2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

weight reduction for the fc

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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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weight reduction for the fc

ive searched and there is info all over the place. somebody will ask and somebody will say search in every thread ive read. can we make a faq on weight reduction. so someone can jus go to the faq page and be done with the whole subject.

from what i kno so far is a/c, heater removal (blower, lines, condenser, compressor, venting, control unit, heater) p/s go to a manual rack, full interior removal and tar, racing seats, seatbelt removal get harnesses and rollcage, emissions removal

i need some suggestions on the sunroof
and what about the glass i heard something on the rear hatch but what about the windsheild and windows?

is there anything you can do to the exterior to drop weight?

is going to 2000 lbs realistic as streetable? if not what would be the the lightest you could go for streetability
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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on our SCCA race cars, we remove the glass and replace it with lexan. i would not reccomend this for a street driven car at all. lexan pits and chips easily, and for a street driven car, would have to be replaced very frequently.
as far as the sunroof, i know a few people who have lexan sunroofs that are pop-rivited or bolted on. if you want to keep the function of the sunroof, i believe speedmachine sells a carbon fiber sunroof for the fc.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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im trying to understand why your worried about the weight of the car , whats your plans for it????
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 12:14 PM
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Pull seats and carpeting and chisel out (as in a flathead screwdriver and hitting it with a hammer) the noise deadening stuff that lies under everything.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RXgirl7
on our SCCA race cars, we remove the glass and replace it with lexan. i would not reccomend this for a street driven car at all. lexan pits and chips easily, and for a street driven car, would have to be replaced very frequently.
as far as the sunroof, i know a few people who have lexan sunroofs that are pop-rivited or bolted on. if you want to keep the function of the sunroof, i believe speedmachine sells a carbon fiber sunroof for the fc.
how about the windows?

anybody else?

how about any kits that look stock but weigh less?
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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lmfao... since when is a roll cage a form of weight reduction?
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:12 PM
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check that out
https://www.rx7club.com/vbgarage.php?do=view&id=4018
everything is listed under weight reduction. the car in current state is 2440 with a 1/3 tank of gas, it is an s5, it does still have power seatbelts, and all of the interior is stock except for the recaro srd drivers seat which was only 5 lbs or so lighter then the stock seat.

diffrent people consider diffrent stages of modifications steertable. in my opinion having to remove anything more then i have makes the car that much less streetable. there comes a point where you do not want to drive your car for anything but short bursts. when my car was stock i have taken long trips ~1400 miles one way. at the time i also had the racing beat steetable exhuast. now i wouldnt really consider doing that. i would take it for 3-4 hour trips one way anything longer would be very uncomfortable. exhaust tone and amount of noise also makes a big diffrence in how steetable the car is, it might be cool to run around with an n1 style canister and tone, but after 30 mins you have to get out i am sure alot of people will agree with me on this. suspension matters a very good amoutn also and the roads you drive on. think twice before removing something from the car, as there is a good chance you will want to put it back or will miss it later.

i wouldnt remove the glass if the car is driven on the street a lot, if its a weekend car i wouldnt replace anything else but the rear hatch. you can make a lexan hatch that would rivet to the body. even if you just replace the glass the frame of the hatch glass is still pretty damn heavy. i fi had to guess i would say the frame is about 20 lbs and the glass is 30. this will be one of the last piece i will remove off of my car. i do not drive the car very ofthen so i dont care much about the lexan wear. but like i said if it is a daily driver i woudlnt remove any glass.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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You won't lose weight going with fiberglass fenders. Or not more than a couple pounds. You can lose a bunch with a f'glass hood though, about 35 lbs. The back hatch frame is about 17 lbs. I'm making a mold this week for a f'glass one that should be less than 4 lbs. This is all race car stuff so no hinges, only hood pins and dzus fasteners. Do a search on 'Adding Lightness' I've posted some stuff I've found that may help you.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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I don't think you can ever get a stock body rx7 down to 2000lbs, maybe if you get a complete fiberglass body?? my turbo vert weighs in at 3368 with me in it and I weigh 185 <-- now thats a heavy car.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gerbraldy
my turbo vert weighs in at 3368 with me in it and I weigh 185 <-- now thats a heavy car.
Dang, yes it is. Your car needs to
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:36 PM
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It can be done, just won't be real pleasant or safe on the street. Our FC vert Eprod car is 2537 lbs, with a 200 lb driver. The 'vert body shell is full of extra metal, my best guess is about 200 lbs worth.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jgrewe
You won't lose weight going with fiberglass fenders. Or not more than a couple pounds. You can lose a bunch with a f'glass hood though, about 35 lbs. The back hatch frame is about 17 lbs. I'm making a mold this week for a f'glass one that should be less than 4 lbs. This is all race car stuff so no hinges, only hood pins and dzus fasteners. Do a search on 'Adding Lightness' I've posted some stuff I've found that may help you.

I have weighed the fenders out before on multiple cars before a body kit...and this man is corect. There was about a 5-8 pound difference for most cars. But a CF hood is dramatically lighter tho........
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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have you considered rims, flywheel, Rotors, driveshaft, rear speaker mounts, replacing dash, steering wheel.....etc

Im sure there is plenty more stuff to be removed/replaced, it all depends on money alloted for the project
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7FROMCAL
im trying to understand why your worried about the weight of the car , whats your plans for it????
I second that!
For a street driven vehicle weight should not be one of your concerns. Unless you plan to build a car specifically for open track days.

If you're prepping for a race class, an SCCA race class, please pick up a current GCR - General Competition Rules.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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and as far as adding a roll cage thats for safety

replacing the dash what kinda recomendations for that i havent heard of anything on that. only to remove it

theese are some pretty good suggestions can we get some more
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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i belive someone makes a fiberglass dash, or if its going to be a race car, no dash.

what are your plans for the car anyways?
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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Why do you need a roll cage? What the hell are you doing with the FC that you need it as light as possible?
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7FROMCAL
im trying to understand why your worried about the weight of the car , whats your plans for it????
i was trying to remember the formulas and couldn't but what i wanted to say was:

heavy things are harder to move
and turn
and stop

granted you can't push it as hard on the street, performance isn't just for the track

one thing i haven't seen anyone list are the heavy *** towing loops held on by two bolts each in the rear by the mufflers... there is one on each side, just don't get stuck in a ditch *** out
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:52 PM
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The car will do EVERYTHING better if its lighter, maybe even get better fuel mileage! Oh, the dash doesn't weigh that much and it covers all the crap behind it nicely. So for a street car, not worth removing. Goin' racin'? Hopefully not street racing if you are. Check the rules if its legit racing before you spend any time or money.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
one thing i haven't seen anyone list are the heavy *** towing loops held on by two bolts each in the rear by the mufflers... there is one on each side, just don't get stuck in a ditch *** out
your right ive never heard of that

any other things im trying to get this on the faq

how about power windows and locks how much would that save?
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:46 PM
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un-tar the entire inside and outside, like around the wheelwells. on the inside, get a chisel from home depot or whatever and use a hammer, it will chip right off (or you can heat it up with a dryer but it will be all gooey and ****). from above the gas tank all the way to behind the seats can be removed easily. you'll need to take out the seats and front carpeting to get the rest out.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:47 PM
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one more thought is if you have a steel hood and don't have money for a fiberglass or CF replacement the aluminum hoods are much lighter and generally cheap off a junker
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 10:59 PM
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100lbs = .1 sec. .1 sec = 1 car length.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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i've seen some MKIII supra guys take of their bumper supports to reduce weight; those things weigh a ton.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 7th Heaven
un-tar the entire inside and outside, like around the wheelwells. on the inside, get a chisel from home depot or whatever and use a hammer, it will chip right off (or you can heat it up with a dryer but it will be all gooey and ****). from above the gas tank all the way to behind the seats can be removed easily. you'll need to take out the seats and front carpeting to get the rest out.
what do you mean wheelwells? outside the car where the wheel goes? i didnt think there was tar there

and 100lbs = .1 sec. .1 sec = 1 car length. thats a pretty nice estimate at what time does that start taking place
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