adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

The previous owner had a very strong preference for OEM stock everything aside from the fan switch mod. It was like working on a new car, it kept me very careful. It took a long time to get everything in there real nice and my back hurt from laying on the door sill.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

tell me about the back prob, i freaken sometimes do the yoga position upside down on the seat to get them, but taking out the seat helps, did it once.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

How did you install the feed for the pump in the tank?

A simple bulkhead? If so, how were you able to tighten the nut that would need to be on the inside of the tank?, I didn't think someone could get their hand in there.

Also, why did you have to install a float, doesn't the tank already have a level sensor for the washer fluid?

Turbo8

iTrader: (17)

I have to thank you for this thread...I basically duplicated your setup. Used the stock windshield tank...mounted the pump vertically off the tow hook with a custom bracket I welded on...but I left the control box under the hood to avoid routing a vacuum hose to the interior.

Everything came out every nicely, very stealth. Only way you could tell I have water/meth injection is the injection nozzle on the TB pipe.

I installed the feed in the stock tank with a bulkhead fitting. It's pretty easy:

Drill your hole and put one nut on one side of the bulkhead fitting.

Get a length of spare 1/4" push lock nylon tubing (at least 8-12 inches long) and insert it into the bulkhead fitting on the opposite end of the nut.

Feed the tubing into the top of the tank and guide it so the tubing comes out of the hole you just drilled for the bulkhead.

Pull the tubing through the hole for the bulkhead, which will pull the bulkhead through the hole.

With the tubing still in the bulkhead, slide the other nut down the tubing and start threading in onto the bulkhead. Pull the tubing firmly to create a good seat and tighten down the external nut.

Once the bulkhead it tight you can remove the spare tubing (or keep it and route it to the inlet of your pump)

Additionally, you can apply sealant to the bulkhead such as Clear RTV to make a very water tight seal.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

You are correct, you can't get your hand or pliers in there to tighten a bulkhead nut from the inside. I drilled the hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bulkhead that came with the AEM tank. It has metal threads and "self-taps" threads into the OEM washer tank. Use a "uni-bit" to get the right size hole but read my write-up because I'm pretty sure I posted the hole size. After I threaded the pick-up in once I backed it out and applied three-bond to the threads and the flat portion of the pickup that will press against the tank when tightened. Let it dry for 24 hours and it will not leak since there will never be any pressure on the tank.


Float:
The tank does not have a level sensor for the washer fluid, and even if it did, you need a signal going to the AEM controller so that it lets you know when your out of juice. For me it would not really make a difference because my car is stock, for people who rely on the injection for fuel enrichment and knock control it could be a major issue if you ran dry. Use the float either way because the controller needs a signal.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

Now that is a good idea, I wish I had thought of that, great work on getting the bulkhead nut tightened.

Turbo8

iTrader: (17)

Thanks. This is probably my 3rd or 4th water/meth install on various cars (love the stuff) so I got some tricks. A friend shows me that once and I always amaze people when I tell them how I can tighten an internal nut on the bulkhead haha.

jonnyrx7

iTrader: (9)

does anyone know if you can run AEM or any meth setup with an aftermarket ecu vs standalone.... (i dont want to turn for the meth to get more power....if lets say the pump fails and your overboost....bang)

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

if you are at stock boost levels there have been several that have run water and not tuned for it. if you change the boost at all or if you have any significant breathing mods (full exhaust and downpipe) you should tune no matter what.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

With the AEM system you can set it up with your aftermarket ECU to limit boost if you run out of fluid or the system is not pumping for some reason. It has some sort of failsafe system for those who rely on meth/water to keep them from damaging their engine. If you don't want to use that feature, or if you're running a stock ECU, you just don't connect the wire to anything.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

How do all these AI systems compare?

I have the trunk mount Coolingmist kit already but haven't installed it yet. I know there is the AEM kit, Coolingmist and Aquamist.

Sideo

just got my aem kit ill post pics of mine when im done installing

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

They all do basically the same thing. I found the AEM kit to have the most features for the price. Aquamist is supposed to be really good but also expensive. I don't think you can go wrong with any that you listed.

$lacker

iTrader: (9)

Great looking install

chiefboon

Always a good thread and love the stealth look.

One concern I would like to raise -- how big of an issue is it that the reservoir can get pretty warm (100+ degrees F) compared to a tank that is otherwise mounted in the cabin / hatch area (70-80 degrees F)? Is this a negligible variance if I am planning to just inject distilled water or would be the cooling properties be materially different?

Thanks.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I use the stock WS washer tank (thanks again adamsrs80), but never taken temperature readings. What is your source for the 100 F. figure? And after sitting inside the "cabin/hatch" on a sunny summer day, what is your source for the 70 to 80 F. figure? Since the tank doesn't actually sit in the engine bay, but is outside of it, I actually think those respective numbers could be reversed.
Regardless, water has a pretty good specific heat and I don't see it making a huge difference in in the combustion chamber....which is where water performs best. You could inject boiling water and it's still going to phase-change...absorbing alot of heat.

If your goal is cooling the intake air, methanol or methanol/water mix is more effective and you'd probably want to move the injector to pre-turbo or at least pre-IC. That usually requires more sophisticated management along with more capacity as well.

adamrs80

iTrader: (7)

I think Sgtblue made the point very well

"Regardless, water has a pretty good specific heat and I don't see it making a huge difference in in the combustion chamber....which is where water performs best. You could inject boiling water and it's still going to phase-change...absorbing alot of heat."

It's the phase change that causes the big temp drop. I don't doubt that cool water might have some effect but I think you'd need to have an Intake Air Temp sensor and be able to do back-to-back runs with warm water vs. cool water to be able to measure any difference.

If your car is a touring you could use the rear washer tank, that would be cooler water but I'm not sure that the tank is big enough nor would i want to run water line under the carpet.

If I had to do it all over again I would still install the AEM system using the washer tank exactly the same way. I don't want to be filling a separate tank inside my trunk or cockpit, spilling water or washer fluid on the seats, tube getting pinched or severed at some point.

If my car was a track or autocross specific car and not in good shape I guess it wouldn't matter.

Greasyman

Just tossing this out there for those who might be interested, but Devil's Own sells a $15 fitting that I installed in my washer tank. Just drill a hole and tighten it from the outside. When you do so a rubber spacer sort of thing expands and seals the hole. I won't try to describe it too much, but once you have it in your hand it's easy to see how it works, and it works well.