No-Pistons-TT

ok im installing my steel oil metering lines and i cant find were there go to. i removed my intake but what side are they on???? im actually an idiot but i really need some help with this i cant figure out were they go to. and one of the stock ones broke off and i cant even put it back on any help would be great.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

uh oh.

They run from the oil metering pump (which is on the front lower passenger side of the block, in front of the turbos) up to the rotor housing oil injectors, which are located underneath all of the sequential crap, all the way down, right on top of the motor (rotor housings).

It's *not* something I would recommend unless you are looking at the bare block, out of the car.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Also, they route around the front on the block, moving from the oil metering pump up and across towards the middle of the block, then up and over the top.

Hyperite

Yeah, this is one of those things that you'll need to remove a LOT more than the intake to replace. And I love how the FSM says "oh, just pull the hose out and look for dripping oil while the car is running to test if it's working". Right.

No-Pistons-TT

hahaha ya i know mazda said it would be easy but u guys are right what a pain in the ***. im not that stupid when it comes to cars but i dont know enough to do what i would have to do to put these in. i finally realized that after going through my fsm. I made a patch hose so it will work and run fine until i can take it in monday to mazda if they think its so easy. thanks for ur help though and yes im an idiot

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

mazda is going to charge you like a grand in labor.....

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Not my engine, but a friends who we were helping out. You can see the SS OMP lines in the three pics. That will give you a decent idea where they route.

No-Pistons-TT

they want 500$ for it which i think is alot.



thanks alot for thoughs pics

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you look at the routing, quite a bit of stuff needs to be removed (or at least loosened and slide out of the way) to route the lines properly. If you go by most Mazda dealership labor costs (around $85/hr), you are at about 5 hrs for the charge which isn't too bad considering what needs to be removed and reinstalled.

rynberg

Wow, you are actually considering letting Mazda R&R your rat's nest? Good luck ever having working sequential again.

Why are you so set on replacing your OMP lines? Considering you don't even know exactly where they are, I doubt you found them to be leaking or anything. Replacing the lines when you are rebuilding the motor is a very good idea, but replacing them for no good reason is a little on the crazy side...

Listen to Rich, he's done a lot of motors (), this is not something you normally do with a fully functioning engine/setup.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

the waterpump housing thermostat housing and alternator take about 15 minutes to remove if you go super slow...that's not really the problem

I think the hardest part is going to be removing the oil squirters. If you have stock sequential and fuel rail you are in for a real headache even after you manage to remove the uim which is hard as well with seq.

Here is how I have mine routed before everything went back on. Took me about 15 minutes while sitting next to the engine with nothing on the engine lol.

And not only is Mazda going to charge you a lot they will probably not do the job like it should be done or that you could do if you took your time.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

You dont need to remove anything on the front of the engine. I had an engine fire recently when I started up my new rebuild and toasted an OMP. Just take apart the top end of the block, and you can go from underneath the car to get the actual OMP, then its a pain in the ***, but you can snake the lines up under the water pump into the clips. Then route them over to the injectors. I wouldnt let Mazda touch my engine bay...Especially the nest.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

If yours are still in one piece don't change them, you'll screw more up than you'll fix.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

With all of that stuff out it makes it much easier and will actually save time in my experience (definitely if you are working with the engine installed). Especially with new stock lines there's no way I can see that you can snake them up there since they are brittle already and made of wimpy plastic....on top of that they are already preformed

Well good luck man don't be afraid of the job its just going to take a while go slow

spekdah

oh the fun I had.....


https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/metered-oil-line-thermostat-fun-409200/

DamonB

Sage advice. Don't fix what ain't broke.