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MMMkay. As per usual, lots of things to catch up on. Firstly, I had the old primaries I was planning on reusing flow and spray-pattern checked and they actually came back bad (they functioned, but short of spec). Glad I checked, but it got me to thinking about my fuel system choices as a whole. My initial plan was to re-use the stock primaries, FPR, and get a new FPD. I had bought the RP fuel rail a while back to tie those parts together. However, after seeing the poor showing from the injectors I figured it was also time for a new FPR, and if I'm going to do that, I figure I'll just go with the fuel system I lusted after from the start - FFE's full kit with the mini FPR and ID injectors all around.
Here's the system all plumbed-up, I'm happy with it. looks for the most part, nice and tidy! As I understand it, the kit intends you to discard the upper hardlines and run the lengths of tube right to the firewall hardlines. I preferred to use the upper ones, I think it looks nicer, not that anyone will see it...
One problem with this routing though is the hose going from the FPR to the upper hardline. It's kinked and I'm not cool with that.
ACT clutch came in! And it has that Monoloc thingy. I actually didn't realize that comes with the clutch. Not bad! I went with the fairly popular HD/SS combo, and am hoping it doesn't increase clutch pedal force too much, as I'd like a stock feel. I figure if it's too heavy, I could always get the FEED "Big Release" slave cylinder or something along those lines but again, hoping its not necessary.
Nice n' yellow. Shame it's got to be hidden in a bellhousing.
Installed the new throwout bearing and also as a precautionary measure, replaced the fork with the newer one that is supposed to be of higher strength. Don't really know if the old fork was that hi-strength version as they look identical, but I'd hate to have the thing break at a stoplight which has happened to a friend of mine!
In the picture it looks like the vacuum line that is destined to be for the MAP sensor has a plastic T on it. Word to the wise, you want 1 vacuum line from the MAP sensor to the manifold with just the black filter in that line and that's it. Plastic T's can break and fail with heat and that's an easy way to lose an engine - I have had friends in the past who have lost engines to plastic T's.
You should have extra nipples on the back of the UIM if you removed emissions that you can use instead of the T.
Thanks Dale, its those kind of tips that are why I wanted to document everything I could here. If something looks fishy I want to know about it! That T will soon be outta there.
Using Neo this go 'round. I had Redline before and it wasn't bad, but I did still experience some grinding when cold which I'm hoping might be decreased with NEO. Bearings and syncros had also been replaced, so I'm hoping for a buttery smooth shifting experience.
OOOkay. Lack of pictures at the moment, I just got too excited. So, I filled all the fluids, cranked it over a few times without the injectors just to build oil pressure, then enabled the injectors and YEAH! Haha! started right up no prob! Man, the exhaust note is way different. Louder for sure, but it also sounds just more like a rotary. Much more of that classic 'brap' sound. I reaaaaally love it.
Now on to the bad news... My ISC isn't functioning. So I couldn't take my foot off the pedal or the engine would choke out and die. Did some testing and found that it wasn't getting any voltage. I looked at the wiring diagram and it SHOULD be dead simple. Constant battery voltage is supposed to come in thru the EGI relay, and we don't have it. I tested the voltage at the OMP, turbo control, and purge control (the only other things left on that line now that the emissions and twin control system is gone) and they do have battery voltage. Well that doesn't bode well as I can only imagine it means a break where the ISC's wire meets the main voltage line.
I tried flexing the harness all around just to see if there was an intermittent break in the wire, but I just got nothing. ARRRRRGH I WAS SO CLOSE!! Man am I frustrated. Oh well, deep breaths. I really think the only thing to do at this point is roll it back into the garage, extract the wiring harness, and open it up to try and find the source of the break. I could bodge a +12v wire to that spot, but dang that's just not the route I want to go regardless of how tempting it is.
Sweet! Congrats on getting her in and ready!
Thanks for sharing... I always love checking out others build threads.
I just finished putting mine back together... I need to update my thread too.
Steve
Thanks, and you should! I think most of us love seeing what other folks do with their builds. Sometimes its inspirational, sometimes its depressing, but its always interesting.
Now on to the bad news... My ISC isn't functioning. So I couldn't take my foot off the pedal or the engine would choke out and die. Did some testing and found that it wasn't getting any voltage. I looked at the wiring diagram and it SHOULD be dead simple. Constant battery voltage is supposed to come in thru the EGI relay, and we don't have it. I tested the voltage at the OMP, turbo control, and purge control (the only other things left on that line now that the emissions and twin control system is gone) and they do have battery voltage. Well that doesn't bode well as I can only imagine it means a break where the ISC's wire meets the main voltage line.
I tried flexing the harness all around just to see if there was an intermittent break in the wire, but I just got nothing. ARRRRRGH I WAS SO CLOSE!! Man am I frustrated. Oh well, deep breaths. I really think the only thing to do at this point is roll it back into the garage, extract the wiring harness, and open it up to try and find the source of the break. I could bodge a +12v wire to that spot, but dang that's just not the route I want to go regardless of how tempting it is.
I did not see any details in here about the wiring harness you used. I will assume you used an OEM harness and modified it for single turbo by cutting off the twin turbo / emissions connectors. The ISC receives power from the main B/W wire that feeds all those connectors. Although the wiring diagram makes it look like all the solenoids are in parallel, the ISC is actually wired in series so cutting those connectors off also cuts off power to the ISC.
Hah, holy nuts! Well you hit the nail on the head there I reused the old harness and lopped off the solenoid wires. Dang that diagram makes it look like that would work. Plan for today is to take out the harness and open it up (if only I had done that in the first place). I actually had a feeling something like that might be up, thanks for confirming!
Okay, here's a super scientific drawing of how I broke the ISC connection. As JhnRx7 pointed out, things aren't exactly as they seem in the wiring diagram. The way they are connected, is more like below:
The rats nest solenoids have their own "branch" off of the wiring harness that looks like you can just cut the whole thing off, insulate the ends of the wires, tuck them away, and move on with your life. However, the wire that provides the constant battery voltage for those solenoids as well as for the ISC is routed from the beginning of the harness, up and SLIGHTLY INTO that rats nest branch before its power is distributed to the ISC. So if you cut the branch off, you're also cutting power to the ISC.
Hope this saves someone else from making the same mistake!
Okay. Now that I understand the ISC problem, I performed some minor surgery on the harness and got a healthy voltage at the connector. Rolled it outside again and this time it idles beautifully! That means I was finally able to get out of the drivers seat and look for leaks, check sensors, and also snap some engine running pictures! It's such a treat to see this thing purring away after so long.
03-06-20, 11:11 AM
