Pre Turbo WI vs Post IC WI Dyno Test Results!
There was puddles of water in the ic when I was boosting and during one dyno session, this excessive amounts of water was getting forced into the engine, after this I found the WI check valve oring problem and fixed it. At the same time as this is when I removed the primary injector diffusers. The grooves in the rotor housings we were debating what caused them, I thought it could have been from all the extra water going through my engine for a couple days, washing away the cheaper 2 stroke oil, after this I did a compression check and it was a little low, and power was done alittle on the dyno.
Months later, the corner seals broke during drag racing due to detonation, little too lean and not enough WI at the time.
When I removed the injector diffusers, I did not break them, they came out all good in one piece. The tune did not change. I made sure the injectors were plugged in good, if one was not working it would have been running lean and would have blown up pretty quick I would guess. The car was still running strong, ran a 10.46 when the corner seals broke right after shifting into 4th gear, but it was showing a little drop off in power on the dyno a few months before this after the wi check valve problem and diffusers being removed.
I will run better 2 stroke oil next time, and more of it.
Months later, the corner seals broke during drag racing due to detonation, little too lean and not enough WI at the time.
When I removed the injector diffusers, I did not break them, they came out all good in one piece. The tune did not change. I made sure the injectors were plugged in good, if one was not working it would have been running lean and would have blown up pretty quick I would guess. The car was still running strong, ran a 10.46 when the corner seals broke right after shifting into 4th gear, but it was showing a little drop off in power on the dyno a few months before this after the wi check valve problem and diffusers being removed.
I will run better 2 stroke oil next time, and more of it.
Post #35
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=1590
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 87
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From: Stockholm
There was puddles of water in the ic when I was boosting and during one dyno session, this excessive amounts of water was getting forced into the engine, after this I found the WI check valve oring problem and fixed it. At the same time as this is when I removed the primary injector diffusers. The grooves in the rotor housings we were debating what caused them, I thought it could have been from all the extra water going through my engine for a couple days, washing away the cheaper 2 stroke oil, after this I did a compression check and it was a little low, and power was done alittle on the dyno.
Months later, the corner seals broke during drag racing due to detonation, little too lean and not enough WI at the time.
When I removed the injector diffusers, I did not break them, they came out all good in one piece. The tune did not change. I made sure the injectors were plugged in good, if one was not working it would have been running lean and would have blown up pretty quick I would guess. The car was still running strong, ran a 10.46 when the corner seals broke right after shifting into 4th gear, but it was showing a little drop off in power on the dyno a few months before this after the wi check valve problem and diffusers being removed.
I will run better 2 stroke oil next time, and more of it.
Months later, the corner seals broke during drag racing due to detonation, little too lean and not enough WI at the time.
When I removed the injector diffusers, I did not break them, they came out all good in one piece. The tune did not change. I made sure the injectors were plugged in good, if one was not working it would have been running lean and would have blown up pretty quick I would guess. The car was still running strong, ran a 10.46 when the corner seals broke right after shifting into 4th gear, but it was showing a little drop off in power on the dyno a few months before this after the wi check valve problem and diffusers being removed.
I will run better 2 stroke oil next time, and more of it.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 91
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From: Norway
as i wrote before, those markings on your housing is made by exessive heat, too little water over a period of time to cool the combustion. nothing to do with to much water. read what everyone is saying.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Australia
Ok... Well i am really wanting to do both pre turbine and post inter cooler injection to take advantage of both the improvements.
I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,489
Likes: 4
From: Pittsburgh, PA
thanks everyone for your thoughts and info. I am finally getting the engine rebuilt. My engine builder says everything doesn't look as bad as expected and we will see if the rotary housings can be resurfaced.
Ok... Well i am really wanting to do both pre turbine and post inter cooler injection to take advantage of both the improvements.
I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
Ok... Well i am really wanting to do both pre turbine and post inter cooler injection to take advantage of both the improvements.
I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
Then you have the extra complexity of your system that increases the failure potential.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,489
Likes: 4
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Air filter also makes a huge difference. There are wet and dry style filters out there. Ive seen too many engines (rotary and piston) where the customer blames the builder for a engine that they built.
A wet filter has to be lubricated or it will allow dirt to enter the engine.
A wet filter has to be lubricated or it will allow dirt to enter the engine.
I got the car back together and breaking in the engine now, I'm up to 330 miles, revving up to 4-5k rpms and no boost yet. Djseven built the motor, we got the rotor housings resurfaced, replaced the rotors, rebuild kit and ALS seals. I put in the large AEM 550 cc water injector pre turbo and the middle size 315 cc injector after the FMIC, this will be more water than I've ever ran before and I will premix at least 1.5 ounces per gallon when I start boosting, 1oz now. Here are two videos I took to test and make sure everything is working good.
slow motion video -
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