Me also!

 

At least he did not crack the Motec Muffler!

...It's his fuel map, it's got a nasty hole, that's why you're unloading in 3rd. Unlengthen the injector pulse another millisecond, just tune the NOS timing, you'll run 9's!

 

I've got an awesome photoset of a Camaro losing its hood on the starting line.

I was taking "rapid fire" pictures at the launches, and caught it. It's on another computer right now, but the picture in the middle has the car mid-launch, and a big burst of flame pushing the hood up an inch or two all the way around. Used to be my avatar here, I think.

The hood sheared off of its hinges at the back, that'll teach ya to use a dozen Dzus fasteners to hold a fiberglass hood instead of a couple little pins I forget what happened underneath, but it definitely was not self-propelled for the rest of the night.

Things like that have taught me that nitrous is an evil, evil mistress

 

Nice call!! A few hours go Colon reset the world record with 7.15 @ 176 MPH. I have a feeling there's more where that came from Elevate every expectation with NRS Ceramic Power Seals.

Congratulations Eddie and Gaby, awesome effort!

 

Here's the video.

http://www.theracersshop-pr.com/gall...album=52&pos=3

 

Congrats to Sporty for the new 13B MPH record of 189 MPH. They now have both the 13B ET and MPH world record.

Here's vids of both runs:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nt=sporty7.flv

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...=sporty189.flv

Also a huge congrats to Pica Motors for the 3/4 Chassis world record run of 7.19 @189 MPH. You gotta like the competition this team puts to the table. Great goin! Man I'd love to get a set of my seals in that engine too

 

out of curiousity ... Anyone tried using cryogenic treated parts and ceramic coated along with the ceramic seals? Or would the cryogenic treatment make the ceramic coating not stick as good?

 

The 3mm thicker spring provides far higher pre load than 2mm spring which is much thinner by comparison, yes feed bck is they dont float both in NA or Turbo

how do you do it? I am a machinist and the method is simple, if anyone needs it done they can send me springs and I can modify them. Having said that any competent machinist with a brain can figure it out while still using the magnetic table.
You take small cuts and use a high coolant rate and bugger all heat is put into the springs, hence no loss of heat treatment

I have personaly seen the 2mm stock springs float in turbo car (engine i built myself) and the spring pre load is very low for such a light seal, I have had one builder complain very much in his NA application upon which time we supplied re arced stock 2mm springs which marginaly helped but still did not solve the problem 100%.

The 3mm spring is over 0.2mm thicker than the 2mm and when i grind them down I leave them wider than the 2mm stock version so the extra force is MUCH higher than the oem spring, its very similar to what Ianetti use on their custom springs. My personal recommendation is do not use the 2mm factory springs as they are not suitable from my experience and that of a few of my end users.

3mm ceramics do not suffer from the same problems mainly cause the springs are much stronger and also the seal is heavier.

 

Ha ha my bad, never kiss and tell

 

The problem the machine shop had was the surface grinder they have is a large unit intended for large pieces. The space between the magnet strips is about 1" so everything they tried did not help to hold them in place.

What I can do is try another shop with a more appropriate sized surface grinder to see if they can make it work.

elwood let me know if this is what you want me to do.
Thanks, Sven

 

As an experienced machinist, You need to " block them in" on the magnet. This can be as simple as some scrap flat or sheet stock slid against the stacked springs or, as I would do, a simple fixture.

Some 1/8' flat stock made to the shape of the spring. Either by machine or hand fit. One for the inside, one for the out. Stack the springs on edge, you will need a straight piece down wind from the wheel, along the edges. The pieces will be machined to the perfect size during the first set.

The most important part is to tap the two pieces towards each other, after setting the magnet. This provides a clamping force after the parts are kinda of pulled into uniformity by the magnet. Like taping something into a vise, but backwards.

Just trying to help.

 

I used 1.6mm sheet cut into rectangular shapes, I layed the springs out length ways and supported bottom, middle, top & also each side of the springs 7 rectangles all up....... this worked perfectly BUT you cant take too much of a cut as for one it will overheat the spring and **** it and two the odd spring will want to creep up off the magnetic table

take your time and it will work well.

Its a 2 hr job to do it right and with as little heat generated into the part as possible.

The preload on the spring is over double of the fatory 2mm springs. I surface grind my springs on both sides to make them a perfect 1.85mm in thickness v's the 2mm slot, there is night and day difference in the sealing and this will totaly eliminate any power losses when using the very light 2mm cermaics (and undersprung) due to floating.

 

Good info, I have used that same concept for holding side seals.
Nice thing is I am having 500 inners and 500 outers in 2mm made to push the same as two 3mm springs do so I wont have to worry about grinding them any more

 

I have a manifold that is in three separate pieces, along with a massive reverse dent in my hood, that says this is VERY common when you are at the limit.

I hate backfires.....

 

Here are the pics of the seals from the Colon car that first made 850 RWHP then 980 RWHP. The last pics are of the broken seal under the UV light and as you can see with the aid of the penetrant shows secondary cracks that normally wouldn't be noticed.
There was no damage to any of the other internals.

The 5 remaining seals inspected out perfectly and they will be reused.

 

Very nice!

Me likee a lot.

 

Upon close microscopic inspection of the radius tops on the seals from Sporty's engine I estimate the seals are 80 - 90% broken-in. There are just a few small patches to burnish and the surface is like a mirror. These babies are just about to start performing at their best.

 

How many miles / hours / passes are on those seals do you think?

 

The seals were first installed in May 2006, so it's been 12 months @ 850 RWHP/34 psi and about 1 month @ 980 RWHP/43 psi.

I'm not sure how many passes Sporty made last year but that is the time frame.

 

And they still aren't 100% broken in!!!!

Wow, that is amazing. Taking this into account though, what would you suggest for the break in interval for a motor assembled with these seals and possibly Cermet coating on the housing and irons?

 

Break-in on a street engine can take 1000+ miles, sometimes sooner though. Add cermet to the equation and this will be longer but I couldn't say exactly how much.

 

I would have given the NRS a try but I've already bought Iannetti ceramic seals. Next rebuild (I plan on building a 20B for my next engine).

 

In talking with Gaby about NRS Ceramic Power Seals, he tells me they make the most power over any other apex seal. In his words "with your seals the car always seems to make more power and go faster".

He told me with NRS seals "the engine seems to go crazy" and that ALL other steel seals bend (including Factory seals) and NRS do not.

Triple E philosophy........Elevate Every Expectation.

P.S. Happy Independance Day America!

 

That's one of the advantages of using ceramics. You can run a little closer to the edge where as any other type of apex seal material would have compromised sealing and power output. If there was a way to measure compression or sealing at power output creamics would win all the time.

 

There is a way, we've done it here at work (NASA). Its just a high pressure transducer. We built it into a spark plug so we didn't change any thing on the engines we were testing (Like putting holes in cylinder head to mount the transducers which we've done on some engines). The company heard what we were doing and now offers these pressure transducers built into spark plugs. I doubt theres a rotary specific plug, but if you contact them I'm sure they'd do it for a fee , or machine your own. You can get them through a lot of electronics / industrial suppliers like DigiKey, Mouser etc. Then its just a matter of having low noise power supply and using some kind of data loging system. You might need to make up some noise filtering software too. I'm sure theres pleanty of free shareware on the net for it, at least thats what we started to use eventually we codded our own filters.


~Mike..........