krzemienr

SO here's the deal. I Have researched the third gen rx7 for about 4 monts now and I'm getting ready buy one with in a month. I have driven a handful already (prices ranging from 12000 to 28000) and I have settled on one in particualr, however not having any personal experience with the engine, I just want some opinions on the car i'm talking about here's some infor about it:

Engine, it's a jap motor (‘95 JDM) less than 38k: good compression on
all sides of rotors.
w/ jacob electronic ignition box, msd wires, ngk racing plugs 9 and
11.5 heat range.
Walbro fuel pump 255 lph
Injectors are stock, that's why the owner doesn't drive it. He has a rotary
extreme fuel rail for it.
The fly wheel is act street light, also new w/ act 6 puck clutch
Diff oil is also changed.
Brakes, stainless steel lines on all 4 corner, semi metallic pads.
Suspension, Eibach springs w/ Torkico shocks.
Oil cooler, there only one, but it's a Morosso 11"x9"x1.5" huge w/ all
-10
stainless lines and A.N. fittings.
The V-mount set up is: the radiator is a Koyo, the inter cooler is an
Evo 8
w/ Precision turbo elbows and tubing. There is no ems in the car right
now, All of this was installed less than a year ago. The
miles on the new set up is about 400-500 miles, 2 tanks full of gas, that's it.
Because of the v-mount set up there's no a/c or power steering. the car
is so light, it feels better w/out it.
The wheels are Volk Gtn's front, 18x9. back, 18x10. tires are Yokayama
es 100. front, 235 40 18, back 275 35 18. The wheels and tires have also
400-500 miles on them.
Never dynoed, the set up is new and never put a ems on it yet. It
should be
easy to get 400 hp at the wheels. Around 350 hp on pump gas, for sure.
The
turbo kit is a Greddy 20g w/ 50 mm racing gate, is also 400-500 miles
and
was rebuilt by Precision.
After market-- front end, fiberglass hood (reverse inlet) w/ hood pins,
Re
Amia carbon fiber wing. Custom paint job.

This was the infor given to me by the owner. I'm not sure what kind of problems I will have without purchasing the ems soon, and which one would bethe best, I also wanted to know if I could get away with simply putting in aftermarket injectors and skipping the ems for a while. Let me know what you think. Thanks in advance. See the attachments for pics

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Get an Apexi Power FC. It's what a vast majority of FDs are running on now. You didn't mention an AST, but I would reccomend you get an aftermarket one because the stock ones are prone to fail after years of use.

Welcome to the forum.

krzemienr

Now is the Apexi better than the Aem?

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

^^^ I agree. Fuel is one of the MUST dos for the car (well any turbo-ed car). 1300 secondary (or 850s all around)+PFC.

1300ccs - 175 x 2 = 350
PFC +Comm = 949 from RX7store.net (comes with a base tune from them based on your setup).

So say, 1299 for the fuel upgrades. OF course you can probably pick some of these items up cheaper if you keep an eye out in the classifieds.

ALSO, it appears that a 3 bar map is also a must have if you're gonna be pushing over stock boost levels. There's a thread a few down called "I think I blew my egine tonight." Give it a look over.


What's the asking price for the car? Whatever it is, I'd knock 1500 off my offer -- unless it was a steal.

VegasFD

The PFC is a more user-friendly ECU than the AEM, and still has plenty of features/tunability. But I don't understand how all that work was done on the car, but no aftermarket ECU was put in. Just doesn't add up to me...

krzemienr

He's askin $14,500 with 80,000 miles on body

VegasFD

Sounds like a pretty reasonable deal. You're sure it has a CLEAN title? I'd say buy it. But get the ECU ASAP and get it tuned. I could also do without the wing.

krzemienr

so I can hold off on buyin new injectors and get the EMS for now....

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

The PFC is a must. Injectors will only help. I'd say the pfc is a 10 and the injectors are a 7-8. You really need to check on the cooling parts of the car also. As White87FC mentioned, the AST should be upgraded.

The two killers of the rotary are heat (too much) and fuel (lack of).

GL with your purchase.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Yup. Something is wrong here. A PFC is only $600-$700, which is noise relative to the money spent on the other parts. I'd be suspicious..

krzemienr

I e-mailed the seller and I'll post iot as soon as i can, but I found on this website that's its better to delete the AST then to replace it :www.robrobinette.com/reliabiltiy.htm

jeremyb

^^^^ ditto..... try to do some research on the owner if you can dude. Ask him if a shop did the work and if so get the name and call the shop. From what the owner said all this work was done within a year... if you call the shop and ask them if they remember working on it, they should remember since its recent... especially for all the work stated. Ask them if the car was in good condition prior to all that work blah blah... you know... "research-ish questions" lol. But if he says a friend or himself did it... my suggestion is to find someone around your area that knows FDs and take them along with you to look at it.

Jeremy

CantGoStraight

I wasn't aware the factory ECU would run the aftermarket injectors ? ? ? ?
Seems to me this is done at the same time, but the way you want to do it the ECU should come first with a dyno tune on a 3bar map. It would be better and cheaper in the long run if you could do the injectors, ECU and tune at the same time as you'll just have to do a retune once you install the nw\ew injectors.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Personally, I wouldn't buy a car without driving it, unless I already knew (from experience) how to completely tear it apart and fix it.


If it's been a while since the motor has run, there could be other problems that he doesn't know about (or worse yet, doesn't want to tell you about).


At the very least, have a compression check performed. The only thing required is a stock ECU and a working starter and oil injection system; you'll be disabling the fuel injectors and ignition to perform the compression check. If he can't do that, assume the engine needs to be replaced as well, and adjust the price accordingly. The ad says the car was run with that setup for 500 miles, which is plenty of time to blow an engine, especially if he tried to 'break it in with the stock ECU,' which is a horrible idea.


There's more to building a car than buying nice parts for it. Installing them properly and making everything work well together gets more and more difficult the more you modify things. It's very possible that the owner bit off more than he could chew, and is trying to recoup his losses.

-s-

ddkkww888

Remember Seller needs to provide Buyer
that vehicle passes a SMOG TEST.

Hope all works out for you

krzemienr

SO i finally got a chnce to drive the car today. It started with no problem and idled at 800, the interior isn't too beat up, i'll attach some pics, alright so this is gonna sound stupid but that is supposed to go where the big holes are at in the dash other than a radio? the other RX-7 i drove had guages there, so i don't know what originally is supposed to go there... and the story with ems is this i guess.... the lady thats sellin the car is widowed and this was her husband's car that he worked on be4 he pasted, he never finished it, so now it sits (I guess he died recently) again let me know what you think. Thanks

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

There are supposed to be two holes there. In some models, the radio & tape player go in the upper compartment, and the CD player in the bottom compartment. In other models, there is a tape player up top and a storage pocket in the lower compartment.

If the car starts and idles, then it sounds like the engine is in OK shape. It's still up to you if you're willing to finish someone else's project. Don't expect to just buy this car and take it to the races a month later. Be sure you buy an ECU and a wideband O2 system, and have it tuned by a professional. Steve Kan of Gotham Racing travels and tunes cars, you might want to look him up.

-s-

krzemienr

I was also just informed that the AST is also stock, which would need to be replaced. Anyways with all of this said (thnks so much for your input it helped a lot), is $14,500 still reasonable or could I get it down any cheaper. Like I said i know cars, except these as I only reaserched them with no hands on experience. Thanks again

PhDMDRX7

If you don't want this for $14.5 give me her number and I'll buy it! Buy the car, we all know they are money pits, if you don't then you better think again. I think this sounds like a very resonable deal.

LUPE

Is that car from St.Louis ?