94 Build... GT35R, RE Vmount and a whole lot more............ NOW WITH PISTONS!!
This is the first rotary engine that I have ever had fail. Pretty crazy considering I have owned 9 Rx7's over a 15 year period. I did a swap earlier because the original owner had a JSPEC engine in it. It had great compression but used 3 piece Mazda seals. My goal has always been around 500whp. I knew as I turned up the boost the 3 piece seals would have issues. The problem is, I wasn't patient. I got greedy and jumped on a low mileage Pineapple engine in the ForSale section. I saved a few dollars by buying it and selling my JSPEC. Instead of carrying through with my original plans of having the JSPEC engine built for the power, I took a gamble on a used engine with factory seals.
Dyno Day!...Thrills and Chills...
Well folks, the results are in, and the setup performed very well. We saw a bit of extra flow from the addition of the billet wheel. Our last run was at 24psi, and it LAID IT DOWN! In the process, the rear rotor let go. As the official results of the failure are yet to be discovered, my tuner is pretty confident it is a warped apex seal. As the engine is using OEM Mazda 2 piece seals, it is rare for them to warp. Whatever the real damage is, it will be known when we tear it down. Whether the seal cracked or warped, we will see. I am confident that my turbo didn't take any damage. It will definitely be inspected though.
AFR's were solid and it never ran lean. EGT's were also solid as each rotor was within 10 degrees F of each other.
My plans are obviously to rebuild the engine better than before. It will be studded and running a performance apex seal. I want to really set it up this time around.
As I pushed the envelope of my engine, I knew there were risks. Those risks caught up with me. As more time and money is ahead of me, the only real consolation I have is that I made big power for the first time, and I will be BACK!
Well folks, the results are in, and the setup performed very well. We saw a bit of extra flow from the addition of the billet wheel. Our last run was at 24psi, and it LAID IT DOWN! In the process, the rear rotor let go. As the official results of the failure are yet to be discovered, my tuner is pretty confident it is a warped apex seal. As the engine is using OEM Mazda 2 piece seals, it is rare for them to warp. Whatever the real damage is, it will be known when we tear it down. Whether the seal cracked or warped, we will see. I am confident that my turbo didn't take any damage. It will definitely be inspected though.
AFR's were solid and it never ran lean. EGT's were also solid as each rotor was within 10 degrees F of each other.
My plans are obviously to rebuild the engine better than before. It will be studded and running a performance apex seal. I want to really set it up this time around.
As I pushed the envelope of my engine, I knew there were risks. Those risks caught up with me. As more time and money is ahead of me, the only real consolation I have is that I made big power for the first time, and I will be BACK!
As I said on Facebook; that sucks, but damn you gained 40WHP from switching wheels. That is really impressive. I cant wait to see what my TDX-61 turbo puts down on my half bridge motor on e-85.
When you say studded you mean an engine stud kit or extra dowels?
Any idea what apex seal and who will build the motor?
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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As I said on Facebook; that sucks, but damn you gained 40WHP from switching wheels. That is really impressive. I cant wait to see what my TDX-61 turbo puts down on my half bridge motor on e-85.
When you say studded you mean an engine stud kit or extra dowels?
Any idea what apex seal and who will build the motor?
When you say studded you mean an engine stud kit or extra dowels?
Any idea what apex seal and who will build the motor?
I'm currently pricing stuff out and talking around. It will definitely be either Speed1 or IRP. Both of which build awesome engines!
Unfortunately, nothing is going to happen fast. With the purchase of a house, and the move in January, I'm really locked in financially. My plan is to pull it, and get it to the shop of choice. At least I will avoid shipping it from MS that way. Once the funds are together, the rebuild will presume and I will just have to pay shipping back to MS.
I'm aware there are a lot of good builders in the country, and likely some close to MS. However, I feel confident in staying with what I know.
Thanks everyone!
i was referring to the sound it made at about 0:19.5
i just watched it again and maybe i was just hearing the rev limiter, but i thought it drop the rotor right at that moment.
i just watched it again and maybe i was just hearing the rev limiter, but i thought it drop the rotor right at that moment.
to me it sounds like its still reving at 19 sec also, listen carefully with your eyes closed , easier to hear in the vid with the camera behind the car
Last edited by Rotary Extreme Sales 1; Oct 23, 2013 at 02:21 AM.
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My tuner said he could feel it let go up top at the very end of the pull.
I have been racking my brain trying to think of what could have caused it. Once the engine is apart, we will know more. I just want to make sure it wasn't something in the setup. I don't think it was, as AFR's and EGT's were solid.... but I want to absolutely make sure. My hopes are that it was an engine build issue.
540whp is a lot of hooche. I'm still using the OEM lower manifold. I considered it being an issue, but my EGT's were within 10 degrees of each other under full boost. The same could be said for my injectors and pump. If I was running out of fuel, the AFR's would have jumped. They were solid, and even dipped into the 10's one run.
Same for my WI system. I'm going to test it, but if I would have drastically lost meth, my AFR's would have leaned out.
We don't want history repeating itself with my new wicked engine!
I have been racking my brain trying to think of what could have caused it. Once the engine is apart, we will know more. I just want to make sure it wasn't something in the setup. I don't think it was, as AFR's and EGT's were solid.... but I want to absolutely make sure. My hopes are that it was an engine build issue.
540whp is a lot of hooche. I'm still using the OEM lower manifold. I considered it being an issue, but my EGT's were within 10 degrees of each other under full boost. The same could be said for my injectors and pump. If I was running out of fuel, the AFR's would have jumped. They were solid, and even dipped into the 10's one run.
Same for my WI system. I'm going to test it, but if I would have drastically lost meth, my AFR's would have leaned out.
We don't want history repeating itself with my new wicked engine!
I don't think you should think too much into it^......543 and 459tq is a hefty load for an oem motor. Not sure what was done to it...but 543 WHP and 459TQ is pretty damn Absurd on 93 Octane. You probably just reached the Limit of this motor on 91 octane. Wicked new motor...New fuel =Game over. Your set-up seems solid. Like I said....I wouldn't think too much into it.
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I don't think you should think too much into it^......543 and 459tq is a hefty load for an oem motor. Not sure what was done to it...but 543 WHP and 459TQ is pretty damn Absurd on 93 Octane. You probably just reached the Limit of this motor on 91 octane. Wicked new motor...New fuel =Game over. Your set-up seems solid. Like I said....I wouldn't think too much into it.
We were running 93 octane and injecting 750cc 50/50 water meth.
Honestly, I don't. From my calculations, I should be fine, but I'm not 100% certain. With the nature of my system, there is no way of increasing flow at a particular boost pressure. I will likely turn it down to 20psi with the rebuild, and still hit 500whp. With this billet turbo, it is obviously doing more with less. 40whp at the same boost level is quite a jump.
I have also considered E85, but being in the military makes it tough. Never know when I'm going to get stationed somewhere that fuel is scarce.
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The tank was on point, and tight. Everything seemed to be on point. Anxious to look inside and see what happened. It could have easily been the engine. It never had fantastic compression. I tested once with a standard piston tester and both rotors had 100psi on all 3 sides. For a fresh engine with 4k miles, not fantastic...
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From: NJ
Yea I remember how you even stressed closing it right... It was deff tight, For some reason I thought it was pressurized and doing that might have messed it up, but I stand corrected by Renesisfd... Its a bummer bro, she pulled like a freight train and ran so smooth. When ya gonna do the "autopsy"?
I tend to agree that 100# is a good number for this motor considering its a large street port (as I understand it). I have a similar Pineapple motor, large street port--but with 3mm seals. Typical mean compression is about 105# for my engine. Runs like a raped ape.
Btw, do you open the throttle when checking compession? It will make a bit of a difference.
Btw, do you open the throttle when checking compession? It will make a bit of a difference.
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
In my experience, opening the throttle makes a very big difference..... usually around 1 bar, 15ish psi.
In general, porting will not affect cranking compression measurably, although it certainly affects engine vacuum.
In general, porting will not affect cranking compression measurably, although it certainly affects engine vacuum.
I would expect to see a loss of compression of a few percent or PSI due to a later intake closing event. I know there are many factors, however, in my own experience, the cranking compression a good motor with substantial porting seems to be maybe 10-->15psi less than stock ported equivalent.
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Yes, it was at WOT during testing. Even pulses throughout, and both rotors were identical at 100psi. I definitely think the engine was healthy, just not the best I have seen in regards to numbers.
