smikels

I have the worst time with idle on my 88 turbo II. I will have it perfect and turn off the car and then crank it back up later and its off again. I have the car set to idle at 1400 until it warms up (about 150) then 1200. I have this big electric fan that comes on that pulls a lot of power and will cause it to dip a little as well. This is the reason I have the idle up a little. So if I am not moving which is most of the time with it hits this temperature the idle won't drop and cause the car to die. One of the weirdest things to be though is if I start the car when its a little warm it will barely idle between 500-700 probably. I have to give it some gas for about 30 seconds to a minute before it normals back up a little. Also I have no coolant running to my thottle body for my thermowax. But I do not have an issue when it cold. Do I need to remove this thrermowax? Is it the one causing the issues that makes it change sometimes?

Any ideas on what I need to adjust to remedy this? I also run in open loop all the time. This idle is frustrating that it will be perfect until I restart the car or something later and it does this. It is just a minor inconvenience, but still a pain in the butt that I haven't figured out yet.

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

Do you have a wideband tied into the ecu? That seems to happen to mine when the wideband is in heater mode, but afterwards it is fine. Other way is just to open the calculation trace to find the trims of either fuel, air, or timing and that will show what setting is messing with it.

smikels

Yeah I have wideband tied in. Will take a look at the trace mode. I am just not sure why it is different when the engine is warmer already on a new engine start. I may try and play with closed loop again as well. I have it pretty good on open loop and have been running it like that for a while now.

shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

I assume you are using the IACV? Id be happy to take a look at the issue you are having over teamviewer.

smikels

I guess I always thought of it as a BAC. It is the same thing I think. I put the car on closed loop and it seems to be doing better.

Shawn,

I guess I need to put it back into open loop and verify I can recreate the situation. Let me try that and if so then I will see when you want to try and check it out. So I can warm up the car 1st so it will do it. Does that sound correct?

shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

So for best practice I like to always start with having the mechanical idle stable at operating temperature. There is generally not enough air for when the engine is cold. So the way it will work would be to disable the IACV and set your mechanical idle at where you want it to be at operating temperature. Then you enable the IACV but disable the Closed loop. You will set the open loop at operating temperature so it is just slightly before it starts to actually raise the idle from the mechanical value. Then you would let the car cool all the way down and start the car adjusting the idle as the car warms up. After all of this is done you can re-enable the closed loop idle control and set your target idle speed to match what you set for your open loop idle values. I have found using what ever values that are in the basemap from Downloads | Adaptronic page for the PID controls on the idle control.

If you have a Modular ECU all of this is the same but it has an added bit of control with the Ignition offset based on RPM difference from the target idle speed. Which is set up like the following -200 -150 -100 -50 -25 0 25 50 100 150 200 for the scaling and the values added can be 10 8 5 3 1 0 -1 -3 -5 -8 -10

Using all these features together really gives you that OEM Quality of idle.

Thanks,
Shawn Christenson