How much power is a Aeromotive A1000 good for on E85?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Saint Louis / Illinois
How much power is a Aeromotive A1000 good for on E85?
(1) Aeromotive A1000, how much power is that good for on E85?
Flows 700 lbs/hour @ 13.5 volts/45 psi
Flows 700 lbs/hour @ 13.5 volts/45 psi
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From: Birmingham, AL
A1000 is a horrible pump for high line pressures. At 70-80 psi line pressure, the A1000 is equal to what a walbro 341 255 LPH. I wouldn't reccomend either that pump or the eliminator. I have tried both and they overheat easy and lose pressure. At lower fuel pressures 20-30 they flow awesome. But the 1000 is out of efficiency above 50 psi. The eliminator is better for high pressures, but again those pumps have problems overheating and they are just annoyingly loud.
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Eric, hope this helps you a little. He told me A1000 would be good for my goals 500-600hp, and beyond.
Mike,
I’m glad you asked, as there is a lot of information out there and most of it, sadly enough, is really just by-guess and by-golly as to what works and what doesn’t for high HP street cars, and what the problems are when things go wrong. The A1000 is the pump you want, the Eliminator is an A1000 on steroids, being both louder and higher flow. The A1000 will support twice as much power as you plan on making for right now, so the Eliminator would be way beyond what you need or want. Use filter P/N 12304 for the fuel pump inlet (100-micron stainless steel) and filter P/N 12335 (40-micron stainless steel) on the outlet.
As for the rumor of an A1000 getting hot, this is a perfect example of people just not understanding what’s going in the fuel system during normal operation: The A1000 is a modern, in-line design pump, meaning the fuel flows through the electric motor on the way out. Because of that, the pump will never overheat as long as the fuel stays liquid and flowing through the pump continuously. However, it is possible that you can overheat the fuel in the tank during extended, street driving, because it’s recycled through the fuel rails in the engine compartment, and it’s here that a good installation will make or break street-ability.
1.) You must ensure the pump is easily drawing fuel from the tank. The A1000 is capable of making significant vacuum, and if restricted it will pull hard enough that the low pressure at the inlet port of the pump necessary to overcome any restrictions will start turning liquid fuel to vapor. This is what is called cavitation, which can lead to vapor lock and to what some have misidentified as the pump overheating. To minimize this problem, ensure you use a properly sumped tank with AN-10 (5/8” line) from the tank to the pump and the correct Aeromotive inlet filter P/N 12304.
2.) Fuel is recycled through the rail to ensure you have ideal flow and pressure to the injector, along with a supply of cooler fuel than if you trapped the fuel in the rail, causing engine heat to drove the temperature excessively high, hurting cylinder to cylinder fueling and engine power. That said, the heat has to go somewhere, namely back to the tank. So ensure your fuel lines up and back are as far from the exhaust system as possible, obviously the hottest thing in the car. If necessary, use sensible heat barriers to reflect heat away from fuel lines and fuel system components.
3.) The fuel volume in the tank has a direct impact on how frequently the tank is recycled through the engine compartment. On hot days, especially when the vehicle is in heavy , slow moving traffic, having a full tank is helpful. In addition, running our fuel pump speed controller in this environment can make a big difference, as it slows the pump down at low engine speed, keeping the fuel in the tank longer and thereby cooler.
I know this is a lot of information, but it’s what you need to know to understand what some people are talking about, and it will help you to evaluate your installation and correct any obvious problems before they turn into drivability issues.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have further questions and thanks for choosing Aeromotive!
Brett Clow
Aeromotive, Inc.
7805 Barton St.
Lenexa, KS 66214
913-647-7300 Ext. 109
I’m glad you asked, as there is a lot of information out there and most of it, sadly enough, is really just by-guess and by-golly as to what works and what doesn’t for high HP street cars, and what the problems are when things go wrong. The A1000 is the pump you want, the Eliminator is an A1000 on steroids, being both louder and higher flow. The A1000 will support twice as much power as you plan on making for right now, so the Eliminator would be way beyond what you need or want. Use filter P/N 12304 for the fuel pump inlet (100-micron stainless steel) and filter P/N 12335 (40-micron stainless steel) on the outlet.
As for the rumor of an A1000 getting hot, this is a perfect example of people just not understanding what’s going in the fuel system during normal operation: The A1000 is a modern, in-line design pump, meaning the fuel flows through the electric motor on the way out. Because of that, the pump will never overheat as long as the fuel stays liquid and flowing through the pump continuously. However, it is possible that you can overheat the fuel in the tank during extended, street driving, because it’s recycled through the fuel rails in the engine compartment, and it’s here that a good installation will make or break street-ability.
1.) You must ensure the pump is easily drawing fuel from the tank. The A1000 is capable of making significant vacuum, and if restricted it will pull hard enough that the low pressure at the inlet port of the pump necessary to overcome any restrictions will start turning liquid fuel to vapor. This is what is called cavitation, which can lead to vapor lock and to what some have misidentified as the pump overheating. To minimize this problem, ensure you use a properly sumped tank with AN-10 (5/8” line) from the tank to the pump and the correct Aeromotive inlet filter P/N 12304.
2.) Fuel is recycled through the rail to ensure you have ideal flow and pressure to the injector, along with a supply of cooler fuel than if you trapped the fuel in the rail, causing engine heat to drove the temperature excessively high, hurting cylinder to cylinder fueling and engine power. That said, the heat has to go somewhere, namely back to the tank. So ensure your fuel lines up and back are as far from the exhaust system as possible, obviously the hottest thing in the car. If necessary, use sensible heat barriers to reflect heat away from fuel lines and fuel system components.
3.) The fuel volume in the tank has a direct impact on how frequently the tank is recycled through the engine compartment. On hot days, especially when the vehicle is in heavy , slow moving traffic, having a full tank is helpful. In addition, running our fuel pump speed controller in this environment can make a big difference, as it slows the pump down at low engine speed, keeping the fuel in the tank longer and thereby cooler.
I know this is a lot of information, but it’s what you need to know to understand what some people are talking about, and it will help you to evaluate your installation and correct any obvious problems before they turn into drivability issues.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have further questions and thanks for choosing Aeromotive!
Brett Clow
Aeromotive, Inc.
7805 Barton St.
Lenexa, KS 66214
913-647-7300 Ext. 109
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,140
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From: Saint Louis / Illinois
Is that number with E85?
Fyi, I put down 603 whp with my old FD and the A1000 on race gas. The pump was even sweating it. But, I know that E85 will take much more pump. I'd just like to know if it can reach 600 whp on E85.
Yea, my question to him was what filters & which pump should I be running to reach 500-600hp on E85?
"The A1000 will support twice as much power as you plan on making for right now"
Yea its vague that he didn't give me an exact number, but he did say that twice my power goals of 500-600hp could be reached, so 1000hp minimum?
"The A1000 will support twice as much power as you plan on making for right now"
Yea its vague that he didn't give me an exact number, but he did say that twice my power goals of 500-600hp could be reached, so 1000hp minimum?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,140
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis / Illinois
Yea, my question to him was what filters & which pump should I be running to reach 500-600hp on E85?
"The A1000 will support twice as much power as you plan on making for right now"
Yea its vague that he didn't give me an exact number, but he did say that twice my power goals of 500-600hp could be reached, so 1000hp minimum?
"The A1000 will support twice as much power as you plan on making for right now"
Yea its vague that he didn't give me an exact number, but he did say that twice my power goals of 500-600hp could be reached, so 1000hp minimum?
Aeromotive rates the A1000 at 1,000 hp on a naturally aspirated engine.
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Mike,
The current A1000 fuel pump, not the pump from 3 years ago, but today’s pump, is rated to 1,000 flywheel HP EFI, forced induction, on gasoline. Now, that’s based on a BSFC of 0.65, which is ultra safe for most engines. I do understand that Rotary Mazda engines are notoriously inefficient fuel to HP, so if you think 0.65 lb/hr of fuel per HP is not enough, let me know what it should be and I’ll recalculate the HP limit for that.
Better yet, how about you tell me what size fuel injectors you’re going to run, what base fuel pressure and how many PSI of boost and I’ll tell you whether the A1000 can handle the injector to 100% duty cycle (max flow max hp for the injector).
Let me know and we’ll go from there Mike and thanks again for choosing Aeromotive!
Brett Clow
Aeromotive, Inc.
7805 Barton St.
Lenexa, KS 66214
913-647-7300 Ext. 109
The current A1000 fuel pump, not the pump from 3 years ago, but today’s pump, is rated to 1,000 flywheel HP EFI, forced induction, on gasoline. Now, that’s based on a BSFC of 0.65, which is ultra safe for most engines. I do understand that Rotary Mazda engines are notoriously inefficient fuel to HP, so if you think 0.65 lb/hr of fuel per HP is not enough, let me know what it should be and I’ll recalculate the HP limit for that.
Better yet, how about you tell me what size fuel injectors you’re going to run, what base fuel pressure and how many PSI of boost and I’ll tell you whether the A1000 can handle the injector to 100% duty cycle (max flow max hp for the injector).
Let me know and we’ll go from there Mike and thanks again for choosing Aeromotive!
Brett Clow
Aeromotive, Inc.
7805 Barton St.
Lenexa, KS 66214
913-647-7300 Ext. 109
....
ErnieTKiLLA
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 972
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From: new york
A1000 is a horrible pump for high line pressures. At 70-80 psi line pressure, the A1000 is equal to what a walbro 341 255 LPH. I wouldn't reccomend either that pump or the eliminator. I have tried both and they overheat easy and lose pressure. At lower fuel pressures 20-30 they flow awesome. But the 1000 is out of efficiency above 50 psi. The eliminator is better for high pressures, but again those pumps have problems overheating and they are just annoyingly loud.
this guy is correct.
I had the eliminator and besides the fact that it broke on me twice with magnets falling apart because the glue they used was not compatible with gasoline? did they forget they were making a fuel pump ?. then they made me pay for them to fix it, and after it finally wouldnt break the numbers they claim are absolute BS cause above 45psi pressure would start to drop BAD. thats just asking for a blown motor thanks Aeromotive.
the pump should not be used at all in high fuel pressure cars. I wouldnt use it period.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,140
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis / Illinois
this guy is correct.
I had the eliminator and besides the fact that it broke on me twice with magnets falling apart because the glue they used was not compatible with gasoline? did they forget they were making a fuel pump ?. then they made me pay for them to fix it, and after it finally wouldnt break the numbers they claim are absolute BS cause above 45psi pressure would start to drop BAD. thats just asking for a blown motor thanks Aeromotive.
the pump should not be used at all in high fuel pressure cars. I wouldnt use it period.
I had the eliminator and besides the fact that it broke on me twice with magnets falling apart because the glue they used was not compatible with gasoline? did they forget they were making a fuel pump ?. then they made me pay for them to fix it, and after it finally wouldnt break the numbers they claim are absolute BS cause above 45psi pressure would start to drop BAD. thats just asking for a blown motor thanks Aeromotive.
the pump should not be used at all in high fuel pressure cars. I wouldnt use it period.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 502
From: The Elysian Fields (Texas)
Sorry to say I had an A1000 die on me as well without any obvious culprit. Placed well below the fuel source, ludicrously over done wiring, and only about 4-5000 miles on it. Too bad because the pump was sized PERFECTLY for my "packaging" under the rear crossframe. 
http://www.hilborninjection.com/category.asp?Id=198
They have a fuel pump controller at the top of the page you might like. Plus sum single pumps that might get the job done.
They have a fuel pump controller at the top of the page you might like. Plus sum single pumps that might get the job done.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 728
From: Florence, Alabama
just an FYI...
i had the pleasure of meeting Jared Olson (IronMdnX) saturday at a Steve Kan tuning deal in Minn. Jared has been hammering on a 20B E85 tremec T56 FD rig he built a few years ago. at 27 psi! yikes.
anyway, he runs two Bosch 044s and an Apexi GT fuel pump. it works for him.
howard
i had the pleasure of meeting Jared Olson (IronMdnX) saturday at a Steve Kan tuning deal in Minn. Jared has been hammering on a 20B E85 tremec T56 FD rig he built a few years ago. at 27 psi! yikes.
anyway, he runs two Bosch 044s and an Apexi GT fuel pump. it works for him.
howard
