So I don't know if any of you guys have actually torn down any of your engines with lower miles or anything. But I had an unfortunate incident where I cracked the front Iron. The cause is still undisclosed entirely but I'll touch more on that later.

What I wanted to see is if anyone has actually torn down their engines after running ethanol and found any type of residue on the rotors. But not both rotors.... just the front rotor.

We tore down my Low mile engine and found that my front rotor was covered with a sticky film on the face of the rotor. I was with Abel Ibarra and he was helping me rebuild the engine and he said it was from my Pre-mix. Makes complete sense but I've been using Klotz Benol premix. pictured here:



There has been moderate street driving on this engine, 5 dyno sessions and 1 full hard track day. Car started on 91 Octane and transferred over to e85 after initial start up with maybe 5 miles of 91 on it.

I wish I would've taken a picture of the residue but we were in such a time crunch we literally saw it... instantly cleaned everything off and were onto the next thing before we could even worry about it. Is anyone else using this exact same stuff?

Let it be heard!!! Thanks guys!

 

Just front rotor?

Did you happen to have any vacuum line connected to the throttle body/UIM that could pull in oil or oil vapor?

In the early days of my TII set-up I had a crankcase breather set up with engine vacuum and I found it sucked engine oil into the front rotor only.

 

Interesting. .... I have crank case breather system. But it's not under vac pressure. I have (2) -6 lines going to a single catch can that is vented to atmosphere. And yes only on the front rotor.

 

I used benol on my previous 7 and found the same film. That sticky film though I believe was more from the e85 than the pre-mix.

 

I use e85 and benol and also had a thick film on my rotors. Motor had less then 5k on it.

 

Interesting. Wonder if people that are using Maxima Castor 927 experience the same thing, that's what I was planning on using.

 

How do we explain how it was on the front rotor only though? Was yours on both?

 

Aaron do you have preturbo EGt sensors? Are the EGT's similar while idling and cruising?

What injectors are you running?

 

I lost my engine at 2,000-3,000 miles due to oil loss (oil fitting worked loose, spun a bearing) but I didn't notice anything sticky on either of my rotors. I was running 93 octane with 2-3oz/gal premix, using Quicksilver (marine) premix.

Are you sure it's not specific to the brand of premix you were using, or the recent switch from gas to e85?

 

Hey John, yes I have dual Egt sensors. ... at idle and cruise they're within 3-4 degrees of each other.

 

No offense but I posted in the alternative fuels forum because it's got to be something with the mix of premix/ethanol/engine oil.

BTW: Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w 30

 

None taken (I saw the thread from the "Rotary Car Performance" header on the home page, I didn't go into the Alt Fuel section to find it), I should have expounded more.. My thought was that if you had recently switched from 91 octane over to e85, it might have been some old gasoline gunk that the e85 freed up (I've heard it has that effect on old tanks/lines???)

But I don't play with E85, nor do I ever intend to, so I'm sure you'll disregard my thoughts anyway

 

no problem!

 

Forgot to add

I.D. 1k Primaries OEM location
I.D. 2K secondaries in OEM location on Excessive LIM

 

Everything in contact with the fuel had the sticky residue.

 

hmmmm

 

Benol. A good friend of mine sold me a dirtbike and he only used benol and the exhaust port was completely gummed up to the size of a coffee bean. Search around and you'll find folks using benol reporting sticky stuff. I dislike benol. Good luck, followed your build, a true inspiration!

Methanol Mix Ratio ? [Archive] - Everything2Stroke

Klotz Super Techniplate - Yamaha 2-Stroke - ThumperTalk

 

Not talking about a build up of carbon or material just a residue. The engine was clean, cleaner than when it was run on 93.

 

the gummy stuff IS Benol. it is weird as it isn't soluble w carb cleaner. i found penetrating oil does a good job dissolving it. i had a motor where the owner used too much of it and it had maybe a half a tenth on the primary runner walls and a minor amount on the secondaries. the rotors had only a modest amount on the faces.

it would be nice if we could use something else than a vegetable (bean) oil as a premix.

someone out there has the answer...

 

As the castor crap gums up and gets pushed into the exhaust it sits there and collects carbon and more sticky crap..

http://www.controlchat.com/castor-oil-vs-synthetic-oil/

Good luck!

 

I've heard the Super Techniplate is better in terms of leaving less residue than regular Benol



Hmm. How about a steam clean. Wonder if that would help out. I'm a fan of steam cleaning, although I havn't done one on any of my engines since the wolf has been rebuilt. But on the original engine...instantly vac raised, idle was better, better MPG, more power. Wondering if a steam clean would at least prevent the "Extra build up" of if its even something to worry about.

Abel Told me to use the Redline 2 stroke alcohol blend because it doesn't have castor in it. I'm going to be switching for sure. Burns cleaner as well.

anyone have any experience with the stuff? Looks a bit more expensive... but what isn't with rotary haha.

 

I run redline 2 cycle race oil in my car and it seems to be clean. car runs great. I followed a lot of the 2-cycle dirt bikes and redline racing oil runs very clean. The castrol based stuff gums everything up.

so I went with redline racing 2-cycle synthetic.

 

Nice, How log have you been running it? What do you use the car for? And I know were in the alternative fuels section but you are running E85 nah? And not that it matters much...but How does it smell?

 

using maxima castor 927 and stuck my finger in the exhaust port, rotor seemed to have a bit sticky residue on it

if i ever disassemble the engine, i will examine it better

 

The difference in front to rear rotor I don't have an idea if the EGT's were the same.

A possible alternative to castor oil is this stuff https://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=51. It specifically states it is compatable with e-85. How effective it is with apex seal lubrication I do not know. I do know a friend is using it in his car but he has only been using it for about 2k mi so I cant really comment on how well it is working for him.

I can say that I am premixing about 1oz per gallon because I still use my OMP.