Sandro

iTrader: (1)

I bought a Coolingmist basic system with the smart controller and would like your advice on properly setting it.

Background:
- car is a '93 R1 dedicated autoxer, i.e. 30-60 sec runs in 2nd gear, then stop and spray IC and intake, radiator and oil coolers
- I am preparing the car within the SCCA Street Prepared rules
- WI allowed but not methanol
- right now, stock IC, main cat, a modified (Adam's) air box, downpipe, and N1 dual exhaust
- as per rules, I have to keep stock turbos but can play with control system, I have PFC

I went autoxing Sat and Sun fro the first time with downpipe, modified airbox, PFC, set boost at 10 psi. Also have AFX air/fuel monitor

Hot days, ambient temp 80 and above

On 12 runs Sat, avg. air charge temperature was 77 C, with a 84 peak

Sunday, I dropped boost 1 psi and got 64 deg C average and 69 deg C peak

After upgrading fuel delivery, my goal is to eventually increase boost to what could be reasonably achieved with stock turbos, and possibly rely on WI to keep air charge temperature within a safe range. Data above clearly show how sensitive charge temperature is to boost, 13 deg C for a 1 psi change!

I was thinking on controlling WI based on air temperature at the IC outlet (and possibly with rpm and or intake pressure interlocks)

What would it be a "safe" temperature setting for activating WI?

And, more generally, do you think this would be a good controlling strategy or would you recommend something else or different?

Thanks

- Sandro

coolingmist

I believe air temp is a fantastic input to use, however I do not believe in Air temp as the sole input. If you plan to integrate air temp, please integrate RPM or TPS or MAP. When you are heatsoaked at idle you dont want to inject, if you use AIR TEMP as your sole injection you will. Using Air temp is great if you are concerned about air temps, you can integrate RPM and use an "AND" condition. This will be great for saving water, as it will inject at your threshold as long as you are at a certain RPM (or boost if you choose boost).

lastly, you can do some really, really cool things if you want to play. For example, you have 5 outputs. You can set the outputs to pulse on/off. You can do upto 25 seconds. This is a great way to get a progressive flow, but full pressure at the pump at all times. Atomization cant be matched by any progressive system. how to set this up?

here is a scenerio, since you can control 5 outputs independently of each other and based on any conditions you want...and make them inject based on a dutycycle you can do something like....

Make output 1 pulse on for 1 second off for 4 seconds when temp is between 80 F and 90F and RPM > 1000. This gives 20 %dutycycle.

Make output #2 pulse on for 4 seconds off for 4 seconds. this gives you 50% dutycycle. Maybe this one makes sure temps are between 91 and 100F and rpm > 2000.

Make output #3 pulse on for 8 seconds and off for 5 seconds when temp is betwee and rpm > 2500, this gives you about 62 % dutycycle.

Make output #4 pulse on for 10 seconds and off for 3 seconds when RPM > 4000 and air temp between 101 and 120, this gives you 75% dutycyle.

Make output #5 turn on 100% dutycycle (no pulsing) when you are above 120F and above 5000 RPM.

Obviously the numbers I gave you are just to illustrate an example. you can change to your needs / likings.

How to set this up?

setup your relay to the pump.

87 goes to the pump power, 30 goes to the battery, 86 goes to switched ignition. for 85 you connect ground output 1,2,3,4,5. Connect the solenoid ground to that 85 wire as well.

Ground the black wire from the pump.

sounds complicated? not really, its simple.


Maybe you got something out of this.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Man 60-70C seems really high to me. What are acceptable air temps without WI? My car heatsoaks real bad and while cruising my temps are 48-50C on a 80F high. 60-70C just seems real high. I will be purchasing a Coolingmist kit soon and hopefully it helps out.

Sandro

iTrader: (1)

The default map that came with the PFC adds 0 deg ignition at 60C, 1 degree at 70C, and 3 deg at 80C and above to protect the engine. My understanding is that the same values are used by the stock ECU. This is for a 3rd generation. Since I am planning on using WI for engine protection only, I thought that 70C was a good setpoint. But I am not sure that this would be a good WI control strategy and that is why I have been asking.

- Sandro