water injection system preferred brand?
water injection system preferred brand?
I know of only Aquamist and Snowperformance.
I know some are running their own setup.
Is there a general consensus of what is a good brand?
I know some are running their own setup.
Is there a general consensus of what is a good brand?
Well I don't have one yet but I do plan on getting one. The one I hear the most about on here seems to be the Aquamist kit. That's the one I plan on getting but I don't have any technical info to go along with that decision.
Snow performance.net has a "stage 1" kit for $300. What does AEM cost? I'm mostly interested in it's cleaning abilities besides the anti-detonation. But I'll be running stock boost.
i got a cooling mist, but if i had the chance to change i would go aquamist.. you have a little controller instead of a gauge or big unit. also thanks to the water injection i got little to no knock when i tuned my car and was able to go to 18 psi
Depends on what your doing.
Lots of the kits that are full sale havnt been tested in their off the shelf form in BIG hp rotaries.
We had one of our 500rwhp 13bs that runs 28psi on pump fuel do a track day yesterday and cover around 80 laps (4 20 lap sessions) without a bother.
The kit on the above car cannot be purchased through any company, is not off the shelf and something we make.
It all depends what you want.
Lots of the kits that are full sale havnt been tested in their off the shelf form in BIG hp rotaries.
We had one of our 500rwhp 13bs that runs 28psi on pump fuel do a track day yesterday and cover around 80 laps (4 20 lap sessions) without a bother.
The kit on the above car cannot be purchased through any company, is not off the shelf and something we make.
It all depends what you want.
Rx72c, what would you suggest for my setup? My car is 99% street and 1% track. I want a system pre turbo to help keep the twins a bit cooler. I have a cheap 50/50 kit currently (in the elbow). It does not have injectors only a nozzle. Because it doesn't have any safe gaurds I have not tuned for it. That is something I want my future system to be able to do.
My mods are in my signature. I am aiming for around 330HP @ 15 psi. This is on a mustang dyno so the number could be closer to 400 on a dyno jet.
My mods are in my signature. I am aiming for around 330HP @ 15 psi. This is on a mustang dyno so the number could be closer to 400 on a dyno jet.
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That is not a high HP target.
I recommend switching to 100% water. Also move your jet to pre turbo and run a 450-550cc jet.
And you dont tune for the Water injection ever. Your tune stays the same regardless.
Set your AFRS up at 10.5-10.70 and your car will run very strong even for long periods of time. EGT's will stay relatively cool.
On a customer car on weekend, we had datalogging going, and i was able to drop egts around 1050 degrees celcius to around 940 degrees celcius by bringing fuel mixtures from 11.2-11.3 to 10.5.
Power still felt the same. Of course the key with this is ultra strong ignition.
Expect to pay around $850 for a GOOD CDI ignition with coils.
I recommend switching to 100% water. Also move your jet to pre turbo and run a 450-550cc jet.
And you dont tune for the Water injection ever. Your tune stays the same regardless.
Set your AFRS up at 10.5-10.70 and your car will run very strong even for long periods of time. EGT's will stay relatively cool.
On a customer car on weekend, we had datalogging going, and i was able to drop egts around 1050 degrees celcius to around 940 degrees celcius by bringing fuel mixtures from 11.2-11.3 to 10.5.
Power still felt the same. Of course the key with this is ultra strong ignition.
Expect to pay around $850 for a GOOD CDI ignition with coils.
Would a water injection system not be much more effective that an aftermarket intercooler? Mine is stock and I'm planning on keeping it that way but I was considering an SMIC but it looks like an injection system would be more effective and cost less.
Water injection has nothing to do with Air temps or wether you have intercooler. It is purely for KNOCK control. It does cool the inlet charge alittle but it isnt your primary concern.
That is not a high HP target.
I recommend switching to 100% water. Also move your jet to pre turbo and run a 450-550cc jet.
And you dont tune for the Water injection ever. Your tune stays the same regardless.
Set your AFRS up at 10.5-10.70 and your car will run very strong even for long periods of time. EGT's will stay relatively cool.
On a customer car on weekend, we had datalogging going, and i was able to drop egts around 1050 degrees celcius to around 940 degrees celcius by bringing fuel mixtures from 11.2-11.3 to 10.5.
Power still felt the same. Of course the key with this is ultra strong ignition.
Expect to pay around $850 for a GOOD CDI ignition with coils.
I recommend switching to 100% water. Also move your jet to pre turbo and run a 450-550cc jet.
And you dont tune for the Water injection ever. Your tune stays the same regardless.
Set your AFRS up at 10.5-10.70 and your car will run very strong even for long periods of time. EGT's will stay relatively cool.
On a customer car on weekend, we had datalogging going, and i was able to drop egts around 1050 degrees celcius to around 940 degrees celcius by bringing fuel mixtures from 11.2-11.3 to 10.5.
Power still felt the same. Of course the key with this is ultra strong ignition.
Expect to pay around $850 for a GOOD CDI ignition with coils.
Oh ok.
Timing or fuel mixtures never change. They are the same regardless of ai.
Run one big jet or run two small jets. Its purely up to you.
If your running one big jet, put it in your airbox so both turbos can get to the water.
Timing or fuel mixtures never change. They are the same regardless of ai.
Run one big jet or run two small jets. Its purely up to you.
If your running one big jet, put it in your airbox so both turbos can get to the water.
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