Believe this is an old chart, but will give you an idea of difference in the Hawk pads.

http://andrew-racing.com/file/630-Ha...ison+chart.pdf

I am running DTC-60's in front and 30's in the rear on stock calipers and for the most part am happy (there's somewhat of a front bias). You can also try titanium backing plates. They are supposed to help block heat transfer, but i'm not entirely convinced

https://hardbrakes.com/

Best solution is ducting fresh air

 

Update on some of the single turbo gear,

1st up are Solid diff and engine bushings, a GFB fuel reg, Bosch 044 pump, new exhaust gaskets, and some brake out cables for the link ecu.
The alloy mount is for the hot side, the others are machined plastic.


Next up is a underdrive/air pump delete pully kit, Secondary rail + 1400cc injectors, block off plates and 2 pressure sensors (oil + fuel).
Apparently due to the large size of the pullys water pump belt slip is not a issue, something ill watch out for though.
The rail has 8AN ends.


The Green Brothers clutch kit, looks good, will see how it is once installed, solid center carbonic 5 puck.


The Link G4+ RX7 PNP, this is effectively a Link G4+ Extreme with a adapter board. I asked for the board to be modified to add some more Analog inputs (done by Link so the warranty stays in place



I managed to pick up the Greddy VMount kit i was after for a great price. The cores are in great condition, ill just polish them back up.

The intercooler core is a epic 100mm thick!


The pipes i will be using


And the ones i wont


Dual pass radiator!


After a quick polish!

 

Very nice

What turbo are you looking to go with ?

 

Thanks, Borg Warner EFR 8374 .92 IWG with the Turblown manifold / dump pipe etc

 

I went to REUnion this weekend, this is a 2 day rotary engined only event in New Zealand at Bruce Mclaren Motorsport Park near Lake Taupo. It involves circuit, drags, drift and a burnout competition. This year during the Grand Parade there were 258 rotarys on the track!

The car performed really well, not a single issue to speak of (very happy considering the 600km round trip + 2 days beating on the track!), the suspension modifications have improved the handling, much less understeer now. This was a fun event so no helmet / suit etc.

I did switch back to the old wheels and tires for 2 reasons
- The rears are still rubbing on the outer fender, there is about 2-4mm more clearance needed.
- The front left has rubbed through the fender liner and taken off a strip off the wiring loom. As a temp fix for the weekends racing i electrical taped up the loom (no wires were stripped) and cable tied it up as high as possible. Thinking i need to relocated this.

Not much to update on the build side of things, I am planning to do as much pre work as possible so i can have as little down time as possible. So far i am thinking ill be able to do the following before pulling the motor:
- Surge tank / 044
- Battery relocation
- Greddy intercooler kit (i know i will need to take it out again but i would like to see it in the engine bay)
- Mech diff + solid mounts




Check out the fly over!!

 

Also preview image from a recent photoshoot, cant wait to see the other pics

 

Looking good

What are the wheel specs on the TE37s

 

Thanks!

19x9.5 + 22 - 235/35
19x10.5 + 22 - 275/30

An easier fitment would be +28 on the rear

 

Thanks !!! liking the rear wheel profile from the pic

Ash (Pixeltoon) and i went out a few times for a cruise in the past (his supra and my rx7)
he mentioned he was doing/did a photoshoot for your rx7 few weeks ago

 

Ah nice! He is a good guy, was super patient waiting for a day when our schedules and weather could line up I cant wait to see the rest of the pics.

Hit me up if you want a FD cruse!

 

Looking awesome mate, love that front bumper!

The reunion event looked quality!

 

Thanks Tom!

Another event this last weekend, Mad Mikes Summer Bash! Plenty of fun, got a little bit if circuit time (~10min) but hit pad issues (deposits causing shuddering), time to try something other than the DTC-30s.

Anyway, here is a picture pulling into the pits of the Hampton Downs race track in NZ:

 

FAMSpeed Ti catback came from Japan, stoked with it, easily weighs less than half the random one that was on before. Sounds Rad, looking forward to dumping fuel on decel through it




Quick video, OEM midpipe and downpipe, i imagine it will sound quite different again once the 3" mid, 3.5" down pipe and single turbo conversion are done.


Oh and this happened... Hawk DTC-30

 

Time for some more parts pics, single turbo build will be starting in ~ 2 months!

If you want to see updates follow me @ https://www.instagram.com/troyschuetrumpf/

 

very nice bits of kit Troy

AEM Gauges

 

Time for another update!

Had a couple of track days since the last post and the handling and breaking of the car is now mostly on point.

Switched pads to Hawk HP Plus (front and rear) based on Heath @ SBGs recommendation, no more braking issues! no more shuddering and no fade in 30min sessions. The downside is the initial torque is much lower than that of the DTC-30. Considering trying Hawk Blues next and then maybe some endless pads. (You may have better experience with the DTC-30s).

I switched my track wheels over to Yoko AD08Rs, 225s and 245s (previous tires were Dunlop SP8000s, not really a track tire). These have been fantastic so far, far more dry grip and they do not seem to compromise in the wet. Has given me a lot more confidence in the car.

Setup the alignment at follows:


All up the handling and braking of the car is now miles better, i have much more confidence and much higher corner entry and exit speeds!

I have found that as my corner speed has picked up so has my engine oil consumption. Last day out i went through a litre of engine oil (~1 quart), this is likely to get worse as i continue to improve. I have picked up a oil catch can but i believe ill need a baffled sump as well.

On the last day out my secondary turbo stopped providing boost, (getting around 1-3 psi over 4500rpm) so far i have replaces a bunch of the vac lines, a couple of check valves and the throttle body / uim gaskets but still no boost. At this point i am guessing the charge control solenoid has failed but i can clearly hear the secondary turbo spooling so at a bit of a loss. Not sure if ill fix this as ill be starting the single turbo conversion end of September but if anyone has a good idea, shout out it would be nice to have boost for my last track day before the conversion.



Other updates on the car, i have replaced a couple of oem parts that were old / frail / broken:






Next up, installed the Greddy Vmount intakes, i figured i should use them at least once before moving to the EFR. The induction noise is much louder with these on.




Picked up some carbon fender mirrors really looking forward to putting these on.





Finally got a race suit, just went with a 2 layer for now but still FIA approved

 

On the wiring front i have started on a couple of the relays / fuse looms. Also going to relocate the battery to the boot, got most of the suplies from ProWireUSA, highly recommend them.




Few items are on their way,
- R7420 10.5 plugs
- Car Shop Glow GT End Caps
- Cusco RS 1.5 LSD

This is the design on the end caps, planning on designing new uprights to move the wing further back as well.

 

Very nice, just confirming is that an internal wastegate or external wastergate Borg Warner EFR 8374 ?

 

Thanks!
Internal wastegate with the aluminium CHRA. Hoping to hold ~12psi to start with then add water injection and turn up the boost

 

Nice build man! I've seen it around before. I'm a kiwi too

 

Cusco diff has arrived!


Also test fitted the endcaps, i think i will raise the wing by ~10cm so the plates can go a bit lower. I also need to delete the aerial.

 

You may want to look into a baffled fill neck. I put one on and my blow-by dropped considerably. Elite Rotary Shop here in the States sell them.

 

So last week i had my final track day before the next stage of the build began!
In the weeks leading up to the event i was unable to get over 4psi above 4500 rpm, I went through a bunch of diagnosis (tested solenoids and valves with a mighty vac, replaced / tested check valves, replaced most vac lines, pressure tested the pressure and vac tanks), nothing worked. As i knew i was going to be converting to the single turbo anyway I didn't continue with the diagnosis.

4th lap in it started burning huge amount of oil from both the bonnet vents and exhaust (so much i was unable to see out of the windscreen) i shut it off straight away, the engine was idling fine (despite the massive ***** of smoke).

Once i got a tow off the track I pulled the intake pipe of the secondary turbo was clearly smoking, i pulled the intake pipe off and the compressor wheel nut fell out... damn.

Keeping a positive mood outlook, this has stopped me delaying the build! So far i have had 2 nights to work on the car and have got a bunch of disassembly done, Intakes, throttle body, UIM, Turbos, manifold, downpipe, intercooler, radiator, water pump, alternator, thermostat, coils have been removed. I have also dumped the fluids, coolant looked clean, engine oil did not have any shavings (i have a magnetic sump plug).

Not many Issues so far during disassembly,
- 1 exhaust manifold stud snapped, doesnt matter as it wont be used
- coolant level wire is split in 3 places, will splice a new wire in with duraseals
- split one of the AC hard lines, will need to get a new one made up, probably not a big deal as i may need custom ones anyway with the vmount

Next step is to get a camera into the exhaust port to try and inspect the apex seals and do a compression test.

Sitting at the track after the turbo failure


The compressor wheel nut!


Partial disassembly


No metal!


Turbos out!


New variable position, floating exhaust wheel design:


More disassembly


Some comparisons

 

Yum...

 

@___@ can't believe the Hawk HP+ can handle a 30 minute session on on a track with your set-up, those are my favorite STREET pads so far.

Nice you don't have to swap out tires or pads from street to track. Its amazing how much better these streetable consumables have gotten!

I hope SCCA makes a racing class for FD on street tires soon (besides 100% stock class).