pre-turbo injection
I only run water. I used to mix methanol with water (50/50) but focused on 100% water and have done for a long time now, all of my results are based of that alone v's any blends.
If anyone needs advice feel free to PM me whatever your requirement might be and I will try to help you out
If anyone needs advice feel free to PM me whatever your requirement might be and I will try to help you out
I forgot to answer the specific question will it give you a benifit? even if tuned to not detonate.
To not detonate at upper regions of performance EGT will still be high, the ONLY reason its low on things like methanol or blends of it are because so damn much of the stuff goes through the engine!!!! simple AFR ratios show this graphicaly, thus its a function of volume of fuel that cools the engine.
Running petrol has the same function *when run in correct ratios for turbo rotaries* (though no where near as good as lots of alcohol) but still EGT can be very high, water is the only thing (practical thing) that can make a BIG difference to this, also if your on the limit of your turbo it can increase the window of performance, documented alot over many decades in aviation (both reciprocating and turbine) so you can go read about it.
If for nothing else its a great saftey blanket when your in the region of justifying such a mod/addition to your cars set up, in a very basic pre turbo pneumatic set up all you need to do is fill the tank and thats it, if your racing and everything in your car needs to pull its weight *literaly* then you either increase the performance to justify the weight of the WI system or you increase the durability of your set up (in many cases you do both) BUT for people who just want another saftey margin or who want to be able to run the cheapest most basic fuel well there is *reasons* to apply it even if it wont give you a net HP gain for the same given conditions.
In a basic daily car that makes 350~380rwhp say I would not bother running it, you can use fuel dumping to give you saftey margin, its horses for courses. But if you want to go beating on it like a maniac in 35 deg C ambient conditions on a long mountain climb you may find the WI will even be needed on this occasion even on moderate power levels.
Turbo cars are very fragile and many excuses abound as to why owners cant use the full potential, with pre turbo WI you quickly run out of the need to provide excuses

*no high oct fuel
*too hot weather
*no race plugs
*no meth
*blah blah blah
hahaha
so yeah you end up running
*pure meth (best- most amount of fuel cooling)
*blend petrol and meth (next highest amount of fuel cooling)
*very rich petrol settings (lots of fuel but not as much as above)
*** rich on petrol but with water injection which is most efficient and gives almost as good results as running 100% methanol in terms of the amount of EGT drop and managable/favourable engine condtions (though it is much harder to ignite, hence lots give up on it) let alone the fact its water and thats not natural to make power
To not detonate at upper regions of performance EGT will still be high, the ONLY reason its low on things like methanol or blends of it are because so damn much of the stuff goes through the engine!!!! simple AFR ratios show this graphicaly, thus its a function of volume of fuel that cools the engine.
Running petrol has the same function *when run in correct ratios for turbo rotaries* (though no where near as good as lots of alcohol) but still EGT can be very high, water is the only thing (practical thing) that can make a BIG difference to this, also if your on the limit of your turbo it can increase the window of performance, documented alot over many decades in aviation (both reciprocating and turbine) so you can go read about it.
If for nothing else its a great saftey blanket when your in the region of justifying such a mod/addition to your cars set up, in a very basic pre turbo pneumatic set up all you need to do is fill the tank and thats it, if your racing and everything in your car needs to pull its weight *literaly* then you either increase the performance to justify the weight of the WI system or you increase the durability of your set up (in many cases you do both) BUT for people who just want another saftey margin or who want to be able to run the cheapest most basic fuel well there is *reasons* to apply it even if it wont give you a net HP gain for the same given conditions.
In a basic daily car that makes 350~380rwhp say I would not bother running it, you can use fuel dumping to give you saftey margin, its horses for courses. But if you want to go beating on it like a maniac in 35 deg C ambient conditions on a long mountain climb you may find the WI will even be needed on this occasion even on moderate power levels.
Turbo cars are very fragile and many excuses abound as to why owners cant use the full potential, with pre turbo WI you quickly run out of the need to provide excuses

*no high oct fuel
*too hot weather
*no race plugs
*no meth
*blah blah blah
hahaha
so yeah you end up running
*pure meth (best- most amount of fuel cooling)
*blend petrol and meth (next highest amount of fuel cooling)
*very rich petrol settings (lots of fuel but not as much as above)
*** rich on petrol but with water injection which is most efficient and gives almost as good results as running 100% methanol in terms of the amount of EGT drop and managable/favourable engine condtions (though it is much harder to ignite, hence lots give up on it) let alone the fact its water and thats not natural to make power
Last edited by RICE RACING; Jun 27, 2007 at 09:48 AM.
I added comments in red
I think rice has got this subject covered pretty well
I think rice has got this subject covered pretty well
Benefits being initial impact being against the durable (more so then the blades that is) nut? As well as the water being able to efficetively sweep across the entire blade, cooling the blade and air charge the whole way?
Am I following correctly? YES, its the common thought that damage if any is because of larger water molecules hitting the edge of the compressor wheel like sand. Think of riding a bike in the rain and being cooled off and then riding in a fog, the rain hurts, the fog has a colling effect without any pain. Its also suggested that even with a fine mist injected further upstream that water droplets are reformulating closer to the turbo inlet at some point and then these bigger water droplets are doing damage. IMO if pre-turbo is done correctly without trying to cut corners theres plenty of power to made with little possible damage
What car/turbo? Dodge SRT-4 with stock turbo (have upgraded since then). plenty of torque down low and spool is pretty quick but later on down the track in 5th gear you wish it was pulling like at the start. Call still pulls really hard in 2nd and 3rd and a bad driver can chase down a similarly powered opponent with better traction, but you wish there were more when going into 4th and 5th.
Am I following correctly? YES, its the common thought that damage if any is because of larger water molecules hitting the edge of the compressor wheel like sand. Think of riding a bike in the rain and being cooled off and then riding in a fog, the rain hurts, the fog has a colling effect without any pain. Its also suggested that even with a fine mist injected further upstream that water droplets are reformulating closer to the turbo inlet at some point and then these bigger water droplets are doing damage. IMO if pre-turbo is done correctly without trying to cut corners theres plenty of power to made with little possible damage
What car/turbo? Dodge SRT-4 with stock turbo (have upgraded since then). plenty of torque down low and spool is pretty quick but later on down the track in 5th gear you wish it was pulling like at the start. Call still pulls really hard in 2nd and 3rd and a bad driver can chase down a similarly powered opponent with better traction, but you wish there were more when going into 4th and 5th.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,831
Likes: 2
From: Hagersville Ontario
I'm running a stubby KN filter...overall length is 4".....(same filter as GoodfellaFD3S if you want a reference) I had planned on centering a single nozzle in the filter's cap......close enough? too close?
Oh and thanks for the input.......
Well from what I can see there's no proof yet to a known best spot for the jet other then the common concenses is to get it very close to the nutt as possible/within reason....so its your call OR rice should chime in since he's done this and I have yet to.
hey mate read the first couple of posts and skiped through to the end maybe this has been covered but I will explain my set up maybe it will help but it is VERY basic. A few years ago I ran a draw through set up. this is old ****, but when I was street racing I would pull up to check on the car and the intake to the plenum was iced up. ( this may be hard to read cause I'm half pissed) yes it ***** up the turbo, but running s4 turbos it wasn't hard to replace them for under $100 aus. I played round with set ups for years before I found microtec. bla bla My set up: 2" su carb
two stage meth injection, the two stage was made possible with the use of HOBBS switches ( excuse me if you know) but a HOOBS switch is a boost controled switch. the first hoobs was set at 7psi and would inject water through a small injector the secound would conect at 15psi and would inject meth to two nos foggers. the amount was controled buy a dash light dimmer to control the speed of the motor. I forgot to say I was using a s2 rx7 and using the head light washer as the secondary meth injection tank. I hope this help you or anyone. my car hammered at the time but be carefull of the intercolling effect, that is ( too much meth not enough fuel hard to understand but after 3 motors I learnt if the intake is too cold there isnt enogh fuel, but thats draw through.) efi?
two stage meth injection, the two stage was made possible with the use of HOBBS switches ( excuse me if you know) but a HOOBS switch is a boost controled switch. the first hoobs was set at 7psi and would inject water through a small injector the secound would conect at 15psi and would inject meth to two nos foggers. the amount was controled buy a dash light dimmer to control the speed of the motor. I forgot to say I was using a s2 rx7 and using the head light washer as the secondary meth injection tank. I hope this help you or anyone. my car hammered at the time but be carefull of the intercolling effect, that is ( too much meth not enough fuel hard to understand but after 3 motors I learnt if the intake is too cold there isnt enogh fuel, but thats draw through.) efi?
In my SP rx7 the water atomizer is located in the carbon air box just after the air filter where it does a great job of reducing the pre turbo pipe temperatures and increasing air flow rates.
In the 500+rwhp AI club thread there is a photo of a tight instal where the user put my atomizer into the based of the air filter mounted of the compressor housing works very well ............ sometimes you can only do what is practical rather than ideal.
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