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Pre Turbo WI vs Post IC WI Dyno Test Results!

Old 06-25-12, 03:18 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by tom94RX-7
There was puddles of water in the ic when I was boosting and during one dyno session, this excessive amounts of water was getting forced into the engine, after this I found the WI check valve oring problem and fixed it. At the same time as this is when I removed the primary injector diffusers. The grooves in the rotor housings we were debating what caused them, I thought it could have been from all the extra water going through my engine for a couple days, washing away the cheaper 2 stroke oil, after this I did a compression check and it was a little low, and power was done alittle on the dyno.

Months later, the corner seals broke during drag racing due to detonation, little too lean and not enough WI at the time.

When I removed the injector diffusers, I did not break them, they came out all good in one piece. The tune did not change. I made sure the injectors were plugged in good, if one was not working it would have been running lean and would have blown up pretty quick I would guess. The car was still running strong, ran a 10.46 when the corner seals broke right after shifting into 4th gear, but it was showing a little drop off in power on the dyno a few months before this after the wi check valve problem and diffusers being removed.

I will run better 2 stroke oil next time, and more of it.
I'm not saying that any of those things actually happened, i'm saying there's many other things that explain what happened better than the water. There is no way the water in the intercooler could cause damage. There just isn't enough force to push it in fast enough. Plenty of guys run massive amounts of water injection in high boost engines. Now maybe you could lose power on the run due to the ignition system not being up to it, but once the problem was fixed with the water the power should come back up. Maybe your engine was losing power from bad plugs and the engine failure later was something else. It's just not possible the water in the intercooler could fill the engine like a water hose.
Old 06-25-12, 02:57 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
Then you have loud mouth rice racing who despite his in your face marketing has numerous logs of different cars running 25+ psi on water only.
LOL... Peter is pretty out there. In his build thread over at the Aquamist Forum he admits switching over to a methanol water mix and outlines that he will likely never go back to just water. Last update was 36psi, I believe.

Post #35
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...ead.php?t=1590
Old 06-25-12, 03:16 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by tom94RX-7
There was puddles of water in the ic when I was boosting and during one dyno session, this excessive amounts of water was getting forced into the engine, after this I found the WI check valve oring problem and fixed it. At the same time as this is when I removed the primary injector diffusers. The grooves in the rotor housings we were debating what caused them, I thought it could have been from all the extra water going through my engine for a couple days, washing away the cheaper 2 stroke oil, after this I did a compression check and it was a little low, and power was done alittle on the dyno.

Months later, the corner seals broke during drag racing due to detonation, little too lean and not enough WI at the time.

When I removed the injector diffusers, I did not break them, they came out all good in one piece. The tune did not change. I made sure the injectors were plugged in good, if one was not working it would have been running lean and would have blown up pretty quick I would guess. The car was still running strong, ran a 10.46 when the corner seals broke right after shifting into 4th gear, but it was showing a little drop off in power on the dyno a few months before this after the wi check valve problem and diffusers being removed.

I will run better 2 stroke oil next time, and more of it.
I wouldn´t premix less then 1,5% to fuel. 1 OZ/gal is about 0,79%... In my opinion way too little for a 550 hp high reving race engine...
Old 07-06-12, 12:25 AM
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as i wrote before, those markings on your housing is made by exessive heat, too little water over a period of time to cool the combustion. nothing to do with to much water. read what everyone is saying.
Old 03-14-13, 06:45 AM
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Ok... Well i am really wanting to do both pre turbine and post inter cooler injection to take advantage of both the improvements.

I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
Old 03-14-13, 08:39 AM
  #181  
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thanks everyone for your thoughts and info. I am finally getting the engine rebuilt. My engine builder says everything doesn't look as bad as expected and we will see if the rotary housings can be resurfaced.
Old 03-15-13, 11:45 AM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by AUS-FD3S
Ok... Well i am really wanting to do both pre turbine and post inter cooler injection to take advantage of both the improvements.

I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
Yea....sure. I've been doing it the way you describe--with good results--for a couple of years now.
Old 03-21-13, 11:34 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by AUS-FD3S
Ok... Well i am really wanting to do both pre turbine and post inter cooler injection to take advantage of both the improvements.

I have an idea... Could i benefit from both methods by running a pressure valve feeding the pre turbo injector, say set at 13psi, my theory is to restrict it from injecting water into the turbo until I am at full boost?
I would not then sacrifice the spool up that is seen with pre turbo injection, thus achieve good torque at low rpm from post inter cooler injection, then a full boost pre turbo injection kick and improve top end BHP?
Tom mentioned his apprehension about what happens when you shift and the lag affect of WI starting up again. He is using 5 psi start point. 13 psi start if only for the air filter would really makes it more possible that this leaning out could occur.
Then you have the extra complexity of your system that increases the failure potential.
Old 03-21-13, 11:42 PM
  #184  
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Ya my engine did blow last year right after I shifted into 4th gear.. I wonder if any WI lag may have contributed to it.
Old 06-10-13, 01:59 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by silverfdturbo6port
Air filter also makes a huge difference. There are wet and dry style filters out there. Ive seen too many engines (rotary and piston) where the customer blames the builder for a engine that they built.
A wet filter has to be lubricated or it will allow dirt to enter the engine.
I was using a k&n air filter and recently realized it was supposed to be oiled but it was not oiled (stupid), not good..

I got the car back together and breaking in the engine now, I'm up to 330 miles, revving up to 4-5k rpms and no boost yet. Djseven built the motor, we got the rotor housings resurfaced, replaced the rotors, rebuild kit and ALS seals. I put in the large AEM 550 cc water injector pre turbo and the middle size 315 cc injector after the FMIC, this will be more water than I've ever ran before and I will premix at least 1.5 ounces per gallon when I start boosting, 1oz now. Here are two videos I took to test and make sure everything is working good.


slow motion video -
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