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Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s are exactly what I'm going to get. I had them on my Z32 300ZX and was a big fan. They do have a pretty stiff sidewall though, so quite sporty feeling.
The previous version of those, the Firehawk Wide Oval Indy 500, had a stiffer sidewall so rode a bit harder. The latest one's sidewalls are softer, but the asymmetric design and improved tread compound allow more grip while not losing responsiveness. The new tires are also 2 lb each lighter than the older ones.
So, IMO, the ones available now are a significant improvement over the previous version.
Congratulations - we have twins ! But I'm at 16k miles, lol.
I too, was in search of a similar car and was able to find it about 2 years ago. Bone stock, California kept, mint garage queen.
I had the oil, trans, diff, and brake fluids, brake lines, fuel filter, radiator, and AST done. Also a nice set of SBG HID projectors,
HKS dowpipe, and XPEL PPF. Now shes perfect.
Question: how real is the low mileage dilemma for you ? While these examples are holy grails, I wouldn't mind a mid mileage example
that I could drive carefree without all the stress...
Congratulations - we have twins ! But I'm at 16k miles, lol.
I too, was in search of a similar car and was able to find it about 2 years ago. Bone stock, California kept, mint garage queen.
I had the oil, trans, diff, and brake fluids, brake lines, fuel filter, radiator, and AST done. Also a nice set of SBG HID projectors,
HKS dowpipe, and XPEL PPF. Now shes perfect.
Question: how real is the low mileage dilemma for you ? While these examples are holy grails, I wouldn't mind a mid mileage example
that I could drive carefree without all the stress...
16k miles? Totaled. :p So cool to hear there is another low mileage VR R1 out there!
The low mileage dilemma is very real. ~15k miles is ridiculously low and gives the car value as a novelty above what normal value a clean stock FD already has. Owning a super low mileage museum piece has its own separate appeal, and that will be gone if you drive it too much, not to mention the diminished dollar value. I suppose it comes down to whether you value the car more as a rare object to lust over and fetishize, or more as a driving machine. The rational choice is obviously to value it as a driving machine, but as a long-time admirer of the FD, it is hard not to want to preserve the car, especially considering how rare unmolested examples are. Since I'm planning on keeping the car forever, the appeal of low mileage to me is more in the novelty aspect and preserving a classic than in the financial upside.
Having a mid-mileage example to use while the low-mileage car stays in the garage would be the best of both worlds, and I have considered it, but I know I don't have the resources or desire to maintain two FDs. Ultimately, I bought this car to drive it and that is what I intend to do. I was actually hoping to find a slightly rougher example for the reasons discussed, but this one is the one that came up. I figured I would probably be saving this one even if I did drive it, since at least I wouldn't be modifying the hell out of it. It is still a weekend car though, so mileage will likely accumulate quite slowly. As of now the mileage is not accumulating at all because I'm still searching for a set of stock wheels so I can replace these damn original tires, haha. If anyone has a set, please let me know.
Imaginethat, I do have a technical question for you since your car is also a low mileage '93. My doors require a good slam to close. They seem to take more force than some FDs I have seen with higher mileage, and I'm wondering if it might be the fresher low mileage door seals combined with the inherent tight door seal design of the '93, which I believe they changed for later model years. So my question is whether your doors also need to be slammed to close (I usually crack open a window, which makes closing them easier) as well, or whether they operate more normally.
Congrats on your FD! What a great find and I'm sure and even better feeling to finally get your hands on one. I remember each FD purchase, even the rollers, and I'm always just as excited to bring them home.
16k miles? Totaled. :p So cool to hear there is another low mileage VR R1 out there!
The low mileage dilemma is very real. ~15k miles is ridiculously low and gives the car value as a novelty above what normal value a clean stock FD already has. Owning a super low mileage museum piece has its own separate appeal, and that will be gone if you drive it too much, not to mention the diminished dollar value. I suppose it comes down to whether you value the car more as a rare object to lust over and fetishize, or more as a driving machine. The rational choice is obviously to value it as a driving machine, but as a long-time admirer of the FD, it is hard not to want to preserve the car, especially considering how rare unmolested examples are. Since I'm planning on keeping the car forever, the appeal of low mileage to me is more in the novelty aspect and preserving a classic than in the financial upside.
Having a mid-mileage example to use while the low-mileage car stays in the garage would be the best of both worlds, and I have considered it, but I know I don't have the resources or desire to maintain two FDs. Ultimately, I bought this car to drive it and that is what I intend to do. I was actually hoping to find a slightly rougher example for the reasons discussed, but this one is the one that came up. I figured I would probably be saving this one even if I did drive it, since at least I wouldn't be modifying the hell out of it. It is still a weekend car though, so mileage will likely accumulate quite slowly. As of now the mileage is not accumulating at all because I'm still searching for a set of stock wheels so I can replace these damn original tires, haha. If anyone has a set, please let me know.
Imaginethat, I do have a technical question for you since your car is also a low mileage '93. My doors require a good slam to close. They seem to take more force than some FDs I have seen with higher mileage, and I'm wondering if it might be the fresher low mileage door seals combined with the inherent tight door seal design of the '93, which I believe they changed for later model years. So my question is whether your doors also need to be slammed to close (I usually crack open a window, which makes closing them easier) as well, or whether they operate more normally.
Well said, I pretty much agree with you on all points.
In regards to the doors: I don't have any other FD experience to compare it too but I suppose they require a bit of force to close given how small and light they are.
Well said, I pretty much agree with you on all points.
In regards to the doors: I don't have any other FD experience to compare it too but I suppose they require a bit of force to close given how small and light they are.
The main thing that makes the doors hard to close is that they are large and light compared to the vehicle interior volume. When you shut them, unless a window or other is open, compression of the trapped air makes it difficult. A window open 1/2" makes a huge difference.
Finally was able to take some additional photos today. Still haven't driven the car much since I'm waiting on stock wheels so I can replace the tires. I have a couple of leads on local sets, hopefully will be picking up some next weekend. On to the pics!
FCs and FDs both have a gorgeous rear 3/4 view IMO
These cars look so nice in stock or near-stock form.
Eternal flame logo = perfect 90s minimalism. These seem to be NLA compared to the Efini emblems, though I haven't asked Ray Crowe about them.
Interior is almost too nice to sit in... as you would expect with 14k miles.
Zero bolster wear on R1 driver's seat.
Early dashboard design without passenger airbag. The previous owner had rubber mats protecting the perfect OEM floor mats. Talk about OCD...
The stock USDM airbag steering wheel gets a bad rap, but it was one of the world's first three-spoke airbag steering wheels - most at this time were huge ugly four-spoke things (see Toyota Supra, Nissan 300ZX). I like it and have no plans to swap it.
Stock short-throw shifter (yes, the stock shifter is a short-throw) with stock ergonomic ****.
There is some scratching on the original '93 interior plastics, but not worth disassembling to fix. 90s plastic interiors rarely go back together as well as they did originally.
Only early models (1993-1995) had an aluminum spare wheel, which was manufactured by Enkei. Later models were downgraded to heavier steel as a cost saving measure.
Original jacking tools including OEM wheel lock key
I believe the cooling system recall has been performed as the AST cap is the updated .9 bar version.
Brake hose recall has also been performed according to the records.
Nice!
Door hard slam is normal, I crack open a window or the moonroof (touring) and it's easier to close.
For reliability I'd just get a downpipe with ceramic coating or thermo wrap. That alone will give you a small power boost but significant reduction in underhood temps, helping to maintain the original plastic/rubber/hoses/wires in new condition.
(continued)
Only early models (1993-1995) had an aluminum spare wheel, which was manufactured by Enkei. Later models were downgraded to heavier steel as a cost saving measure.
Later models that had factory 16" wheels came with a 16" steel spare. Any later models that had the larger brakes / wheels (RS, RZ models) retained the aluminium spare, as they were 17", not 16", so clear the bigger brakes.
Some things have happened since the last update, the most recent of which was I FINALLY replaced the old dried up ORIGINAL tires. The big hold up here was sourcing a set of OEM wheels, but I eventually found a set from a forum member here for a very reasonable price (thanks Venom-X1!) They had been repainted black, so I had them redone to the OEM finish at a local wheel refinishing place. I could have had my original chrome wheels refinished, but it would have cost more to strip the chrome than just buying a whole second set of wheels. I also like the idea of storing the original wheels/tires for originality/mileage proof purposes. In case anyone is curious, my original wheels were the reinforced type, so the unreinforced = 1993 and reinforced = 1994 adage definitely does not hold true, if it ever did.
After installing the refinished stock wheels (lightweight "PFD" stamped version), I'm REALLY happy with the new look. The painted silver wheels are more visible in the wheel wells than the chrome (as I thought they would be) and the car now has a more muscular look. I briefly considered trying to source a set of my preferred aftermarket wheels (forged Desmond Regamaster in 17"), but those would be way more expensive, and it is neat to have a stock wheel/tire setup to see how the car drove when it was new. After installing them, I'm happy with the stock look... they actually look way more aggressive than I thought they would.
I ended up going with Continental ExtremeContact Sport tires since they are supposed to be slightly softer than the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s, and I'm trying to tame the R1 suspension. The first thing I noticed on the road is how much quieter they are than the old dried up Bridgestones. Handling wise, wow, the car actually has grip! It is clear that the car needs an alignment, as the on-center steering feel is heavier than it is supposed to be, and turn-in is a bit dull. I can't wait to get an alignment (Pettit street specs), as this should really dial-in the effortless handling feel that I know this car has.
OEM wheels after refinishing. I was less than satisfied with the job the shop did on the powdercoat. The finish was uneven and full of dust nibs/orange peel. The shop offered to redo them after I pointed out the issues, but I'm not willing to wait another few weeks, and I'm already over dealing with shoddy work (more on that later... detailing related), so they ended up giving me a partial refund instead. You can't really see any of the blemishes from a standing distance, and I'm happy with it for now.
View of back showing thinner spokes of the unreinforced, lightweight wheels. It is a small difference in weight, but I specifically wanted the lightweight wheels, if nothing else than for the novelty aspect of them being some of the lightest wheels ever fitted to a production car.
Jacking the car up was a nervewracking experience. The pinch welds appear they will bend just by looking at them, so I didn't even try to place the jack stands there. In the end, I put a stand and a wood block at each front chassis leg, and the rear stands on the subframe where the lower control arm mounts.
New wheels/tires fitted. Also did a brake fluid flush for good measure. Next on the list is an alignment (Pettit street alignment specs... I'm hoping for sharper turn-in, feels a little dead with the current settings.) I also need to do a proper coolant flush, inspect the cooling system hoses for leaks (I'm losing coolant), and clean the engine grounds, which will hopefully eliminate the slight 3k-rpm hesitation that occurs when the car is cold. Merry Christmas everyone!
Coolant system pressure test the cooling system. I've posted about it many times before including a recommendation on a good tester if you wish to buy one rather than 'rent' from the local auto parts store.
You can pressure test the fuel system too by bridging ground and fuel pump with a paper clip or wire in the diagnostics box iirc....
An old car is not truly yours until it leaves you stranded (well, almost). I brought the FD to a family gathering just before Christmas - because why not? Of course, just before I go to leave (and with a small crowd watching my sweet new ride), I go to start the car and... NOTHING. Pretty embarrassing. My friend's stepdad is very handy and his first thought was that the battery was dead, so we got the jumper cables out and hooked them up, both of us fully confident that it would fire right up. Except it didn't! Lights bright, just nothing happened when turning the key.
After fiddling with the factory alarm a bit (thinking the immobilizer had been triggered), I eventually noticed when inspecting the fuse box in the driver's footwell that the rubber clutch pedal switch stopper was missing. Sure enough, I depressed the switch manually while turning the key, and she fired right to life. The original 28 year old rubber stopper had disintegrated. Glad it didn't require a tow.
The replacement grommet came in today:
The replacement part is actually Nissan part #46584-S0100. As far as I know, OEM replacements are no longer available from Mazda, and this is considered the next best replacement. Here is a pic of the car from that day:
This is a bit off topic, but if anyone wants to make their FD feel like a Miata, go drive a Viper for a day. This was my Turo rental for the past 24 hours, and it is pure brutality and ignorance in the best possible way. However, going straight from the Viper back to the FD only makes me appreciate the FD even more. Compared to the Viper, the FD feels like a Miata that you can toss around without worrying about it biting you. Everything from the visibility to the power delivery to the size makes it feel FAR more approachable in street driving. The Viper has massive power and massive brakes, but the FD (stock FD... I know a modded one can be bonkers like the Viper) just has a beautiful delicacy to the controls and handling balance to it. It is ironic because the FD feels far more like the Viper in comparison to my '94 Integra, but back-to-back with the Viper, it really feels like a different car.
2006 Viper SRT-10 Coupe 8.3-liter V10 - 510 horsepower. The exhaust exiting 2' from your left ear is something to behold.
I'm sure you guys are sick of hearing me gush about this thing, but this car handles very well.
I took it on some local curvy roads for the first time and couldn't stop smiling. Really lovely handling balance, the suspension telegraphs what the car is doing really well, you can feel the outside rear tire just clawing the pavement when you huck it in, which gives a lot of confidence... really cool.
I'm sure you guys are sick of hearing me gush about this thing, but this car handles very well.
I took it on some local curvy roads for the first time and couldn't stop smiling. Really lovely handling balance, the suspension telegraphs what the car is doing really well, you can feel the outside rear tire just clawing the pavement when you huck it in, which gives a lot of confidence... really cool.
That's a great observation. I had the same experience and it is one of my favorite things about the car. The confidence gained by being able to feel what the chassis is doing and knowing that it will do nearly anything you tell it to do is priceless! I've driven some powerful italian stuff, but nothing holds a candle to the seven.
Another mini-update: I spent a good portion of Saturday cleaning all the factory grounds (main engine ground, battery, intake manifold, and exhaust), and it all but eliminated the 3k-rpm hesitation that was there before. Big improvement. Here is the exhaust ground after cleaning:
Those stock ground straps are wimpy!
Some worse news (or better, depending on how you look at it), I did a quick check for coolant leaks when the car was in the air and didn't see any... was kind of hoping one would be obvious, since it seems I am still losing coolant. Properly diagnosing the coolant issue is on the to-do list.
Next thing on the list is to treat the cooling system with a chemical flush. Nothing fancy, Prestone super flush should work fine. The idea is to dissolve all the build up and scale that accumulates over the years. I have used this on other older cars and it makes a huge difference in the ability of the cooling system to work effectively. My electric fans will trigger when the car is idling (even in cool weather), which I do not like at all. A few more (better) pics with the OEM-finish wheels:
I did a quick check for coolant leaks when the car was in the air and didn't see any... was kind of hoping one would be obvious, since it seems I am still losing coolant. Properly diagnosing the coolant issue is on the to-do list.
Next thing on the list is to treat the cooling system with a chemical flush. Nothing fancy, Prestone super flush should work fine. The idea is to dissolve all the build up and scale that accumulates over the years. I have used this on other older cars and it makes a huge difference in the ability of the cooling system to work effectively. My electric fans will trigger when the car is idling (even in cool weather), which I do not like at all.
IIRC, HOAT and similar long life coolants (mentioned in the link in the above post) have an issue with corrosion if the cooling system is not totally air-free. The FD system is not designed like most post-2000 cars to consistently evacuate ALL air from the system. Traditional green ethylene-glycol coolant, however, works well in older systems like the FD and my '74 Chevy van since it can protect the system from corrosion even in the presence of some air.
Therefore, IMO, one should not use the modern long-life coolants in an FD.
11-26-21, 10:21 AM
