Rub20B

erm, no I first switched the stock FC one out with stock FD to make the PFC happy. but I found the raction time of the FD too slow, especially after heatsoak at stoplight and when taking off it would result in a lean spot as the sensor was stlll displaying warm IAT but in reality the air would already be alot cooler. so then I switched the FD one out and used a I think triumph on. it was geen with same treads and bosch connector. has the same curve and open element

orange

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so the triumph one has the same resistance curve as the FD?

Is the curve the same between the FC and FD? I had the understanding they were different!

I'm running a similar setup to you, modified top mount with twin nozzles post turbo. Just trying to get the quickest reacting IAT I can find.

Rub20B

no fc and fd are different resistance


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Triumph-Sprint-ST-955i-air-sensor-/231043140675?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cb3e8c43&vxp=mtr
this is what you want

orange

iTrader: (1)

Cheers!

Rub20B

After 2.5 momths I still do not have the Dynatek unit back, after getting in touch with Dynatek itself it seems in all this time the unit did not even reach them and it lied all the time at the German dealer where I bought the unit.. damnit

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

go stab some ******* with butter knives.

Rub20B

got the dynatek back finally. car is still going strong and maybe we'll dyno it in the following weeks.

Prôdigy2nd

iTrader: (3)

update?


J.

Rub20B

not really, car still goign well.. only turbo has to come of again at the wastegate arm is binded into the stainless bushing I made, therefore its spools a bit late and doesnt reach full boost.. better convinece the owner to get a EFR in there =)

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Nice thanks for all the info. Good thread here

Rub20B

owner brought car in to fix the turbo, only idling on1.5 rotor. rear rotor the small tip cracked of the big part of the 2pc seal.

rotor housing is for the parts bin. rotor and rest of the engine are still mint..

I have not really a clue as to why it detonated.. maybe it boostcreeped, will ask the owner. time for 1 piece seals now

Rub20B

Car is on the road again, installed gt35r with synapse 50mm wastegate and NRS 1 piece seals. this turbo is just a different league than the bnr stage 4. spools much better and top end is wild, even wit .82 T3 housing. running 1.1 bar (16psi) with a lot of water. tried a tank of 95 RON, could advance timing 5 deg before I started to hear a sign of knock so I really have no idea what caused the knock that killed the mazda seal. maybe it was carbon deposit starting to glow? I now dailed back the OMP to 20% and running 1% of 2 stroke premix

now its tuned to run afr in high 10's with following leading timing, does this seem to make any sense? bear in mind that this is for standard condition which is temp after intercooler between 70 and 80 degC. at 120 deg there is a additional retard in timing of 9 deg. split is 13 deg

didnt hit the dyno but we're reaching 80% duty with 550/1680 combo at afr 10.7 at 7-8k rpm

Rub20B

Good investigation on compressor wheel damage caused by droplets.

http://users.telenet.be/veerle_haai/...or_erosion.pdf

Rub20B

Update. Some years later.. the engine again lost the rear rotor. it was running 1 pc NRS 2mm. 1 seal cracked, owner said it happened after giving some light throttle when traffic jam cleared.

could be detonation or maybe pre ignition from glowing carbon buildup? spark plug show no sign at all from detonation.

the question is what seal to put to prevent this from happening in the future? 3mm ceramic? 3mm steel 1 piece?