When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The threads I've made on so many topics are now buried in search results. When in doubt, go to advanced search and search for threads I've started across all subforums on this, and I may have covered part of your question.
The threads I've made on so many topics are now buried in search results. When in doubt, go to advanced search and search for threads I've started across all subforums on this, and I may have covered part of your question.
Odyssey battery looks solid! Any issues cranking extra electronics on a cold start up with that thing? Did you just cut your old toe down to size? Is that attached to the frame or just the bins?
Odyssey battery looks solid! Any issues cranking extra electronics on a cold start up with that thing? Did you just cut your old toe down to size? Is that attached to the frame or just the bins?
Solid build thread.
-milly
I haven’t started my car a whole lot since I’m still waiting on the flange to get welded on but the few times I did crank it, it started up with zero issues with the PC925. As for the tie towns, they are J-hooks. I just drilled a hole in the bottom of the bin to thread them through. Since the bottom of the J is bigger than the hole, the J hooks don’t come out. Attaching to the frame would certainly be ideal but it would have been a real pain in the ***. This thing isn’t going anywhere and if I *knock on wood* ever got into an accident where the force caused the battery to split/break the plastic, I’m pretty sure the battery is the least of my worries.
I haven’t started my car a whole lot since I’m still waiting on the flange to get welded on but the few times I did crank it, it started up with zero issues with the PC925. As for the tie towns, they are J-hooks. I just drilled a hole in the bottom of the bin to thread them through. Since the bottom of the J is bigger than the hole, the J hooks don’t come out. Attaching to the frame would certainly be ideal but it would have been a real pain in the ***. This thing isn’t going anywhere and if I *knock on wood* ever got into an accident where the force caused the battery to split/break the plastic, I’m pretty sure the battery is the least of my worries.
Awesome. May be looking at that route soon. Going to add aftermarket sound system, as long as it can crank with added electronics (including engine bay), would like to go that route without hacking the bins to pieces. Did you run a longer solid ground to a hard point or just ground near the bins for the negative?
Awesome. May be looking at that route soon. Going to add aftermarket sound system, as long as it can crank with added electronics (including engine bay), would like to go that route without hacking the bins to pieces. Did you run a longer solid ground to a hard point or just ground near the bins for the negative?
-milly
Sorry for the delay. I ran it to the solid ground point right behind the rear bins in the trunk. There was a plugged hole that @Molotovman told me about that is for the seatbelt attachments for cars that had rear seats. I pulled the plug, wire brushed off the paint and grounded it there.
After lots of time, work, and money, I FINALLY got her put back together yesterday. I fired her up, went for a drive, and had a nice big grin of satisfaction and accomplishment that 1. It didn't combust into flames, 2. It didn't stall or just randomly shut off, and 3. Just felt good!
I found a local shop to tig weld the BOV flange on. It cost me like $140 for about 2.5 hours of labor (supposedly). They said to do it right, it took time and careful prep given how aluminum does under heat and the size of the Synapse BOV flange. Speaking of Synapse, I never got a support response from them but I got it wired up and I gotta say, I LOVE the BOV. It sounds great venting to atmosphere and I get ZERO flutter from my turbo now. Very happy with the product. Support however is ****.
I was driving today and it was about 65f degrees out. My air intake temps were at about 80f and my water temp was at 167f. I guess we'll see how it does in the hot humid NC summer, but I like what I see so far. The car idled stable and my Wideband would read right around 14 at cruising and 11-12 when on boost. Overall, with the Vmount and new suspension, the car feels better than it ever has.
I only have a few minor things left: Wire up the solenoid to the PFC since I fried my AVC-R, install a manual boost gauge (tired of looking at the Japanese metric on PFC), get a bigger air filter for my turbo, and get the RX8 AC condenser (new on Rockauto.com for $35!) installed and some custom lines made for some functioning AC. Then off to the dyno for a good tune and I should be golden (cross fingers) for DGRR 2020 at the end of April. At some point, I'll also fix/upgrade the aftermarket stereo so I have some tunes but the sound of my engine, exhaust, and BOV is music to my ears right now!
Now if only the damn OEM nose would go back on so I could get rid of this Veilside nose and sell off this body kit...
Eh... you need a good friend that welds haha. $140 isn't crazy, and you pay for someone's years of experience and skill. But that was probably like 30 minutes of work.
Excellent progress dude! Sucks your welder charged you that much for a $50 tig job, but it is what it is. Hard to find a welding shop that will mess with small jobs like that.
I agree, I'd shop around for another welder long term. There's a small local shop that I've had weld stuff up for me, either plugging a hole or welding a flange on or something. Don't think I've ever spent more than $40. But, that said, some aluminum tubing can be a pain to weld to, that piping is anodized so that can be a little tricky.
Congrats on your rebuild journey to date; including, successful restart & first drive in awhile!
Question re: your A/C system. What refrigerant are you planning to use once the RX8 condenser and new lines are installed?
I had already converted my fittings over to R134A. I had R134 running last year and even in the humid NC summers, that AC was fine for me. Was it like polar ice cold? No. Was it warm or not cold? No.
You can probably get your IATs down even further if you block the v-mount opening on the passenger side. Even better would be to plumb your intake into that so it's getting fresh air
@TomU - yeh. the kit came with a cover for that area, but I'm waiting to fit a bigger Air filter over that area and also waiting until I get my AC condenser fitted and working. As for the solenoid, I'm going to re-use the one I have which was part of the AVCR kit. It looks like the same one in the kit. I'm also going to add a turbo blanket as well.
OK. I need some help here. I followed an old post by @arghx where @Banzai-Racing said I could connect the solenoid to the Turbo Precontrol connector. I confirmed I had the OEM connector still on my harness (B1-37 with yellow/blue and black/white wires) per the Wiring FSM. I connected my solenoid to a battery and it pops/clicks. I plugged a test light into the 12V wire of the OEM precontrol connector and it lit up so I know I’ve got power. I connected the two since the Apexi solenoid uses the same connector as OEM so no messing with wiring to my PFC harness. I then plumbed as so: Vacuum nipple on UIM connected to COM port on Solenoid and then NC port connected to the the bottom port of my Turbosmart WG which currently has a 7psi spring in it. I left NO port open. My target boost is 14psi or maybe a little under so i started with .90 kg/cm^2 which is 12.8psi.
I went into the PFC settings with my Datalogit and turned Sequential Off and left turbo transition times alone (Per Banzai Racing’s post) and then I initially set my boost to .90 and dusty cycle to 46%. First run, full throttle 3rd gear, hit about 1.1 before I blew a coupler off my intercooler piping. Still, I over shot it. Tightened the coupler, adjusted to .85 and 80%. I hit 1.09 and the fuel cut. 3rd run, changed to .90 and 80% and hit the fuel cut again at like 1.25. That was all I had time for tonight.
So...my guess is that my solenoid isnt working properly? The only thng I didn’t test was whether or not there was a good ground on the OEM connector but let’s assume there is, where do I start to troubleshoot? Is there a way to test the solenoid is working aside from just hearing it pop when 12v is applied? Maybe it’s clogged from having sat in a field for 5 years?
OK. I need some help here. I followed an old post by @arghx where @Banzai-Racing said I could connect the solenoid to the Turbo Precontrol connector. I confirmed I had the OEM connector still on my harness (B1-37 with yellow/blue and black/white wires) per the Wiring FSM. I connected my solenoid to a battery and it pops/clicks. I plugged a test light into the 12V wire of the OEM precontrol connector and it lit up so I know I’ve got power. I connected the two since the Apexi solenoid uses the same connector as OEM so no messing with wiring to my PFC harness. I then plumbed as so: Vacuum nipple on UIM connected to COM port on Solenoid and then NC port connected to the the bottom port of my Turbosmart WG which currently has a 7psi spring in it. I left NO port open. My target boost is 14psi or maybe a little under so i started with .90 kg/cm^2 which is 12.8psi.
I went into the PFC settings with my Datalogit and turned Sequential Off and left turbo transition times alone (Per Banzai Racing’s post) and then I initially set my boost to .90 and dusty cycle to 46%. First run, full throttle 3rd gear, hit about 1.1 before I blew a coupler off my intercooler piping. Still, I over shot it. Tightened the coupler, adjusted to .85 and 80%. I hit 1.09 and the fuel cut. 3rd run, changed to .90 and 80% and hit the fuel cut again at like 1.25. That was all I had time for tonight.
So...my guess is that my solenoid isnt working properly? The only thng I didn’t test was whether or not there was a good ground on the OEM connector but let’s assume there is, where do I start to troubleshoot? Is there a way to test the solenoid is working aside from just hearing it pop when 12v is applied? Maybe it’s clogged from having sat in a field for 5 years?
It's all well and good you have 12v at the one pin, but the important one that receives the signal is the pulsing ground. Make sure you have continuity to pin 4v at at your ecu plug in back of your powerfc. Also I think some boost solenoids are polarity sensitive, I know the one on my efr is marked postive on one side of the denso plug. Disregard the red circled stuff in this pinout, I borrowed this pic. 4v is in the big connector
You're jumping the gun here. Unplug the solenoid and see if the boost drops. If it does, your boost and duty settings are too high.
You probably started too high on the settings. Cut the boost and duty values in half (0.45 , 23%) and see what happens. Please re read my threads on boost control for the sake of your engine. Look at your datalogs and compare solenoid duty cycle and boost to see what's happening.
You're jumping the gun here. Unplug the solenoid and see if the boost drops. If it does, your boost and duty settings are too high.
You probably started too high on the settings. Cut the boost and duty values in half (0.45 , 23%) and see what happens. Please re read my threads on boost control for the sake of your engine. Look at your datalogs and compare solenoid duty cycle and boost to see what's happening.
I def had the wrong oem connector. The correct color for 4V connector is L/Y and my dumbass connected to Y/L. Confirmed this stupidity via continuity check per @aplscrambles. I found the correct connector but it failed continuity check so I spliced the correct colors from avcr harness that the solenoid connects to into the pfc harness. Going to go take a run again. My understanding from the articles is that the number you put in (eg. .90) is the target boost in kg/cm^2 right? So i take my target ps, convert it to kg/cm^2 and then use duty cycle to fine tune it right?
@arghx - made a run with your suggested setting after wiring it correctly (I hope). Hard to make runs on public roads and capture data and be safe but the is one of my runs. Somehow I don't think it's right....my WG% is looks to be on or off. Definitely was still hitting fuel cutoff at around .77
The attached images are the whole capture and then part of the capture zoomed in.
ignore charts above. I realized because I’m using pre control pin that I’m charting the wrong metric. I should be using advanced PC and not advanced WG.
Did some testing on my solenoid by blowing into one end with and without power to seeing what happens.
NO POWER to Solenoid = COM vents to NO
WITH POWER to Solend = COM vents to NC
So, after talkin@Molotovman , he suggests I replumb. My UIM should connect to NO and my WG (bottom port) should connect to COM and NC should be open to vent...
Replumbed per Molotovmans suggestion and still not getting the intended behavior. @arghx -- thoughts? This capture was .45 @ 50% duty. Still hitting fuel cutoff. I'm still unsure if I'm plumbed right. I've seen some video on YouTube where people using a 3 port solenoid have both the TOP and BOTTOM port of the WG connected
also... been doing some reading and I wonder if my WG is too small. I'm running. 40mm WG on a Borg Warner S300-SXE 8380. I have been seeing the big turbo + low boost = bigger WG. Pretty sure this qualifies as a big turbo. I know it's the first time Bryan at Rotorsports used this size turbo and now I'm wondering if I'm blowing past my boost because my WG just can't vent enough since I'm not running high amount of boost...????
If that's the case I would start by changing the spring in the wastegate. Do you have it set up to use both ports on the gate as well?
Is look into those before changing the gate.
I have the other 7psi spring for a combined 14psi. I remember Bryan at Rotorsports telling me when both springs were in, the car was hitting like 21psi so he pulled one out. The exhaust manifold is what was on the car so we know nothing about it. I know that can effect boost too. I’m currently only using the bottom port of the WG but it’s got the nipples for both. Should I be using a different plumbing setup? I’ve see some where it’s UIM to a T that connects to bottom port and NC port and then COM to top port and NO to vent. The turbo smart WG Manual shows several setup options but it uses Port A,B,C terminology vs COM, NO, and NC
02-27-20, 08:56 AM
