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No it won't / didn't.
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man those look so clean and new ! Ahh I cant wait to see what becomes of them !
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This bitch will be sick! I know it for sure!
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looks great man , one step closer
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Originally Posted by Tem120
(Post 11608725)
looks great man , one step closer
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Originally Posted by cr7684
(Post 11595942)
http://www.fd3s.net/AST_thermostat_caps.jpg
Please don't take this in a bad way, I don't trust them the plastic nipple tends to crack. I use the metal one without the nipple. BTY you are doing a VERY good job!
Originally Posted by cr7684
(Post 11596003)
I just use the nipple on the housing below the cap when I delete the AST.
http://www.fd3s.net/AST_new_cap.jpg So you used the plugged nipple ????? Dude do you even know anything about cars if you use the bottom nipple the system will never build pressure because it all escapes through there there is no point in running a PSI cap.... you can run a 100 psi cap but you will only ever see atmospheric pressure in your system... go back to school.. |
LMFAO @ Tem120
Comes in here 3 months later to try and be smart. Gotta love how you post what everyone else tells you You my lil dipshit are a copy and paste mechanic. You only repeat what you hear And NOT what you know. Ahahahahahahhahahaha |
Originally Posted by NoPis10
(Post 11667441)
LMFAO @ Tem120
Comes in here 3 months later to try and be smart. Gotta love how you post what everyone else tells you You my lil dipshit are a copy and paste mechanic. You only repeat what you hear And NOT what you know. Ahahahahahahhahahaha truth is the truth... And that doesn't even make sense .. How is any of this what I hear ?? I've had my system done RIGHT .. since the first day .. not with the bottom of the AST delete nipple LOL .. if you wanna know what made me start to doubt my builder even knew WTF he was doing it was this comment.. I dont need to ruin his reputation he does it himself .. after he said this .. I read it and I was like WTF?? really ?? if i hadn't already given him my motor I'd of jumped to another ship right then and there.. But all I could hope for was that he knew more about building motors then keeping them from over heating. |
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
(Post 11667443)
In physics, the "path of least resistance" is an heuristic from folk physics that can sometimes, in very simple situations, describe approximately what happens. Other examples are "what goes up must come down" and "heat goes from hot to cold". But these simple descriptions are not derived from laws of physics and in more complicated cases these heuristics will fail to give even approximately correct results. In electrical circuits, for example, current always follows all available paths, and in some simple cases the "path of least resistance" will take up most of the current, but this will not be generally true in even slightly more complicated circuits. For example, if there are three paths of nearly the same resistance, the "path of least resistance" will only take up about a third of the current, and a path with nearly zero resistance will take up NO current if there is no potential difference between the ends of the path.
for lack of a physics book I'll use Wikipedia This is the essence of using a PSI cap . being that a PSI cap will be least resistance in a coolant system .. pressure escaping from the plastic nipple after the system reaches target PSI . VS blowing a hose off of the weakest link in the coolant system. But the way the OP describes makes 0 sense the system will not build pressure because pressure will always escape through the breather hole on the coolant reservoir .. LOGIC tells me this do not need to read a physics book btw. :lol: I hope I could educate you guys a bit , in the same way you guys edjucated me on how not to build a motor . remember to tighten the studs before you put the motor in a customer's car then blame him for for the problems kids .. THIS right here .. Perfect example on how to ruin your reputation .. |
Good Night SWEET PEA......
you are OUT of your LEAGUE.... you can quote ANY book or mechanic you want...The simple TRUTH and FACT is that you can't do anything to your car yourself....and yet you come on here giving advise...... BTW... I loved those little sprinkler pvc pieces you used to make a 90* bend for your heater hose...I'm sure Home Depot won't take them back because they FAILED on that BUCKET of SHIT you drive....and then you claim you didn't OVERHEAT the car....there was PROOF all over that engine bay Do yourself a favor and go jump OFF a bridge....and take that disgrace you call an FD with you.... |
Originally Posted by NoPis10
(Post 11667452)
Good Night SWEET PEA......
you are OUT of your LEAGUE.... you can quote ANY book or mechanic you want...The simple TRUTH and FACT is that you can't do anything to your car yourself....and yet you come on here giving advise...... BTW... I loved those little sprinkler pvc pieces you used to make a 90* bend for your heater hose...I'm sure Home Depot won't take them back because they FAILED on that BUCKET of SHIT you drive....and then you claim you didn't OVERHEAT the car....there was PROOF all over that engine bay Do yourself a favor and go jump OFF a bridge....and take that disgrace you call an FD with you.... because the plastic was NOT the path of least resistance the coolant seals in the motor was because he didnt build the motor right.. |
How is any of this what I hear ?? I've had my system done RIGHT .. since the first day .. not with the bottom of the AST delete nipple LOL ..
That's how I do mine & use the cap from the AST as always you take a bit of what I say & edited to fit your point. I dont need to ruin his reputation he does it himself .. after he said this .. I read it and I was like WTF?? really ?? The hot air/steam will rise to the highest point & using the AST tank cap can help you bleed air out the system without removing the cap. The to my post was that the plastic nipple was not the best & he was better off using the metal one. Chris. |
Originally Posted by cr7684
(Post 11667612)
How is any of this what I hear ?? I've had my system done RIGHT .. since the first day .. not with the bottom of the AST delete nipple LOL ..
That's how I do mine & use the cap from the AST as always you take a bit of what I say & edited to fit your point. I dont need to ruin his reputation he does it himself .. after he said this .. I read it and I was like WTF?? really ?? The hot air/steam will rise to the highest point & using the AST tank cap can help you bleed air out the system without removing the cap. The to my post was that the plastic nipple was not the best & he was better off using the metal one. Chris. case and point .. you dont even know how to work on this car's coolant system . please get out of the rotary game it will do the world a favor . go back to your honda with the fart can. |
Originally Posted by Tem120
(Post 11667622)
case and point .. you dont even know how to work on this car's coolant system . please get out of the rotary game it will do the world a favor . go back to your honda with the fart can.
You are a funny person. My Honda with a "fart can" it's my DD & the muffler is broken it's not like I'm trying to get that sound. Do you a favor & get out the rotary game, who do you think you are really? You know how many favors I did for you way before you started talking bad about me behind my back! You are not apart of the rotary game, you are a 2face a lier a ungrateful person & no rebuild in this world would ever fix that!!! Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club |
Originally Posted by Tem120
(Post 11667460)
hey hey hey , it was from the local autozone and it held up until cr7684 broke it when removing it.
because the plastic was NOT the path of least resistance the coolant seals in the motor was because he didnt build the motor right.. Learn how to keep up with your lies....... You told Chris it was like that when you bought the car and NOW you say it was from Autozone.....then you blame Chris for breaking it when the water stains on it show it was LEAKING for a while...which YOU even admitted on your thread that it was a "SMALL" leak.... see young Jedi....your LIES catch up to you eventually.....:blush: |
Originally Posted by NoPis10
(Post 11668333)
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Learn how to keep up with your lies....... You told Chris it was like that when you bought the car and NOW you say it was from Autozone.....then you blame Chris for breaking it when the water stains on it show it was LEAKING for a while...which YOU even admitted on your thread that it was a "SMALL" leak.... see young Jedi....your LIES catch up to you eventually.....:blush: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...astic-1049590/ This is the plastic that I was talking about that came with the motor.. the small leak.. was from the heater core on the passenger side of the car. (WHERE THE HOSE MEETS THE HEATER CORE NOT THE CORE ITSELF ) also you're forgetting that compression was escaping into the coolant system .. which over pressurized the system . which could of caused the leak. the coolant stains on that said plastic were there from the first day the motor was installed . because there was a coolant leak there which was fixed .. by chris btw .. and never has leaked since that was one of the first spots I checked .. when the car was losing coolant. regardless.. brittle plastic breaks. after getting heat cycled even if it was heater hose plastic . |
Any chance we can quit the bitching and get back to the build?
CR7684, loving the build! Would love to see more on your intake system. Do you have an RE block? I thought the RE Cosmo intake ports and bolt pattern didn't quite mach the REW ports? I just bought an Xcessive lower and I feel like the upper just isn't going to flow the right about amount air. Especially since I have a RW throttle 90mm body. Turbo is a T04Z... (build thread coming soon) Tem120, leave people alone. If you have private beef, keep it off the board brother... |
Originally Posted by lawless
(Post 11669028)
Any chance we can quit the bitching and get back to the build? CR7684, loving the build! Would love to see more on your intake system. Do you have an RE block? I thought the RE Cosmo intake ports and bolt pattern didn't quite mach the REW ports? I just bought an Xcessive lower and I feel like the upper just isn't going to flow the right about amount air. Especially since I have a RW throttle 90mm body. Turbo is a T04Z... (build thread coming soon) Tem120, leave people alone. If you have private beef, keep it off the board brother...
The motor will be port match to the RE manifolds & it's bolts right up. I should have more updates in the next couple of weeks, I dealing with other builds for customers. P.S. Also I hope this doesn't keep up on my thread. I am respecting your space do the same for mine. Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club |
ah! For some reason I thought your motor was already built. This is the route that I want to go because the factory UIM sucks. Well... I guess that's problem. It needs to suck more. lol. I think I'm going to "play" with the USDM UIM. I have an Xcessive LIM and RW 90mm throttle body... have to do something with the UIM now. I want that Cosmo upper but I know it doesn't bolt to the US LIM. I'm going to be watching this build closely. Keep up the outstanding work. Probably going to steal your AST removal idea as well.
Anxiously awaiting future updates. |
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where are you going to mount and where are you getting the OMP reservoir from?
I like the idea of giving the OMP it's own oil to inject but I need some more insight before a I make a decision. |
I have a Black Mamba Performance ABS delete kit, so where the ABS pump use to be is my SS tank.
Sent from my iPhone using RX7Club |
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