Have anyone used the "free air calibration" when hooked with an innovative wide band?

I tried recalibrating my wide band O2, but it seems like the button does nothing.

Maybe I am doing something wrong.

I removed the O2 from exhaust, and pressed the Calibration button correct?

Anyone tried this function?

-AzEKnightz

 

Which wideband...LC1 with XD16 gauge or MTX-L?

 

I have the LC-1. I've done the factory calibration. But I was to make sure it is reading correctly according to the Adaptronic ECU so I was to recalibrate it.

-AzEKnightz

 

Seems like the LC-1, LC-1 connected to XD-16 gauge, and MTX-L all calibrate differently. I have the LC-1/XD-16 and am glad I do because the calibration is by far the easiest in my opinion.

From the user manuals...

LC-1 Only

4.1 Free air calibration

To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.

If the wide-band sensor is installed in a vehicle, wait 6-8 hours after running the engine so that all exhaust gas is dissipated from the exhaust tract of the vehicle. Better yet, disengage the oxygen sensor and expose the sensor to air (away from the exhaust) for calibration purposes:

1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire to ground for three seconds and release.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start the car.

If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration.


LC-1 w/ XD-16 Gauge

4.10. Initiating a free air calibration

Press the Control button three times rapidly. The display will show a blinking: "CAL"

If the button was press accidentally three times, wait for 5 seconds. The XD-16 will return to normal display mode.

Pressing the Control button while the blinking CAL is displayed will initiate a free air calibration on ALL connected wideband devices.


MTX-L

2.4 Sensor Calibration

1. With the sensor disconnected, apply power to the MTX-L.
When power is applied, all three digits will light up and the needle bar will sweep once through all LEDs. Then the status light will turn red and the numeric display will
read “E2”. This is an error code, indicating that no sensor is detected. Leave unit powered on for minimum 30 seconds.

2. Power down the MTX-L and attach the oxygen sensor using the cable provided. Again, make sure that the sensor is in free air (not in the exhaust).

3. Power up the MTX-L. Again, the display should ‘sweep’, but instead of an error, the display will display “Htr”. This indicates that the sensor is being heated up to operating temperature.
After 30-60 seconds, the display will switch from “Htr” to “CAL”, indicating that the sensor is being calibrated. A few seconds later, your MTX-L will begin displaying AFR. Since the sensor is in free air, the gauge will default to the upper limit of 22.4.

The calibration procedure has completed and the system is now ready for use.

 

So I double checked and I found that I have the MTX-L.

I did the factory calibration according to the procedure you've included above.

However, I believe this is where the problem lays between my adaptronic ECU and the wide band.

Reason being, some other members looked at my map and said my O2 sensor is not reading correctly. Ive selected "Innovative LM-1/LC-1/TC-4" secondary serial IN port.

Is that why my O2 sensor is not reading correct?

-AzEKnightz

 

Did you fix your idle issue?

 

Nope.

IAC valve installed and tapped into Pin 4Q ECU side. Power source from Twin Power Red wire reading battery voltage.

I was wondering if it is my O2 sensor serial IN was the cause.

Since the pull down menu only have " Innovative LM-1/LC-1/TC-4 "?

-AzEKnightz

 

i also have a MTXL and i have setup into Innovative LM-1/LC-1 and working fine. i have tuned my idle with and without Idle Control Valve and works fine both ways, just that without ICV i need to raise idle about 150 rpm higher just like with the PFC.

 

Can you shine some light on me please.

This is my first standalone ECU and I am willing to learn to tune.

Mechanically I have no problem with doing the work. However I have not touch anything prior neither the PFC therefore I am lacking information.

I'd like to know what are the requirements to have the engine running and not stalling.

You've mention that the car needs to stay between 12-13 afr to idle correctly. However even adjusting through the master fuel trim, it doesnt even come close to becoming stable or 13 afr.

I will go and smoke the intake to see if I can find any leaks tomorrow. I will also re-adjust the throttle, close everything up and re-adjust to OEM specs and retry again.

-AzEKnightz

 

Every car is different , the bigger the porting the more air and fuel it will need to idle. Some cars will idle at 12.1 some can idle at 13.00, believe or not one single afr point can make a difference on how solid the car will idle.

At the beginning I had mine at 13.7 and it would idle but I could tell that it didn't like it, so I kept adjusting fuel and got to 13.1 and she is great now.

Was the car running before the Adaptronic?

Are you using stock intake and TB?

I see you mentioned that the car will start and idle real high for few seconds and stall, if that's correct try to close the TB all the way and try to start the car, if car starts and does the same thing that means you have vacumn leak somewhere .

 

Agreed....my engine (large street port) always like 13.2 AFR at about 1000-1100 rpm to idle well on the old Power FC.

 

This is a fresh rebuild motor by Karack (Ben). 0 miles. Stock TB with Define V-Mount kit.

Car was not running prior to Adaptronic. Hence this is much more troublesome.

Thanks!

-AzEKnightz

 

re-install your MTX-L through the ECU. Mine wasn't reading the first time I installed it. Turns out I didn't plug the Serial cable in all the way. So double check everything. The MTX-L is VERY easy to calibrate....and I think that calibrate button in the adaptronic software is ment for OEM applications... I could be wrong but i'm almost positive it wouldn't work with anything aftermarket.. I could be wrong though.

Now that its set up it reads correctly on my adaptronic and gauge. The 2 are Identicle.

How much did you adjust your master fuel trim? I had to adjust mine all the way up to 43!! ANYTHING lower...even one point and it starts to surge up and down.

Another contributing factor was the TB adjustment screw. It took a few tries to get it to idle nice and smooth with the fuel trim @ 43. I dont have a ICV either.

 

Wow, 43? That's adding a ton of fuel.

Somehow my injector Dead time was reset to 125 for primary injectors. And it flooded my engine again. My 3rd set of spark plugs. Another set is on the way.

I will double check the MTX-L again to be sure. But my A/F ratio were around 10ish. Running too rich, and I'll have to subtract fuel instead of adding. Maybe I should lean it out first, and add fuel instead of subtracting fuel? What do you think?

-AzEKnightz

 

Is it still idling around 3500ish? It was your car that had the High idle right?

Could you post your set up again? I can't remember what you were running..

Injector size? Ignition etc?

 

Yes that was me on the Adaptronic forum.

Injector size ID1000 and ID2000.

Ignition: Stock coils + twin power

Define Auto V-Mount

Stock throttle body with secondary butterfly plates removed

-AzEKnightz

 

Wow, my fuel trim is at 0. I believe that the stock map the fuel map cell are set on 50 for idle, I had to set mine around 79-80 to be able to idle without using fuel trim.


Did you check to make sure you don't have vacumn leak and closed the TB like I posted earlier?

 

^ maybe I'll look at your table and copy your cells. But I have to get my damn Fuel level sender to work first. =-/.... actually I think I just need a new one

 

yep I did.

However I smoke tested the Intake system and found that my TB is having a small leak at the bearing cover where the butterfly shaft goes into (not sure what the exact term is, but its leaking both at the left and right side at the throttle body, not where the TB meets the intake manifold).

I will play with the map a little bit and see.

-AzEKnightz

 

That leak is normal pretty much any TB will leak there some more than others.

 

Good to know. So I've adjusted my map a little, played with some timing and fuel. Am able to get it idle hunt at 2500-3000 rpm.

However I am VERY new at this and will need quite a bit of time to get this figured out.

At Least it starts and runs now. Before it would start, run for 10 second and die off.

-AzEKnightz

 

If the idle hunt you need to add more fuel to the lower fuel cells, example if its hunting between 2500-3000 rpm at 16 hg you will need to add fuel to the 2500 cell to keep it from keep going to 3000

 

Thank you! That's some valuable information you're providing.

I have no clue what to do but I've been playing with the map slowly and getting a tiny bit of it.

-AzeKnightz

 

Hi guys, to respond to the original question, you can click the "free air calibration" button if you are using a really late version of the FW.

To calibrate either the LC1 or the MTXL, you can do it over the serial port from Logworks. To save people the hassle of connecting it to the laptop instead of to the ECU, I added in a function in the ECU that sends the calibration command to the LC1 or MTXL just as Logworks does.

In the software gauge window (if the software supports the recal option), it will tell you the current sensor state (O2/too lean, cold, error, or calibrating) so you can see it do the calibration and then return to the too lean reading. Remember that the sensor has to be in free air to do this; not in an exhaust system, even if it hasn't been running.

To Eric's running rough / unable to run at low RPM problem - I'm answering this on the Adaptronic forum and I don't want to write it out again here.

 

Thanks Andy for the response. I also replied on the adaptronic forum.

-Eric