Just like the title says. Crank the air on and no heat whatsoever. How do I test a heater core? One of my friends says the valve might be stuck. I have never had this problem with any vehicle I've ever owned so I'm in the dark on this one. Suggestions for testing?

*edit. There is coolant in it and it does not overheat. She stays perfectly in the middle.

 

my heater doesn't work either (it blows air though), I'd like to know the answer to this too....and not to hijack, but my A/C also blows, but doesn't blow cold air really? Does it need freon you think?

 

ditto AND ditto. However i know the only TRUE heat is supposed to come from the lower vents but even then after the car is fully warmed up i cant really justify calling it heat at all.

 

Add me to the list. Allthough my car gets pretty warm after 30 min or so of driving.

 

Set it on defrost or floor and you should get heat. The 'face' setting always feels cold.

 

Weird. I'll have to try that out.... but still it should blow more heat than that

 

I have a heater core unit if anyone needs one. Holla!

 

On either of those settings you will get plenty of heat; and it is generally well distributed.

 

the hear core is probablly cogged, mine does the same thing....if you sear for cloged heater core, there is a nice writeup on how to hook up a pump to it and flush it...

 

Sweet! thanks for the info!

 

In the Owner's Manual (which almost NO ONE reads... *ahem*ahem* ) it states that the dash vents are for A/C use ONLY, and heat ONLY exits from the floor and defrost vents. Putting the vents on the defrost only position will leave your feet freezing but body melting, and putting it on the feet only position will melt your shoes while leaving your body cold. I like the feet/defrost combo position best. I normally don't even have to turn on the heat. Just leave the **** on the hottest position, fan off, and the engine bay generates enough heat to seep into the cockpit pretty easily

~Ramy

 

I agree with Ramy. And just in case anyone doesn't know, keep the vents closed (i.e. recirculating air vs. fresh air). You will always get hotter heat and colder A/C on that setting.

Joe

 

yeah and fogged up windows/windshield

 

Is there an owner's manual online somewhere? I bought my car without one...

 

For the longest time I was puzzled why heat wouldnt come out of the upper vents, but why does the heat come out of the floor postion and defrost? now I can sleep at night...and I got my owners manual for $25 *like new* I got lucky now just to get my ac to work for the summer...

 

sneak said it best, because i too can finally sleep at night knowing why my vents were not working. or wait... i guess they were working. i just didnt know it.

 

Just pick one up from the local stealership. If they don't have one, they can order it. It's DEF worth keeping in your FD (vs. something on your computer) b/c it has diagrams for the fuse boxes etc... good useful info that you'll wanna have handy.

And for those of you who haven't read it, just a head's up...the tie-down points on the front bumper are NOT tow hooks. You do NOT ever use those to tow the car up onto a tow truck, no matter WHAT the tow truck guy says...unless you wanna rip your entire front bumper off. They are TIE DOWN POINTS. You wanna get it towed, have him place his hook directly onto one of the circular holes in the subframe.

Page 5-14 clearly states in a HUGE "CAUTION" box: "Don't use the hook loops under the front for towing. They are designed ONLY for tying down the vehicle when it's being transported. Using them for towing will damage the bumper."

~Ramy

 

A big thanks for clearing up the heater issue. I just got my FD out of storage this weekend... & was about to put a post asking why my heat doesn't ever get hot!

 

lol, im not the only dumbass then, i was curious myself why the heater didnt work on vent.lol it still got luke warm if it was running for a while but im glad i saw this thread.

 

Not to hi-jack this thread, but speaking of Broken A/C & heat... how is the temp control **** suppose to work? Is it suppose to free fairly freely or click into different tempt ranges? I can spin my **** a good 720 degrees... which I assume is no good. Any idea what needs to be replaced to fix this?

 

^ditto I got this problem too ,maybe this is the threadstarter's problem as well. Seems to be more likely than some of the more complicated problems mentioned previous...

 

This whole heater things comes up EVERY single winter, b/c no one searches lol. And no one reads the manual. It's crazy lol.

And yea, if your temp selector is spinning 270 degrees, it's busted haha.

~Ramy

 

By the way, this is a generality for all automobiles, not the RX:


It is a BAD idea to place the heater **** in one of the heating positions without turning on the fan. Many heater cores are designed to withstand only the heat produced WHILE A FAN is BLOWING ON IT, or pulling the hot air elsewhere. Continuos heat without a blower to cool the core may resault in failure of the core....

 

AND ps: your **** is not neccessarily broken if it turns 270 deg, Remove the **** and inpspect whether the the nut on the control shaft is loose, mine comes loose quite often, i would tighten it very carefully (dont overtighten, and add some locktight to the threads above the nut if you dont wanna go through this more than once....

 

excellent advice^ thanx