I believe in planning out the build... maybe a little bit to thoroughly! I will take months of researching parts, saving money, building plans and separating those plans into stages. Some projects take me a year or two, some take me half a decade!

Anyway, here is a few pics and I will post up my plans and will place the threads in as I progress in the build.

Project: Nadene

 

So I have the FD and all seems fine, good boost from 1st turbo, dip, good boost from 2nd turbo, shift, good boost from 1st turbo, dip, hey, where's my second turbo?!?! So did some research and reading and found a great post on how to fix this particular issue. Do some digging in the engine bay, and I find a check valve... in two pieces... ordered check valves and silicone vacuum hose from Banzai-Racing. Looks like I will be finding out the "pleasures" of the rats nest!



But, a few other items that I did over the last week.
- HKS Hipermax IV GT coilovers to replace the craptasitic eBay coilovers one of the previous owners slapped on the car. - Install was pretty much straight forward and I give credit to HKS having the coilovers set up from the factory and ready to bolt onto the car.
- purchased a set of Pettit Racing Toe Arms, had to modify the spacers on the wheel hub side, but other than that they seem solid and hopefully get rid of the wheel hop I occasionally experience.
- purchased used set of Rays Gram Lights 57DRs in 17x9 +22 as a second set of wheels for the car. The rear tires were still in good condition (Hankook Ventus Evo 2 245/40ZR17, but the fronts were shot, so I got Hankook Ventus Evo2 in 235/45ZR17. Once I need to replace the rears, the rears I will purchase are 245/45ZR17. I must say I was slightly concerned with this offset but had the tires on with the new coilovers and (rolled the fender lips) added some camber and adjusted the toe back out, and I must say, +22 is the perfect offset for running flush with the wheel arch profiles.
- took my stock wheels to have them powdercoated and bought new tires for them as well (General Gmax RS 245/50ZR16 (r) and 225/50ZR16 (f).
- purchased EBC front and rear rotors, Pettit Racing brake pads, and painted the calipers and brackets, flushed the old brake fluid, and replaced it with the Type 200 (Dot 4) {the stuff that replaced Super Blue - I only had a half can of this left ..)
- purchased Prosport JDM gauges (Boost, EGT, AFR) and installed them in a triple pod in the center speaker hole... after I went in and fixed the second "rats nest" of aftermarket stereo wires spliced in... one of the previous owners of this car sucked at modifying a vehicle!
- Practiced my vinyl wrapping skills (or lack thereof) and used Vvivid colorshift carbon fiber wrap on the hood.

Once I get done with the vacuum hoses and check valves in the rats nest, I will change the oil and filter, go get the AFR sensor exhaust bung welded in, and then get a proper alignment dialed in.


Other mods on this car prior to me purchasing it: rebuilt motor with mild street port completed, full turbo back exhaust, Apexi PFC and Commander (I replaced the Commander with the newer OLED one), Dyno tuned (285whp/230ish tq), Sony headunit, paint respray and clear (also a crappy job)

AND I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO GET THIS PHOTOS TO LOAD THE RIGHT WAY UP... I know it can be done as my Subaru Forums have an auto rotate feature... any help with this would be appreciated!

 

Congrats on the buy and welcome. Just curious what your plan is. Staying twin? I am by no means a pro, but will be happy to share experiences with different parts and companies!

 

Thank you! At this time, yes, I plan on keeping the Twins, but I did just spend a lot of money on updating almost everything to support the twins!

 

Ok, I spent a lot of money from multiple RX7 vendors... share the love, Right?! I've been reading multiple posts on this forum and developed my plan of attack, but I decided to only take my motor compartment apart once (hopefully). Here is what I've got and should keep me busy in my garage for a while! R.O.F.A.B.

Modifications Prior to Purchase: APEXi PowerFC (FD3S4) with FC Commander, rebuilt Street ported motor (approx. 2000 miles ago), Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator with Silicone Hoses, K&N Panel Filter, eBay Coilovers, Sony Headunit, Fuel Filter (with rebuild)

My purchases already installed (as of 29 March): OLED Commander, Prosport JDM (step motor daisy chained) gauges in triple dash pod (Boost, EGT, Wideband AFR),HKS Hipermax IV GT coilers, powder coated stock wheels and new General GMax RS tires (225/50ZR16 (F) / 245/50ZR16 (R), 2nd set wheels tires (Rays Gram Lights 57DR 17x9 +22 w/ 235/45ZR17 (F) / 245/40ZR17 (R), Pettit Racing Rear Toe Links, rolled front and rear wheel well lips, painted brake calipers, new EBC dimpled and slotted brake rotors, new brake pads, flushed brake fluid.

What's to come (purchased)
R. = Replace, Repair, Refurbish, Report
a. everything that is already listed above
b. ds2qwd's BT module for Android
c. FC Thermoswitch (fan control)
d. all gaskets to put intake system back together!

O. =Oil Cooling System
a. Earl's UltraPro Oil Coolers (19 row, wide) x2. (Holley Performance)
b. Earl's Thermostat
c. All Earls brackets, lines, fittings, and fasteners

F. = Fuel, Electronics, and Spark
a. RP Comp Denso Fuel Pump - direct replacement in tank
b. CJ Motorsports Ultimate Fuel System (1050cc/1700cc and Aeromotive FRP) - parallel system
c. AEM ignitors x4
d. Sake Bomb Garage Harness (run in wasted spark)
e. Magnecor 8.5mm wires
f. Duracell AGM Miata Battery
g. Multiple items to build my own custom battery tray for the passenger bin
h. All items to run 2ga wire, connectors, and grounds
i. 7 circuit fuse panel with 2x 40A relays and 40A resettable breakers with ignition on (will use one of these relays to rewire fuel pump.)
j. EATON Bussman 150A breaker with manual reset and release
k. FC Datalogit and adapter

A. = Air, Boost, and Cooling
a. Pettit Racing AST Swirl Pot
b. Pettit Racing dual intake (Racing)
c. FFE - Air Pump Delete Idler Pulley (and new belt)
d. APEXi AVC-R Electronic Boost Controller
e. Pettit Racing Blow Off Valve upgrade kit
f. Banzai Racing Block Off Plates
g. AZ's solenoid rack - waiting for AZ to send me payment option (I also purchased a few solenoids just in case I ever need to replace)
h. Vibrant silicone vacuum hoses

B. = Body (Exterior and Interior)
a. VIS Fusion Carbon Fiber Hood (Vented)

Thank you to the members on this forum for sharing your builds and knowledge... can't wait to get to work on this!

 

I would consider an AST delete.
If not I could sell you my Pettit one soon. Brand new with black heat dispersant paint on it...woah. well, brand new like it has a couple thousand on it with 0 since the heat dispersant.
Any reason you are changing the stock ignition?

 

Everything on that list is what I just purchased. So, I got the AST due to wanting the ability to ensure the air is removed from the system, I figured this was the best route; and while I do have a Lisle coolant funnel to help with burping the system, it appears there are so many areas for air to hide and I like this security blanket.

As for the ignition, everything under the hood is pretty crispy (baked). All the vacuum hoses were rocks (hard plastic) and the wire looms are extremely brittle. Plus, this allows me to remove everything off the top of the motor (and under the UIM) with the exception of the fuel system. Originally, I was looking to get the HKS Twin Power, but HKS doesn't make them anymore and for an item like that, I am not sure I want to buy it used. Used electronics worry me.

I am waiting for Rywire to open so I can call them up and discuss a MIL-SPEC tucked engine harness to replace the stock one.

I figured, I have it all apart right now, might as well replace all of these systems. Hopefully I won't have to ever take any of this apart any time soon.

I am open to advice (and criticism) for my plan and processes. How else can one learn besides reading a lot of forum posts, maintenance manuals, user guides/instructions, and tech articles? :-)

 

I am testing using a different means to attach photos to see if they post the right side up.

nope... still working on this...

 

Sounds good and I totally understand on the used electronics. Not sure about the cost difference on the ignition. I know the stock can handle much more than what people usually give it credit for. I am all for upgrades so if the cost is close or just a tad more and the aem is an "upgrade" then hell yeah.
The ast is in my way and adds additional clutter and blocks cooling from my IC. Not sure how it will be on your setup. I look at it as better cooling, less weight, and one less failure point. Kind of like the HKS twin ignition. I would take my HKS out, but with water/meth I think I will need it.. if it isn't in your way and you like it, by all means keep it. I left that up to Kilo racing as he is doing my rebuild. He said 100% get rid of it. Just giving you something to think about. I am excited to watch this unfold. Good luck to you!

 

You can use the GM style coils like the IGN1-A kit.

As for the AST, you can just order a stock one. It will last years and years. Or get an aluminum one. I'd say the benefits of getting rid of it are limited.

 

I should have changed that, I got the IGN1-A’s and Sake Bomb Harness.

 

Thanks! I am looking forward to putting this social distancing to good use and get a lot of work done in the garage! Now my wife on the other hand.... well, at least she didn’t kill me with my recent purchases!

Then I have my 64 Chevy Resto-Ratrod Truck to finish!

 

2 cents FWIW

- If you are running twins, go with a new OEM harness. If you are dead set on aftermarket, contact Chris Ludwig (LMS-EFI)
- OEM BOV is fine for stock twins
- Check all your solenoids (cold and hot) and actuators (a fair amount are probably shot)
- NGK plug wires
- PFC boost control (IMO) is fine for stock twins
- LRB makes a passenger bin battery mount
- Port your wastegate if you are running free flow intake/exhaust
- Replace all your cooling hoses (if you haven't)
- Replace your FPD (if you haven't)
- Replace fuel hoses in the engine compartment with OEM (if you haven't)

 

Thank you for the information . Most of the information you provided has either already been done, or I've already purchased (the R.O.F.A.B. list above).

Eventually (next year) I am planning on going either single turbo or getting the Twins to run non-sequential (purchase blueprinted ones). So, I wanted to get all of my systems up to speed now. I based 90-94% of my purchases off of reading what did and did not work for others, asking questions of people I know with RX-7s, and contacting others (that I don't personally know).

My rats nest was in bad shape (two broken solenoids, hoses were rock hard, one check valve was broken in half) and the wire harness underneath it... well the wire loom crumbled off of it as I was disconnecting the wires. I based my purchase from Rewire off of someone who is currently using their product and they love it.

Once I put the UIM back on, I don't want to pull the UIM off again if I can help it. So, I want to replace and relocate a majority of what was sitting on top of the rotor housings. Additionally, I want it to be ready for a turbo upgrade and clean up the look under the hood the best I can now.

 

So the CJ Motorsports Fuel System was on Back Order, talked with RX7Store and decided on the Full Function Engineering kit.

 

No offense, but don't think you are talking to the right people

Forgot to add that the FC switch is not needed with a PFC (it will control your fans) and you may want to look for other opinions on going non-sequential

 

I was reading that I could control the switches with the PFC, but not quite that deep into reading how to do it, I thought it might be a good safety method to ensure the fans kick on at the lower temp.

As for the last part of your statement, that definitely isn't encouraging... I am open to your advice, but I definitely want to remove everything other than the fuel system off the top of the motor, while also improving each system to new (and in some cases more modern items (not that the Mazda engineers didn't know what they were doing.)

Any guidance on where to look for differing routes would be appreciated, but I think updating the oil cooling, fuel, ignition, vacuum, and electrical under the hood is a good step in the direction I am trying to head. I'm not turning the car into a race car by any means, but I do want to make the engine compartment look clean and orderly, while maintaining the functions that are necessary for the car to be my weekend cruising and show car. How would you go about that?

 

You're doing all the right things (cooling, vacuum, elec, etc), but some of the things are a little questionable for a stock twin build.

- You don't need aftermarket fuel system. Stock injectors are fine for what the twins can handle (12/13 psi). Upgrading the Supra pump is fine, but probably not needed. If you upgrade the pump, you should upgrade the wiring to the pump (with a dedicated ground), and bypass the ignition circuit)

- Search on Non-Sequential mod. I can't think of a good reason to do it.

- Some have experienced problems with the Rywire harness. OEM is best for stock twins

- Recommend porting your wastegate (required if you ditch the main cat)

Other than that GTG

 

+1 on not going non sequential. I don't know of any "blueprinted" non sequential upgrades. Either do sequential right, or go single.

 

Thanks. As for the car, it has no cats when I bought it, motor was rebuilt a few thousand miles ago with a street port, and a few other things were done. I never experienced boost creep or over boosting.

As for the fuel pump, yes, I am rewiring that as well. I guess I’ll plan on going single turbo either this fall or at the latest, next spring.

 

It's official, the RX-7 is going single... Just purchased my set up after seeing (and knowing) the same setup on a friends FD. I like the simplicity of it, looking forward to that!

 

Which single turbo are you going with?

 

Going to use Turblown's ENGINEERING 13B ROTARY CAST EFR IWG TURBO SYSTEM w/ BW EFR-7670. I really like this on my friend's car, so I am going to copy him! LOL