 07-05-10 at 10:11 PM.
07-03-10, 03:06 PM
#83
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Okay, looking good...right?
But wait! I should have checked this first! There's a crack on the passenger side bleeder screw. This caliper won't do anymore :/
....that was an unhappy week. hahah. Anyway, I sucked it up - and made my way over to Stillen in Costa Mesa, who's an authorized distributor for AP Racing. The benefits of living in So Cal
Everything can be found locally! Really, really great customer service there - and they were a great help in working with me to purchase a replacement. The logo had changed somewhat, and the AP lettering is rounded off now instead of squared, so I walked away with an entirely new set of calipers and new lines.
But how am I supposed to replace the AP original aluminum pistons, with the upgraded stainless steel pistons in my old set? (Please keep in mind, I've never done brakes before...so the fact that this tiny little chinese girl has figured this out for herself thus far, means you can do it too! Because my Mech Eng degree be damned, we learned theory - we weren't taught to be mechanics!) Well, bless the internet...turns out all I needed was the right compressed air attachment and some wood sheets to keep the pistons cushioned and balanced to pop out equally. It was annoying since different pistons chose to pop out all the way and remove pressure from the caliper system individually, but it became way easier with each passing caliper.
That's right, these SS pistons are sitting on a Michaels Arts & Crafts receipt. That's where I buy my wood piston cushioning car tools. Where do you buy yours?
Comparison shot.
I stripped the flare not bolts for the hard steel brake line that connects to the flexible brake line on the driver side, and now I'm waiting for Ray at Malloy to save my day with a new hard steel brake line en route....
but for the most part, front calipers, rotors, flexible steel brake lines, brake pads, and brake ducted backing plates are installed!
Just need the driver side replacement hard brake line, duct hose, and to fabricate some fiberglass ducts now.
PS - I also took the time to clean up the trashed caliper....resurfaced it, and repainted it, and now its this really super nifty business card holder that I use at my cubicle
Anybody need a single spare AP caliper? I've got one good one sitting around missing its pair :/
PPS - One car always gets jealous of another. The DD S2000's brakes went out while I was working on the FD's brakes. Talk about last minute reminder on the indicators! I had to rush to get some new Stoptech rotors and pads for my frontsies. Not good driving 80 miles a day on brake pads that looked like this!
But wait! I should have checked this first! There's a crack on the passenger side bleeder screw. This caliper won't do anymore :/
....that was an unhappy week. hahah. Anyway, I sucked it up - and made my way over to Stillen in Costa Mesa, who's an authorized distributor for AP Racing. The benefits of living in So Cal
Everything can be found locally! Really, really great customer service there - and they were a great help in working with me to purchase a replacement. The logo had changed somewhat, and the AP lettering is rounded off now instead of squared, so I walked away with an entirely new set of calipers and new lines. But how am I supposed to replace the AP original aluminum pistons, with the upgraded stainless steel pistons in my old set? (Please keep in mind, I've never done brakes before...so the fact that this tiny little chinese girl has figured this out for herself thus far, means you can do it too! Because my Mech Eng degree be damned, we learned theory - we weren't taught to be mechanics!) Well, bless the internet...turns out all I needed was the right compressed air attachment and some wood sheets to keep the pistons cushioned and balanced to pop out equally. It was annoying since different pistons chose to pop out all the way and remove pressure from the caliper system individually, but it became way easier with each passing caliper.
That's right, these SS pistons are sitting on a Michaels Arts & Crafts receipt. That's where I buy my wood piston cushioning car tools. Where do you buy yours?
Comparison shot.
I stripped the flare not bolts for the hard steel brake line that connects to the flexible brake line on the driver side, and now I'm waiting for Ray at Malloy to save my day with a new hard steel brake line en route....
but for the most part, front calipers, rotors, flexible steel brake lines, brake pads, and brake ducted backing plates are installed!
Just need the driver side replacement hard brake line, duct hose, and to fabricate some fiberglass ducts now.
PS - I also took the time to clean up the trashed caliper....resurfaced it, and repainted it, and now its this really super nifty business card holder that I use at my cubicle
Anybody need a single spare AP caliper? I've got one good one sitting around missing its pair :/
PPS - One car always gets jealous of another. The DD S2000's brakes went out while I was working on the FD's brakes. Talk about last minute reminder on the indicators! I had to rush to get some new Stoptech rotors and pads for my frontsies. Not good driving 80 miles a day on brake pads that looked like this!
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 07-05-10 at 10:15 PM.
07-03-10, 07:49 PM
#85
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(the) Heart(of)Brakes
While I wait for the driver side hard line, there was one more thing to zap out of the way - the master cylinder.
What's the point of upgrading my 4 corners of braking, if the pedal feel blows? So I figured, take it all out in one shot!
I looked into the FEED master cylinder upgrade, and IMO, it was a very overpriced option, for what we can put together here on our own w/o importing anything. The FEED master cylinder upgrade brings the stock 15/16" piston to a 1" piston size...for about $450 bucks. Where as the 929 master cylinder also brings the piston size up to 1", but the cost is closer to around $100-200 depending on whether you go new or remastered. So I went with the 929 cylinder from Ray at Malloy, and bought a new tank to replace my yellowed original one. I followed a couple different writeups I found online, and bought several 12" brake lines that were already inverted flared on both ends. It took a few tries to get the bends in the lines just right....but I finally got them done to my satisfaction. One line needs to be invert flared on both ends, and the second line was invert flared on one end, and used a banjo fitting at the other.
I also stripped and repainted the black bracket, and cleaned everything else around.
Tah-dah! I'm rather proud of how well it turned out.
What's the point of upgrading my 4 corners of braking, if the pedal feel blows? So I figured, take it all out in one shot!
I looked into the FEED master cylinder upgrade, and IMO, it was a very overpriced option, for what we can put together here on our own w/o importing anything. The FEED master cylinder upgrade brings the stock 15/16" piston to a 1" piston size...for about $450 bucks. Where as the 929 master cylinder also brings the piston size up to 1", but the cost is closer to around $100-200 depending on whether you go new or remastered. So I went with the 929 cylinder from Ray at Malloy, and bought a new tank to replace my yellowed original one. I followed a couple different writeups I found online, and bought several 12" brake lines that were already inverted flared on both ends. It took a few tries to get the bends in the lines just right....but I finally got them done to my satisfaction. One line needs to be invert flared on both ends, and the second line was invert flared on one end, and used a banjo fitting at the other.
I also stripped and repainted the black bracket, and cleaned everything else around.
Tah-dah! I'm rather proud of how well it turned out.
07-04-10, 11:46 PM
#87
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That's on sick Build bro, do you have some shots with the wheels back on to see how they filled out with the new brakes? you make me wish I was home working on my FD! haha
07-05-10, 03:08 AM
#89
Carol you make me regret bailing out of my Mech Eng program after only 3 semesters... haha, what can I say, calculus and statics just didn't seem all that interesting! I switched to hotels and while fun, I do wish I could have seen the Mech Eng program through...
Car looks great, you're doing a lot of things I hope to do to one of my CYMs in the near future. I'm subscribing to this thread for inspiration
Car looks great, you're doing a lot of things I hope to do to one of my CYMs in the near future. I'm subscribing to this thread for inspiration
07-06-10, 06:46 PM
#92
Carol you make me regret bailing out of my Mech Eng program after only 3 semesters... haha, what can I say, calculus and statics just didn't seem all that interesting! I switched to hotels and while fun, I do wish I could have seen the Mech Eng program through...
Car looks great, you're doing a lot of things I hope to do to one of my CYMs in the near future. I'm subscribing to this thread for inspiration
Car looks great, you're doing a lot of things I hope to do to one of my CYMs in the near future. I'm subscribing to this thread for inspiration
07-06-10, 09:31 PM
#93
First to go...is the OEM brake dust shield in the rears. They don't clear the RB rotors, and they don't serve any particular function enough for me to modify and keep them. I looked all over the car and in the Mazda factory manual, and there wasn't an indication of how to remove it at all. It looked like a pressed/interference fit of the metal shell.
P.S.
I never had a chance to thank you for that PDF you sent me. Im terribly sorry about that so... Thanks a million for the PDF!
07-20-10, 09:09 PM
#96
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After over 200,000 miles on the same windshield from factory, my visibility (especially when the sun hit), was pathetic. I worried about finding a good piece of replacement glass without trading in my kidney for a mazda oem piece (if they could even source it!). So many glass companies, even PPG, who were sold and became PGW...now manufacture their glass in china. Not that I have anything against the chinese, but a majority of the glass that comes out of there has an overtly strong blue or purple tint at the top, that just doesn't look very factory. Word has it, that a lot of the glass from China ends up pitting easier as well.
But hey, no visibility problems here, with the windshield removed!
My stock glass had a very small, lightly blue tint at the top, but all said and done, I decided to opt for a grey/grey tinted glass instead - the last available anywhere near around me.
Safevue, South African glass.
Funny, I called around to several stores...and everyone, including Safelite were telling me the difficulties of getting anything besides the chinese glass, and tried charging me up the wahzoo for the Safevue...telling me it was the last piece of glass available. But my dad found a local wholesaler, who snatched up that last piece of glass and sold + installed it for me for half the price of the rest. I love living near an industrial area, with some searching...great deals can sometimes be found
I purchased the oem window seal from Ray @ Malloy, and as you can see - perfectly fine replacement, no flaws in the reflection, and only a $140 dent in my pocket for the mobile service to come here and take care of the windshield!
But hey, no visibility problems here, with the windshield removed!
My stock glass had a very small, lightly blue tint at the top, but all said and done, I decided to opt for a grey/grey tinted glass instead - the last available anywhere near around me.
Safevue, South African glass.
Funny, I called around to several stores...and everyone, including Safelite were telling me the difficulties of getting anything besides the chinese glass, and tried charging me up the wahzoo for the Safevue...telling me it was the last piece of glass available. But my dad found a local wholesaler, who snatched up that last piece of glass and sold + installed it for me for half the price of the rest. I love living near an industrial area, with some searching...great deals can sometimes be found
I purchased the oem window seal from Ray @ Malloy, and as you can see - perfectly fine replacement, no flaws in the reflection, and only a $140 dent in my pocket for the mobile service to come here and take care of the windshield!
07-20-10, 09:20 PM
#97
Carol, I need to do this to my car... as my molding is all out of shape and falling apart... I guess I need to call some windshield people and see what they will charge me for a new windshield 
So, what should I ask when calling around? Safevue?
So, what should I ask when calling around? Safevue?
07-20-10, 09:28 PM
#98
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I'm happy with mine, and some people referred to it as Safevue, others just referred to it as the grey on grey option.
Also - I ordered another rear view mirror base from Ray to go along with that new windshield molding, the old one just looked like too much trouble to try and remove.
Next step is 3M clear bra and 3M 70% thermal window tint on everything (including windshield). We did this to the boyfriend's 350z, and you really don't even notice the tint, but its done a phenomenal job keeping heat out.
11-20-10, 05:28 PM
#100
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I haven't had much time to work on the car....but before the afternoon that I left for vacation, I had stopped by Sevenstock and visited the ATS/Carbonetics booth.
Got a kickass deal on a 1.5 way carbon LSD for the rx-7, and a hypersingle carbon blade clutch for the 350z. I'm about 500miles into the break-in period on the 350z clutch, and its awesome. Flywheel's half the weight of the stock, so it revs up faster than a stock s2000 now - particularly noticeable when I start the car up. Clutch bites quick, pedal feel is crisp.
Along with the LSD, I thought it'd be a good time to change out the final drive as well. But...to go from the 4.10 to a 4.30 or a 4.44? I couldn't decide, so I bought one of each.
Can you tell which one's which from a pictures? Pretty tough. hahaha.
So I decided to go with the 4.44, the 4.3 is up for sale in the Classifieds!
Got a kickass deal on a 1.5 way carbon LSD for the rx-7, and a hypersingle carbon blade clutch for the 350z. I'm about 500miles into the break-in period on the 350z clutch, and its awesome. Flywheel's half the weight of the stock, so it revs up faster than a stock s2000 now - particularly noticeable when I start the car up. Clutch bites quick, pedal feel is crisp.
Along with the LSD, I thought it'd be a good time to change out the final drive as well. But...to go from the 4.10 to a 4.30 or a 4.44? I couldn't decide, so I bought one of each.
Can you tell which one's which from a pictures? Pretty tough. hahaha.
So I decided to go with the 4.44, the 4.3 is up for sale in the Classifieds!