ok so i have my electric water pump hooked up to my ECU in aux out #2 and it is working exactly as it should be in every way, the problem i am haveing though is that my cars setup for what ever reason does not want to get up to temp unless im going ***** out all the time.
So i currently have the low end of my water temp graph set to 79°C and the high end at 90° C, which essentially means that i have no coolant flow till the temperature in the water creeps itself around to the sensor, which is on the opposite side of the engine that the heat is comeing from, which worries me about the seals down by the combustion side. I have tried it the way it says in that instruction post on the adaptronic forum ramping from -20 to 110 or whatever it was and this kept my engine in the low 60's which would be great, accept then when i start moveing at all they drop down into the 50's, which makes it undriveable over 4000 RPM coughing and sputtering (likely caused by my setup useing colder than stock plugs and my large porting). at least with my current graph it is staying near temp wile driveing.

What im wondering is if there is some other way to hook it up so that i could set it up with either a exponential graph curve as opposed to the straight line Graph, so that i can have minimum duty cycle most of the time ramping up to max right where i need it or is there some way to build a "map" for it for example by maybe setting it up as my secondary fuel map useing water temp on one axis and throttle position on the other with the numbers being the pump duty cycle (this would greatly help me at idle)

 

post screenshots of everything, too hard to follow just text

 

Depending on the ecu. you could use PID control. However, my knowledge of how to do it very minimal and only what I have learned from YouTube. And this is assuming you are using a PWM signal to the EWP.

Personally, I would have it always flowing at least 20%, even when cold, to prevent any hot spotting during warm up. And have it start to ramp up once it gets close to set operating temperature.

A set graph where a certain temp equals a certain % PWM output will not account for different environments and/or load conditions. This is why I would suggest a PID loop.

But, I am still in my initial tuning knowledge phase, where I am delving into theory, and not actually performing the application...yet. So if I am off the mark, an experienced tuner is more than welcome to set me straight as I really do not wish to mislead anyone.

 

Excellent i have an rx7 select series 8 ecu, ill look into this

i agree with this, accept that when im below 50 degrees C my car really cant move, it coughs, chokes and stutters like crazy if i go past 10% throttle, which is why i resorted to what i did cause otherwise it just stays to low, and this is exactly why im looking for a solution cause i am afraid of it getting to hot in the combustion and exhaust sections

Yea thats why i think a "map" useing my second fuel map (which is currently unused) set with the water temp on 1 axis and throttle position on the other and the values being the duty cycle, although i would probably want some sort of built in hysterisis to keep it relatively stable, say a 3 or 4 second delay should be enough to keep it from jumping around every time i shifted

Thanks for the response any input is appreciated, dont think many people run the electric water pump off their ECU, and it doesnt seem like too many people ever have the issue of not haveing enough heat lol

 

Sorry for the confusion of the post, it was made really late in the day...or early.

Ill have to work on getting screenshots of the setup, but this is more a question of, "is this capable of doing this" as opposed to a "can you help me fix this" because as far as im concerned I.A.W the instructions for hooking this up, it is working perfectly, the motor ramps up as it should, just wondering if there is a way to better control it as opposed to the linear graph.

will work on getting screens next time i get out to work on it

 

If we can visually see how everything is set up in the software it will be easier to give recommendations.

That being said, I'll give you a hint. If you look at how BMW controls their electric water pumps on say their 2.0 turbo N20 engine (Z4, 328i, X3), they kick on at 60C, and then they have a computer controlled thermostat (basically a regular plunger type but with a heating element so it's not just mechanical). In normal street driving on that engine, the pump cycles on and off (coordinated with cooling fan and accessory load) rather than running continuously and having drastic swings.

 

I have been using Davies Craig EWPs on rotaries since they were first released in the early 2000s. I have experimented with all the pumps and controllers as they have evolved.

In my experience, on a street driven rotary, if you have a very capable radiator and fan you simply need some sort of restriction in order to allow the engine to maintain proper operating temperature. Otherwise it will take forever to heat up and run too cool on freeways. This is also needed for proper heater operation. Replacing the water pump housing with a simple inlet/outlet won't work, no matter what you use to control it.

You also need some sort of pulsing at low temperatures to ensure the heat from within the block is distributed throughout the cooling system. Natural convection is not enough. The Davies Craig controllers use an algorithm which does precisely this - pulses 3V from the pump to aid in heating the engine up. Otherwise you risk getting localised boiling or overheating around the water jacket before the EWP controller ever sees enough temperature where the water temp sensor controller is located - usually not on the block itself, unless you are using the factory water temp sensor for the gauge.

The best way I have found to use an EWP on a street driven rotary is to do the following:
(a) retain the stock water pump housing and thermostat
(b) block thermostat bypass channel at the side where it feeds from the factory water pump
(c) tap a thread which feeds into the bypass channel and screw in a barb outlet which feeds coolant from the water pump housing bypass pre-EWP (suggest the heater return barb at the bottom of the radiator).

You can then program the EWP to have a simple low voltage at lower temps, ramping to max voltage at the target temp. Or just use the Davies Craig controller, the most recent version of which is excellent.

This results in fasting than factory warm-up times, excellent cooling and proper heater functioning.