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Feeding the Turbo Rotary: Horsepower, Airflow, Fuels

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Old 01-25-10, 09:16 PM
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From my experience water doesn't drastically change or reduce air temps. But it does seem to keep them from sky rocketing. I'm running a relatively small ebay intercooler 12X24 X3 IIRC and even on a long 1st through 4th 23 psi pull my air temps stay about the same through out the pull.

I think when air temps start exceeding the mid 200* F level that water will pull a lot of heat out of the intake charge. The advantage of that is clear in a Water only injected car, but in a car injecting methanol as well I see at least one advantage of reducing the amount of methanol required to pull temps down.

Pre-turbo also has the advantage of becoming extremely well atomized after colliding with the compressor wheel, this makes it easier to ignite the mixture, and from others experience has allowed lower water injected requirements. For what reason I'm not sure.
Old 01-25-10, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
From my experience water doesn't drastically change or reduce air temps. But it does seem to keep them from sky rocketing. I'm running a relatively small ebay intercooler 12X24 X3 IIRC and even on a long 1st through 4th 23 psi pull my air temps stay about the same through out the pull.

I think when air temps start exceeding the mid 200* F level that water will pull a lot of heat out of the intake charge. The advantage of that is clear in a Water only injected car, but in a car injecting methanol as well I see at least one advantage of reducing the amount of methanol required to pull temps down.
If an air temp gets that high, then there's already been a serious problem if one is running a pump fuel. I've seen IAT's on a hot dyno get close to 200*F on a race gas setup and it was still fine even though vastly less efficient than it could be if it were 100* colder. On a pump gas car, I don't like anything 140*F and above. It's begging for pre-ignition knock.

Pre-turbo also has the advantage of becoming extremely well atomized after colliding with the compressor wheel, this makes it easier to ignite the mixture, and from others experience has allowed lower water injected requirements. For what reason I'm not sure.
I still honestly would like to see some more data on this. I've heard the talk but haven't seen anything demonstrated that would show definitively why it's more preferable than post-turbo. Rx72c? Got anything to add about this? Is pre-turbo done because of siphon-style water injection or is there truly a benefit besides theoretically making the compressor more efficient?

If it's strictly for chopping the air up to better atomize it then that has merit even though I think the external air atomizing nozzle you've run across should do the job.

B
Old 01-25-10, 11:25 PM
  #28  
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Ill chim in since I have used water for a while now.

When I used to run non seq stock twins at 18psi, my air temp used to be around 55c. I added 315ccs of post turbo water and it dropped to about 45c.

On my current setup (GT35/74) which I have tuned for 23psi on 92 pump with 11 a/f, I had about 50c IAT readings. With the addition of 550c water post turbo, it dropped down to around 40c.

Keep in mind also, I am in Hawaii and ambient is on the hot and humid side.

Like mentioned, yes water will cool down the intake charge a bit, but not close to meth, BUT it will serve as a great chamber coolant and nothing can beat it at that. I have high teens to low 20s knock. I think thats more then enough proof of how awesome water is.
Old 01-25-10, 11:30 PM
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Well the external atomizing nozzle is designed for low pressure systems. If it's being run mechanical, driven by the turbocharger it has to be preturbo. Otherwise the pressure would equalize and no water will flow.

As far as the high air temps, i was refering to turbo outlet temps which can be in the 250-300 degree range before any chemical or physical intercooling. I would never allow temps that high in the engine. By cooling the 250-300 degree temps down to 200 with water, it will require less alcohol to cool them to 56 or whatever.
Old 01-25-10, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by WaachBack
Ill chim in since I have used water for a while now.

When I used to run non seq stock twins at 18psi, my air temp used to be around 55c. I added 315ccs of post turbo water and it dropped to about 45c.

On my current setup (GT35/74) which I have tuned for 23psi on 92 pump with 11 a/f, I had about 50c IAT readings. With the addition of 550c water post turbo, it dropped down to around 40c.

Keep in mind also, I am in Hawaii and ambient is on the hot and humid side.
That's significant.

Like mentioned, yes water will cool down the intake charge a bit, but not close to meth, BUT it will serve as a great chamber coolant and nothing can beat it at that. I have high teens to low 20s knock. I think thats more then enough proof of how awesome water is.
I believe it. That's what I am betting on. I'm curious to see before and after EGT's!

B
Old 01-25-10, 11:47 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
Well the external atomizing nozzle is designed for low pressure systems. If it's being run mechanical, driven by the turbocharger it has to be preturbo. Otherwise the pressure would equalize and no water will flow.
Personally, I like the low-pressure setup. It's simplicity is it's genius. Good job on it, Brent. I'll probably duplicate it even though I'll dress it up some as well as and add a couple of other pieces to it (low-level tank sensor, turn-on and low-level LED's, check-valve and filter, and locate the nozzle pre-throttle).

As far as the high air temps, i was refering to turbo outlet temps which can be in the 250-300 degree range before any chemical or physical intercooling. I would never allow temps that high in the engine. By cooling the 250-300 degree temps down to 200 with water, it will require less alcohol to cool them to 56 or whatever.
Ok, makes sense. I misread you, then. The discharge temps on my T70 at 25psi are 296*F. The alcohol volume I sprayed in (about ~1500-1600cc/min or so) took 200* of heat out!

B
Old 01-25-10, 11:52 PM
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You say alcohol, don't you mean methanol??
Old 01-26-10, 12:06 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 84stock
You say alcohol, don't you mean methanol??
In my case, yep. Methyl alcohol.

B
Old 01-26-10, 12:13 AM
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Ditto, very effective in my lower intake under my camden for me, been using it for a couple years now.
Old 01-26-10, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BDC
Personally, I like the low-pressure setup. It's simplicity is it's genius. Good job on it, Brent. I'll probably duplicate it even though I'll dress it up some as well as and add a couple of other pieces to it (low-level tank sensor, turn-on and low-level LED's, check-valve and filter, and locate the nozzle pre-throttle).



Ok, makes sense. I misread you, then. The discharge temps on my T70 at 25psi are 296*F. The alcohol volume I sprayed in (about ~1500-1600cc/min or so) took 200* of heat out!

B
How do you plan on installing the nozzle pre-throttle body? Unless you're running a water pump you won't get any water in the engine with a low pressure system. The low pressure system is run by boost pressure. If 25 psi pressurizes the tank then your pre TB pressure will also be 25 psi, the two pressures will fight each against other (equalize) and you will have zero water going into your engine. You MUST run preturbo, OR install a pump. Won't work otherwise.



Ok, makes sense. I misread you, then. The discharge temps on my T70 at 25psi are 296*F. The alcohol volume I sprayed in (about ~1500-1600cc/min or so) took 200* of heat out!

B
Yeah, I'm saying in your case preturbo water could easily pull about 80* F out, leaving 120*F for the alcohol to pull out = less required alcohol. Maybe instead of 1600cc meth, you could use 800cc and have the same drop in air temps. Just a thought. In practice it could turn out differently.
Old 01-26-10, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
How do you plan on installing the nozzle pre-throttle body? Unless you're running a water pump you won't get any water in the engine with a low pressure system. The low pressure system is run by boost pressure. If 25 psi pressurizes the tank then your pre TB pressure will also be 25 psi, the two pressures will fight each against other (equalize) and you will have zero water going into your engine. You MUST run preturbo, OR install a pump. Won't work otherwise.
Doh! You're right. I didn't think about that.

Yeah, I'm saying in your case preturbo water could easily pull about 80* F out, leaving 120*F for the alcohol to pull out = less required alcohol. Maybe instead of 1600cc meth, you could use 800cc and have the same drop in air temps. Just a thought. In practice it could turn out differently.
Well, even if I do pre-turbo, I'm still sticking with the larger amount of methanol. I'm using it to run big boost on a big turbo... well, trying to.

B
Old 01-26-10, 10:57 AM
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Alright. Screw it. It'll be pre-turbo, then.

B
Old 01-26-10, 11:45 AM
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Lol welcome to the club. Anxious to see the results. Honestly the water depending on injected amount is enough to run big boost on a big turbo. The meth sure won't hurt though, and without the intercooler It's probably required, I don't think the water will cool the intake temps enough without an intercooler. I like to stay under 120*F personally.
Old 01-27-10, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by BDC
Alright. Screw it. It'll be pre-turbo, then.

B
look at bdc, becoming a man and growing hair on his chest.
Old 01-27-10, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
look at bdc, becoming a man and growing hair on his chest.
I would hope so, by now. I'm 37 years old.

B
Old 01-27-10, 03:01 PM
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Some more numbers for the data geeks out there.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fl...eat-d_147.html
http://www.journeytoforever.org/biof...manual1-2.html

Heating Value (BTU/LB)

~Gasoline 19000-20250
Octane 19080-20570
Methyl Alcohol 8640-9770
Ethyl Alcohol 11550-12780

Latent Heat of Vaporization (BTU/LB)

~Gasoline 127-140
Octane 128-141
Methyl Alcohol 473-474
Ethyl Alcohol 361-364
Water 970

300cc/min is 0.6615lbs. 300cc/min of gasoline used as a chamber coolant will extract just over 92BTUs. That's assuming the higher figure of 140btu per pound.

300cc/min of water injection, however, replacing that gasoline, will extract over 640BTUs, which is over 7 times better, still assuming the best gasoline. Using the 127BTU/LB figure, it's over 7.5 times better.

500cc/min will yank about 1070BTUs out.

The equivalent cooling BTUs for methyl alcohol, volume for volume compared to water, are right at half.

B
Attached Thumbnails Feeding the Turbo Rotary: Horsepower, Airflow, Fuels-fig2-2.jpg  
Old 01-27-10, 04:12 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BDC
Carl Byck's old 2nd gen road race car: PT67 compressor w/ 0.81 A/R turbine housing, made 506.5hp to the wheels at roughly 24psi of boost. Injectors were 680/1680 and static rail pressure was 40psi. Datalog shows duty cycles at 7500rpm of 90%. That calc's out to ~4250cc/min of fuel output. Was running 110L race gas at an AFR of about 11 flat:1.

If we were to shave a point of that and go from 11:1 to 12:1 (an 11.1% reduction in fuel injection), that would be a removal of 472cc/min. What's the difference in the cooling BTUs of gasoline to water at 472cc/min?

B
To answer my own question:

472cc/min of gasoline (what the difference is between race gas and pump gasolines for this example I am unaware of) would be 1.04lbs. Using the higher 140BTU/LB cooling figure for gasoline, this comes out to be about 145BTUs. If he were to take the setup, remove that 11.1% in boost to aim for a 12:1 AFR and replace it with 472cc/min of water, he'd be replacing that 145BTUs with a hair over 1000BTUs.

Yeowzer.

B
Old 01-27-10, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BDC
To answer my own question:

472cc/min of gasoline (what the difference is between race gas and pump gasolines for this example I am unaware of) would be 1.04lbs. Using the higher 140BTU/LB cooling figure for gasoline, this comes out to be about 145BTUs. If he were to take the setup, remove that 11.1% in boost to aim for a 12:1 AFR and replace it with 472cc/min of water, he'd be replacing that 145BTUs with a hair over 1000BTUs.

Yeowzer.

B
lol i read that quickly and it sounded like it was a bad situation. I had to read it word for word to understand the reason for the yeowzer.

:-)

Thats pretty compelling in that situation
Old 01-27-10, 04:26 PM
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Seems to be that roughly 100cc/min of WI is required per 100hp when replacing 10% of the overall fuel duty with that water.

B
Old 01-27-10, 06:08 PM
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800cc/min = 1.76lbs gasoline
1600cc/min = 3.52lbs methyl alcohol

246.4 BTUs cooling on the 800cc/min gasoline I yanked. 1668 BTUs cooling with the 1600cc/min of methyl alcohol I put back in the gasoline's place to achieve the target air/fuel ratio. A 30% change out of gasoline with alcohol at 25psi of boost on my setup yielded 6.77 times more chamber cooling. That same degree of cooling is achieved by just over 700cc/min of water injection.

These figures correct? Or, am I mistaken in alcohol's mode of cooling as most of it, if not all, has already flashed into a gas in the hot-air pipe, bringing IAT's down?

B
Old 01-27-10, 09:30 PM
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That is a good question. That maybe the alcohol having already dropped IAT's by 200*F, that it did very little cooling once inside the engine. That could explain why the engine knocked and died despite having a large % of methanol being injected.
Old 01-27-10, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
That is a good question. That maybe the alcohol having already dropped IAT's by 200*F, that it did very little cooling once inside the engine. That could explain why the engine knocked and died despite having a large % of methanol being injected.
Possibly. But even still, the alcohol produces a colder end gas during combustion than gasoline. /shaking head

I'm still trying the pre-turbo WI, though.

B
Old 01-28-10, 12:55 AM
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I was tossing this around in my head also. pre- or post turbo. i keep reading about the pre and i think im going that route also.

what cc nozzel should i get running 15-18psi on pump gas with 550 primaries and 1680 secondaries and a to4r
Old 01-28-10, 06:59 AM
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using the air pump

xzl6b1 thought of using the air pump for the atomizing nozzles. Sounds to me like a good idea to possibly send more air and achieve better atomization...

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=37
Old 01-28-10, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Sandro
xzl6b1 thought of using the air pump for the atomizing nozzles. Sounds to me like a good idea to possibly send more air and achieve better atomization...

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=37
The more I look at Brent's idea the more I really like it. Even though it's got a low-pressure back end to it (it's pneumatic; works off of manifold pressure), using the correct air atomizing nozzle it should and will still work just fine. It's simple, there's very little in the way of electronics (what, a pressure switch, a solenoid, and a couple LED's potentially?), and there's no worry of pump failures. Given the requirements of water injection being low on the actual injection volume end, this setup makes perfect sense. Not to invalidate your idea Sandro, but I think you should look into this one a bit more closely if you haven't.

B


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