I didn't think to weigh mine before installing it. The whole kit idea is an afterthought because all the Dallas guys said "Hey, I want one". I bet the wood doesn't weigh more than 20 pounds though. When you assemble it a good portion of the weight will be the driver you choose. I can easily haul mine with my amp and driver installed under one arm.

 

I'd like to know the mounting depth, if I can mount an 8" deep sub put me down for one

 

Can you tell me the diameter of the magnet? Since the front is not flat but sloped I need to know that to be absolutely sure yours will fit. I could easily make your one with deeper sides if needed for more clearance, it just may not fit so nicely between the shock towers.

 

Or you could allways offset the sub a bit from the box w/ a ring for the depth needed (just makes your woofer stick out... but if you fiberglassed it smooth it would look sweet!

 

How hard is it to assemble? I don't have access to very many tools and even if I did I wouldn't know how to use them. Is it possibel to get one for 2 10"s?

 

I was thinking 2 10"s myself but could you imagine. Thats some seriosly tight air space! You would have to come up w/ a ported design for 2 (I would think... correct me if I'm wrong). Trust me tho... w/ the correct air space for the woofer and enough clean power to a single 10". You can get some SERIOUS bass, not even to mention in a small FD.

Anyone here know much about porting and sealed? It looks like I'm gonna keep the system out of my truck and build a custom box for my FD that will hold the amps lighted and all. Should be sweet! ON a side note... the touring dosn't come w/ rear pannels so I get to figure that one out!

 

well a sealed box will give you a much deeper sound and the ported one will have a sound more dry. If you want your *** to shake, take the sealed but if you want dry hard bass, get ported.

Check out with the manufacturer, some subs are made for only one of the two (not that they will explode or something but they wil sound like crap)
If you go ported, don't do just a hole in the box, they sell thing to port your box. It looks like a curving tube.

By the way, 0.75 ft square is already pretty small, usually one foot square is more like it. That means that you can not even thing about putting 2 10" in that box, your sound is going to be worst than with only on sub.

Get a double voice coils sub, that should do enough bass to have a good sound. If you want something that will blow your windows, i am affraid you will need something like mine. Putting 2 sub requires the complete use of the trunk or at least, the spare tire space.

puma

 

It is easy to assemble. I don't own woodworking clamps so I glue mine and then put screws in it to hold while the glue dries. After a couple days I take them out and fill the holes. Most you will need is a drill and a jigsaw for your woofer mounting and your speaker connection.

This thing definately is too small for a pair of 10"s. As someone said it is smallish for a single as it is, but most modern subs will have no trouble. I would run at LEAST 80 watts through the driver as the small enclosure will want more power than a bigger one.

 

Puma's comments are what we all generally refer to in the ported vs. sealed debate. I built this enclosure not to impress the neighborhood kids but to have good sound quality. I have a Vifa component set up front, the sub, a four channel amp with xover built in, and a 3 disc Alpine head unit; that's it. Not even rear speakers; I don't like them in this small car. I have a JL Audio 10" with about 120 watts going through it and you can rattle the mirror and shake the car at full blast, I just keep it tuned to fill in nicely with the front. Trust me, it will slam.

This is a sealed enclosure; it will be too small for nearly any ported one.

 

Good thing you mentioned that... I was wondering if anyone was running a good stereo w/ just a pair of components and a bass solution. If I keep my current stereo (will save me a bundle) I'll have a RF Punch 125.2 (440 watts (250 continuous) at 4o) bridged to the 10 and a 160.4 (120 watts (80 continuous) at 4o) bridged to the components. I was wondering if a pair of components would be enough because otherwise I would have to get non touring sides w/ speaker grills or fab somthing up

 

i'm definitely interested, but what's the time frame for payment. it could be another week or two before i'll be able to have funds available. if that won't be a problem, then you can count me as #3.

it's exactly what i've been looking for -- especially for amp placement.

 

Im interested? When would you need the money by? Is there a deadline?

 

I think we would be at least a couple weeks away by the time everybody decides and double checks. I will put you down as number 3. Thanks.

 

No deadline at all. When we think we have everyone who is interested ready, I will collect payments and produce them. Manufacturing and shipping shouldn't take more than a week unless we end up doing dozens.

You make number 4; we need at least 6. I can make as many as we want as long as it is 6 or more. Thanks.

 

count me in

this is the specs of the sub I'm thinking of getting when it's available

http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/W7Broch2001.pdf

I can always put in an extension ring and fiberglass it smooth like az_lynx said, thanks

 

Alright I have 5 who are commited. They are:

Dimcorner
FastX7
R1 POWR
NO AUTHORITY RACING
alaskan7

We need one more. Anyone? Anyone?

 

sealed or ported? Wow I've never heard this before .....

The sub dictates the box ..... the combo determines the sound. I've had and heard SQ ported boxes ..... I've heard SPL monsters from sealed. One thing to do to ge more low end from a ported box is to move the tuning frequency (the PORT!) down. JLs take a real liking to this. I ran the 10W6s in a 3 ft^3 box down to 26 Hz. I promiss you it pulled WAY harder than most sealed boxes and was very very clean.

My point: don't buy into sealed vs ported argument for one second.

My other point ..... ok so direction means nothing? Then why do people use reverse polarity on subs to get the best sound? Gee maybe direction is important .......

 

Spyfish you are exactly right, the enclosure and the driver work together as a system. Many modern subs work admirably in both sealed and ported enclosures, that is why their manufacturers enclose specs for both alignments. I do not intend to encourage debate, I just thought some other guys here would be interested in an enclosure the fits perfectly in the FD's trunk without taking up space.

The final point I will make with you is that once again you are simply confused and wrong. This very well may just be ignorance and so is excusable. If so, than I will explain polarity. Reverse polarity on a speaker means simply wiring it backwards, positive to negative and negative to positive. This puts that particular driver 180 degrees out of phase and is a form of time alignment and therefore can also cancel or reinforce the output at particular frequencies. If we wire two speakers out of phase (reverse polarity on one connection) and face them towards eachother we get no output. Since one waveform is 180 degrees out of phase with the other they sum to zero. Why the hell would we do this? Because if we are talking about the crossover between a sub and a midrange more than likely the sub and the midrange don't occupy the same point in space. At the same time they play in different frequency bands due to the crossover, but overlapping around the center frequency. How much they overlap depends on the slope of the xover. If they are not in the sme point in space their outputs arrive at different times to our ears, and by making one connection out of phase we can alter the combined frequency response between them. One particualr connection generally works for the best. It does nothing for sound quality for that particular driver, but it can smooth the overlap at the crossover frequency to the midranges; thus providing better quality of sound in the system as a whole. Again, changing position does exactly the same thing but inside a car interior we don't have as many options as we do in a room at home.

I don't doubt you have experienced exactly what you have stated above, speakers are very versatile. One reason I enjoy the audio hobby is that there are so many different posible solutions. My real passion is racing my Rex, followed closely by true high fidelity home audio. My latest home project is a fully active bi-amped MTM soeaker system that I designed from scratch; including the circuits and power supplies in its 3 way active crossover and bass eq. If you guys would like to see pics of those I can post them, or just call GR Research. They sponsored the Texas Shootout for home audio last weekend and I placed fourth overall in sound quality with a unanimous first in enclosure design and construction. I certainly agree that the three that finished ahead of me deserved it, but they cost several times what I had in my project.

The fun of the weekend wasn't bringing home trophies though, it was talking with other enthusiests who have built all sorts of things and sharing ideas. Being too opinionated can keep us away from great solutions sometimes, and I plan to make some mods to my current system based on some thoughts I got from others.

If you have anything constructive to offer by all means go ahead. All we are doing here is providing a box of wood; I didn't intend to make this an educational experience. What anybody does with it or thinks about it is certainly an opinion to which they are entitled, but I bet everyone here will be very happy. You being the exception of course. Sorry if my enclosure upsets you, that wasn't my intention.

 

Put me down for one.

What happens if the recommended air space for a sub is less then the amount in the box by a little bit? For example: If the specs on the sub say .66 cu. ft. but the box is .75 cu. ft.

How many more do we need to get this going?

Will the wood come with that carpet stuff on it?

 

I'm might be interested if this is going down sometime soon. My main concern is that I'm not much of a carpenter and I hardly have any tools in my garage so instructions and ease of assembly is a must for me... heh

 

yup , exactly what potatobbq said about instructions and ease of assembly.

 

Would it be possible to construct something like this for a 12'' sub that would fit just as well and not take up too much space??

The thing is I have a single JL 12W6 from my previous car and need some ideas how to fit it in the FD. I guess tire well would be the way to go, but I don't wanna use fiberglass as I'm planning to do the enclosure myself and don't have that much experience with fiberglass.

Also i'd be real intereseted to see some pics of ppls speaker setups up front. Especially how to fit compontents without hacking up the doors. I've got MB Quarts QM218.03CX and I've managed to fit the 6.5" speakers in the doors, but I don't know where to fit the tweeters.

 

It looks like we have enough to go ahead. I will PM everybody who said they were interested to double check and get shipping info so I can give everyone a final price.

The difference in volume you stated above isn't off by much, it would probably be alright. The easiest solution I have found to make volume smaller is just to place a block of styrfoam inside the enclosure. Styro is cheap and lets you experiment.

This is just going to be raw MDF, no covering. You will have to glue it together yourself, but it isn't hard. I think everyone here can manage.

 

This will go down as soon as everyone is ready. It should take me no more than a week to get them out the door once I have everyone's address and payment. I will enclose instructions, and be available for questions. Let me know if you're interested. Thanks.

 

Sorry, but a 12" won't fit in my enclosure. There is only about 10" of space between the trunk floor and the strut brace after you remove the padding under the carpet.

I have a Vifa component set and mounted the midranges in their stock locations in the doors. I mounted the tweeters using surface mounts and bolted them to the little triangular pieces at the front of the windows. Works well for me and again looks very clean.