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You've probably covered this already before, but what weight oil are you using, and have you changed recently?
My buddy that helped build my current engine back in 2014 used to build engines for Tripoint and he suggested using 20W50 with Lucas additive. I used to use 10W30, but I switched based on his recommendation. The catch can I'm using is one of Adam Griffith's that has venting on both sides of the engine.
In 2018 I switched to 0W40 based on another friend's recommendation after he'd done a lot of research. I drove to SevenStock right after that with no issues, but on my way back to Colorado, I started having the same issue you had. The catch can would fill up with mostly fuel but some oil after only an hour or two of driving and then spray all over the engine. Prior to that, I would drain the catch can only at oil changes and I'd get maybe a drop of water. The oil was the only thing I changed before that trip. Once I changed back to 20W50 and Lucas oil additive, the problem instantly went away, for the most part. Now I get more than a drop of water at each oil change, but it's only a few drops of fuel and not filling up after an hour of driving. Not perfect, but much better than it was.
I pulled off my dual wastegates since I had the turbo off to replace the gasket and studs for the turbo manifold. I opened up my WGs and there was a 14psi spring in one and a 7psi spring in the other. I'm so upset with myself right now. The original crappy manifold that was on the car when I got it had a single WG and I put a 10psi spring in. When I got the turblown setup with dual, I pulled the 10 out and put a 7 in. I can't recall for sure but I wonder if I stupidly assumed that from the factory, the 2nd WG I bought came with a 7psi spring loaded and not a 14.
I was chatting with @Howard Coleman and he said this issue would have affected my AFRs as the one with the heavy spring would be lean and the one with lighter spring would be rich. Since I only run a single O2 sensor, my ECU would only ever see the aggregate. He said this affected my temps for each rotor.
My plan is to put the car back together with 7psi springs and then run a compression test post track day to see where I am. The good thing is the the car didnt blow up at the track and it started both hot and cold but I noticed my compression numbers that I took post dyno (but before track) were trending down. I'm hoping this is where Nelson's conservative timing is going help. Maybe this will stop the bleeding and if this motor lasts me a few years, Ill call it win...
I just re-read the spring chart and I was in fact using the right spring. Im still an idiot though. This is what I get for opening a chart on my iphone and not scrolling all the way over.
Sometimes sharing our own moments of dullness helps
I had ordered the new AEM V3 water injection nozzle. Received it, quickly installed it. Things starting acting weird, power was down, noticed water/meth was not consistently working. Later I find out the internal check valve was completely missing, I had just installed the case.
Oof, it's those easy things that you can overlook but can have catastrophic consequences that keep me up at night
I am on this side of install and running with an IWG75 that came with a 14psi spring installed. Back and forth with Turbosmart AU and Shawn on figuring out what springs I actually received (listing showed three but I received four with no idea which was what)
Nothing available as a reference guide from TS, so had to make my own
Similar to you Armen with the AEM V3 nozzle - I took mine apart and swapped the pintle
I had also misunderstood the compounding of tender springs on a three-way. Nothing I had previously considered, but now I know!
Glad you're back at it
Last edited by ZumSpeedRX-7; Jul 17, 2023 at 01:09 PM.
Been a bit since I've updated this thread but happy to say I think the FD is finally dialed in. I was able to vent the passenger side of the block to my catch can so now I shouldn't have any more issues with pressure. I also replaced the tubro to manifold gasket with that kit @Howard Coleman recommended. I also bought a smoke tester from Amazon and smoke my exhaust and found another leak with on my waste gate vBand clamps and at my turbo to manifold vBand. I replaced them both and confirmed ZERO leaking. I thought my turbo was spooling up pretty well but man does it spool up now!
I also was able to find another AC compressor courtsey of @Molotovman . It was def a little rough from storage but I got it cleaned up and flushed out and now I have nice cold AC...just in time for the Fall/Winter
For the past month or so its just been turn the key and drive. I got another track weekend coming up in 2 weeks so that will be the last and final test of this build.
Oh -- also found a used set of QuickJacks on a local FB track group. Yeh...I should have gotten them YEARS ago. Worth every penny even at full price for working on a car.
Actually, I can. It's $67,451.35 (not including tools I've had to buy). I've driven just under 8k miles so we'll round to 8k. Asusming 1 smile equals 1 dollar and 1 smile per mile, we're looking at $8.43 per smile per mile
pretty good argument that he’d have been way ahead with a K24 turbo swap
quickly ducks and runs …
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ain’t that the truth.
let’s go with K20 swap except swapped Porsche for Honda Civic Type R.
This car is sublime. I can’t get over that it’s based on a Civic. It’s a masterpiece of engineering. Shuttle the kids during the week, track/mountain beast on weekends. Still love the FD -- it's raw and rowdy.
Nice pick up dude! Sick Daily!
I love driving my buddy’s 2017 type R. I’m sure this thing is incredible . I feel like a race car driver every time I down shift and it rev matches for me. Hahaha
I may sell an FD and get something like this one day, I need more parking
Thanks! It is a phenomenal car, especially for the money. They jury is out for me on auto rev matching. It's convenient but I'm so used to driving the FD that I naturally still blip the throttle sometimes which throws the whole thing off. The transmission is easily one of the best, if not the best, manuals I've ever driven. I didn't mind the FD's 5 speed but now I hate it. Don't event get me going on the factory Recaro's. So comfy yet so supportive.
Took the FD to VIR last weekend for another track day weekend and I'm happy to report that nothing went boom! The car did very well. I had one electric gremlin I was chasing down on Day 1 and thanks to the log data, I discovered that my wire to the oil temp/pressure sensor was pinched between the TB and the Intake Elbow. Aside from that, the car did great. I was however dumping 2/3 cup full of oil out of my catch can after each session. Emptying my catch can def. was a pain in the *** as I had to unscrew it each time as there wasn't easy access to the drain plug based on where I could fit it.
I think part of my issue could be the "shorty" oil filler neck that vents to my catch can. I think I need a longer one like the IRP one that has a baffle as built in. My catch can has two -10AN ports. One port feeds from the oil filler neck and the other feeds from the oil return line port on the passenger side of the block. The catch can has a breather on top to vent to atmosphere.
I also set my personal best time in the FD of 2:20.67 on the full course layout which is about 3 seconds off my overall personal best I set in my Porsche. I know I can get even more time but I need some bigger ***** to go faster in some sections and brake later in others. The lack of a half roll bar or any air bags def. lingers in the back of my mind...
a larger hose/piping size is better for lowering velocity and the oil not being carried as easily in addition to an even larger baffle section to again slow the flow.
i.e. 16AN or larger
Franklin in NZ sells a shorty 16AN fill neck adapter, I’m sure there are others.
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