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Results of adding an IC to AI only cars

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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 08:04 PM
  #26  
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2 gph is kinda small if its your only source of aux injection. Mine started out as a 6 gph and is now 8+ gph.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 08:18 PM
  #27  
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well 2gph pre and 10 post turbo
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 08:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
2 gph is kinda small if its your only source of aux injection. Mine started out as a 6 gph and is now 8+ gph.
What are your intake temps like?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 07:19 PM
  #29  
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just added my preturbo nozzle and temps are staying the same. i dont understand
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by xboxthug13b
well 2gph pre and 10 post turbo
switch em out and see what happens.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 08:40 PM
  #31  
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switch em out?
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 01:16 AM
  #32  
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My temps at 23 psi boost pressure stay under 50c with a fast reacting open element sensor in the stock location. Temps under cruise conditions are 44c with a CAI on my turbo. This is in 95* F texas heat. It doesn't seem to matter how much boost i throw at it, the air temps stay reasonable, they still go higher then during cruise, but not near as high as without water. Preturbo will really shine once you get the boost high enough to generate enough heat for the water to flash. I would run more then 2 gph personally, probably more like 4. Course i wouldnt even bother with post turbo, i would just push it all preturbo.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 01:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
My temps at 23 psi boost pressure stay under 50c with a fast reacting open element sensor in the stock location. Temps under cruise conditions are 44c with a CAI on my turbo. This is in 95* F texas heat. It doesn't seem to matter how much boost i throw at it, the air temps stay reasonable, they still go higher then during cruise, but not near as high as without water. Preturbo will really shine once you get the boost high enough to generate enough heat for the water to flash. I would run more then 2 gph personally, probably more like 4. Course i wouldnt even bother with post turbo, i would just push it all preturbo.
i push 800 cc's of water smack bang right into the compressor wheel.

Originally Posted by xboxthug13b
switch em out?
yup. put the bigger injector before the turbo.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #34  
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i was cruising and had 112f intake temps, i started to boost and the temps would stay the same and start to climb alittle. the temps would only drop when i decel'ed

im doing 630cc post and 126cc pre. i wonder could 630 be too much post? my mixture is mostly water. maybe 70% water. running haltech GM intake sensor in stock location. not sure how everyone can get temps to drop with a little water and i cant get anything!

does the placement of filter really effect cooling capability of w.i. system?
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #35  
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the guys at devilown are saying its my iat sensor, im using gm style open element

my post nozzle is right after and across bov.









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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 07:52 PM
  #36  
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I doubt its the sensor. I think it would either work or not work, but you could always pull it and test it in water of known temperatures. Use room temp water, and hot water. I'm guessing you're using a haltech or something?

You might also test your water system to verify its flowing what you think.
Are you saying the temps are staying the same as they were before the water injection or just before the preturbo?
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #37  
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Temps are staying the same under boost according to my haltech intake sensor.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #38  
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any other ideas?
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:42 PM
  #39  
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The same as before adding preturbo or before adding the whole kit?
.
Also how much boost are you running and what size turbos/intercooler setup? Your temps don't sound like they are extremely high or anything. It's possible your temps are not really high enough for the water to pull much heat. Water cools the most when it flashes. It flashes at 212* F at 0 psi. This number increases as it's under more pressure. Since the majority of the water injected is after the intercooler, that water will not flash until it reaches the combustion chamber. Most of your cooling is being done by the intercooler, after that the water won't do much since the air is already cooled down quite a bit.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #40  
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ya i had the same problem even when i ran dual m10s (630cc+630cc= 1260cc)

i took a few logs one time with the kit off and seemed to read the same way. did a back n forth.

people claim of like instant drops in temps and im not seeing it.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #41  
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I edited my previous post you might take a look.
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #42  
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currently running 10 psi with a 60-1 t4 turbo. ebay core 12x24x3 i think.
was running 15 psi before with a 30% meth and 70% water.
i also have tried pure water as well
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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Is that by volume or by weight? (30/70)
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #44  
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I did some testing lastnight with the preturbo water only injection. Cruising temps were 33c (91*F) A good pull in 4th gear caused temps to increase to 42*c (107.6F) this was at 15 psi (low boost) I then let the temps settle back to 33C and did a pull on high boost (23 psi) temps went back to 42c. So it seems that even though the water isn't lowering the temps it's keeping them at a constant temperature regardless of how much boost I run. I would do a pull from 1st to 4th to further test, but my drag radials are too narrow and just spin all over the place. (even in 4th they spin w/ 23 psi)

I use the fast reacting sensor with the pfc as mentioned in other threads so temperatures are accurate.
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
600cc preturbo that is WAY too much. I generally run an M1 injector pre-turbo. I have killed 4 T4 turbos figuring that out.

Anyhow I finished two more Rx-7s in the past two days...

First FD is on stock twins at 11.6 PSI. For the last year + it has been running water only 1 M1 injector pre-turbo with an ambient air intake and a blitz stock mount with OEM duct work.
Car would generally run in the 60s/70s for intake temps here in the summer time at the track.

I recently added a 500CC injector post-compressor and switched to 50/50 mix. After the car has been running for about a 30 hour and a little boosting the intake temps are 40-44C. If I give it 7~ish psi the temps will drop about 2C after a complete 3rd gear run. If I run 1st/2nd/3RD at 11.6psi intake temps will remain the same. If the car heatsoaks about 56C then the temps will raise 2C. To get he car to heatsoak to those temps it has to be run for and shutoff and completely heat soaked. It has the stock hood too. I have modified the stock AIT and its in stock location, same for the following car.

Next car runs an apexi Rx6 turbo. Very similiar in size to stylemon's 57 trim. This car has an XS stock mount intercooler, no ducting, vented hood, turbo blanket, lim heatshield. Intake is still in the engine bay, sees small amounts of outside air( shielded). Its very close to the above car. However it runs the nicest aquamist jets( right side of the picture). The other cars are running coolingmists stuff.Temps will remain the same if under 55C, if about they will raise. This car on average runs 10C hotter than above car; I believe its the duct work to the IC. We are planning on adding a fmic after sevenstock.

Real key here is having a FMIC in addition to the water/methanol, regardless of mixtures or pre/post turbo...
By killing the turbos, you mean that the set up you had (pre/post-turbo injection using 50/50 meth or water) injected the fluid at the compressor before the fluid even atomized? This would cause the compressor wheel to erode away or just plain out break over a period of time. I've had this happen a couple of times and the two solutions I found were either lengthen the filter tube (connects the compressor side of the turbo to the filter) or get a finer (smaller cc) nozzle that was able to atomize the fluid before it hit the compressor wheel. For my new project I plan on using the DevilSown AI system using 50/50 mixture (pre/post-turbo set up) with a 3row FMIC, a T-61 turbo running at 15psi, greddy compression tube, aluminum radiator utilizing dual electric fans, and setting this all up with MSII V3.0 EMS that will run the engine and AI. I know for sure that this will get my engine and under hood temps down significantly. Next step would be to get a vented hood.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 07:48 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
Is that by volume or by weight? (30/70)
it was washer fluid so idk
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 12:06 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by xboxthug13b
it was washer fluid so idk
I don't know what to tell you.

I will mention that now Stylemon's car is up to 20psi doing a complete 4th gear pull will yeild a 2C increase in intake temps at the end of the run. However if its just a 3rd gear pull temps will drop down to the 25C range...
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #48  
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have you tried using water and methanol? not washer fluid?
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #49  
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nope only washer fluid, and once pure water
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:09 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by xboxthug13b
nope only washer fluid, and once pure water
That is your problem...

Windshield washer fluid contains a VERY low amount of alcohol. Go get some methanol...

I did some more testing on stylemon's car today. I changed the 500cc nozzel location from post intercooler to pre-turbo and the temps went up 7C. Switched back and they came right back down.. Interesting...
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