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Thanks i will do that always looking for place with more info.
Howeverits too late to turn back on removing the power steering, i have read allot of different points of views on this mod and i was keen to try it, if its no good i will just reinstate it but you got to try new things to know what's best.
Just to clarify im not just removing the pump i am doing a complete removal.
Originally Posted by wjp005
Hi,
Suggest you do two things:
1. Head over and join up to FDRX7.com - (Become verified too). I am a member there and it will put you in touch with a wealth of information and experts on the FD in Australia. Will also point you in the right direction for parts, etc.
2. Speak to a few more people before you de-power your rack. I know more than a few people who have done this to their FDs, only to re-instate as they lost alot of feel and didn't like the depowered rack at all.
Strongly suggest you leave the P/S in, even if you are doing the full de-powering (not just removing the pump). Or at the very least, keep everything so you can put back later if desired.
Yes there are a few people who like it but in my personal experience, I know many, many more people who disliked it.
Can I ask why you're doing it? There's nothing wrong with steering feel with the OE setup.
If you're planning a V mount and the stock cooler and lines are an issue, there are ways around this. I for example have a Jag XJ cooler with rubber lines as my car has a large custom V mount for the track.
Like I said, I can put you in touch with 5 Aussie guys who have tried the whole depower thing, then hated it. Their cars vary from full street to full track. I have a track only FD and I've kept all PS.
You see, it's not just about the steering being "heavy" without powersteering. There are other consequences of depowering. I have never driven an FD that has been fully depowered but some of the descriptive terms I've heard from those who have done this are: "Horrible", "No linear feel", "Car felt unpredictable"
Remember that Mazda engineers spent a lot of time and money designing the suspension in these cars - WITH powersteering. For a reason. Australia's fastest time attack FD still has the PS.
Anyway, if you've made up your mind then good luck to you but I fear you will regret it and will end up putting everything back on. You can't say you weren't warned...
FDRX7 has lots of Aussies who know the marque VERY well and well worth your while joining up.
^ Your making me change my mind now, I got all the bits so nothing to stop me from putting back in? i will have a think about it before i commit any further.
I removed the PS pump, did the full depowered (opened up and seals removed) hated it ! with 245's on the front was crap !
I then didnt want to put the PS pump back in the engine bay as it a "ugly ******"
So I went the EHPS setup from a MR2 and went back to PS. Very happy with it so far, but hant gone past 210km yet so dont know if its a bit gitty at high speed yet. (as its 100% on)
I'd also recommend leaving the PS alone. I drove a Series 7 once that had the PS removed (as some people on forums love to encourage, for some odd reasons...) and it was bloody terrible. Aside from the heavy steering, the steering input correction times are reduced, because it takes more effort to turn, which slows your reactions down, and makes the car hairy and unpredictable when going fast, and less responsive to quick maneuvers.
I dont know where all the "disconnect your power steering!" stuff comes from, or who popularized it, but I would never do it. Save your money, time and effort for another part of the car more worthwhile
*I feel the same about the ABS system too. Its there on Porsches & Ferraris, and its designed to stop lockup. That is a good thing in racing. Anyone who thinks they can outbrake ABS is either a Micheal Schumacher-wannabe, or Micheal Schumacher :p
I have been putting off posting on here out of embarrassment, I started the project with such enthusiasm but life unfortunately got in the way, a combination of moving home, doing FIFO at the mines my priorties had to change.
Enough with excuses, I have been doing some odd bits here and there for the past month and honestly feel in only a couple of months away from finishing. I'm in the home straight.
Ok first picture is of the vacuum lines I will be running based on a thread I found on the forum.
Second picture is of the LIM, just to be sure are items 'A' and 'B' just for vacuum sensing, correct?
Another question so I'm educated, why are there so many vacuum take off points? Why aren't they just all Tee'd off from the same point on a manifold?
Thanks.
A and B are will be vacuum only out of boost. Do not T into the boost gauge for your controller. Seperate dedicated lines for things that really matter.
the reason they are kept individual is so not to dilute the vacuum signal. things like fpr and map sensor should have there own source as they are crucial. you could how ever share a source for a gauge and something else non critical. I try to just to give everything there own source
the reason they are kept individual is so not to dilute the vacuum signal. things like fpr and map sensor should have there own source as they are crucial. you could how ever share a source for a gauge and something else non critical. I try to just to give everything there own source
Thanks guys, love learning the reason behind why things are done, with this in mind I should change how the FPR and BOV are from the same source, would you recommend taking the FPR from near the throttle, as marked in the picture below?
Pictures on the first page seem to indicate a S8 water pump (integral filler) in a S6 (going by the abs) - can see the water temp sender....they don't come drilled for the fan switch. Are you talking about something else?
You might consider using something larger than 3mm line for the boost control valve, even stock twin hardlines are bigger @ 6mm once past the solenoids. Depending on the BOV position, there's probably an argument for bigger there too.
Pictures on the first page seem to indicate a S8 water pump (integral filler) in a S6 (going by the abs) - can see the water temp sender....they don't come drilled for the fan switch. Are you talking about something else?
You might consider using something larger than 3mm line for the boost control valve, even stock twin hardlines are bigger @ 6mm once past the solenoids. Depending on the BOV position, there's probably an argument for bigger there too.
Sounds like you know more about my car than me, it is an S6 but PO changed a lot on this car.
For:
FPR vacuum I'm using 4mm
BOV vacuum 4mm
To Adaptronic ECU 4mm
Wastegates 6mm
Front sensor is water level. I'd expect the adaptronic doesn't require the bottom fan switch.
If I'm getting that correct, PO ran the car without a temp sensor somehow - or installed elsewhere in the system - seems a touch eccentric, unless running an IDA.
Front sensor is water level. I'd expect the adaptronic doesn't require the bottom fan switch.
If I'm getting that correct, PO ran the car without a temp sensor somehow - or installed elsewhere in the system - seems a touch eccentric, unless running an IDA.
After closer inspection the water temp sensor has literally crumbled away flush, just ordered a replacement.
It's never a ending story of finding bad news haha
Slowly but surely getting there, it's a lot harder than I first thought and I have some much respect for all the other guys out there doing these mods.
I just want to say everything I have purchased to date has been of great quality and the advice and help from the vendors has been great.
04-11-13, 07:11 AM
