I think I lost the plastic nipple that goes on the rear iron coolant nipple , I know they sell similar ones at autoparts stores . anyone know if those will work? or if i need to order one from mazda?

 

I think the real purpose of those were to aid during vehicle assembly. Now it's just an added failure point. I wouldn't replace it. IMO, leave it off and just double-clamp the hose on either side of that 'bump'.

 

yep mine failed there and was losing coolant, just take it off if it isn't already and attach the hose directly to the metal inlet.

 

+1 on clamping the hose directly to metal. The plastic is useless.

 

I also ditched the pastic "thingy" that Mazda used in lue of a double clamp.

 

its B455-61-240A in case anyone is interested.

 

Mine let go on a hard pull in about 20kms from the nearest shop. It's now clamped.

 

i took mine off as well. Its just another failure point. I have around 3000k on the motor with no issues

 

Oh lord.

OK, a little history lesson. The FC had a metal nipple on the back of the block that the heater hose attached to. Ask any FC guy if he's had that hose blow, they go out ALL the time. Why? Oil gets dripped on the hose while changing the oil, it weakens the hose, it blows.

On the FD, Mazda put in that plastic quick-connect. Not really sure why they did it, but one thing it DOES do is reduce the amount of oil that gets on the hose during an oil change. Heater hose failures are FAR and away less of a problem on the FD.

So, PLEASE use that plastic quick connect. Reasons why -

- It helps keep oil away from the hose
- It's a proper sized nipple with proper hose barb for the heater hose
- It will last the life of the coolant hoses.

Clamping the hose onto the nipple is a poor idea. Biggest thing is the pipe is too small, so you have to crank down on the hose clamp to make it super tight so it doesn't leak. That crimps the hose down and drastically shortens hose life. Also, you can't use a spring type hose clamp, you have to use a worm drive clamp, and that cuts into the hose and also doesn't provide constant tension on the hose.

Please, guys, do it RIGHT.

Dale

 

I did fix it right IMO. I removed the plastic connector with an 'O' ring that's famous for failing about 5 years ago with two properly tightened quality worm-gear clamps...one on either side of the bump. Absolutely no issues.
I don't know anyone who's had a failure from hoses swelling from oil on an FD at that location. But I do know an owner (actually maybe two I'd have to ask), who've had that connector fail.

 

What/where is this mysterious plastic connector you speak of? My stock car just has the heater hoses onto the barbs with the factory spring clamps IIRC?

 

^Here's a picture of it (not mine...credits to 'mgoddard1'). The outer portion of the plastic fitting is removed and visible to the left. The inner portion is still attached to the large metal nipple and the 'O' rings are visible.

 

Im with Dale and replace them. Fyi Ford used these on the Aerostar and I can get them in my local parts store "Help" section for $8.99.

 

So the absolute solution is to do a clean oil change? Sounds easy enough lol.

 

That is the weirdest thing. I went out and checked, of all five JDM engines I have, not one has that strange plastic thing on that nipple. Looked in my original JDM 1992 daily driver and it just uses a normal spring clamp too. Was this just a USA thing?

 

No. ^^

Worm drive clamps, there are types that are lined, readily available - avoiding the digging in, although usual motor spare parts places carry the cheapest and nastiest varieties. From memory, the standard hose is a bit of a "**** in a sock" size wise, I think I've used 5/8 heater hose, but then again, no heater box to contend with here.

 

the JDM parts catalog shows it *shrugs*

 

I've imported RHD ones to Australia since 2004, and that is the first time I've seen that plastic thing.
In any case, spring clamp on my daily has given zero problems for years. That plastic doodad just looks like an extra failure point, but I may be wrong.

 

My motor was a JDM import and it came with it .

it looked so out of place I thought it was some kind of aftermarket mod .

 

My Jspec had it as well...

+1 to replace OEM nipple.