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Thought I would post the current mod list here for reference:
Interior:
-MOMO Cobra steering wheel from JDM Eunos Roadster (installed with Daikei S-601 hub)
-FEED weighted shift ****
-Alpine head unit (soon to be swapped for stock)
-Garage Alpha machined aluminum dead pedal
-Garage Alpha floor mats
Engine:
-DO Engineering titanium catback (similar to early version of FEED Sonic Ti)
-RE-Amemiya 3" downpipe (full stainless w/ RHD-style molded top piece and transmission bracket)
Misc:
-Brake master cylinder brace (IRP Performance; great piece)
Future - probably not, but still fun to think about
-Ganador mirrors -OEM mud guards
-Base front lip
-Lightweight battery
-Metal door panel cups
-Driver's "hoop" plastics painted dark gray
-Exedy lightweight flywheel
-Additional chassis bracing?
The goal is a very fun streetable FD that retains all the character of the original car, just a little bit enhanced in every aspect.
Stock pre-cat: measured at 24 lbs.
RE-Amemiya downpipe: 9 lbs.
Total weight savings: 15 lbs.
...which brings the total weight savings to date to ~46 lbs, subtract a pound or so for the added parts (brake master cylinder brace, shift ****, etc.) and we're at around 45 lbs. saved. The factory curb weight at 2800 lbs. is with the 20 gallon fuel tank full, gas weighs 6 lbs./gallon, so the car should be just at 2695 lbs.total with a half tank of fuel. I really want to explore lightweight batteries as another completely bolt-on, reversible weight reduction mod. Even the Braille AGMs at ~20 lbs. result in a savings of 30 lbs. from the nose of the car, which is massive.
It has been over a week since the downpipe install and I'm really enjoying the more lively feel. Also reveals the true sound of that titanium catback. I don't think I'll ever get tired of the exhaust pop when shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd.
I've noticed a big difference between a bone stock FD and one with a downpipe and catback. I can see why people like to mod these cars. Still nothing crazy planned, but I'm looking forward to what an intake can do (yes, will need a boost controller before doing that).
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I can see why people like to mod these cars. Still nothing crazy planned, but I'm looking forward to what an intake can do (yes, will need a boost controller before doing that).
"No, really, enjoy another hit of the crack... eeerrr, I mean boost... pipe. Trust me, you can stop anytime you'd like... really. No, REALLY! I know. Now excuse me while I go inject myself underneath my toenails to hide the 'track' marks from the wife."
Glad you're enjoying it. I'm getting some slight overboost with just the 99 downpipe and cat back.
I'm guessing I'm getting the same, especially around the 4,500 rpm transition. I'm sure it's sensible, but I never fully understood the reasoning behind the "10 psi only on stock ECU" rule. The dyno comparison for each part added thread seems to suggest that some boost spiking at transition is normal on a stock FD, and that as long as AFRs are safe, that is what matters. I'm also thinking using 93 octane is a little extra safety net beyond the 91 that is standard in many states, and which the stock ECU is mapped for.
Just remember history is littered with blown engines that thought that they would be good. Hell I blew my first FD motor thinking it was doing fine, nothing to worry about Good thing is I learned my lesson and it's been solid.
The biggest enemy here really is the factory boost control. There's no feedback loop or anything, it just GOES. With an aftermarket boost controller you can, many times, open up everything and keep it at 10psi. Worst case it will need a waste gate enlargement.
You can do an aftermarket electronic controller like the Profec-B or a manual boost controller.
@djseven proved over and over again on the zillions of FD's he's owned that if you keep boost solid at 10psi you are good.
Definitely. Even running just a downpipe and catback does not give me a warm fuzzy feeling on the stock ECU. My next project is to install a boost gauge, I have decided on a dual pod that mounts in the center speaker location. After that I'm going to experiment with the manual Hallman-style boost controllers and then finally will be able to (safely) install an intake.
All these mods make me wish I had opted for a lightweight flywheel when the clutch was replaced, I seriously considered it at the time but was not ready to commit to something so difficult to return to stock if I decide to sell. Now I'm committed, and would like the snappier response.
Driver's keyhole shutter repair and factory head unit install coming soon as well...
My driver's door lock cylinder shutter crumbled to pieces a few weeks back, and today I replaced it. I used the guide on the Rob Robinette site, which was super helpful:
I messaged @jza80 to see if he was still selling the shutter kits but he was not. I found a kit at Code Red Performance and it worked fine, but the plastic shutter was not a perfect fit and needed to be shaved a bit with a thin drill bit and file to fit. No big deal, a little bit of trimming and it was perfect. The kit also comes with metal shutters, but that would block the keyhole light, so I elected to use the OEM-style plastic ones instead. Here is the before:
Has anyone here ever replaced the volume **** on the stock FD stereo? OEM replacement ***** are still available (fd01-66-bc1), I purchased one, but it doesn't seem to fit properly on the shaft. It sticks out too much and doesn't go all the way on.
I'm 99% sure my stock radio has the original volume pot, so it should fit.
EDIT: Looking closely at the new **** versus the old broken one, they are not identical. I don't think the new volume ***** fit some of the older head units, there must have been a production change. Shaving down the inner sleeve of the **** to make it fit should work...
My car came with an aftermarket Alpine head unit, which I was never a fan of. I have been on the hunt for a used factory replacement for a while and managed to get one from a forum member here a few months ago. It needed a full recap, and after a long wait from a local factory radio repair shop, I finally got it back and installed today. With the recent refurb, it should be good to go for many more years.
I don't use any of the Bluetooth functions and much prefer the stock look, so swapping back to factory was a no-brainer for me. In addition, there are a number of "quality of life" advantages of the stock unit that may not be so obvious.
1. Amber lighting. This is a functional/safety improvement, as it preserves your night vision better than the blinding bright blue/green of most aftermarket head units.
2. Built-in clock. The FD doesn't have a separate clock, so it is nice to have the clock on the head unit display.
3. The whole interface is a lot more intuitive and easy to use. Most aftermarket units have tiny buttons for the radio presets, and you have to scroll through the menus to change bass/treble. Bass/treble are individual ***** on the stock head unit, and the radio presets are nice big buttons.
Stock head unit looks great. Sad to think so many people tossed them in the bin. I'm planning to upgrade to a modern head unit, but I've got a couple non-bose units boxed up. Glad to hear your repair experience worked out with some patience. What shop did you use?
Yep, it is a shame how many of them got thrown away. I'm a relatively new owner, but I'm sure there was a time when you couldn't give them away.
Regarding the repair, I just used a local shop that does factory radio repairs. Just a one man operation, and they seemed really backed up, so it took a lot longer than anticipated. All good though.
How is the FM reception compared to the Alpine? I learned that the stock units reception was weak compared to other models (including the Bose). I just put my stock radio back into storage and reception is great. Unfortunately the receiver component on the board is different from other models so it is almost impossible scavenge parts.
I have been wanting to experiment with a lightweight battery for a while now, and finally got to install today. I did not want to use an aftermarket battery box, so a piece of high tech wood is used to get the correct height.
The battery I used is the Braille B2317RP, an AGM battery. Braille makes two versions of this battery, the RP (right-side positive) version is needed if mounting in the stock location, something I learned the hard way when I initially ordered the regular version.
This takes another 20 lbs. off the car, and in this case from the most important location, the front.
That brings the total weight savings so far to 65 lbs., all from reversible bolt-ons with no sacrifice in comfort or usability. Mazda's official curb weights for the FD were quite accurate (see DragTimes Youtube video for a stock R1 weighed) and were with the huge 20 gallon fuel tank full. With half a tank of fuel, my total weight should be right at 2675 lbs.
Shift **** impressions: The combination of the slight increase in height and the spherical **** (this especially) has improved the shifting experience greatly. The shifting feels more natural and I find myself concentrating less on shifting and more on driving. It's not quite Honda-like, but I'm satisfied with the shift action of my FD now.
I tend to prefer the long throw shifters of cars like the classic VW Beetle (this setup is a step closer to that), so your mileage may vary.
Shift **** impressions: The combination of the slight increase in height and the spherical **** (this especially) has improved the shifting experience greatly. The shifting feels more natural and I find myself concentrating less on shifting and more on driving. It's not quite Honda-like, but I'm satisfied with the shift action of my FD now.
I tend to prefer the long throw shifters of cars like the classic VW Beetle (this setup is a step closer to that), so your mileage may vary.
its a small thing, but when its right its soo much better
Hope everyone is having a good Memorial Day weekend. I installed a boost gauge today, which will allow me to monitor boost levels in preparation for modifying the stock airbox and upsizing the restrictor pills to keep the boost in check. I'm going with a very simple combination of the gauge and pills for the boost control on this car as it is 100% reversible and keeps the interior free of extra screens.
Note: the pod still needs to be angled toward the driver in the pic, and a gauge blank will be installed in the left position shortly (I went for the dual pod in case an AFR gauge is needed in the future). I'm very happy with the final result. The center speaker is a great location for extra gauges since the pod clips right into the speaker grille tabs and doesn't obstruct the driver's vision. I used this guide, which was very helpful: Boost and Water Temp Gauge Install
It fit well and I'm very happy with it overall. It has the clips at the bottom so it slots right into the center speaker mount. Many of the 3D-printed gauge pods available online don't have the base and need to be taped in. My only minor complaint is that I ordered what they call the '94 textured finish, but it looks like the example in their pics - IMO nothing like the textured finish of the dash. At the end of the day it looks fine, but I wouldn't have spent the extra $30 on the textured finish if I had known that it looks so different.
Looking good man, +1 for the AFR gauge to compliment your boost one. Looks like your bezel fits pretty snug. I ended up getting a 3D printed one and like you said, it took some modifying to fit perfect. That autometer black face boost gauge looks pretty close to stock, I like it.
Good thing is I learned my lesson and it's been solid.
