Boot103

Hey folks,

After 5+ years of sitting around my FD will finally be rebuilt over the next few months. Due to life I had to put it on hold.

All those years ago I had bought a freshly bough peripheral port engine from a friend (hopefully its all good). It does look like its still got the assembly lube in there and the writing on the rotors so certainly seems genuine. Along with the engine I had bought a Link G4+ ECU, 4 AEM coil packs. Bosch 044 fuel pump / filter and swirl pot.

The bodywork also needs a complete refresh.

Now comes the puzzle of putting it all together. I think I will start with swapping the engine and getting it to fire up on the ECU. Once running I can be happy the engine is all good.

I will then pull the engine out again and do all the bodywork / fuel system / ignition system / move the wiring from the front to inside or somewhere else. Then bung the engine back in. Then at least I know if it doesn't run its narrowed down to a few things.

Anyone have experience with peripheral ports? It looks like it has two injectors but two are missing. Do they still work as primary and secondary?

Any advise on what CC injectors to use and what may fit? The inlet manifold looks completely custom.

Video of ports and rotors https://streamable.com/eegpuc ​​​​​​​

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I helped a friend start an engine that was built 20 years ago and stored, fired right up and was fine. Big thing is if it was stored well - not left out in the weather or anything weird.

What are you planning on using the car for? A PP with that giant turbo is going to be CRAZY laggy and barely streetable. This is a race only setup.

For the injectors, since you are controlling everything you can really do what you want, but typically you would want primary and secondaries. You'll need big injectors overall to support the power it's capable of. I'm sure the ECU will have no problems with running staged injectors however you like.

Dale

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yep! once you get over the mechanical chaos its actually easier to tune than a regular engine, if you are off on the fuel it'll be angry, very simple. or maybe another way is that you always hear that you give the engine what it wants, and the P Port is really adamant about it....

i see a second fuel rail underneath, so you would/could do primary and secondary injectors. no idea what sizes you need, but this would cover it, https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...e-e85-1056358/
just as a note, that sizing guide assumes that you need enough fuel to max out whatever turbo you picked, so it gives you really big injectors. if you use a boost cut, or the total flow of the whole thing is less than the turbo you can run less injector

Boot103

I had a look into the ports and it still has the assembly grease in there. Lots of oil in there also. No rust. So I think it will be fine.

The main reason for getting it running is I want to move all the wiring inside. Remove the rats nest back to wherever it leads and really tidy it all up under the hood. If I have it running before and then after I do the wiring job it doesn't work I know I have gone to mad with the wire cutters haha.

As for the use its going to be a car that gets used to go to meets. Occasional drag strip for fun (Santapod) and some track days. Not a daily. I believe it's just down to personal preference. I know it's going to be a pig to drive on the road but comfort is not my goal. The goal is to make it run and have some fun in it.

@j9fd3s Thanks for that link. I will have a read.

Lets say 75% - 80% of its potential is my goal.

Looks like I have a set of primary injectors off my old engine. The secondaries were OEM so I guess useless in this application due to the modified manifold.

Primary's Part Number: Ford 0280150846
1600CC

There are also 2 injectors on the PP manifold which I assume were used as secondaries.

Part Number: Mazda Miata 195500-3310

Not much info on these 250cc maybe?

Guessing these will be good enough to run the engine for the test startup.

I have pulled the old engine and started swapping the bits and bobs over.

Old Engine Pulled


Clutch removed.



3.95mm left. 4mm new. Hardly used!


Installed AN oil return fitting.


Exceedy Twin Plate Installed.



Time to modify the turbo oil return to accept an AN fitting.



TIG welded an AN fitting bung on to the flange.

Boot103

Quick question. I seem to be missing an oil filler flange on the new engine. Is there some sort of bit that presses in there? Any ideas?

Is it fine to use loctite instant gasket maker instead of the OEM ones for things like the oil pickup / oil return etc?

Old engine flange for oil filler neck.


New engine missing?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (2)

it’s a separate press fit part, there are aftermarket variations as well like a -16 direct-thread AN fitting etc.



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BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Not many people do a full NA style peripheral port with a turbo. Too many disadvantages to intake ports where the flow is never substantially impeded by the rotor.

You can get info from the 4 rotor turbo guys since they are usually stuck with full NA style p-ports.

One thing is tuning is tough- AFRs dont really work with that much external combustion (intake ports that are always open).

Your turbo is small for the application, would usually use a massive hotside- again because of all the external combustion.