Got the ffe 36-1 hall kit for my 440, can i get some tips on wiring and setup, hall sensor requires 8-12 volts from ecu

 

Hi Tony,

Can I ask why you're using the Hall effect pickup rather than the standard VR sensor on the engine? If you use the standard VR sensor then you don't need to change the wiring, and it's just as accurate (the accuracy is determined by the number of teeth)

Most Hall sensors will handle a direct 12V connection to the ignition supply (pin 1B on the ECU) - connect the sensor GND to the signal GND on the ECU (pin 2C or 2D) and then connect the trigger output from the sensor into CAS1 on the ECU (pin 2E).

Set trigger input 1 as "digital", and select "ignition, injection, ignition crank" and "reset on 1 missing tooth". Select the reset type as "crank". Disable all the other settings.

Now the numbers in the table for the Hall effect sensor should start at 90, and then go down by 10 each time (36 teeth, so every 10 degrees) until you get to 80, then -1. Check the timing with a timing light to make sure it's correct and "90" is the right place to start.

Here's a picture...

Cheers!
Andy

 

well I should have gone with standard sensor, I thought hall is better for noise,
on the wiring I did take power from 1b,
for ground I am using the white wire on the 4 wire shielded cable (connects to 2c or 2d)
will that be ok?
or should I run a separate thicker ground wire from 2c or 2d
thanks for your help Andy

 

Yes, using the internal white wire in the cable will be fine

You can also, if you want to, remove one of the wires from the ECU connector (eg the red wire on pin 2G) and connect that to 12V instead, and run the power down the cable to the sensor. That will probably end up neater.

Cheers!

 

Zeroed at the red mark by offsetting to these settings

 

is the red mark on ffe wheel tdc?

 

Do you still have the factory mark on the pulley?

Because the factory mark on the pulley lines up with the pointer on the crankcase at 20 degrees ATDC.

According to the FFE documentation, the first number should be 90 if using the Hall effect sensor (ie, the first tooth after the gap lines up with the sensor when rotor 1 is at 90° BTDC). So 95 is plausible, but I would check against the factory timing mark if you can still see it.

Set the ignition timing in the map to zero, set the split to 20, and disable the ignition timing for idle control, so it says in the gauges window Ign: 0.0 (-20.0) - so you know the trailing plug is firing at 20 degrees ATDC, and then check the trailing timing against the factory mark.

 

With the 13b rew engine pulley is not marked, need to take the pulley out to swap the trigger wheels, to much work
With the timing locked at zero both front leading and trailing fire at the red mark, i will contact ffe and confirm if the red mark is tdc. So far up to 10 psi no sign of knock