efiniste

Finally got started putting this in the car today. I've had the various parts wired up together for a while but never got around to actually fitting it.

First up, fitted the UK spec rear washer bottle that I'll be using as a water tank. This goes right across the rear of the car and from memory holds about 6 litres (I've had it sitting in the garage for so long I can't remember how much water it'll take).

The Aquamist fittings that come with the kit each need a 22mm hole in the tank. I've positioned the water feed at the lowest point. The tank (hopefully) manages to avoid surge by having a restriction point between the two halves. This should mean that the water feed will get a constant supply until the level is very low. I've positioned the level switch a couple of inches to the right of the water feed. I was pretty limited on choice of positions with this tank as the level switch is quite long so it wouldn't fit in the ideal position. I'll have to see how it goes once everything's up and running.

I positioned the pump in the rear left hand corner of the boot. I'm after as stealth an install as possible so there's no water lines running through the boot. I used the rear vent to run the feed from the tank through. It's slightly higher than I'd have liked but the choice of locations is limited. The only way I can see to get a cleaner and lower install is to do away with the spare, something I'm not keen on doing until I really have to.

I've attached a couple of pics with the trim back in place and also with the carpet etc. reinstalled.

Next up is wiring and running the water line through to the engine bay.

Steve

cozmo kraemer

Where can I get the Euro windshield washer tank? I wanted to use that location but couldn't get a tank to fit.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Holy **** that UK spec rear washer tank is HUGE! I've been wondering what to use for a tank when I install my HFS-5 kit in my FD. I think you just solved that search for me.

Very nice clean install. Too bad you couldn't tuck the pump away out of view like the tank though.

efiniste

I'll dig out the part number for the tank tonight. There's still a price listed for it by Mazda over here so I'll make some enquiries as to availability. I had to fill a few holes in it as there's 4 different pumps for the various washer systems on the UK spec.
The pump location is a tricky one as it needs to be pretty close to the tank outlet. It may be possible to put it behind that panel but then it'll get too hot as there's not much room for air movement behind there. I may fabricate a meshed cover for it, just to make it a bit less obvious and to give it some protection from things sliding around in the boot.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Nice!

What will you be spraying? straight water?

efiniste

yep, straight water.

efiniste

Part number for the tank is FD13-51-821B. It's not cheap though (as with all OEM parts!). £89 + taxes (so about $200 ish) is the latest price I have, and that's a couple of years old at least. Might be worth seeing if Ray Crowe at Malloy can get hold of them.

Steve

cozmo kraemer

I got a five liter tank I am going to attach to my subwoofer box for $10. I think I will use that!

Richard L

I am most impressed with the tank arrangement. If only Shuflo makes the pump smaller...

Well, it seemes the HFS-5 is slowly being used after 10 months on.

efiniste

Some progress this weekend.

Ran the water line and signal wires through to the front of the car. I used the plastic loom "box" that runs along the base of the cabin, passenger side (RHD) for both. It was a tight fit but they do just about go in. If you need to run the power line to the front too then you'd probably struggle to get everything in there.

Installed the relay next to the pump. I had the option to hide this and the fuse for the pump power cable behind the cargo area panels but decided, in the interests of serviceability, to mount it right next to the pump. I didn't fancy having to strip the interior down again just to change the fuse!

Ran the pump power cable underneath the bins to my driver's side bin mounted battery.

Pulled the water line, HSV wiring and flow sensor wiring through the bulkhead into the engine bay. I removed my aircon a while back so i used the top hole of the two that are left empty (bottom hole is used by my battery positive lead).

Connected up the 2 earth wires, 2 injector signal wires and the DDS-3 power lead. I'd previously wired up the rest of the components to save me from trying to do it all in the footwell so the 5 wires were the only ones I needed to connect.

Powered up and lo and behold it all seems to work! DDS3 gauge lit up and showed me that the water level was low (as it should do, there's none in the tank yet!) so I set about calibrating the summer box to my injector sizes.
If I've read the instructions correctly the primary circuit needs to output 0.55v (for a 550cc injector) while the secondary circuit needs to output 1.6v (for a 1600cc injector). Once they're done then the "summed" circuit needs to output 5v. All readings taken with the test button depressed (to simulate 100% Injector Duty).

I ran out of time at this point so next on the list is:

Test the system is working with the engine running and water in the tank.

Connect the failsafe to the boost controller. I run a Profec B Spec II so I'm trying to figure out how the hi/lo optional external switch works. If I can wire this in correctly I should be able to flick to the lo boost setting in the event of a WI failure. (Anyone any details on how the switch works?).

Connect the dimmer wire to dim the gauge when car lights are turned on.

Tidy up the wiring and mount the components in the footwell.

Mount the nozzle in the IC piping and relocate my AIT to the IC output.

Fit a fuse in the pump power line at the battery end. Although fused already, it's fitted at the pump end of the wiring, leaving a run of unfused cable from the battery to the pump in the event of a blow.

No extra pics yet. I'll add some when I get chance to get back in the garage.

Steve

blitzboy

Nice one Steve good write up, will rewire my HFS5 when I get my car back with the new summer, I wired my failsafe to switch off the boost controller and run wastegate pressure but didnt like it to much that way, so in the same boat as you and figure out the Hi\Lo setting of the Profec B

efiniste

Thanks Mark. What did you not like about tapping into the boost controller power line? I must admit, I think it's a bit crude if nothing else. Were there any other problems?

Did a bit of research last night. It seems the Profec remote switch can be replicated with any momentary switch. All it does is short two contacts out to switch between boost modes. Every time you press it, it'll switch to the opposite mode to whatever it's in. Unfortunately the failsafes on the HFS-5 work in a different way, on all the time until a fault condition causes them to go open circuit.

Richard, if you're still looking in on this, Is there any way to convert the failsafe outputs of the DDS3 to do something similar to the momentary switch?

Steve

efiniste

Might this work?

http://www.simprojects.nl/toggle_to_momentary.htm

Richard L

Hello Steve,

I am concern with momentary switching because they can easily get out of sync if the EBC tpggles.

The DDS3 can be configured to produce a "momentary close contact" without modification when a fault condition occurs.

Before getting into this too deep, please clarify what will happen when the output is triggered again a few seconds later.

efiniste

Hi Richard.

I share your concern but I'd have to physically press a button on the Profec to swap boost modes. As long as I ensure the controller is in "lo" mode before turning on the WI then it should stay in sync.

Does the DDS3 also produce a "momentary close contact" when it comes out of fault mode? If not then it obviously wont work and I'll have to use a variation of the circuit I linked to above. Can you see any problems with energising the circuit from pins 9 and 10?

To clarify, here's how I'm hoping it will work.

Start car and check EBC is in low boost mode. (Low boost mode will be configured to only run wastegate spring boost pressure, currently 10psi).
Turn on WI. Assuming no faults this will switch the EBC to high boost mode using either pins 9 and 10 or 11 and 12. (High boost mode runs at 14.5psi currently).
EBC will stay in high boost mode until either:

WI is turned off.
A fault condition occurs.

Either scenario will toggle the EBC back into low boost mode.

Once the fault has cleared, the EBC will switch back into high boost mode which could cause problems depending on the nature of the fault, but woudn't this happen anyway with the standard option of cutting the power to the EBC in the event of a fault?


Now, I think this is possible with the additional circuit but I'd obviously like to avoid that if the DDS3 already has the capability to do it for me.

Let me know if you can see any obvious flaws in the above and thanks again for your input.

Steve

efiniste

Right, I think I've hit my first problem.

When turning on the ignition (before starting the engine) the pump starts to run. Makes no difference whether the DDS3 gauge is turned on or off.
Although the pump is running, it doesn't actually pump any water out of the nozzle.
If I turn the DDS3 on then the following happens:
On the summer box the AI LED (left most one as you look at it) is on but has a slight "flicker". ie it's flashing at a very fast rate.
If I press the 100% IDC test button, both injector LED's light up, the AI LED goes constant and the nozzle starts pumping water. The DDS3 also registers the flow on its bar chart.

So, aside from the pump running constantly, it appears to be functioning correctly.
Is the pump supposed to power up and run constantly?

All of the above is done without the engine running, just ignition on. I can't get the car out of the garage at the moment due to the bloody weather!

Steve

Richard L

What trigger mode is the DDS3 set to?

efiniste

Doh! Thanks Richard. Could have sworn I'd already checked that. It was set to MPS. Now working fine.
The 100% idc button now triggers the pump (and water) whether the DDS3 is on or off though. Is that right? I've not set any of the pots on the gauge yet. The trigger pot in the DDS3 box is set all the way anti-clockwise.
I'll get some testing done tomorrow, out of time tonight.

thanks again, Richard.

Steve

efiniste

Right, update after this morning's testing.

For info, I'm using the 0.8 nozzle and the smallest restrictor. Flow testing done using the 100% IDC button on the summer box.

My adjustment pots on the DDS3 gauge don't seem to be functioning correctly. The SC pot does nothing until the last 2 clicks of its travel (clockwise) at which point it turns off the WI (pump stops, summer LED and DDS3 board LED both go off, injextor LEDs remain lit).
The WL pot looks to be adjusting the Sensor Calibration. On turning clockwise the bar graph lights up more bars but only up to a point. I've been unable to get it to light more than 5 bars.
The WH pot appears to be doing nothing. The "B" never lights (and hasn't done throughout testing).

The W. Injection LED comes on when the gauge is powered up but doesn't get any brighter when the flow is triggered.

The S lights up and the gauge does register some flow when the IDC test button is pressed. It hits 3 bars as injection starts then drops down to 2 bars for as long as the button is pressed.


I've been out for a drive with the nozzle clipped to the windscreen and observed the following:

Primary injector LED pulses in synch with the primary injectors.
Secondary LED lights as the secondaries come online
The Summer LED doesn't light until the pump kicks in.

The pump and water flow kicks in regardless of whether the DDS3 gauge is turned on or off. The button on the gauge is not disabling the WI system.

I've checked the wiring inside the DDS3 box and all appears to be fine (I've even had my wife check that the colours match, in case I was overlooking anything).

Any ideas what could be causing these problems?

Steve

Richard L

Hello Steve,

It appears that the 4-core wire from the flow sensor could have mixed up with the 4-core cable from the pump relay.

I have seen this unusual situation before. Can I give you a ring and do some real time diagnostics?

It will be handy if you have a digital voltmeter.

efiniste

No problem Richard, I've sent you a pm with my number.

thanks,

Steve

efiniste

Quick update.

Had to return the gauge to Richard as there was a fault with it. Installed the replacement last night and everything is working as it should. Only had time for a quick test drive but all of the faults listed above have disappeared.

Now to tidy up the wiring.

I have some more pictures to add too, hopefully I'll get chance tonight

efiniste

Another update:

Everything is installed and working fine. The various boxes are now in the glove compartment and the one minor issue I had outstanding was sorted with a quick phone call to Richard and a slap of my own forehead (Tip: If you're colourblind like I am, get someone else to check your wiring!).

Initial impressions:

No more knock!
Since rebuilding this engine I've always had the Power FC flash its knock light at me when spooling up. AFR's looked fine so I put it down to the harder engine mounts creating some harmonics/vibrations and setting the knock sensor off. It's always made me wary of booting it though as I blew my last engine through excessive knock (at the top end).
Running the smallest water jet (0.8) into my Greddy elbow and the knock light has disappeared completely.
No detrimental effect on power either as far as I can tell. Although, as stated above, I'm not injecting a huge amount of water as yet.

Unfortunately, we're having some building work done at home so the FD has gone off to live at my in-laws for the duration. This has meant that I've not been able to log any intake temp changes or flow rates as yet. Once the car's back home I'll be playing about with jet sizes, possibly adding another, and leaning out the tune to take advantage of the water.

Just to add one more thing. This may look to the uninitiated like a complicated kit and to some extent it is. However, the support I've received from Richard whenever I've hit a problem has been second to none. The man clearly believes in his product and listens to and takes onboard feedback like no-one else I've ever had experience of. He's also been on hand to help at, frankly, silly times of day and night and has turned around faulty parts in next to no time to help keep my install on track. I've been very impressed with the quality of the kit and the quality of the people behind it.

Steve

DRAGON_PERFORMANCE

Yes I can agree, Richard has been incredibly helpful, and has a real enthusiasm. I would go Aquamist, not just for the quality of the kit, but also for the customer support. The convenience of being able to contact someone who has the knowledge is worth every penny.

cozmo kraemer

I will absolutely 100%, second and third this! Aquamist is awesome! And Richard is a huge help. It took some time to get that FD summer done, but he worked through it with me every time I needed his help...even late into his night.

I am looking for a way to use an Aquamist product on my LS6...