Ok so i did a little search and i cant really find out any information on this issue, but would love to try and fix it.

SO i had an issue with my brake pressure for a while. I corner bled the car and then figured out that the master cylinder was bad. I ordered the OEM master cylinder rebuild kit from Mazdatrix and rebuilt the cylinder.

After i rebuilt the cylinder then i reinstalled it on the car (AFTER bench bleeding it), corner bled the car again, and had a lot of great pedal pressure.

UNTIL i let the reservoir get too low, and got air in the system again (FAILLLL)

I also noticed that there was a pressure leak on the bottol of the cylinder where it meets the brake booster. so i took the cylinder off, applied Ultra BLUE RTV to the entire rim of the master cylinder to seal it to the booster.

i then filled the resivior, corner bled AGAIN, and then topped the resivior off. while there was initially great pedal pressure, once i turned the car on and started to driving around, i have NO initial pedal pressure, and have to pump the brakes multiple times to get any sort of braking force. WHAT am i missing here?

ANY and all help would be nessecary, im desperate here.....

 

Check your brake booster line.

I just replaced the rubber hose from the intake manifold to the hard pipe on the firewall on one of mine.

 

brake booster lineis which one? and my rubber hose is completely intact. no leaks at the master cyl anymore. i think i might replace all my bleeder nipples and try to open them all to gravity bleed. then close them and corner bleed once more

 

Ordered new bleeders yesterday, until then anybody else have a clue?

 

Usually when you have to pump your brakes its most likely a bad master cylinder. NO pedal feel means NO press being built by the master cylinder.

NO power assit will still leave the pedal hard, but the vehicle will have one heck of a time stopping.

Frozen brake calipers will usually leave NO pedal feel at all times.

Good luck, hope this helps

 

i just talked to a friend, and my car is still fitted with the ABS setup, yet the ABS has never worked. Looking into the ABS delete with proportioning valve, should delete one more thing off the list.

I understand everything you said ABC, but i just cant see why i would have a bad MC when i just rebuilt it back to stock specs. Thats whats boggling my mind. Hence why someone told me to bleed the ABS unit. since i dont use ABS anyways, i figure it would be smart to look into the delete and proportioning valve